FLASHPOINT – RoveLight RL-600 – Hands on Review

RoveLight_300

 

The new Adorama RoveLight RL-600, fully integrated Lithium-ion powered strobes are now available, and Adorama have very kindly expressed shipped a sample unit over while their great introductory promotion (was) running.

The RoveLight RL-600 are completely cordless 600WS units. With large 400+ shot capacity Lithium-ion battery module, and 2.4GHz radio receiver, all neatly built inside. Making the RoveLight very portable, powerful, and super fast to set up.

Flashpoint RoveLights are based on the Jinbei HD 600 flashes. Though as it turns out the Rovelights are actually based on the MK II model HD 600 II, which have a very impressive High Shutter Speed feature, which operates at any power level from Full power down to 1/16th.

(Please note – This High Shutter Speed mode uses a form of Long Duration Sync to provide the higher shutter speeds).

The RoveLights pack some serious power, and the High Shutter Speed mode is a very usable feature. These lights really are something new and a bit special with this new dual mode High Shutter Speed function. The Rovelights are going to be a serious weapon for wedding etc photographers who want to work fast without ND filters.

 

 

UPDATE – 14th October 2015 – Adorama have opened a transmitter exchange program for owners of the original RoveLights supplied with original version one transmitter units. 

The V2 version transmitters have added a power amplifier, increasing the transmitters power from 0-3 dBm, to around 14 dBm in the new units.

This has reportedly increased the transmitters range considerably, and Flashpoint are hoping this will improved overall consistency and reliability of the transmitters in general. 

 

 

FP RoveLight

 

The heart of the RL-600 is the large removable 14.8v 6600mAh Lithoum-ion battery, which simply slides into the rear of the flash. Providing 400+ full power shots with one charge. And all fitting neatly inside the flash body.

The battery modules are also available separately, and can be recharged outside the flash while another battery is in use.

 

FP RoveLight

 

The 600WS RoveLights features an LCD display, with full power level control from 1/1 to 1/128, in 1/3rd Stops.  

Power levels can be changed directly on the flash interface or through the 2.4GHz radio transmitter provided, and receiver built inside the flash.

The RL-600 are also IGBT flashes (in their regular mode), meaning they have very fast motion freezing flash durations at lower power levels, down to 1/15000th of a second.

S1 and S2 optic slave modes are provided, and recycle times are quite fast. There is a fast recycle mode option bringing full power recycle down from 4.5 seconds to 3.5 seconds (0.3 seconds at minimum power). At half power recycle is a very reasonable 1.5 seconds.

A Multi / Stroboscopic Mode is also provided.

 

FP RoveLight

 

Key Features -
  • 600 WS – Guide Number 61M @ 100 ISO
  • Built-in (Swappable) 14.8v 6600mAh Lithoum-ion Battery Modules
  • 400+ Full Power Shots Per Battery Charge
  • Built in 2.4GHz Radio Receiver with Remote Power Control
  • 22 Level Power Control – 1/1 to 1/128, in 1/3rd Stops
  • High Shutter Speed Mode – 1/1 to 1/16th Power (Requires HSS Trigger for Pre-sync Signal)
  • Selectable Recycle Speed with 0.3 – 3.5 Second (Fast) and 0.3 – 4.5 Second (Slow)
  • Audible and Ready LED Indicator
  • Trigger Single Frame, Stroboscopic or Flash Delay
  • s1 and s2 Optic Slave Modes
  • Built in 7W LED Modeling Lamp with Auto Off Timer Option
  • Flashpoint or Bowen’s Mount for Reflectors and Light Modifiers

 

From may initial testing the RoveLight appears to perform very well. Its very powerful, the recycle times are fast for a battery powered flash with this power, and power levels and consistency between shots is very accurate. Color consistency through the power levels appears quite good as well.

 

LED Modelling Light

 

The LED modeling light is 5 or 7 watts (specs differ), which appears to equates to around  a 75 watt incandescent globe. So its not particularly powerful, though still certainly useful at times. The LED can be set to auto-off in 60 seconds to save battery power, or stay on as long as the strobe is awake.

I don’t know if leaving the LED on for log periods would eventually burn it out, and I don’t really want to find out. The modelling light can also be turned on and off remotely from the supplied TRS remote / transmitter unit.

 

FP RoveLight

 

Accessory Mounts

 

RoveLights are available with 2 accessory mount options. The RL-600B shown here provides a standard Bowens S-type mount, while the standard RL-600 version have the Flashpoint accessory mount.

The Bowen’s mount is quite loose on the speedring inserts, so the supplied reflector and other smaller accessories can rattle around a bit. Though they definitely can’t fall out, and I actually found the loose mount to be an advantage for mounting softboxes etc quickly.

I also found the small reflector around the flash tube to be a big advantage when mounting and removing accessories quickly as well, as that acts as a bit of a shield, so you don’t have to be so careful around the fragile flash tube.

 

FP RoveLight

 

So softboxes etc mount up quickly and easily. The Phottix Luna 70cm shown below are a great combination with the RoveLight, as they snap oven quickly, and they are also nice and shallow so they doesn’t take up a lot of space.

Adorama also have a large range of their own well priced Glow and Flashpoint Softboxes available.

 

FP RoveLight

 

The RoveLight swivel mount is very sturdy and will easily support larger modifiers. The swivel handle is a little small, though it does the job ok. The aim here is to be small and portable.

Adorama have upped the spec on this swivel over the Jinbei version of this light. Which is a good advantage, as Jinbei are using the swivel really designed for a small speedlight. The downside is that there is no direct handle option available like the Jinbei units provide. It would be much more sturdy to place your own handle into the Rovelight swivel though.

The swivel is attached with two regular screws though, so it could easily be changed as well if you really wanted to. Though I think the RoveLight is solid and great as it is.

One thing to be aware of here though is the umbrella mounting hole appears to be designed for smaller 7mm, or a very neat fit on 8mm, diameter umbrella shafts only (where the original Jinbei mount allows for up to 10mm umbrella shafts).

 

FP RoveLight

 

Lithium-ion Battery

 

Th RoveLight has a large removable 14.8v 6600mAh Lithoum-ion battery, which simply slides into the rear of the flash. Providing 400+ full power shots with one charge.

As far as I understand this is Lithium Polymer, or LiPo, which are the long life Lithiun-ion batteries.

The battery itself is only about the size of a speedlite (folded), and weighs 640 grams. It slides in and out of the flash very quickly and easily. One small concern is that the clip on the battery looks like it could be broken easily, though this appears to be designed as replaceable part.

The RoveLight can not be used while connected to the charger, which is normal for most lights like this. Though a second battery could be charging outside the flash, while another is being used.

 

FP RoveLight

 

Also a small but very welcome detail is simply a manufacture date stamp on the battery.

Dramas with bad batches of the Godox Lithium-ion batteries have really highlighted how important some form of identification like this can be.

And of course you know exactly how old the battery actually is.

 

FP RoveLight

 

TRS Radio Transmitter

 

The RoveLights come with the simple TRS 2.4GHz radio transmitter unit, which provide pretty solid range, stated as around 80m. And a fairly basic power level adjustment.

The radio receiver is conveniently built inside the RoveLight, so there are no external receivers or cords needed (though they can also be used via the provided 3.5mm sync port).

I’ve had no issues with random fires or misfires, and the range appears quite good as most 2.4GHz triggers provide.

UPDATE / NOTE – The TRS transmitter actually has a small Reset Button inside the battery compartment (requires a pen tip etc to push). If you’re having any issues with the transmitter not turning on, or acting unusually etc, pressing this Reset Button may help to rectify those.

