GODOX AD600B / XPLOR 600 – Strobe Announced

XPLOR 600 TTL / AD600B


Godox have announced the AD600 Witstro, an all in one 600WS Lithium-ion powered TTL and HSS enabled portable strobe, with Canon, Nikon. Sony, Fuji, and M4/3, compatible 2.4GHz radio receiver units built inside.

The AD600B can be controlled with full TTL, HSS, and Remote Manual power control via the 2.4GHz Godox X1 transmitter units, or master speedlite units like the V860II,  TT685, and TT350 speedlites.

Both TTL, and Manual / HSS, versions of the AD600 are available, though in the USA the TTL version is only available exclusively from Adorama under the Flashpoint XPLOR 600 TTL branding.



XPLOR 600 TTL / AD600B





  • Powerful 600Ws
  • Fan Cooled
  • 10W LED Modelling Light (Adjustable)
  • Optional Remote Head (600Ws & 1200Ws Options)
  • Bowens S-type Mount
  • Built in (removable) 11.1V / 8700mAh Lithium-ion Battery
  • Up to 500 Full Power Pops Per Battery Charge
  • 0.01 – 2.5 Seconds Recycle Time
  • Flash Modes – TTL / M / Multi
  • HSS to 1/8000th
  • Second Curtain Sync
  • FEC / FEB – 1/3rd Increments (±3 Stops)
  • FEL (Flash Exposure Lock)
  • Manual Flash – 1/256 – 1/1 Output (1/3rd Increments)
  • Godox 2.4GHz X Radio System
  • Canon, Nikon. Sony, Fuji, M4/3, Radio Slave Modes (Auto Switching)
  • Range – 100m + with X1 as Transmitter
  • Groups – A / B / C / D / E
  • 32 Channels
  • Supports Legacy Godox FT-16 Remote Manual Trigger System
  • Supports Godox XT-16 / XT32 Remote Manual Trigger System
  • Canon & Nikon Optic Wireless Slave Modes
  • Groups – A / B / C
  • 4 Channels
  • S1 & S2 Optic Slave Modes
  • Flash Duration – 1/220s-1/10000s
  • Large Dot Matrix LCD Display
  • Custom Functions
  • Auto Memory Function
  • Micro USB Port for Firmware Upgrades
  • USB Communication Port (For FTR-16 & XTR-16 Receivers)
  • 3.5mm Sync Port



XPLOR 600 / AD600B


The AD600B also provide the option of a lightweight remote head, making the strobe exceptionally versatile.

A soft case and shoulder strap then provide support for the strobe.

The remote heads will be available in both Bowens and Godox mounts, and in 600Ws and 1200Ws versions – AD-H600B / AD-H1200B, and AD-H600 / AD-H1200.

To achieve the 1200Ws output two strobes will be attached to the one 1200Ws head via a 2 into 1 adapter cable.


Godox AD-H600


The remote head is enabled via a cord which plugs into the strobe flash tube socket, acting as an extension cord between the strobe and remote flash tube.


Godox AD-H600


The AD600B’s removable 11.1V / 8700mAh Lithium-ion battery provides a health 500 full power flashes from one charge.

And the complete strobe in the cordless configuration weighs approximately 2.9kg.


Godox AD600B




Wireless slave mode *Radio transmission mode (compatible with Canon, Nikon. Sony, Fuji, & M4/3)*Optical transmission mode (compatible with Nikon & Canon)
Flash mode Local M/Multi
2.4G slave mode TTL/ M/Multi
Optic slave mode TTL/ M/Multi
Slave unit compatible camera Nikon  i-TTL/M/RTP flash(master unit uses TTL wireless flash trigger X1N etc)Canon EOS E-TTL II/M/Multiflash(master unit uses TTL wireless flash trigger  X1C etc)
GN ( 1/1) 87 (m ISO 100, with AD-R7 standard reflector)
Flash duration 1/220s-1/10000s
Power control 9 steps:1/256~1/1
Multi flash √(times:100 times;frequency:100)
Flash exposure compensation  (FEC) manual,FEB:±3 stops in 1/3 increments
Flash sync HSS(1/8000s),first curtain sync,second curtain sync
Flash delay 0.1~10s
Modeling lamp(LED) 10W
Optic slave flash S1/S2
Screen Dot matrix LCD screen
WIRELESS(Optic and 2.4G
Wireless flash function slave,off
Controllable slave groups 5 groups:A, B, C, D, E
Distance Optic indoor:12~15m/39.4~49.2 feet outdoor:8~10m/26.2~32.8 feet
2.4G 80m
Channel Optic 4 groups:1, 2, 3, 4
2.4G 32 groups:1~32
Power Lithium(11.1V/8700mAH)
Full power flash times 500 times
Recycling time 0.01s-2.5s
Power status
Power saving Power off automatically after 1 hour’s none operation
Triggering mode 3.5mm port,PC port,wireless remote port
Color temperature 5600±200k
Size 220*245*125mm (flash tube & reflector not included)
Weight  2.66Kg (flash tube & reflector not included) Aprox. 2.9KG total





There are also Godox mount versions of the strobe available, so 4 versions in total –

Bowens Mount TTL – AD600B
Bowens Mount Manual – AD600BM

Godox Mount TTL – AD600
Godox Mount Manual – AD600M

NOTE – the Godox mount remote heads will not attach to the Bowens mount strobes, and vice versa.





The Godox AD600B are priced from $749 for the TTL version, and $549 for the Manual version.

In the USA the TTL version is only available exclusively from Adorama under the Flashpoint XPLOR 600 TTL branding.

