GODOX AD600B / XPLOR 600 – Strobe Announced

XPLOR 600 TTL / AD600B


Godox have announced the AD600 Witstro, an all in one 600WS Lithium-ion powered TTL and HSS enabled portable strobe, with Canon, Nikon. Sony, Fuji, and M4/3, compatible 2.4GHz radio receiver units built inside.

The AD600B can be controlled with full TTL, HSS, and Remote Manual power control via the 2.4GHz Godox X1 transmitter units, or master speedlite units like the V860II,  TT685, and TT350 speedlites.

Both TTL, and Manual / HSS, versions of the AD600 are available, though in the USA the TTL version is only available exclusively from Adorama under the Flashpoint XPLOR 600 TTL branding.



XPLOR 600 TTL / AD600B





  • Powerful 600Ws
  • Fan Cooled
  • 10W LED Modelling Light (Adjustable)
  • Optional Remote Head (600Ws & 1200Ws Options)
  • Bowens S-type Mount
  • Built in (removable) 11.1V / 8700mAh Lithium-ion Battery
  • Up to 500 Full Power Pops Per Battery Charge
  • 0.01 – 2.5 Seconds Recycle Time
  • Flash Modes – TTL / M / Multi
  • HSS to 1/8000th
  • Second Curtain Sync
  • FEC / FEB – 1/3rd Increments (±3 Stops)
  • FEL (Flash Exposure Lock)
  • Manual Flash – 1/256 – 1/1 Output (1/3rd Increments)
  • Godox 2.4GHz X Radio System
  • Canon, Nikon. Sony, Fuji, M4/3, Radio Slave Modes (Auto Switching)
  • Range – 100m + with X1 as Transmitter
  • Groups – A / B / C / D / E
  • 32 Channels
  • Supports Legacy Godox FT-16 Remote Manual Trigger System
  • Supports Godox XT-16 / XT32 Remote Manual Trigger System
  • Canon & Nikon Optic Wireless Slave Modes
  • Groups – A / B / C
  • 4 Channels
  • S1 & S2 Optic Slave Modes
  • Flash Duration – 1/220s-1/10000s
  • Large Dot Matrix LCD Display
  • Custom Functions
  • Auto Memory Function
  • Micro USB Port for Firmware Upgrades
  • USB Communication Port (For FTR-16 & XTR-16 Receivers)
  • 3.5mm Sync Port



XPLOR 600 / AD600B


The AD600B also provide the option of a lightweight remote head, making the strobe exceptionally versatile.

A soft case and shoulder strap then provide support for the strobe.

The remote heads will be available in both Bowens and Godox mounts, and in 600Ws and 1200Ws versions – AD-H600B / AD-H1200B, and AD-H600 / AD-H1200.

To achieve the 1200Ws output two strobes will be attached to the one 1200Ws head via a 2 into 1 adapter cable.


Godox AD-H600


The remote head is enabled via a cord which plugs into the strobe flash tube socket, acting as an extension cord between the strobe and remote flash tube.


Godox AD-H600


The AD600B’s removable 11.1V / 8700mAh Lithium-ion battery provides a health 500 full power flashes from one charge.

And the complete strobe in the cordless configuration weighs approximately 2.9kg.


Godox AD600B




Wireless slave mode *Radio transmission mode (compatible with Canon, Nikon. Sony, Fuji, & M4/3)*Optical transmission mode (compatible with Nikon & Canon)
Flash mode Local M/Multi
2.4G slave mode TTL/ M/Multi
Optic slave mode TTL/ M/Multi
Slave unit compatible camera Nikon  i-TTL/M/RTP flash(master unit uses TTL wireless flash trigger X1N etc)Canon EOS E-TTL II/M/Multiflash(master unit uses TTL wireless flash trigger  X1C etc)
GN ( 1/1) 87 (m ISO 100, with AD-R7 standard reflector)
Flash duration 1/220s-1/10000s
Power control 9 steps:1/256~1/1
Multi flash √(times:100 times;frequency:100)
Flash exposure compensation  (FEC) manual,FEB:±3 stops in 1/3 increments
Flash sync HSS(1/8000s),first curtain sync,second curtain sync
Flash delay 0.1~10s
Modeling lamp(LED) 10W
Optic slave flash S1/S2
Screen Dot matrix LCD screen
WIRELESS(Optic and 2.4G
Wireless flash function slave,off
Controllable slave groups 5 groups:A, B, C, D, E
Distance Optic indoor:12~15m/39.4~49.2 feet outdoor:8~10m/26.2~32.8 feet
2.4G 80m
Channel Optic 4 groups:1, 2, 3, 4
2.4G 32 groups:1~32
Power Lithium(11.1V/8700mAH)
Full power flash times 500 times
Recycling time 0.01s-2.5s
Power status
Power saving Power off automatically after 1 hour’s none operation
Triggering mode 3.5mm port,PC port,wireless remote port
Color temperature 5600±200k
Size 220*245*125mm (flash tube & reflector not included)
Weight  2.66Kg (flash tube & reflector not included) Aprox. 2.9KG total