Over time the TRS transmitters have also proven to be less than reliable for many people, and other radio triggers are often used to fire the flash reliably, while the TRS is used separately just for remote power adjustments on the flash.

 

TRS Remote

 

Remote Power Control

Remote power control is still one area the Jinbei units could certainly do with an update. Though at least there is some remote power control ability already enabled.

Power levels are simply bumped up and down in 1/3rd stops from the transmitter. You are be relying on the sound beep from the flash, or actually seeing the flash display to be certain of the current power level set.

As you reach full or minimum power there are a number of beeps to let you know. So although basic, its really a fairly easy and very usable remote power adjustment.

There is also a modeling light switch and test fire button provided on the transmitter.

 

FP RoveLight

 

Adjusting Multiple Lights

The TRS transmitters at this stage are really only designed to adjust the remote power levels of one flash. Or possibly a number of flashes all at once (while retaining the power level ratios already set directly on the flashes). As there are no groups provided to adjust flashes independently.

Though lucky for those of us who like to squeeze out as much functionality as possible, there is actually a “catch all channel” (channel 15) provided, which fires all channels together. This means that the channels can actually be used as a work around in place of groups to adjust lights individually.

Though because the TRS transmitter unit uses small dip switches to change the channels, its simply not going to be practical to be changing channels with those tiny dip switches all the time.

So I think the practical way around this is to actually use one transmitter unit dedicated to each light, and set to a corresponding channel. And then an extra transmitter unit mounted on the camera hotshoe, and set to the “catch all channel” to fire all the flashes.

So there is a hand held remote unit, with a transmitter dedicated to each flash. They could be mounted together on a small cold shoe track or DIY base.

 

TRS Remote

 

This may look like a pretty elaborate work around, though it would only require one extra transmitter over those supplied with each flash unit.

And the functionality would actually be pretty convenient in some ways, as you could easily test fire each light separately for meter readings, because there is a dedicated test fire for button for each flash.

And the transmitter on the camera can then be used to test fire all lights together, and also very conveniently adjust all lights power levels at once (retaining ratios set) to compensate for ISO and aperture changes on the camera. This is a very convenient feature many other current radio triggers lack.

Unfortunately one small catch is that the transmitter units go into a sleep mode every 3.3 minutes of no use. Though you very quickly get used to the fact that you will need to hold the ON button for a few seconds before making power changes on the hand held remote.

So this is all a bit of a workaround, though still much better than running back and forth to flashes all the time to make small power adjustments.

Jinbei do also use the TRS remote for quite a number of their current flashes. So hopefully there is some possibility this transmitter may at the least be updated to one with a more convenient channel selection. Jinbei have asked about good transmitter interface options.

 

High Shutter Speed Mode

 

If a powerful fully cordless flash wasn’t enough, the RoveLights appear to have something pretty unusual and special with the new High Shutter Speed Mode feature.

The RoveLights as stated by Jinbie are Dual Mode flashes. And this appears to be switching from an IGBT flash to a regular voltage controlled flash in the High Shutter Speed Mode, which increases the flash durations at all power levels down to 1/16.

A long flash duration simply acts like a constant light source, at least for the short time the camera shutter is open. This in turn allows any shutter speed up to 1/8000th of a second to be used, just like using available light.

I have termed this method of achieving high shutter speeds Long Duration Sync, and commonly known manufactures terms for variations of this are HyperSync, SuperSync and Over Drive Sync.

And there is a graphic illustration and explanation of how regular HSS and Long Duration Sync function in the ODS (Over Drive Sync) post here.

A significant advantage of this method over the flash pulsing method which the recent Godox Witstro units use, is that there is no extra limit to the number of flashes allowed in HSS mode (the Witstro allow just 10 shots at full power).

And you don’t really need to worry about running to the flash and turning the High Shutter Speed mode on and off all the time either. As there is only a small loss in power (0.2 stops) in the High Shutter Speed mode. At full power there is no loss.

So this High Shutter Speed mode is significantly more practical (and powerful) than the Witstro units. The trade off though is slightly more light gradient across the image frame.

To set the High Shutter Speed mode on, hold the top right SET and EYEBALL button, and the High Shutter Speed symbol will appear at the top right of the LCD as shown (below the battery indicator).

 

FP RoveLight

 

Triggering High Shutter Speed Mode

For this High Shutter Speed mode to function though, an early fire signal, or “pre-sync” signal, is also needed. And that needs to be provided by a High Speed Sync enabled transmitter on the camera hotshoe.

Most TTL triggers should work reasonably well with this, though the popular YongNuo YN-622 offer one of the simplest and inexpensive options for Canon and Nikon cameras.

UPDATE - If the TRS transmitter is proving unreliable it may be best to just use other radio triggers like the YN-622C to actually trigger the flash, and the TRS can be hand held separately to provide remote manual power adjustments on the Rovelight.

A receiver is needed for every RoveLight used with this method though, and they are connected to the flash via PC sync cord (with a 3.5mm mini phone socket at the flash end).

 

FP RoveLight

 

Please Note – The TRS transmitter unit is the only unit which can remotely adjust the power levels of the RoveLights. No other radio triggers can do this.

So regardless of the method used to fire the flashes (with or without High Shutter Speed Mode) the TRS transmitter will always be needed (possibly in hand) if you want to remotely control the RoveLight power levels.

 

The Alternative triggering methods below allow the Rovelights internal radio receiver to be uses, so that no extra receiver units need to be attached to each strobe.

The disadvantage may be reduced reliability due to the TRS transmitter being relied upon to fire the flashes (with many users reporting their TRS are less than reliable for this).

 

The first trick here is to simply attach the regular FlashPoint TRS transmitter to the TTL transmitter on the camera. That way there are no extra TTL receivers required on the RoveLights themselves, so they can remain clean and wireless.

 

FP RoveLight

 

For Canon, the YN-622C unfortunately require an extra hotshoe to PC sync cord, as the PC sync port on the side of the YN-622C transmitter is where the pre-sync signal is provided.

The hotshoe and TRS transmitter are actually just sitting on top of the YN-622C hotshoe here, just as somewhere convenient to mount them. The only electrical connection is through the PC sync cord, not actually the YN-622C hotshoe.

This may not look particularly attractive, though the High Shutter Speed functionality is pretty amazing, and well worthwhile looking a little strange on the camera.

 

FP RoveLight

 

Nikon owners have it bit easier though, as the TRS transmitter can mount straight on top of the YN-622N hotshoe. No PC sync cord is needed with the YN-622N.

UPDATE - There appears to be some issues between the Nikon YN-622N and TRS transmitter when mounting as shown below. For some reason the TRS transmitter may not consistently fire in this configuration.

So with Nikon it may be necessary to also attach a YN-622N as receiver to the RoveLight itself. And only mount the YN-622N or YN-622N-TX on the camera hotshoe. The TRS transmitter then held in hand then to control the RoveLight power levels.

 

FP RoveLight

 

The recent YongNuo YN-622C-TX and YN-622N-TX are also very popular TTL transmitter units now. Though unfortunately they do not have any hotshoe on top, and they do not provide a PC sync out signal. So there is no way to access the pre-sync signal directly from the transmitter unit itself.

Another way to access the Pre-Sync signal then, is to attach the TRS transmitter to a YN-622C receiver instead. The TRS then relays the fire signal on to the RoveLights, and still not extra receivers are needed attached to the flash units.

The YN-622C receiver and TRS transmitter do not need to be mounted near the camera, they could be anywhere between the camera and lights. Though if you only have one TRS unit it would need to be close by to use the remote power level adjustment for the RoveLights.