XPLOR 600 TTL – Adorama, Amazon, Ebay
GODOX AD600B – AmazonUKEbay

XPLOR 600 HSS – Adorama, AmazonEbay
GODOX AD600BM – AmazonUKEbay


Godox – Website


  1. Joe 3 years ago

    Curious to know if it would be possible to use two remote heads via a splitter cable, to get essentially 2 x 300ws ?
    Obviously the power to each head wouldn’t be separately controllable, but would be handy and economical for situations where that’s not necessary. E.g. lighting a white background, or providing even side lighting.

  2. mike Weeks 3 years ago

    Still waiting on a Bowens remote head I ordered but really interested to know if there are any updates on the promised AC adapter and also if there is any info the the H1200 head


  3. Seamless Media 3 years ago

    Does anyone have info on the length of the remote head extension? This info seems to be absent, and it is one of the selling points of the strobe. Thanks!

    • Amir 3 years ago

      3 meters I’m told.

  4. mike Weeks 3 years ago

    Glad to see Sony added in to the firmware 🙂

  5. Fred 3 years ago

    I have the flash for about 3 weeks and it is simply amazing. Very reliable and easy communication between the X1 and the flash, the quality of the light is excellent and it is very constant which is very important! I’ll be curious to try the remote head when it is released.

  6. John 3 years ago

    I got to use this with a family photoshoot and wedding. I love the TTL option on this thing. I was out in bright sunlight with a scrim, and can’t see my LCD. I put it in Av mode and TTL, and focus on the posing, and I got great results. At night time, I use it with 60 inch umbrella to get formal pictures. I never notice any slow down when it come to recycle time. The recyecle time is much faster than Godox AD360II My petite assistant complain about being heavier, so I may have to look into the remote head. I just need Godox to upgrade the firmware to allow TTL to retain info when switching to manual and I’m set!

  7. Mark Kitaoka 3 years ago

    I received my first remote head for the AD600. My initial stats are located here.

    • Ulysses 3 years ago

      Nice continuation of the ongoing series, Mark. I enjoy these. 🙂

      And I think I learned something, too: I didn’t realize this remote head was different from the one which will produce 1200 Ws… or is it simply a matter of the dual-head cable along with a second AD600 is all that’s needed? I’ve never been clear on this point.

      One minor correction on the update of 4.10.16:
      The small one on the floor is an octabox (probably a QB33 or QS33), while the large one with the focusing rod is their RiceBowl RB-90. CheetahStand offer so my variants n their modifiers, some of our readers are bound to get lost over there as they look for these tools.

      • Mark Kitaoka 3 years ago

        The small modifier on the floor is not from CheetahStand but Phottix. It’s their fold able small white beauty dish. Yes the Rice Bowl with my DIY focusing rod is their RB90. Not sure about the 1200ws Y cable. I would imagine the bulb would be different than the AD600, but I may be incorrect.

  8. Mark Kitaoka 3 years ago

    Just got my first remote head. The LED modeling light works perfect. Bravo to Godox for their modular designs!

    • Ken 3 years ago

      Looked awesome there, Mark. I wonder if the power could be cut in half. Let say, if I have a head for 1200 W connected to 2 AD 600 units, but if I want to use only 600 W out of 1200 W bulb, could I just connect to one AD 600 unit instead?

  9. Mark Kitaoka 3 years ago

    I’m yet unclear if it’s the bulb or the power or both….

  10. Mark Kitaoka 3 years ago

    I love the HSS and remote head of the AD600 line! Allows so many creative choices. Had a chance to use both this weekend.

  11. Ulysses 3 years ago

    Very nicely demonstrated, Mark. Thank you! So I have a couple of questions (as usual). 🙂

    1. Love that second photo, the portrait of the seated girl. I like simple and clean like this. But what do you feel the remote head is contributing to the experience that you wouldn’t get with the strobe alone? Is it that you’ve mounted it to the boom and therefore have a lightweight option for that setup?

    2. Regarding the photo of your boom posted in the 4-21-16 update: Are you using a SuperClamp with some sort of pin on which to mount the AD600? Do you find that at all inconvenient or awkward? Maybe it’s not a problem in a studio situation, whereas for mobile shooting it’s not ideal?

    • Mark Kitaoka 3 years ago

      Ulysses, you remind me of one of my students back in the day. She use to ask lots of questions and I found that those who ask ‘non stupid’ questions tend to be the most intelligent. And yes ‘sometimes’ I would get frustrated with her! LOL.

      1. The photograph of Carmel was done very impromptu. She does so many ‘selfies’ that don’t really show how lovely she is that I told her I’d do one quickly. (I prefer more ‘non simple’ portraits, but in this instance…) The reason I love the remote head here is I had to travel out of state for the primary purpose and didn’t want to take my large hard golf bag to transport light stands, etc. So I took my favorite little light stand. The ability to place the head on a lightweight light stand is epic. As an example an AD360 with a Bowens S bracket weighs 2 lbs 13oz. The remote AD600 head weighs 1 lbs, 11 ounces, a savings of 1 lbs, 2 ounces. That’s a very large difference on a lightweight travel light stand. I simply placed the battery/power on the ground in this instance.

      2. On the 4-21-16 image I am using a Kupo superclamp (which I find better than others BTW due to the ratcheting handle) with a Kupo Baby 5/8 Inches (16mm) Snap-In Pin. I then use a Impact Rapid Baby to 3/8″ Male Threaded Adapter so I have a vertical stud to place the AD600 power/battery unit near the base of the light stand. I have yet to find a 90 degree arm that is short enough to NOT use the snap in pin and threaded adapter. I use this configuration ON LOCATION and in studio. At some point I will source a truss clamp and install them on my light stands which will be less inconvenient. If I could post photos here I would, but for now you can look up the items I use.

      3. My new wish is Godox at some point offers an extension cable for the remote head.

      • Ulysses 3 years ago

        Very, very nice explanation, Mark. I enjoy these deeper looks into doing things differently and f ding the tools that help us adapt.

        So you need a cable even longer than the included 9′ (3 meters)?