There are also Godox mount versions of the strobe available, so 4 versions in total –

Bowens Mount TTL – AD600B
Bowens Mount Manual – AD600BM

Godox Mount TTL – AD600
Godox Mount Manual – AD600M

NOTE – the Godox mount remote heads will not attach to the Bowens mount strobes, and vice versa.





The Godox AD600B are priced from $749 for the TTL version, and $549 for the Manual version.

In the USA the TTL version is only available exclusively from Adorama under the Flashpoint XPLOR 600 TTL branding.

XPLOR 600 TTL – Adorama, Amazon, Ebay
GODOX AD600B – AmazonUKEbay

XPLOR 600 HSS – Adorama, AmazonEbay
GODOX AD600BM – AmazonUKEbay


Godox – Website


  1. Mark Kitaoka 4 years ago

    I own three separate brands of the Godox remote head by Godox, CheetahStand and Adorama. I have had the LED modeling light fail on all three brands. I returned mine to Cheetahstand and they REPAIRED the LED on both units. Adorama replaced the one which failed. I’m out of luck with my Godox unit because I purchased it early off of eBay. In all but the XPLOR unit I was NOT using the now included plastic ring to secure the head to the main unit. But the head’s LED did fail with the XPLOR unit even using the plastic retaining ring. I’ve returned the unit to Adorama so they can determine what may have happened. I simply use the modeling light to obtain focus and don’t really use it to determine my lighting angles.

  2. Charlie 4 years ago

    guys my error 9 code was all my fault. I used the wrong firmware. I reinstalled the original firmware and all is well.

    • Juan Jaramillo 4 years ago

      I got the same problem. How did you install the original firmware?

  3. Adam Chandler 4 years ago

    One of the clunkiest/least attractive designs I’ve seen but seems to be a lot of bang for the buck. I’m curious why the put the controls on the side of the light instead of the back…seems like this could be problematic in some situations where the light is near a wall or something restricting access.

    • Ulysses 4 years ago

      It looks quite utilitarian, but it works well because it’s so very simple. Keep in mind that while the strobe has a control panel on the side, you control most necessary features via the Godox remotes (X1T or XT16 or XT32).

    • Mark Kitaoka 4 years ago

      I personally find having the LCD readout on the side much better for my workflow. I’ve used Profoto, Elinchrom, Priolite, Einsteins, etc which all have the readout on the back. I always have my strobes at elevation with the back facing up, the modifier down toward the talent. So the display is almost always hidden from my view. Even though I control my strobes from a remote I sometimes like to check them on the unit and having the Godox units on the side is brilliant for my work.

    • bob 4 years ago

      People have been putting controls on the sides for years, putting on the rear end that normally points up means less chance to see it, i prefer the clip on rear battery system and really “least attractive designs” – not in my books

    • Jim Setzer 4 years ago

      I wasn’t sure about the side panel mounted controls myself, but after using these for 6 months, I like the side mounted controls. Besides, as Ulysses points out, you do most of the controlling from the trigger. I find I don’t have to go back to the strobe body to confirm.

  4. Thien 4 years ago

    Amazon has the Flashpoint Xplor 600 TTL with R2 trigger (AD600B + X1 Trigger) for $550 ($200 OFF). No CA Tax. Just got a spare as back up/two light setup.

  5. Andy 4 years ago

    OMG, Adorama just low price of XPLOR 600 TTL to $549.95.
    I bought the same unit less than 3 months ago for $749.95 🙁 Why Adorama discounts so much and so late? I wish I could delay the purchase until now.

  6. Thomas Geist 4 years ago

    AD600B USB connection problems.

    My Flashpoint version of the AD600B (firmware 2.2) does not seem to connect to USB for a firmware upgrade.

    I have it connected to Windows 10 with Godox G1 running in vmware on macOS. I have successfully upgraded many of my Godox/Flashpoint flashes and radios this way.

    With the AD600B however there seems to be no USB connection established. When I plug the cable into the strobe (AD600B turned on or off makes no difference), I never get the usual dialog vmware to let me decide whether USB will be connected to Windows or to macOS.