This is also a method that could be used with most other TTL triggers which do not have a hotshoe or PC Sync out port on the transmitter.

 

FP RoveLight

 

 

High Shutter Speed Mode Results

Below is a direct comparison, in and out of High Shutter Speed mode, with the RoveLight and the Godox RS600P, and Witsro AD360. Which are 2 of the other very popular portable flash units at the moment. The AD360 also having a purpose designed High Speed Sync mode.

Surprisingly outside of High Shutter Speed mode the RoveLight is around one full stop more powerful than the RS600P when using the standard reflectors, and about 0.8 stops in a softbox as shown below (Phottix Luna 70cm used).

The RoveLight loses a couple of tenths at 1/250th shutter speed due to the longer flash duration at full power, though full frame cameras with 1/200th x-sync would not be affected by that small loss anyway.

The AD360 being a 300WS flash (as opposed to 600WS for the other two units) is another stop lower than the RS600P. So a quite significant 1.8 stops below the RoveLight compared in the softbox.

 

HSS Comparison

 

So as the image above shows, the RoveLight provides significantly more light, in and out of the High Shutter Speed mode. And that’s a major bonus considering they are also much more convenient to use the High Shutter Speed mode compared to the AD360.

The Godox RS600P is a little disappointing at full power using the Long Duration Sync method, though it doesn’t technically have any HSS mode, so that is no fault of the flash. We are just relying on the existing long flash durations already available. Being a voltage controlled flash the gradient does get more even at lower power levels. The RS600P can’t anywhere near match the RoveLight at any power level, though at least they are usable for Long Duration Sync (which is very handy when mixing with the AD360 etc)

The AD360, using a flash pulsing method to produce a longer flash duration, provides a more even frame (or less gradient), than the RoveLight. Though the big trade off for that is a 10 shot limit, and needing to turn the HSS mode on and off directly on the flash. So at full power its often better to leave the HSS mode off with AD360 and just use the regular long flash duration instead (which has more gradient).

The Gradient in the RoveLight High Shutter Speed frame above may look significant, though this is generally hardly noticeable in a regular image mixing ambient light and flash in the frame. I have to use a plain white wall here to see what is actually happening.

If it helps to understand the loss or gain with High Shutter Speed mode here, if using an ND filter instead of High Shutter Speed mode to open the camera aperture, the left frames above would look exactly the same as the right. So all flashes are losing a little light over an ND filter.

The advantage is the speed and convenience of not having to use the ND filter. Or not having to close the aperture as far if trying to underexpose the ambient light.

So with the power the RoveLight provides, this is really a very significant and usable High Shutter Speed feature, if you’re interested in the High Shutter Speed method.

TIP – HSS is commonly used to achieve wider apertures for narrow depth of field in bright ambient light. ND filters on the camera lens are the other common method of achieving this. Though they do not provide any advantage for freezing motion as higher shutter speeds can do.

For more information on how HSS and Long Duration Sync methods work please see this post.

 

Form Factor

 

This was always going to be swings and roundabouts. The RoveLight are an all in one completely cordless unit. The big advantage of that is the speed of having everything in one unit always ready to go. And a nice reduction in size, and more significantly a reduction in gear clutter.

At around 2.8kg the RoveLights are about 200 grams lighter than the ($2000) Profoto B1 for example. Though they are still a significant chunk of weight to either be hand holding over your head for any length of time, or to prop up high on anything but a decent solid light stand, let alone a boom arm.

It is still impressive the amount of light output and battery power the RoveLight provide in the reasonably compact package they are though. As an interesting comparison, the soon to be released YongNuo YN300W lights are larger, considerably heavier, without any internal battery, and still only half the power of the smaller RoveLight.

(That’s not to say the YN300W ar not impressive studio lights).

 

FP RoveLight

 

Compared with the popular Godox RS600P, the RS600P battery pack is over 3kg alone. The whole package with case, flash head, and cord, is closer to 4.8kg. Compared to just 2.8kg for the RoveLight (which is surprisingly putting out significantly more light as well).

The RS600P, and lights like the Elinchrom Quadra, definitely still have their advantages though too. The RS600P head weighs next to nothing (as there’s nothing inside it), so its much easier to hand hold up high for any period of time (the battery pack is no stress slung over your shoulder).

Where the RoveLight almost definitely needs a support pole for holding up high for anything more than a short time. So depending on what your regular use would be things like that may need to be factored in.

 

FP RoveLight

 

Mounting the Rovelight on a light stand you would be wasting your time with anything but a decent solid medium stand. (That’s not to say you can’t get relatively inexpensive and solid stands as shown).

The RS600P are heavier to move around (4.8kg vs 2.8kg), though all the weight is at the bottom if the stand, so you can lift the stand with one hand and there is no chance of it overbalancing. Where the RoveLight is easy to lift, though you do need to be conscious of the weight up top when moving it around.

And then there is the fact that the RS600P has built in ballast with the battery back at the base of the stand. Even outdoors this is often enough to weigh the stand down fairly securely, where the RoveLight is definitely going to need extra sandbags at times.

 

FP RoveLight

 

So there are advantages and disadvantages to either system, and they are both likely to suit some people better than others.

Ideally even wireless lights like the RoveLight would eventually be designed with the option of a remote corded head when needed, so you have both options then, and the best of both worlds.

And another great option would simply be a 300WS version of the RoveLight. With the power this light has, half of that would still be fantastic, and at around 60% of the size and weight.

 

Carry Case

 

Like many portable strobe units, the RoveLights come with a nice padded case and shoulder strap. This is not just a soft fabric case, as there is still a rigid frame inside.

The RoveLight fits in fully assembled and ready to go. And there is room for extra battery modules and charger etc.

 

FlashPoint RoveLight

 

As nice as the case is, one small catch is that the strap holds the case on the wider side. That way the zipper opening flap remains at the top where there is no weight on it.

For the same reason there is no regular handle on either side of the case. So the only handle option is the shoulder strap , supporting the case on its its wider side.

Its still nice to have decent case provided though.

FlashPoint RoveLight

 

UPDATE – Flashpoint Mount -

 

A number of people who have purchased the Flashpoint mount version of the RoveLight have pointed out a few anomalies over the original Bowen’s mount version.

Adorama’s current Flashpoint mount appears to be very similar to a mount used by the German strobe manufacturer Multitblitz, in particular the Multiblitz V-Type mount.

UPDATE – We have one report of a person trying a Multiblitz V-Type speedring on the Flashpoint mount RoveLight and it did not fit. So its still unclear if Multiblitz are actually compatible or not.

When adapting this mount to the RoveLight though, for some reason the small concave reflector around the flash tube was not retained from the original Bowens mount version, and a flat reflector plate used instead. This can be a little bit of a negative, as the concave reflector helps to protect the flash tube when mounting modifiers etc.

Rovelight RL600

 

Another issue at the time of writing this though, is that the Flashpoint mount light does not come with the smaller 5″ (actually 5 1/8″) compact reflector and diffuser cap, which the original Bowen’s mount light comes with standard.

Adorama have been providing a free 8″ Flashpoint reflector instead. The advantage of which is that there are 8″ grid sets available to fit this reflector.

The disadvantage though is that umbrella mounting hole cut into the 8″ reflector does not actually line up with the umbrella mount on the RoveLights base.

EDIT / UPDATE – Some buyers have reported the umbrella shaft is now lining up correctly with the hole in recent 8″ reflectors provided with the RL600.

And also the larger 8″ reflector is not as compact, and will not fit in the RoveLight case, all set up and ready to go like the compact reflector allows. The compact reflector also comes standard with a nice diffuser cover, which the 8″ reflector does not come with.