        • Mark Kitaoka 3 years ago

          Yes there are times when the stand/boom combination I use requires a longer cable length than nine feet. Primarily for studio dance sessions where dancers leap with arms extended. I can move the power pack up on the stand but prefer to keep the weight low on the stand. Make sense?

      • Tim Kamppinen 3 years ago

        Too bad there isn’t a shorter version of this: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1069601-REG/kupo_kg009112_nnn.html

        Although having the strobe mounted farther out from the center might actually help if you position it opposite the boom. Still seems less stable in general though.

  12. Ole Sollie 3 years ago

    There… its done… the want exceeded the self control. The unit is now ordered and I can’t wait getting started! 🙂
    Awesome reports you keep updating with Mark, pretty much what got me deciding!

    • Mark Kitaoka 3 years ago

      Hey Ole sorry about making you spend money! LOL
      I can simply say that the AD600 series may soon replace my beloved Einsteins I have used for five years. I still feel that the PCB Cybercommader is a much better transmitter than the X1 series. With the CC I am able to control up to 16 lights in loads of groups. Paul’s design of that unit takes some ‘learning’ to make it second nature, but it really is a brilliant piece of gear.

      Enjoy your new purchase(s). I believe you will be very pleased.

      • Tim Kamppinen 3 years ago

        I guess how much you like the Cyber Commander depends on whether you actually utilize those sixteen groups, store lighting setups in the memory, etc. The most I ever used it with at one time was two Einsteins, and while it was amazing when it first came out for what it was able to do, I always hated the cluttered interface, the tiny fiddly joystick buttons, and how complicated it was to use. Once I got the Radiopopper JR2 trigger with an einstein receiver I never used the cyber commander again. The one thing that I did think was great about it though was the built in light meter and how easy it was to use that to adjust the flash power.

        • Mark Kitaoka 3 years ago

          Glad you found what works for you Tim.

          • Tim Kamppinen 3 years ago

            Well I just got my Flashpoint branded AD600, and I’ve been using the 685’s for a while now, so it’s likely that I’ll be selling my remaining Einstein (already sold one) and going full Godox pretty soon as well. The things that the Einsteins excel at just aren’t as important to me as the things the Godox equipment excel at, primarily speed, simplicity, and ease of use when shooting on location.

            • Ulysses 3 years ago

              My Cheetah equivalents were delivered a couple hours ago. Been busy working in the studio (office work and processing) and haven’t even had time to open the boxes! :'(

              Hopefully I get to celebrate with everyone else soon!

              Tim, your reasons are exactly why I move away from the Einsteins and Bees. What they do well just wasn’t what I needed. And my needs have evolved even further over the years. Right now, what I need fits almost exactly what Godox is trying to provide. So I’m hoping I can sit here easily with their system for the next several years.

              Happy unboxing, Tim! 🙂

  13. Mark Kitaoka 3 years ago

    Example http://www.markkitaoka.com/photo-blog/index.php?showimage=2287

    I often use a light overhead in addition to three or four other lights for dance. Adding fabric requires height above the dancer.

    • Ulysses 3 years ago

      This dancer series is outstanding. I think what I appreciate most about it is the very obvious active interplay between artist to achieve the result. Must be fun but also intense! Would love to do this type of work someday.

      And yes… keeping the weight low on the stand does make sense. I have not yet heard of a longer cable than the 3m cable included, but if I come across it I will definitely remember to let you know. 🙂

      • Mark Kitaoka 3 years ago

        Thanks yes if you hear any rumors about an extension cable please let me know.

        • Tim Kamppinen 3 years ago

          Mark, depending on the lengths (pun not intended) you’re willing to go, you could probably just buy an extra remote head, cut the cord and splice it into the one you already have. You could probably even make it look fairly professional with some heat shrink tubing, etc. depending on how skilled you are with that sort of thing.

          But yeah, an actual extension cable from Godox would be great.

          • Mark Kitaoka 3 years ago

            Tim! OMG you gave me a great idea. I receive my second head extension today so I am going to try to use one as an extension. Since they are male/female with the same pin configuration it should work. And yes I’m fairly good at soldering wires so I ‘may’ make my own extended version.

            • Tim Kamppinen 3 years ago

              So you can detach one of the cords from the two end pieces, and then plug it in between the other cord and head? Sounds like a good solution.

            • Ulysses 3 years ago

              Mark, I was actually wondering if that might be do-able, but didn’t suggest it because I haven’t actually seen the cable in person. But it makes sense that the ends would be male/female. I’m no good AT ALL at soldering, so I’d probably just connect the two together and call it a day for that particular rare shoot. LOL! Glad you may have found a solution. 🙂

              • Mark Kitaoka 3 years ago

                I just spoke to Ed at CheetahStand and he stated it would result in a one stop loss of power by combining two H600 cords.

  14. Mark Kitaoka 3 years ago

    I just did a test comparing the power output of the AD600 versus the H600.

    • mike weeks 3 years ago

      putting power down a cable will reduce the amount of power so not unexpected. I have seen similar power drops from introducing longer cables on other similar systems.

    • Tim Kamppinen 3 years ago

      Thanks Mark, glad to hear it’s not a drastic loss of power. 1/3 stop is almost always manageable by simply moving the light a bit closer to the subject, or even just some slight dodging of the file in post if worse comes to worst. Definitely easier to deal with that then the problem of a heavy light on a long boom or on top of a light stand in windy conditions. Should be getting my H600 today, looking forward to playing around with it.

  15. Mark Kitaoka 3 years ago

    I just did a power test of the AD600 using HSS. Interesting….

    • Jimmy 3 years ago

      Mark, that is incredible. So you’re saying there is no power loss between 1/500th and 1/800th, and you’re still able to get a constant F/18? What distance were you testing at?

    • Jimmy 3 years ago

      Sorry, that should have said “no power loss between 1/500th and 1/8000th”.