    I don’t even think this is a problem with macOS or vmware. More with the USB connection in general.

    Has anybody had an issue like this?

    • Randell John 4 years ago

      I had the same problem yesterday trying to update to Ver 2.3
      I know this sounds obvious, but if you haven’t already – try a different cable.
      I used one cable to update all my TX and RX units with no problems, but for some reason my laptop wouldn’t connect to my AD600B using the same cable.
      When I switched to a different USB cable, the strobe connected immediately.

      • Thomas Geist 4 years ago

        Great recommendation (how could I miss that?)!

        Unfortunately it didn’t help. Tried three different cables in various USB ports, AD600B off or on – no luck. 🙁

        • Author
          Flash Havoc 4 years ago

          Thomas you definitely don’t want the strobe switched ON.

          If you didn’t know, first you need to turn the strobe off, remove the battery from the strobe, and then hold the ON button for a few seconds until you see all the power drain out of the strobes LCD display. Then you can connect it to the computer.

          • Thomas Geist 4 years ago

            Thank you, I didn’t know that!

            I did as you explained and now the connection dialog (windows/Macintosh) appeared.

            HOWEVER, unfortunately I now get the message “AD600 Connect failed.” in red in the G1 application.

            I hope I didn’t kill anything in the strobe by my earlier connection attempts …

            • Thomas Geist 4 years ago

              Ok, I solved it!

              I installed vmware on another computer (my laptop) and ran the firmware upgrade there.
              Worked fine.

              Thank you all who chimed in to help! 🙂

  7. Author
    Flash Havoc 4 years ago

    Only 2 hours left to get the XPLOR 600 TTL at $549.95 (with free transmitter).

    • Ryan Beuke 4 years ago

      Weird i bought mine but it didn’t show a free transmitter with the package in the description so i bought one separately did i miss something?

      • Ken Tan 4 years ago

        I called Adorama, explained that the website updated in the afternoon and offered the receiver free, and just like that, they sent a free receiver.

  8. tony 4 years ago

    is this ad600 can work with Pocketwizard ?

    • Thomas Geist 4 years ago

      It can if you just want to trigger it – no TTL, no HSS, no power control. You will just need a 2.5 mm mini plug cable to connect any PocketWizard receiver or transceiver to the strobe.

      • tony 4 years ago

        thanks thomas
        If i want HSS and im already connect cable with pocketwizard receiver.
        Thats mean its doesnt work with ad600 isnt it ?

        • Thomas Geist 4 years ago

          No, HSS will not work with a simple cable connection.

          Considering how cheap they are, why don’t you just bey a X1 transmitter for your camera?

  9. Ken Tan 4 years ago

    Hey guys, just wondering if anyone else noticed that HSS is automatically enabled when you are at 1/250 on a Nikon D810? The D810 should sync up to 1/250 without going into HSS, but It seems that it’s only able to go up to 1/200 without going into HSS. What I noticed is that the color is also significantly different between regular (green tint) and HSS (magenta tint). Also noteworthy is that TTL at 1/250 is usually about 1/3 underexposed, but is correctly exposed again once you’re above or at 1/320. I wonder if this is a firmware (v2.3) issue or if it’s just the way it is.

    • Ulysses 4 years ago

      Ken, that’s just the way it is, on just about all the points you mentioned. On the positive side, while there is some slight color shift when going from normal to HSS speeds, at least on those two sides of the fence the color remains relatively stable from what I’ve seen. Whether or not they can fix this in firmware remains to be seen. But that would seem unlikely, if other manufacturers provide any indication. (Phottix never fixed their rather extreme color issues.)

      • Ken Tan 4 years ago

        Thanks for confirming Ulysses! Interesting behavior but at least predictable. So basically, try not to use at 1/250 if possible because it inherits the worst characteristics from the unit. Now I’m paranoid about the ad360II-N, because that unit doesn’t even tell you when it’s in HSS unlike the ad360 Version I which is at 1/250. It’s interesting that the ad360 can do 1/250, while the ad600 only 1/200…

        • Ulysses 4 years ago

          Yes, I wish it was otherwise, particularly with it kicking into HSS at 1/250 rather than at 1/320. But because it drops its power level slightly at that threshold, I simply avoid those shutter speeds (it’s easy enough). At least it’s easily manageable.

  10. Mario 4 years ago

    One of the most critizised detail on the Godox AD600 is its stand tilt locking handle that scratches the housing.