UPDATE – Flashpoint mount Rovelight owners have been reporting a couple more issues –

The Flashpoint mount has no locking pin or mechanism like the Bowens mount does, and the spring clips are not very strong, so heavier modifiers can twist and actually fall right out of the mount.

Also the Flashpoint Speedring which can be used to fit into other standard softboxes so that they can be mounted on the FlashPoint mount Rovelight, are reportedly a slightly larger diameter than other regular speedrings. This effectively makes the softbox rods longer, putting stress and extra tension on the softbox fabric.

 

Technical Specs -

 

FP RoveLight Specs

 

 

FP RoveLight

 

Overall the FlashPoint RoveLights are very impressive and well priced all in one portable flashes.

And with the support from Adorama, they should really provide a lot of bang for buck.

 

UPDATE – 14th July 2015 – PLEASE NOTE – Jinbei have released an updated version of the HD 600 II, now called the HD 600 V.

And the HD 600 V have more sophisticated radio transceiver modules built inside, which are unfortunately no longer compatible with the original HD 600 II and Flashpoint RoveLight radio system and transmitter units.

At this time the HD 600V are just supplied with a similar version of the original TRS transmitter unit labelled the TRS-V. Though the radio modules built inside the HD 600 V flash units are designed to accommodate more sophisticated transmitter units which should eventually come from Jinbei.

Flashpoint are still waiting on details of what new transmitter options may be possible with the RoveLights (nothing is guaranteed though).

 

 

PRICE AND AVAILABILITY -

 

The FlashPoint RoveLights are available now from Adorama –

RL-600B (Bowen’s Mount) – $399.95

RL-600 (FlashPoint Mount) – $599.95

Replacement Battery Module – $150.00

 

RoveLight – Original User Manual PDF

RoveLight – Overview

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264 Comments
  1. The wizard of Oz 3 years ago

    So you could simplify the HSS process with a long PC cable directly to the flash unit right? I know that wireless is the point here but with a small percentage of my work in the HSS zone it would probably be just as easy to pull out the cable for a beat out the sun shot. Great review and writeup BTW, thanks!

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 3 years ago

      Hi Wizard,

      Thanks for that. Regarding the Sync cord, I don’t think so really. You still need the YN-622C on the camera hotshoe (assuming you’re using Canon) to plug the PC sync cord into. So I’m not sure if there’s much point dragging a long sync cord out when you can just connect the TRS transmitter instead?

      The TTL transmitter of some sort is needed on the camera to get the early pre-sync signal, otherwise most of the frame will still be black (or no flash in it).

      • The wizard of Oz 3 years ago

        Great, thanks. The 622s are super cheap so NBD. I can’t wait to get my hands on one of these.

  2. Jeff 3 years ago

    Is the battery the same as the Jinbei 240v inverter? (EN 350) It looks similar.
    Great hands on!

    Thanks

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 3 years ago

      Hi Jeff,

      The EN-350 battery looks to be in the same format, though its about twice as long, and obviously larger capacity then.

  3. Takura 3 years ago

    Thanks, great review.

    Given that HSS is done using a combination of triggers, is there any possibility that HSS world work with Sony cameras by mounting the TRS transmitter on a HSS-supporting Sony-compatible wireless trigger like the Odin or the Pixel King?

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 3 years ago

      Hi Takura,

      Thanks, yes the Sony version King and Odin should work for HSS as well.

  4. Ian Cheung 3 years ago

    Looks really great except for the lack of groups. I have a preference for the RS600P form factor though I am wary of the Godox battery problems. Is that the reason you haven’t reviewed it yet?

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 3 years ago

      Hi Ian,

      No I just haven’t had a chance yet. I’ve still got quite a lot of gear here to work through at the moment.

      I don’t think the RS600P have had any issues with the actual batteries (like the VB18 and PB960), as the RS600P use the LiPo batteries.

      There have apparently been a few E1 error issues still with the packs though. I’m only aware of one case of this from the EachShot orders so far though.

      • Ian Cheung 3 years ago

        Looking forward to seeing the review in the future. Keep up the good work! And fingers crossed on the LiPo batteries.

        • Author
          Flash Havoc 3 years ago

          Hi Ian,

          I know its not a review, but the RS600P are pretty straight forward. They work as advertised, and the only real things to be aware of are the power output and moderate HSS ability mentioned here. Otherwise if you’re familiar with the FT-16 transmitter and other Godox lights, they combine together very nicely together.

          I don’t think the LiPo batteries have been any issue. Its just the E1 error with some packs. It looks like Godox are at the stage they will just replace the control unit (top part of the pack) quickly now without any hassles if there are issues.

          • Ian Cheung 3 years ago

            Thanks Elvis,

            After the V850s, I guess reliability is one criteria that is near the top of the list I’m interested in. The other things are how well the heads balance on a boom, and what the prospects of a transmitter more in line with the Cactus V6. I’d even settle for a FT-16 v2 that easily lets us toggle off groups instead of dialling it down to 0 and then remembering the level to dial it back up to.

            BTW I haven’t heard of the E1 error, could you tell me more?

            • Author
              Flash Havoc 3 years ago

              Hi Ian,

              This is the E1 error in the Godox RS600P. Apparently there were a number of cases of this with the previous ES units, though it was meant to be fixed with the RS units. This was the only case I know of from the Eachshot orders though. As far as I understand it happens pretty quickly as shown if its going to. And it would mean exchanging the top part of the pack would be necessary.

              The heads have next to no weight in them at all, so a boom is fine. Though the thumbscrew and swivel handle (you’re familiar with already) could be a bit better, and may possible be updated with later units.

              Hopefully Godox will give some indication at Photokina if the new trigger system is coming soon or not. My guess is its probably not coming yet, as they would need more time to develop a more advanced system. Again my guess is that it will be 2.4GHz, so we won’t see any smaller transmitter upgrades etc until the full new systems comes.

  5. sabawa 3 years ago

    When set in hhs mode at 1to1 power… the guide number is still the same?

    Thanks

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 3 years ago

      Hi sabawa,

      At 1/1 power nothing is really changing at all when you switch to HSS mode.

      • sabawa 3 years ago

        thanks… i just ordered one through your link!

        • Author
          Flash Havoc 3 years ago

          Ok thanks sabawa.

  6. Jay 3 years ago

    This is a far shot, but I got thinking about how to fire and control this remotely so groups would be easily achieved. I wonder if a cactus V6 is capable of remotely adjusting power after you get it to (“learn”). ? Hey its a long shot and not sure if it requires a flash with TTL to learn, but I thought i would throw that out there in case this is an epiphany:)

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 3 years ago

      Hi Jay,

      No unfortunately the V6 would have no way of communicating to the RoveLight through the basic PC sync connection. The V6 do require TTL flashes to adjust their power levels (or the Cactus RF60 flashes).

  7. Cffara@gmail.com 3 years ago

    Elvis,
    Thanks to your review, I pulled the trigger for two of these beauties! One question for you and your readers, does anyone know when I can get bowens speedring insets that will fit Paul Buff collapsible soft boxes?
    Thanks again,
    Charlie

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 3 years ago

      Hi Charlie,

      There appears to be one insert available off the shelf from t-one.co (they are based in Australia and the UK).

      Otherwise a little bit of Googling shows the inserts are 142mm diameter or 5.5″. So its a matter of finding other inserts that size.

      I have these Bowens quick rings, and the similar fixed versions from Redwing etc. And these have 140mm inserts. So they are close but may have a little bit of movement.