    • Tim Kamppinen 3 years ago

      You can’t meter accuratly in HSS with an incident flash meter because it’s actually a series of flashes acting together as a constant light source. If you leave the flash at the same power level and take a series of photos at different shutter speeds you’ll see the output decreasing as predicted.

      • Mark Kitaoka 3 years ago

        Thanks Tim for the clarification. I thought it was strange to get the same reading. Your logic makes sense with the pulsing and a flash meter.

      • Mike 3 years ago

        Sorry but that is not a very accurate description of HSS.

        HSS pulses at somewhere about 40,000 times a second and in reality becomes a constant light source. You automatically lose 1 stop of light by going into HSS mode plus the amount of stops above sync that you are (for the 360 & 600 from my testing)

        The power does not go down, but because you are reducing the amount of time you are capturing the light you effectively have a lower exposure, to compensate just open the lens by the same as you shorten the exposure. To recap the Output does not go down, it is constant light, you have just decided to record less of it.

        So if you meter at X-Sync (non HSS) you can apply the following,

        Metered at X-Sync (1/250) = f16

        Change to HSS at 1/500 would be -1 stop for HSS and -1 stop going from 1/250 to 1/500 i.e. f8

        If we wanted to use at 1/2000 it would be -1 stop for HSS and -3 stops going from 1/250 to 1/2000 i.e. -4 stops so f4

        This may not be perfect but is fairly close and can be used as a starting point.

        • Mark Kitaoka 3 years ago

          Thanks so much Mike!

        • Tim Kamppinen 3 years ago

          Mike, I’m not sure how much of that was directed at me but you’re basically saying the same thing I did. When I said the output decreases as you increase shutter speed, I was (obviously, I think) talking about the quantity of light that makes it to your camera’s sensor, not the total number of photons emitted from the flash bulb.

    • Mark Kitaoka 3 years ago

      Because my method of measurement was not accurate I have taken that post offline.

  16. Jason 3 years ago

    Hi everyone. Im hoping someone can answer my question. I really want to get the wistro 600adb but all my other flashes are yongnuos and are all run with yn622c receivers and i trigger them with a yn622tx on my camera. My question is in 2 parts. 1) Can i fire the godox 600 by putting a yn622c receiver on it? And if so will i still be able to control power settings remotely or will i have to get the godox xc1, use the yongnuo to trigger but xc1 to ajust power (say from my pocket). Question 2) If i cant use yongnuo to trigger, is there a way i can run 2 systems simultaneously but seperately (yongnuo speedlights and godox 600) by say having the yongnuo yn622tx transmitter sit on the pass through on the godox xc1?. Thank dB heaps in advance!!

    • Henke 3 years ago

      I have the same problem…. Been trying to get it to work with the 622tx on top of the x1, it works, sort of… It flashes sometimes and other not, hss does not work on the Yongnuo, when you change powersettings on the x1 it changes the settings on the 622tx a little here and a little their…!! So i dont think the passthrough on the x1 is “fast enough”… Been thinking about using a standard 622 (without the display) on camera and have the x1 on top, to see if that works better… The downside to that is that you have to get in to the cameras meny to change the settings of the Yongnuo…. The other problem is that i dont have a standard 622, but if you do, i would really appreciate if you could give it a try…!

      Hope you get it all , and sorry if their are some miss spellings, im a Swede you know..!!! 🙂

      Best regards/ Henke

  17. Tim Kamppinen 3 years ago

    Got my H600 from Amazon… and the cord is only 8 feet, not nine. What’s up with that?

    • Ulysses 3 years ago

      Tim: Haven’t you heard? 2.44m is the new 3 meters! 🙂

  18. Tim Kamppinen 3 years ago

    First thing I did with my AD600 was test the high speed sync for gradient issues. I have seen disappointing results with this on previous 3rd party flashes, with levels of gradation across the frame that were unacceptable for me, especially at higher shutter speeds. This includes the 1st version AD360 that I had for a while. Some will say it’s just nitpicking but if the bottom of the frame is 1 stop or more brighter than the top, think of what that is going to do in an image. I don’t want to take a headshot and have the person’s shoulders/chest be 1 stop brighter than their forehead. On someone dressed in white (a bride for instance) you could easily end up blowing the highlights on her dress in order to get a proper exposure on the face.

    To test this, I photographed a white wall, with the camera on a tripod. I bounced the AD600 off the wall/ceiling behind me on the other side of the room to ensure that the light was spread evenly across the frame, and I shot at f/5.6 to eliminate any lens vignetting. I took five shots from 1/250 to 1/4000 (highest shutter speed on my D750) and I adjusted the ISO with each change of shutter speed to keep the exposure constant.

    I was ecstatic to find that the AD600 shows no gradient whatsoever in the resulting images, and not only that but the exposures are all within 1/3 stop of each other (and that variance could easily have been due to differences in the ISO sensitivity, i.e. ISO 400 is not always exactly one stop more sensitive than ISO 800, etc).

    You can see the test shots here: http://www.timkphotography.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/AD600-HSS-Gradient-Test.jpg

    • Ulysses 3 years ago

      First of all, congrats on getting your remote head! I’m still undecided on it, but I look forward to reading about it to help me further with my own decision.

      I don’t anticipate needing to go into very high shutter speeds for the head shots we do, but I do totally get and agree with your point about not wanting those gradients to be a factor worth worrying about. I try to test this sort of new gear with the same attention.

      Later when I’m back at the studio office this evening, I’ll share some results I had when comparing the CheetahStand CL-600X with the Phottix Indra500. I’m looking at any gradients when they kick into high shutter speed mode, color consistency, power consistency, etc. I’ll say this: I’m very pleased with the Cheetah/Godox product. I do see whispers of gradient at a couple of shutter speeds in my test (Nikon cameras), but nothing that causes me concern, and certainly not any gradients of 1-stop or more.