    Simple solution: Buying a Elinchrom locking handle designed for D-Lite it (caution: NOT those fitting D-Lite RX, only the older it versions used them!!).

    They leave a gap between flash housing and handle, fits nicely and is a cheap thing:


  11. Mark Kitaoka 4 years ago

    In the States Cheetahstand offers a similar handle which I have purchased:

  12. Rob Nisters 4 years ago

    I was thinking of heating that handle with a heatgun and deforming it so it won’t touch the flash body.
    Haven’t done it, though because it doesn’t annoy me that much

    • Ken Tan 3 years ago

      It’s worth noting that the handle is spring loaded, and as such, you can pull it away from the body which releases tension on the tightening mechanism. Essentially, it’s like a manual ratchet. As I tighten, and as the handle gets near the body, I pull the handle outwards, swing the arm counterclockwise towards the other side of the strobe, let the spring pull the handle back and continue tightening.

  13. Chris Boar 4 years ago

    Can anyone confirm recycle time in HSS mode at full power? I’ve currently got the little AD360’s and they can take 5-10 sec to recycle in HSS mode/full power.

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 4 years ago

      Hi Chris,

      Do you have the 2 into 1 cord for your AD360 battery pack? That halves the recycle time.

      The AD600 is around 2.4 – 2.5 seconds at full power. Its the same time in or out of HSS mode at full power.

      • Chris Boar 4 years ago

        Yep I do have the 2-1 cord. I need to do some testing, wondering if i’ve for a duff cord/battery. Seems to take forever to recharge sometimes in HSS mode.

        • Author
          Flash Havoc 4 years ago

          Ok thanks. Something must be wrong then. You could try removing the 2 into 1 and see if there is any difference.

          Maybe your battery is getting tired.

          • Chris Boar 4 years ago

            Looks like I had a bad connection. Just reseated Y-cables and I’m getting about a 2 sec recycle time on full power in HSS mode. Duh…….

            • Author
              Flash Havoc 4 years ago

              Ok thanks Chris. At least you got the recycle time back.

              I’ve harassed Godox for a long time now to join the 2 ports inside the pack with a switch, instead of using that cumbersome 2 into 1 cord work around. After 3+ years its getting a bit silly.

  14. junio 4 years ago

    Hello to all.
    Someone has happened to break a connector on the head AD H600?
    I have broken one of the 5 connectors and do not know how you can repair.
    Tank you.

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 4 years ago

      Hi Junio,

      You only need 3 of the 5 connectors, so you may be able to take the head apart an swap one over.

      Was it a side connector or the bottom one?

      • junio 4 years ago

        Unfortunately the left side. The plug can be opened? I could fix it.

        • Author
          Flash Havoc 4 years ago

          Ok sorry, I though you were referring to the female sockets in the remote head.

          I don’t know if you can dissemble the plug unfortunately.

          • junio 4 years ago

            Ok, thank you very much.
            maybe someone knows it, at Adorama. Unfortunately in Italy there is no assistance Godox.

  15. Juan Jaramillo 4 years ago

    Guys, I need help. Just got my AD600BM yesterday and did an upgrade from 1.5 to 2.2. Updater is erasing and installing but I get the E9 error. Tried to install it several times and even when back to 2.2 but nothing. Holding on/off for 3 secs does nothing.

    I am using windows Vista corp.

    • Christoph 4 years ago

      Are you sure about this: Installing version 2.2 on the AD600BM? The latest version for the AD600BM would be 1.6, I think you are trying to install the TTL firmware.

      • Juan Jaramillo 4 years ago

        Can you please provide the link for the 1.6 version? on godox website there is a 2.3

        • Christoph 4 years ago

          No, just have a closer look at the Godox downloads site again. 😉

      • Juan Jaramillo 4 years ago

        OMG, thank you. I found it and it worked. :))))))))

        • Christoph 4 years ago

          Great, you’re welcome!

  16. Benson 4 years ago

    Hi, guys. Does an AD600B provide TTL lock function as a B1 does? With a B1, I can find proper flash power with ease. After shooting a TTL test shot, I can change to Manual mode and adjust the power from the TTL tested value. I heard an Interfit s1 has TTL lock also, although it is unable to use it with a remote trigger. How about AD600B? Or Jinbei HD610, if anyone know? Thx.

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 4 years ago

      Hi Benson,

      The AD600B and HD610 do not have TTL lock at this stage.

      I’m not aware that the Interfit S1 has it either unfortunately (though I could be wrong).

      Hopefully its something that will become more available in time, though I don’t know how hard it is to engineer.

      This is a concept I was suggesting years ago and refereed to as hybrid TTL.