      The Bowen’s insert for those are here anyway, so they may be worth a try. Unless someone does know of other 142mm inserts. I don’t think 2mm will matter that much though.

  8. mmmfotografie 3 years ago

    It is very nice that Adorama did ship it express what normally would set you back by 173 dollar and almost eatong away the given discount.

    My biggest problem is that would have just an other remote in my hands next to the one by Godox I own. The Jinbei is bit old fashioned by using dipswitches as selector.

    It time that they make a standard that controls all flashes because it is now becoming like with cameras that is not easy to switch because the invested money in glass.

    In the next village I where I live is the Jinbei importer for our country however it really takes a year before new products arrive and when the arrive there is a new version of the product which kept back of owning an Jinbei products.

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 3 years ago

      Hi mmmfotografie,

      Don’t worry, I live in Australia so I know what its like. I’ve had to pay the minimum $60 shipping a number of times for a small $15 part from B&H etc. $100 was really pretty reasonable for a large package of this size and weight.

      A Canon 600EX-RT speedlite still costs around $800 in the local stores here, so this discount was still a lot of value for money in comparison.

      But this is also why Digital Rev etc have become superstores in HK as well. Maybe there will be some good options from China for these lights eventually as well.

      Yes the radio trigger compatibility is going to be a constantly on going issue. Ideally manufacturers would like you to stay within their system, and eventually it should be most convenient to go that way. Though at least stems like this allow the remote control to function separately to the triggering, so there are ways to combine units to some degree.

      The Jinbei and Godox triggers need updating. They will get there eventually though.

      • mmmfotografie 3 years ago

        I am a bit late with my reply and I was busy with at Nanopole that kept collapsing and returned it finally because the replacement had the same problem. :-(

        I really liked it workings but I have to rely that it works in all situation without having to check every time.

        I assume the 800 for the 600-RT is in AUD and not in USD. It seems that in the USA is no trust in the postal services and they use couriers to send stuff making it very very expensive. I buy a lot in China an have to wait a few weeks but it will arrive but I only use it for stuff that I can easily fixes myself.

        Sending back stuff is not cheap so I get it here and pay more but have the seller close. ;-)

  9. Gil 3 years ago

    Elvis,
    Didn’t know you were in Australia. I’m in Sydney now on vacation. I see my RL 600 just got delivered in North Carolina. Thanks for getting us the discount.

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 3 years ago

      Hi Gil,

      Thanks, no problems, you must have come for our great weather :-) (wettest, and now windiest, August / September in history!!).

  10. Cffara@gmail.com 3 years ago

    I just got my units they look awesome but their twice as heavy as my alien bees wihoutthe battery! Still can’t wait to try them out!

  11. Manny 3 years ago

    One question, not exactly related to the light. I’m rather new to the s type mount. Godox has these 40/60/80cm softboxes with a s-type mount. I was wondering if there was a way to use those with Rovelight. It would be nice if I could get away being able to use both speedlite and strobe with one softbox with a switch of a speedring or something.

    I think you have even reviewed the s-type speedlite bracket Elvis, any insight?

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 3 years ago

      Hi Manny,

      If you have the Bowens mount RoveLight you can use any of the Bowens mount modifiers, and swap them between the speedlite bracket and Rovelight quickly without changing anything.

      The Godox S-type bracket is great. And Phottix make a nice all metal Bowens mount speedlite bracket as well.

  12. Manny 3 years ago

    I didn’t indicate my question clearly, could I some how use this softbox on my bowen mount rovelights:
    http://www.amazon.com/Godox-60x60cm-Softbox-S-type-Bracket/dp/B00MJPCBD8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1409947878&sr=8-1&keywords=godox+60cm+s+type

    as well as the speedlite it supports.

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 3 years ago

      Oops, sorry, I did realise you more than likely meant those softboxes, though I forgot that the S-type speedlite bracket is providing the mounting ring for them.

      Yes you can use a speedring type insert to mount them to the Bowens mount lights. Though I’m not sure where they are available separately. They are 6″ or about 152mm so there should be speedring inserts available in that size around somewhere.

      The insert out of the Phottix Luna is the right size. And although Phottix sell the rings separately for other mounts, they unfortunately don’t sell the Bowens version separately as it already comes with the Luna.

      There is an image here, which shows what a couple of the speedring look like which have 152mm and 153mm diameter. So if you can possibly track those speedrings and inserts down on ebay (and confirm with the seller they are the correct diameter) that should do the trick.

      Somewhere they will be selling them just for the Ezybox purpose though as well. They will all just be speedring inserts though.

  13. Earle 3 years ago

    Hey Mangal: I just tested a 6-inch insert I have on a similar softbix and it works just find (it’s also the same diameter as the insets sold with generic 16-inch beauty dished that have interchangeable mounts.

    • Mangal 3 years ago

      Thanks for looking into this Earle! I think I’ll go ahead and order some of the Godox set.

      • Earle 3 years ago

        My pleasure. I’d just replaced the insert on a beauty dish so it was sitting out. When I saw your post I figured I’d check it both against my S bracket and inside the softbox.

  14. RGomezPhotos 3 years ago

    If only it had a decent triggering system. It has so much going for it. Digital trigger and Group functionality and this thing would sell big…

  15. Cffara@gmail.com 3 years ago

    I think it’s amazing that their basically the same size and weight as the prophoto b1s which cost $1995 and I got two of these for $399 each! Plus HSS, thanks, Elvis!

  16. Charles 3 years ago

    You show a photo of the RL-600B with the YN-622C attached via a PC to 3.5mm sync cable.
    It appears to be better made than what I am finding, and it has the PC screw lock.

    Could you tell me where you are getting those sync cables?

    I just received my RL-600B, and after opening it, I’m thinking I should have ordered two at the Adorama introductory price instead of one. Thanks for the info and the deal!

  17. Mangal 3 years ago

    Hello All,

    Just reporting back. I got my Jinbei TRS receiver today. It works just fine with the Rovelight 600B.

    If anyone wants an extra one, you can pick it up at the photo gadget for less than 20 bucks vs 50 at adorama.

    http://thephotogadget.com/products/jinbei-24ghz-trs-remote-transmitter-jinbei-msn-ii-ecdii-ecl-dpsiii-ef-100

    Also, if you guys have any umbrella softboxes from Alien Bee, then you can pick up the adapter from ebay for a good price, which I just got today as well and worked great! Pretty happy with this setup. 5 minute setup time and ready to shoot! Amazing.

  18. cffara@gmail.com 3 years ago

    Hi Mangal,

    Can you please share the name of the dealer you got the alien bee adapter from on Ebay?

    Thanks,
    Charlie

    • Mangal 3 years ago

      my bad, see link above, and yes I tried it out. Compared to my alien bees, they seem a little warmer, but then again, alien bees don’t have constant temperature

  19. cffara@gmail.com 3 years ago

    I got my two units last week but havent been able to test them out yet. Anyone give them a go? I ‘m curious how they are in the field, color temp wise, etc. Thanks again Elvis, for getting us this smoking deal!

  20. morow 3 years ago

    Can I get it in EU?

  21. Amir 2 years ago

    Any suitable reflectors for using this with shoot-though umbrellas?

  22. Jason Macomber 2 years ago

    Here is a quick review of the light I posted on Youtube, just to give you guys some visual of what we are dealing with.

  23. JohnF 2 years ago

    I have the Jinbei HD-600’s purchased from LinkDelight. Using Pocket Wizard TT1 or TT5, I can get sync speeds of 1/1250 with little clipping on a D4. Just sayin’…

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 2 years ago

      Thanks John,

      Is that 1/1250 only at full power though? The Rovelight and HD-600 II will go all the way down to 1/16 power, and 1/8000 shutter speeds.