  19. Tim Kamppinen 3 years ago

    Did myself a test to compare the power output between the Einstein and the AD600. I have zero interest in comparing the output with 7″ reflectors because I don’t use those very often and if I do I’m pretty much never going to be using the light at full power. Of much greater relevance to the type of work that I do is whether the light is powerful enough to balance or overpower direct sunlight while still using a large modifier at decent working distances (enough to allow a full length portrait).

    With that in mind, I tested the Einstein vs the AD600 using a 60″ soft silver PLM with diffusion fabric. In both cases the surface of the diffusion panel was 6.5′ from my light meter. The results:

    Einstein: f/20 @ISO100
    AD600: f/18 @ISO100

    So the AD600 is only 1/3 stop less powerful than the Einstein. That’s great news for me because I almost never used my Einstein at full power anyway, and even in those extreme conditions 1/3 stop could be pretty easily made up by moving the light slightly closer to the subject.

    I also tested the AD600 at the same distance with a Fotodiox Ez-Pro 36″ collapsible Octa with both inner and outer diffusion panel installed. Got f/16 @ISO100.

    And out of curiosity I did test the 7″ reflector that came with the AD600, and I got f/29 @ISO100.

    Finally, I metered the modeling lights with the PLM. The Einstein’s 250W modeling light got 1/100, f/2.8, ISO1600 while the AD600’s LED modeling light only metered at 1/30, f/2.8, ISO1600, about one and two-thirds stops dimmer than the Einstein. The low-powered modeling light is a drawback if you’re going to be using these lights in a studio with a decent level of ambient light already present and you want to really see what the light is doing. On the other hand, it doesn’t get hot enough to burn you or melt your modifiers, and for use in a darker studio or just in a night time scenario where you need help focusing it’s still plenty bright.

    • Tim Kamppinen 3 years ago

      Also forgot to mention, the 1/3 stop difference matches what Mark found when testing the two side by side.

    • Ulysses 3 years ago

      Just wanted to say nice job, Tim. And it was nice that you also quantified the performance of the modeling LED in the AD600.

  20. Ulysses 3 years ago

    CheetahStand CL-600X and Phottix Indra500 comparison:
    X1T-N and Odin 1.5 each in manual mode.
    Nikon D700 in manual mode, WB set to 5260K
    As I dialed up the power on the strobes, I increased shutter speeds to take the strobes into high shutter speed modes.

    I was interested in a few things: Color consistency at varying light power and shutter speeds, the shift from normal shutter speeds to high shutter speeds, and how well the lights synced to the camera at higher shutter speeds.

    You can download the composite image here:

  21. Doug 3 years ago

    Anyone compare the Godox ad600 remote heads vs Profoto 2 heads yet? Like, head to head? Would be cool. If someone did and I just missed it, disregard.

    Thanks guys!

    Note: I just received my remote heads. I’m excited!

  22. John 3 years ago

    I have both AD600 & 360 II. I’m debating which one I should bring on airplane for a shoot. I was thinking of AD600B. It is top heavy with a modifier, but it’s more powerful and all in one solution (No cable to deals with other than the charger)

  23. Charlie 3 years ago

    Does anyone know if the 600 is capable of TTL while using HSS? Also will the setting obtained in TTL remain when switching back to manual mode like the Profoto does? Thanks in advance. Im in the process of updating my lighting system and Im not sure if I want to buy more Eintseins, I already have one and a bunch of Alien Bees or switch over to this system or te Interfit S1.

    • Mike 3 years ago

      Yes it does do TTL in HSS mide

  24. Will 3 years ago

    Can anyone recommend a good grid / gel system for bowens mount. I have been spoiled with the magmod system now modifiers on strobes seem clunky compaired 🙂

  25. Andy 3 years ago

    Has anyone have a chance to try both Rovelight 600 (from Adorama) and AD600? How is the HSS between the two? Currently I use AD360, but want to get either Rovelight or AD600 (Bowen mount).


  26. Andy 3 years ago

    Thanks Mark Kitaoka. Sounds like you prefer AD600 better. By looking at the picture, AD600 seems to be smaller and easier to carry.

    Great work, by the way.

    • Mark Kitaoka 3 years ago

      Andy at the time I really enjoyed the Rovelights. Incredible battery life, powerful, compact unit. The trigger at that time was the deal breaker. I cannot afford to use gear that is not dependable. But by comparison the AD600 just fits my needs better. The X1 controller, the battery life, the HSS, the second curtain sync and the remote heads makes it worth the extra 50.00. Plus Godox’s innovation in allowing a user to convert the units into a 1200 or 2400ws unit is very forward thinking. I realize that those additions may not be useful for some shooters, but for me that option when needed is very attractive. I have switched to inverted softboxes like the CononMark 16 rod type with focusing rods for most of my modifiers and the remote heads of the AD600 line are perfect for those applications.

      The eco system they have developed with the AD360s and speedlights is something other manufacturers should notice. I’ve been a loyal Einstein user for years, but am changing over to the Godox line of strobes. Paul was truly the innovator over at PCB and with his death I wonder what sort of innovation will occur in the future for PCB. To me Paul was the Jobs of light in terms of innovation.

      For me light trumps a camera or lens. I’m so happy that a company like Godox has developed a high value system.

      • Ulysses 3 years ago

        I’m going to second the comments about the value of a good lighting system. I was completely prepared to make a move on the new Nikon D5 and its sister camera, the D500. Not that I won’t need new camera gear eventually, but for now I opted to forgo those purchases, canceling my pre-orders. I decided instead to concentrate on putting together a better rounded lighting system for my needs. I’ve been on this arc for a few years now, exploring various systems that might suit my needs better than the hodge-podge and half-pieces of gear I’d experimented with for a long time. Godox feels like the one that I’m going to settle upon and be very happy with for a long time to come.