  24. john 2 years ago

    If they change the trigger with a new one having groups and a LCD screen, and a “fake” battery to can plug the flash on A/C i think it become a killer flash!!! I love it, is on my wish list.

  25. Amir 2 years ago

    The trigger is such a let-down and in desperate need of an update. It goes to sleep very quickly so you would have to be conscious of that all the time. There’s no LCD and therefore no indication of the current power setting. The light itself is well-built and powerful but its functionality is crippled with this archaic trigger.

  26. Craig 2 years ago

    Anyone really annoyed by how loose modifiers sit on the front of their Rovelight? If so I just fixed mine the other day. If you unscrew the 6 screws on the front of the unit, the face comes off. First I stuck some strips of thin foam sheet on the 3 spots where the speedring clicks into place. While much improved, it still had some play, so then I stuck this quick hardening polymer stuff in the grooves of the front plate that I took off earlier. It’s a very solid fit now. I’d share photos, but I don’t think I can on this site.

    FH EDIT – to add images –

    Foam Method –
    Image 1
    Image 2
    Image 3

    Polymer Putty Method –
    Image 1
    Image 2
    Image 3
    .

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 2 years ago

      Hi Craig,

      Yes its a little annoying for sure. I haven’t had a chance to look into how the mount is constructed yet though.

      You may have to be a bit careful to allow for other modifiers which may have different size lugs etc. Some Bowens mounts have a spring loaded backplate to allow for variations. I haven’t looked into the RoveLight mount construction yet though.

      I dropped you an email, and can upload image if needed. EDIT – images added to Craigs comment above. The polymer looks like a good simple method, thanks Craig!

  27. Paul Freeman 2 years ago

    Would this work with the Pocket Wizard Flex TT5 triggers or the Mini TT1 on the camera? I already have these.

    I’m reading that this should do HSS up to 1/8000 of a second.

    Your samples are 1/1000 of a second with some light variation. Whats it like at 1/8000?

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 2 years ago

      Hi Paul,

      Yes they should work ok with the TT1 and TT5. You can even mount the TRS transmitter straight on top of the TT1 on the camera, so you wouldn’t need an extra receiver attached to the flash.

      There are many different ways to set up the PocketWizards, and people often report different results with similar set ups.

      The results I got using triggers like the YN-622C where still fairly similar even by 1/8000th. This will vary with different timing though, and PocketWizards often don’t seem to be able to get quite the same timing as other simple TTL triggers like the YN-622C, and therefore don’t always reach 1/8000th, or have as clean a frame.

      You may even be able to dial in better results though, as I mentioned, the feedback and results always seems to vary with PocketWizards.

  28. Antonio 2 years ago

    Hi Elv,
    I ordered a bowen’s mount unit for me based on all the good comments here.
    I was thinking about the configuration you used to fire multiple lights that would require an additional remote. I may be wrong, since I don’t have my unit at hand yet, but my guess is that you don’t need any additional remotes to independently adjust the power at each unit without messing with the small buttons. You can leave LIGHT 1 in channel 1 and the Remote 1 in channel 1 on the camera hot shoe. That remote controls the power on LIGHT 1. The second Light will be triggered as an slave and be set in channel 2. The second remote will be set to channel 2 as well, so you can adjust its power independently, but it is not the remote that is triggering the flash, as it is working as an optical slave. The inconvenience is that you have to reach the Remote 1 on top of the camera, but since it is just 2 buttons, it might not be that complicated.
    Am I thinking anything wrong?

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 2 years ago

      Hi Antonio,

      I had a look and I think this should work, as you can use the optic slave mode, and radio mode, at the same time with the RoveLights.

      If you are using these out in the sun, or there are other people around taking photos though, the optic slave may not be ideal.

      Hopefully Jinbei will get moving on a new transmitter for these though anyway. I think they have gotten the message now at least.

  29. Josh 2 years ago

    Any ideas where I could get a reflector that is small like the one pictures above. It looks like it fits nicely in the bag mounted to the light. Mine came with an 8″ reflector that is way too big to fit in the bag mounted to the light. I need to be able to pull out the light already fully assembled and ready to use in seconds. The 8″ reflector is very inconvenient for this purpose. I bought the flashpoint mount thinking it would come with the smaller reflector just like the product image on their website. Adorama is telling me that there isn’t a smaller reflector available.

    • Tony M 2 years ago

      Josh,
      This was one of the reasons I’ve returned my Flashpoints for the Bowens mount. I thought that it would be identical to the Bowens version that Flash Havoc tested, with the exception of different mounts. Unfortunately, Adorama used the photos of the Bowens on their product page, and just got rid of the “B”. I’m sure this wasn’t done to mislead people, rather having to do with time constraints, product availability or cost of photography. They probably thought that they were the same other than mounts.

      The other difference is that 1) there’s no diffuser for the reflector, 2) the hole for the umbrella, (which I really need without a diffuser) doesn’t line up properly and 3) there’s no built in reflector around the bulb. Again, this is shown on the Adorama page to be the same.

      Unfortunately, being a flashpoint mount means far, far less available modifiers, including a small reflector! I thought I’d be fine with a traveling reflector, and use the Glow HexaPop and soft boxes, which I like.

      I’m a little miffed at the cost of having to ship these back – and will certainly be contacting Helen if I wind up eating that cost which I think I will. They should simply remove the photos of the product that shows the small reflector, diffuser, mounted umbrella (note that it doesn’t have to pass through the hole), or internal reflector. Which I guess basically means taking a picture of the actual product being a photography store and all I think they’ve got the means to do this!

      • Josh 2 years ago

        Tony I have found all of these to be true for me as well. They are supposedly working something out for me right now so I can use a smaller reflector. Currently I cut down the 8″ reflector to make it work better for me and made my own diffusers to use with velcro. It doesn’t look super professional and I am annoyed I had to do it. Is there a flashpoint to bowens adaptor I wonder?

        • hussey 2 years ago

          What does working something out mean? Are they actually having real reflectors in the right size (and hole) made for the flashpoint mount?

      • Josh 2 years ago

        Tony which size of reflector comes with the Bowens mount? Is it the same as we see in this review?

        Thanks!

  30. Steve 2 years ago

    I received my Rovelight 600B yesterday but only unboxed it today. Nice looking light and smaller than I thought it would be. My remote didn’t work out of the box until I reset it but otherwise seems fine.
    I got my unit in today! Here’s what happened.
    When I unboxed it and put in the battery, it wouldn’t power up. I figured that the battery must be dead so I charged it up. Still nothing. I pulled the fuse and it was fine. Plugged it back in and got power up but then shutdown right away. Pulled the fuse again. Then I looked in the battery at the fuses female connector. Bent! Left side was fine but the right side was bent to the side and not making contact. I bent it back so they would mate correctly but I’m a bit surprised. I just checked my VML and the female connector is soldered to the board at the edge of the PCB so there is less movement and much more solid connection.

    I’ve emailed Adorama and requested a new battery as I can’t trust fuse connector just because of metal fatigue. Realistically it may never be a problem but I don’t want that worry in the back of my head on a shoot. Anyone else think the finish of the battery seems cheap? I mean look at the seam below the handle.

    The battery >> https://www.dropbox.com/s/nnuosy6fws03p2h/20141030_093343.jpg?dl=0

    Comparison with other Flashpoint strobes >> https://www.dropbox.com/s/h49jk5kaejvb3ev/20141030_094341.jpg?dl=0

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 2 years ago

      Thanks for the feedback Steve. Adorama should replace the battery no problems.

      I haven’t had any issue with the contacts so haven’t really studied them. The clip that holds the battery in worried me a little as that looks easy to break. Though it does look replaceable as well.

      That’s an interesting size comparison to the other Flashpoint lights. I didn’t realize they are quite big.

    • hussey 2 years ago

      My battery seam doesn’t quite look that bad, but it does look pretty sloppy and cheap. I guess we just have to have faith in the long term reliability at this point.

  31. Steve 2 years ago

    As an update Helen from Adorama contacted me though POTN to have the battery replaced. Man, she’s good!

    Yes, the RL-600B is a bit slimmer and a bit heavier than the original Flashpoint strobes. The older strobes are pretty bulletproof and built that way too. I’m still trying to figure out a boom solution for these strobes as they are quite heavy (way heavier than my old Normans with the power pack!).

  32. Kenny 2 years ago

    Hi,

    I just received the Rovelight last week and I use Nikon D7000 & the New D750. I was confused by the review on Flash Havoc as it relates to the HSS. I have the YN622 TC, triggers. Will I need to attach one directly to the light and another on camera for HSS with Nikon? The review update about Nikon & the YN triggers was a little confusing.

    Thank You

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 2 years ago

      Hi Kenny,

      Yes at this stage it seems you will need a YN-622N or YN-622N-TX on the camera hotshoe, and a YN-622N attached to the RoveLight via a PC sync cord for the HSS to work.

      • Kenny 2 years ago

        So I have some good news for Nikon users. I tested the HSS on my Nikon D300, D7000 & D 750 using the YN622C-TX in the camera hotshoe with the supplied Rovelight trigger attached on top of the YN trigger and had no misfires on any of the cameras. I was shooting wide open f2.8 at speeds of 1/1600 & 1/2000 with no problems. Granted I only took five shots with each camera but the combo worked perfectly. I did not need to attach a separate YN to the light itself. This made me extremely happy! I tried shooting at full power, 1/2 power, 1/4, 1/8 & 1/16 and they all worked. I won’t know if there will be issues in the future with misfires, but as of now I am happy camper.

      • Kenny 2 years ago

        So I have some good news for Nikon users. I tested the HSS on my Nikon D300, D7000 & D 750 using the YN622C-TX in the camera hotshoe with the supplied Rovelight trigger attached on top of the YN trigger and had no misfires on any of the cameras. I was shooting wide open f2.8 at speeds of 1/1600 & 1/2000 with no problems. Granted I only took five shots with each camera but the combo worked perfectly. I did not need to attach a separate YN to the light itself. This made me extremely happy! I tried shooting at full power, 1/2 power, 1/4, 1/8 & 1/16 and they all worked. I won’t know if there will be issues in the future with misfires, but as of now I am happy camper.follow up. Strange that the HSS works with the Rovelight trigger on top of one of my YN triggers but not my other one.

  33. Steve 2 years ago

    Anyone have an idea what’s the difference between the slow and fast recycle options beyond time? Is there a reason no not have it on fast recycle all the time?

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 2 years ago

      Hi Steve,

      I couldn’t get any answers on this. One person mentioned it draws less from the battery, providing more pops then.

      I don’t know how accurate that is, though it would would make sense to some degree, as I can’t see what else its doing.

    • Craig 2 years ago

      I think it might have to do with more accurate color temperature, but that’s just speculation on my part. Isn’t that how the Einstein lights work?

      • Author
        Flash Havoc 2 years ago

        I don’t think so regarding the Einsteins. With those you can choose between less color variation, or shorter flash duration. I don’t know if either mode has any effect on recycle times there.

  34. Josh 2 years ago

    Does anyone know how to make the flash stay awake? Currently it falls asleep after a few minutes. This is not a problem if you are using the flashpoint trigger, or a trigger with “wake up” functions like the phottix strato, however the pocketwizard mini and flex do not wake up the flash. Any ideas on how to keep it awake?

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 2 years ago

      Hi Josh,

      I don’t know of any way to keep the flash awake, but I’m a bit confused as to why your triggers are not waking the flash (because most should I think).

      I was a bit worried I may have missed a major issue here, but I really don’t think there is any extra wake up feature possible with radio triggers when using a standard 2 contact PC sync cord to fire the flash. I took a multimeter to the end end of the PC sync cord, and there is no extra signal or closed circuit when you half press the transmitter button (even on Phottix Strato II).

      I don’t have the Mini and Flex here anymore to try unfortunately, but I can’t see why they could not wake the flash just as other radio trigger to PC sync cords do. Because all the trigger does is close the circuit on the full press. Unless its not closing the circuit for long enough, or something like that.

      If there’s really no way to get the Flex to wake the flash, maybe you could possibly add another set of Strato II etc in between the Flex and the flash. So put a Strato II transmitter on the Flex receiver, and connect a Strato II receiver to the flash / flashes then which should wake them as normal. That’s a bit of an extra work around, but I’m not sure how else it could be done.

      The FTR transmitter goes to sleep as well, so its not much point mounting that on a Flex receiver, unless you have them mounted somewhere close by the camera, and are prepared to keep turning the transmitter back on all the time anyway.

      If you make any progress with this please let us know. You wouldn’t have a Plus III or Plus X you can try as receiver to the TT1 instead by any chance?

  35. Josh 2 years ago

    I originally bought the flashpoint mont light. I ended up talking to Adorama for a while and got the Bowens mount at a discounted price. Before I got the bowens mount light I took a saw and cut the 8″ reflector down so that it was only about 6 1/4″ in diameter and 3-4″ deep. I then covered the misaligned umbrella hole, drilled a new one and hot glued a diffusion material to the front of the reflector (the same diffusion material used on fluorescent lights, you can buy it cheap at a hardware store). It make great, widespread, diffused light that actually looked nicer and had a higher output than the bowens mount light with factory diffuser. I have both lights and I end up using the flashpoint light more because the diy reflector is so tiny and makes the light more compact and easy to carry around.

  36. Craig 2 years ago

    “Where the RS600P almost definitely needs a support pole for holding up high for anything more than a short time.”
    Did you mean to say RL-600 instead of RS600P?

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 2 years ago

      Hi Craig,

      Sorry yes, I have updated that now to say RoveLight instead.

  37. Nathan Leduc 2 years ago

    I am looking to purchase a couple of these units as they are currently on sale for $379. However I am wanting the Bowen’s mount so a larger variety of modifiers. Is there a way for me to purchase the Bowen’s mount separate at a lower cost then the listed $599 unit? Thanks!

  38. Kelby 2 years ago

    Hi just wondering if you could tell me how the power compares to 4 ganged speedlights ? Would you be able to underexpose the back ground in bright midday sun portraits with this unit ? Thanks

    • christopher 2 years ago

      WAY more power than 4 flashes together ( more like 10 flashes together)
      I used it last week-end and I was surprised at the power!!!!

  39. christopher 2 years ago

    I just bought one….I am using it with my Fuji X-T1.
    And I LOVE it!!!!!!

    This thing is just freaking awesome, and a lot of flash power!!!!!!!!

    I had to keep it at 1/128 power even outdoor!!! LOL

    • johan 2 years ago

      Hello christopher,
      Do you have hss?
      Witch trigger you are using?
      Greetings
      Johan

  40. christopher 2 years ago

    Also, I was reading about misalignment with the 8″ reflector and umbrella bracket…

    I don’t know if they have changed that, but mine DOES NOT have the problem…
    It is actually perfect.
    I wish that I could post a photo of it, but I can’t

    EDIT by FH – Images now posted HERE and HERE.
    .