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 3 years ago

      Andy, the AD600 is actually bigger and heavier than the RoveLight.

      And even with the new flash tube they are still around 7 to 8 tenths of a stop less powerful than the RoveLight when used in the same softbox etc (which is interesting considering the RoveLights size and weight advantage).

      Having said all that, I agree with the others that there are just so many advantages to the AD600, it would be very hard to choose the RoveLight now unless the straight out raw power was your main priority. In that case the RoveLight still have their place, its just unfortunate even the limited radio system is lacking from what it should be.

  27. John 3 years ago

    Mark, I completely agree.

    I’m transition to Godox system for my wedding/portrait business. This combined with Godox AD360 II, some Yongnuo manual flashes (transitioning to Godox flashes), and some modifiers allowed to take on any wedding and any lighting situation. It really allows me to provide higher production value for all my shoots than upgrading my Canon to a Sony A7R II or Nikon.

  28. Charlie 3 years ago

    So you would take the Godox system over the Einstein System? Im in the process of updating my lighting gear and Im on the fence about buying into the Einsten system more ( I currently have one Einstein and a bunch of B800s) or investing in the Ad600 system. I currently shoot both studio and on location, soI think the Godox syste would offer me more flexibility. Your thoughts and thank you!

    • Tim Kamppinen 3 years ago

      I have been shooting with two Einsteins and a host of speedlights for about 5 years now. The two biggest thorns in my side have been dealing with the various radio triggers and trying to get the two types of lights to work together, and having to use an ND filter to achieve shallow depth of field when shooting outdoors with flash. A lesser annoyance was dealing with the separate vagabond battery pack and the power cord. The commonality between these three problems is that they all involve extra parts and take extra time to setup/use. I shoot weddings, and two things I never have a surplus of are space in my bag and time to set stuff up… as a consequence I often felt like I was compromising more than I would like to when it came to creative portraits on the wedding day.

      The Godox system solves all of these problems for me with speedlights and strobes that work together seamlessly with no external receivers to manage, with HSS capabilities and built in power sources. I’ve already sold one Einstein and I plan to sell the other one soon, along with my old triggers and remote speedlights. I’ve been hanging on to my SB910 thus far as a last-ditch fail safe, but once I get my V860II and have a chance to test drive it I’ll probably get rid of that one too.

      Whether you’ll want to switch to Godox largely depends on what your priorities are in a flash system. If you have similar frustrations as I did, it might be a good move. I will say that if you rely heavily on the Einstein’s modeling light, you should know that the LED modeling light on the AD600 is almost two stops dimmer and may not be sufficient.

      • Ulysses 3 years ago

        I’m going to concur very much with Tim. But I’m also a wedding & portrait photographer who also dabbles a bit in commercial portraits and commercial architecture. My needs are very similar to his. In fact, I’d go so far as to say that most event and portrait photographers would be better off with an integrated system of strobes, flashes, and radios, rather than trying to cobble together a self-made system comprised of various components from several different manufacturers.

        With Godox/Cheetah, I have the power of a mid-range strobe, I have an on-camera flash that can act as a master to control all of my remote Godox/Cheetah lights, and I have a radio transmitter that can talk to the built-in receivers of my remote lights. Some parts of the system (the CL-360X) even have TTL capability, should I need that. So it’s a system with a lot of flexibility.

        I enjoyed the Einsteins and PCB gear when I had it. But I rather quickly felt I’d moved beyond what it could provide me. I wanted the occasional HSS capability. And I wanted a more complete system, which PCB wasn’t offering me.

        That said, some of the PCB equipment may be what you need for your shooting environment or working style. Some of the PCB strobes have fantastic stopping power if you’re shooting fast-moving action. Or they have long light fall-off tails if you need that. They have plenty of strobes that plug into main socket power if you need that. So think about what those needs are, and let those priorities shape the gear you get.

        • Mark Kitaoka 3 years ago

          Amen Ulysses. I looked at the Broncolor Move line, own Priolite Hotsync 1000, and own 5 Einsteins. As a full time shooter who specializes in publicity and performance photography the Godox line is my choice now. Although I’m not a speedlight user I can see how Godox has anticipated the needs of a wide variety of users.

          My only concern is service on the units. PCB has had stellar service. So I would strongly suggest purchasing units from Adorama or CheetahStand, two retailers who are known for good return policies. This does not address repair, so I’m hoping that Godox expands its service in the US. If not then the pro community will shy away from them.

          And although I take my modifiers with me when I travel renting modifiers in different cities has been very difficult with the PCB mounts. Very few rental houses stock modifiers that use PCB’s mount.

    • Mark Kitaoka 3 years ago

      If I was starting from scratch yes I would purchase the AD600 over an Einstein.

  29. Seamless Media 3 years ago

    Does anyone know the exact inner/outer diameter measurement in mm for the Flashpoint version 7″ reflector included in the kit? Mine is on it’s way, but looking to order a set of grids off ebay. Is the inner diameter 170mm? Thanks!

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 3 years ago

      Hi Seamless,

      I get 169mm inner diameter.

  30. Mark Kitaoka 3 years ago

    Although his post had NOTHING to do with Godox, it presents some very interesting questions all of us should ask when purchasing lighting gear. I’m sorry Flashhavoc if I’m offending you, but I think Karl’s post is something people should ask themselves about their own lighting needs.

  31. Colin Anderson 3 years ago

    I have the 360 ttl. I am now considering ordering the 600ttl. Does anyone know whether the Godox version of the 600 is compatible with the accessories for the 360? I assume if not, I can get an adapter ring that will at least allow me to use my elinchrom maxilite with the 600, in which case I would probably get the 600b and a bowers to elinchrom adapter ring.

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 3 years ago

      Hi Colin,

      No the AD360 mount is a lot smaller and different style than the new Godox mount for their version of the AD600.