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 2 years ago

      Hi Christopher,

      Thanks that is interesting. You can email me the image – elv000(at)hotmail(dot)com

      and I’ll upload it to the server and put the link in your post. Thanks.

      EDIT – thanks Christopher images uploaded above.

  41. Cameron Akin 2 years ago

    I just received my rove light in the mail, and can’t seem to get the remote to speak to the monoblock. I saw that there was a little button in the battery compartment of the remote. Does that have anything to do with syncing the units together?

    • christopher 2 years ago

      Make sure that you press the power button on the remote for about 10 seconds.

      Also, as soon as I received it…I put fresh battery in it :)

      • christopher 2 years ago

        also make sure that the 4 little channel buttons are on the same settings on the remote and the light

  42. Cameron Akin 2 years ago

    Thanks Christopher,
    What does the button in the battery compartment do? I have tried all 15 channels and get them to talk to each other.

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 2 years ago

      Hi Cameron,

      Do you see the red LED’s blinking on the transmitter at all?

      As Christopher mentions, try the reset button, and also replacing the battery if possible.

      If this doesn’t work you may have a faulty transmitter, there have been a few. Adorama should exchange this pretty quickly if needed.

  43. christopher 2 years ago

    The button in the Compart is to reset in case it froze or stop “talking” to the light.
    I have use the light at 2 outdoors sessions this past week-end, and I love it!!!!

  44. Cameron Akin 2 years ago

    Thought I would try things again after fully charging the unit…..The remote blinks red after pressing the power button for three seconds so I know that the battery is working. Will try a new battery tomorrow.
    No channels are working, tried all 15.

    Should I send back the whole unit or just have them replace the remote trigger? Thanks for the advice.

    Cameron

    • christopher 2 years ago

      is the “Wireless symbol” ON on the light as well?

  45. Cameron Akin 2 years ago

    Hey, great news! I tried pulling out the battery in the remote and it worked fantastic. The DOF is amazing at 1/8000’s. This is what I have been looking for! Can’t wait to use it on a shoot.

    Thanks for the help guys!
    Cameron

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 2 years ago

      Ok great, thanks Cameron.

  46. christopher 2 years ago

    quick question : is it possible to fire the Rovelight with only the Yongnuo 622C without the Rovelight Remote???
    If yes, how can I do it ( as I believe the Rovelight remote not to be really reliable)

    thank you

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 2 years ago

      Hi Christopher,

      Yes just attach a YN-622C as receiver to the Rovelight with a PC to 3.5mm miniphone sync cord like this.

      Its good to have a back up in any case, but the TRS are surprisingly reliable if working properly.

      • christopher 2 years ago

        so, I am assuming that I would put the other 622c on top of the camera? right?

        • Author
          Flash Havoc 2 years ago

          Sorry, yes, a YN-622C or YN-622C-TX on the camera hotshoe (the YN-622C has better range though).

      • Charles 2 years ago

        Would you be able to note the brand/part number of that cord pictured in the above link? That is the perfect length and it’s coiled. It also has the screw on pc port. I can’t seem to find that combination anywhere. Thanks!

        • nem 2 years ago

          I’m sure you found it already, but just in case: FotoTech 3.5 mm to Male Flash PC Sync Cable 14-Inch Coiled Cord with Screw Lock —-> http://amzn.to/1PzjDHO

  47. Tony M 2 years ago

    Just an FYI on this product. My wife’s Real Estate office had their annual family with Santa picture session. There are 2 guys at her office that take pictures for the office, and send the families the shots. Of course, my wife wants me to take shots for her clients and print the pictures right then and there.

    So I offered my lights up as I wanted of course for this to be fantastic. The other guys would have been using a Metz and a 430EX II, which were anemic at best last year. What I did last year was set up my 2 600EX’s, one on camera and one as close as I could get to Santa with a glow octobox.

    This year, I had the RoveLights way back next to us, and a 600EX acting as a hair light. We could all trigger the Rovelights and 600EX optically. I was especially impressed that the RoveLights were practically at our sides, and still triggered just fine. The guys were really impressed as the lights more than made the sun coming in through the lobby entrance window (a huge problem last year) a non-issue.

    Everyone’s shots looked great, and the clients were quite happy. The 2 guys couldn’t believe these things were battery powered, and recycled faster than they could shoot. After hundreds of shots, the batteries were barely at 3/4. I was at 1/64 for the key light and 1/128 for the secondary. Just shooting through a couple of umbrellas.

    I think at least one of these guys is going to pick up a RoveLight as I told him what my main purpose for them was (not portraits!) and he got a gleam in his eye!

    If indeed Adorama has solved the alignment issue I could highly recommend the getting that version for the additional savings. This is a great, flexible and insanely powerful light for the cost.

    • christopher 2 years ago

      Tony :
      When did you did the Rovelight??

      I bought mine less than 2 weeks ago, with the 8″ Reflector and the alignment is perfect
      I use a Wescott 7′ Parabolic umbrella, and also tried a 33″ white umbrella as well as a 60″ convertible silver umbrella….and they all fit perfectly.

      Sincerely
      CHristophe

  48. christopher 2 years ago

    Little UPDATE

    The Remote SUCKS!!!! it worked the first couple of days and that was it!!!
    I use fresh batteries ( 2 different ones) and kept on pressing the reset….but still not working.

    I had to use the Yongnuo 622c and a profoto Male3.5mm miniphoto to PC cable ( $11 at B&H )

    I contacted Adorama, I was told that a new remote would be sent to me…
    However, a few days later they contacted me to tell me to put fresh battery and press the reset!!!!!!! WTF!!!!
    I have done that!!!!!!
    Good thing that I had the Yongnuo for a wedding that I had to photograph

    Hopefully, they will send me a new remote before the start of the wedding season (February for me)

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 2 years ago

      Hi Christopher,

      You can also pick up a few back up Jinbei TRS transmitters from around $19.95.

      • christopher 2 years ago

        @flash Havoc :
        have you ordered from this site? is it secured and legit??

  49. christopher 2 years ago

    Anyways….I just ordered one remote!
    the worst that can happen is losing $20!!! LOL

  50. Keano 2 years ago

    Hi. I’m new to flash and strobe game. I like these becasue I’m banging my head to go flash or strobe first. These solve both issues. Mobile and also can do action freeze.

    Can you tell me should I use a separate triggering system. Is it stable?

    • christopher 2 years ago

      Hello Keano,

      if and when the remote that comes with the flash works…then it is great!!!! you can adjust the power from a distance.
      However, mine worked for a few days, then stopped working. I think that it was defective.
      So, I am now using a Yongnuo 622C which is great!!! works all the time. ( the only problem is that you cannot control the power of the flash from a distance…..but it is NOT bothering for me)

      If you choose to use the Yongnuo, you will also need a Male 3.5mm miniphone to pc cable. I bought that one ( I think that I got the last one since it is now backorder) : http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1009450-REG/profoto_103011_male_3_5mm_miniphone_to.html

      Also as Flashhavoc recommended , I bought an extra remote directly from China ( it is already on its way to m e and it is only $20) : http://thephotogadget.com/products/jinbei-24ghz-trs-remote-transmitter-jinbei-msn-ii-ecdii-ecl-dpsiii-ef-100

      I hope that helps..
      other than that, the light is really great!!!!!!

      • keano 2 years ago

        Thanks Christopher. I appreciate the feedback and sorry about late response. What did yo mean by “( the only problem is that you cannot control the power of the flash from a distance”. Can’t the controller sit on top of the Yongnuo and you change power settings using the RL controller?

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