      As you mention, the Bowens mount AD600B/BM would be the best option, with a Bowen’s to Elinchrom adapter.

  32. Andy 3 years ago

    To trigger AD600 wirelessly, I will need X1-C (i use Canon). As i understand, its radio trigger system is not compatible to Canon RT system? In that case, do i need some sort of Godox trigger to integrate with Canon 600ex-rt or YN600ex-rt?


    • Ulysses 3 years ago

      There’s always the X1R-C, which is the X1 receiver for Canon. You would load your Canon flash into that receiver’s shoe. I believe that would work by integrating your existing Canon flashes into the X Series system. You could then control your Canon flashes as easily as you control your AD600.

  33. Tim Kamppinen 3 years ago

    Anyone know if the AC adapter is still in the works? Haven’t seen it anywhere or heard any updates on when it might be out. Original article was saying March but that has come and gone.

  34. Charlie 3 years ago

    Two quick questions. Does anyone know of a speedring i can use so I can use my Buff softboxes with a Bowens mount? and does the ad600 hold the power setting it achieves in TTL mode if I then switch it to manual mode? Thanks?

  35. Charlie Fara 3 years ago

    Thanks Tim! I just ordered the package deal from Adorama with the trigger and remote head but it’s on back order!

  36. Pedro Heshike 3 years ago

    Hi all, does anyone already got the Godox AD-H1200 1200W Flash Head….I know that it combine two AD600 unit to get the full 1200 watts…what I am trying to understand who this will work if I have one TTL and one Manual AD600……the TLL will still work or do i have to have 2 TTL units…also if I only have two manual units I guest in one I will put one at full power and the other one I can change the power using the X1-N…..if anyone have any more details I will appreciate it

  37. Mark Kitaoka 3 years ago

    Today I received a Flashpoint Xplor 600 TTL from Adorama to evaluate. I will be doing a full test of the unit and be posting my results on my blog. Right now I will say that it’s very nice to receive a case, 7″ cone modifier and diffusor with the unit. More to come. My plan is to use it in a commercial shoot later this week and then a ballet conceptual shoot in Dallas later this month. Ironically it will be with some of the same ballerinas I shot with the Flashpoint Rovelight last year…..

    • Ulysses 3 years ago

      Mark, what made you decide to go for the Adorama Xplor TTL after first purchasing your earlier AD600 full-manual flash? Do you see an application for TTL in your dance work?

      And you’re right… Adorama definitely seems to put a nice package of gear together, including a case.

      I’m definitely looking forward to your collaboration gain with the dancers. They’re amazing, and combined with your skills behind the camera, I’m sure the results will be incredible. Please let us know when you have something to show from those sessions — especially the ballet conceptual shoot. Shoot, actually I want to see BOTH shoots. 🙂

      • Mark Kitaoka 3 years ago

        Ulysses, I did NOT order one from them, they sent me one to evaluate. I’m not a TTL guy, but am happy to do my own comparison of the TTL version to the manual ones I have. My review will be forthcoming.

  38. Charlie 3 years ago

    Do you guys still think its wise to purchase the AD360ii t use along with the ad600, or just buy the AD600 units if you were sarting to build a system with Godox equipment?

    • Tim Kamppinen 3 years ago

      After getting my AD600 and testing it to make sure I wanted to stick with Godox (already had 3 TT685 flashes) I decided to get a 360II as well, instead of another AD600. For me it makes sense because the 360 is smaller and lighter which means I can fit it in my bag and always have it with me at weddings, whereas the 600 will stay in the car unless I know I’m going to need the extra stop of light. I can also use the 360 on-camera for a very powerful bounce flash in venues that have black or extremely high ceilings, which is a big plus for me. For portrait sessions where I have more time to lug equipment the AD600 will be my go-to main light, with the 360 as a back up or if I need a second powerful light for some reason. For a simple rim light I can get away with a zoomed 685 most of the time.

      If you’re not shooting weddings and have the time and energy to deal with multiple AD600’s as well as sandbags, etc. that go along with that, it might make more sense to just stick with those units. There is a color temp difference between the two which might matter depending on how you are mixing them. The AD360II is about 600K cooler than the AD600 according to my testing with a grey card. It also makes things simpler to know that when you’re looking at the power levels on the X1 that they are equivalent.

      • Thomas Geist 3 years ago

        Tim, this shows very well that everybody’s preferences are different.

        I for instance pretty quickly got over the AD360’s many individual parts. I hated the hassle and sold them.

        I will stick with V850 as long as their power is sufficient and then switch to AD600 if really needed, swallowing their weight and all.

        I personally am completely over any external batteries, cables etc.

        • Author
          Flash Havoc 3 years ago

          Thomas, don’t worry, you’re not the only one. Almost every day I get emails and messages asking which one to choose, when the light those people are really after is an AD360B / AD360BM.

          Adorama have got that message, now its a matter of them hopefully getting the light on Godox’s agenda.

          • Thomas Geist 3 years ago

            An AD360B would make sense to me if it was smaller or – most important- lighter than the AD600.

            Otherwise I’ll be totally fine with the 600. You can always bring power down (ND gels) but never up if you’re at the strobe’s max. 🙂

            • Tim Kamppinen 3 years ago

              My biggest complaint about the original 360 was juggling all the triggers. FT-16 to remotely control power, along with the Cells II if I wanted to do HSS, and then having to attach a Radiopopper receiver if I wanted to work alongside my speedlights… way to much hassle. Having the receiver and HSS built in to the unit fixes like 90% of what I hated about the first version. Now I just have the head, battery, and cable to deal with, and I picked up the godox clamp which makes the battery pretty easy to manage. I leave the cable connected to the battery and it’s quick to plug into the head.

              That said, a “360B” at about half the size and weight of the AD600 would be awesome. I don’t know if that’s possible, but I’d buy it in a heartbeat. For now the 360II will work when I need light and portable.

              • Ulysses 3 years ago

                Thomas and I have commiserated extensively about the very things he enumerated as wearing. I found myself losing a lot of my own initial love for the original CL-360. Even though I don’t use HSS very often, I do need it on occasion, and it was a real pain to remember to pull the Cells II out with all the rest of the components for the system, only to realize in front of a large important family grouping that I was missing a piece to the system. So I resolved that I wouldn’t buy any more of them.

                But also like Tim, I’m happy-ER with the CheetahStand X Series (2.4 GHz radios) now that I no longer need the Cells II and now I don’t need to connect a USB dongle to the bare-bulb flash. It’s more tolerable even though I still have to connect a battery and cable to get the system to work.

                I also bought a CL-600X because I like having a full set of options, as well as the total simplicity that unit brings to the table. Can’t wait to put it to work this week.

  39. Colin Anderson 3 years ago

    Hi I wanted to update the firmware on my X1 CT trigger so downloaded the update, plugged I the trigger via USB and …….zilch. Get the Godox firmware updater to open and a message saying AtLibUsbdfu.dll not found
    any suggestions welcome.
    Using known good usb port and cable

  40. Thomas Geist 3 years ago

    This 7″ Flashpoint/Bowens mount reflector Adorama sells shows a slit so that an umbrella can be mounted: http://www.adorama.com/FASRSHOBG.html

    Can anybody verify if this is also the case for the standard 7″ reflector that comes with the XPLOR 600 with Bowens mount (Adorama’s Godox AD600B)?

    When using an umbrella with strobes the best case is a real “spill kill” umbrella reflector that
    a) has the needed hole/slit
    b) spreads the light just enough to cover larger umbrellas

    The Flashpoint StreakLight umbrella reflector is just that.

    I understand that there seems to be only one “spill kill” available for the Bowens ecosystem: the Bowens 120º reflector for “only” $70 … but a 7″ standard reflector with a hole/slit would be the next best thing.

    What are our options?

    • Tim Kamppinen 3 years ago

      Yes, the XPLOR reflector has a slot for the umbrella to go through.

  41. Ole Sollie 3 years ago

    I had that same issue!

    I had to start the PC with advanced boot options and allow for unsigned drivers to be installed.
    Then I could do the installation again of the software and it worked perfectly.

    Found a video for the full process.

    Really easy when you just follow this!

    The X1T really heightens the experience when working with manual flashes.
    Running my AD600B and AD360(old one) with it and it works perfectly.
    Now I just need to get outside and do some shoots on site instead of bothering my own zoo of cats and dogs at home. 🙂
    The X1T is my first venture into controlling flashes directly from this unit and it feels like I have a lot to learn and understand, but it feels great so far.

    • Colin Anderson 3 years ago

      Thanks Ole. I am away from home this week but will give this a try as soon as I am home. Looks good.

  42. Will Pursell 3 years ago

    Of course I waited too long to order from Adorama now they are on backorder. Does anyone know if any other sellers anywhere have the updated final version of the strobe in ttl? I’m not completely sure exactly what adorama changed.

    • Mike 3 years ago

      There was talk of a new flash tube but the images on their site are standard tube
      There was talk of a new reflector but nothing special shown on their site
      Case is quite nice

      Firmware updates are by Godox so would love to hear what else they may have changed


  43. daemorhedron 3 years ago

    I’m curious the best way to order these in Canada?

  44. Charlie 3 years ago

    Believe it or not, I ordered ad360ll and the companysent me a ad600bm instead. I am surpried at how small it seems and its also more compact than the Rovelight. I think Ill keepthis and not get the AD360. Dumb question, do I charge the battery attached or off the light?

    • Ulysses 3 years ago

      Charlie, I always take my battery off the AD600 to charge it. It’ll prevent me from ever accidentally turning on and running the light while charging — a no-no.

  45. Chsrlie 3 years ago

    Awesome, thanks Ulysses! That’s how I did it. Was just concerned because thr contacts appear really exposed with it off the strobe.

  46. mike weeks 3 years ago

    Not seen any details about the AC adapter that was listed when first announced and secondly no details about the flash tube for the H1200 Remote Head

  47. Mark Kitaoka 3 years ago

    I have heard no news about the AC adapter.

  48. Rodolphe 3 years ago

    I asked them about the AC adapter.

    Here is their answer :

    “The AC adapter is not ready at present, and the finishing schedule is end of June, the retail price is not ready too”


    I bought 2 AD600BM, and I’ll do some test when I’ll recieve them on my facebook page 😉

    Thanks all people here to talk about it by the way !

  49. Charlie 3 years ago

    Hi guys, I finally got to try out my new Ad600 and AD600TTL this weekend outdoors and it was an exercise in frustration for me. Im pretty sure it was 90% human error, but I was baffled by a few things. For example the Adorama TTL version I have seemed to jump out of group A to group B on me a few times. I am also using the X1 Trasmitter. Could I have possibly caused that to happen with the transmitter? Also the TTL function didnt seem to work that well. It was not that accurate when i combined it with HSS. I also found the X1 transmitter to be a bit fiddly to work with.I was only using one light but had the transmitter set to group mode. Could that have been the problem? I had the same outdoor shoot last year and I only used an AD360 and it went much more smoothly. Any advice would be appreciated.

  50. Olav 3 years ago

    I am using a Godox AD-600B (TTL version) with the H600B external flash head. I tend to lose the TTL function. Manual works fine, even HSS in manual. But no TTL… Is anyone having this problem too? (note: I upgraded the transmitter (X1Nikon) to firmware version 15. First I thought the problem was the firmware upgrade. But I have also another X1 transmitter, running version 14. The problem of no TTL or needed heavy correction (-3 EV to get a decent exposure). When I disconnect the external head and connect the flash tube directly to the Godox AD600B, it works fine with TTL.

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