      • Benson 4 years ago

        FH: Hybrid TTL, sounds nice. I like it has a specific name. I believe hybrid TTL is one of the most important function to make TTL useful in real life. Ordinary TTL is hard to rely on 100%, especially when subjects move. Manual mode takes time to find exact exposure. Hybrid TTL is the fastest and reliable way to find correct exposure. I wonder why manufactures pay more attention on the function.

        Mike: Thanks but I guess Nikon flash lock is a bit different from Hybrid TTL.

    • Mike 4 years ago

      Not sure how Canon does it but Nikon has flash lock built in


  17. Chester 4 years ago

    Hello guys,
    have anyone experienced the issue with battery info display on the godox ad600?
    I got mine 2 weeks ago, recently doing a few days of shooting, the battery info display always shows at full, then today it suddenly just drop to zero. this is freaking me out because i have no ideas how many percent (bar) is left.
    Thanks in advanced.

    • Mark Kitaoka 4 years ago

      My strobe battery indicators work and I gauge their accuracy by how many bars are on the charger when I plug them in to charge the units. You may have a faulty unit.

    • Seamless Media 4 years ago

      Make sure you store the battery apart from the strobe when not in use, I and a few others have experienced battery drain over 2-3 weeks of non use, paired with charge indicator anomalies like you describe. Hope this helps!

      • Chester 4 years ago

        Thank you Seamless Media,
        i’ll try that.
        i just upgrade the firmware, i’ll go out for shot this afternoon and i’ll see if it fixes too.
        @Mark: I’ll bring it to the store if the problem persists.

        • Chester 3 years ago

          i’ve updated the firmware, removed the battery while not in use. after shooting 2 session, the battery indicator still show full.
          i’m stuck.

  18. Randell John 3 years ago

    H600B Remote Head Problem.
    I’ve been plagued by mis-fires using the H600B Remote Head. I’ve replaced one unit already, but the replacement has started behaving as the first one.
    Basically the head will fire for 5 or 6 shots and then stop firing. It won’t even fire if I press the test button on the AD600B.
    I have never used the modelling light when using the remote head, but today I found out that switching the modelling light on cures the misfiring problem, and the H600B fires every time without a hitch.
    It’s a very strange problem and I can only put it down to some sort of voltage drop or tracking within the AD600B.
    I’ve had no problems with the AD600B at all and it works perfectly without the remote head fitted.
    So if anyone starts having problems with misfires while on a job, just try switching on the modelling light. It may fix the problem for you.

  19. Benson 3 years ago

    I wonder if I can combine Canon Flash and AD600. Let’s say, I put a X1-c on the camera with a ST-E3-RT on X1-c. The X1-c will fully control AD600 TTL HSS. And I guess the ST-E3-RT on the X1-c can control 600ex-rt flashes on triggering TTL and HSS, if only the signals between the two triggers can pass thru. Am I writing a novel? Can anybody tell me the reality? Thanks.

    • Ulysses 3 years ago

      Wanting to include your existing 600EX-RT with your Godox lights is a great idea. But you might be making it more complicated than you need to do.

      One recommendation is to buy an X1R-C which is an X1 receiver for Canon. Place your 600EX-RT into the hot shoe of this receiver. Now you can control your 600EX-RT along with your AD600 from the X1T-C transmitter in the hot shoe of your camera. You should have TTL as well as HSS if you want them.

      • Jim Setzer 3 years ago

        Spot on, Ulysses. As well as remote zoom control sync to your lens. At least I know this is the case for the Nikon versions of the X1-T(N) with X1-R(N) connected to 3rd party (Yongnuo and Nissin) Nikon compatible speed lights.

    • Thomas Geist 3 years ago

      Benson, TTL and HSS won’t work that way. Tried it, failed.
      Do as Ulysses says. That’s the smarter solution and it won’t cost you much.

  20. Joe 3 years ago

    Hey guys,
    I just received 2 AD600BM units. One is working great, but the other isn’t firing and giving me the E3 code (voltage on two outlets of the flash tube is too high) right out of the box. Is there anything I can do on my end to fix this or do I have to send it in?

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 3 years ago

      Hi Joe,

      I’m not familiar with that issue. You could try checking with the Flashpoint guys (brands@adorama.com) though it sounds like you would need to replace the flash.

  21. andy 3 years ago

    I hope that Godox produce a right angle cable for the back of the remote head.

    Having a cable that comes straight out always puts pressure on the socket and cable.

    I’m confident that Godox will improve the design.

  22. Jim Setzer 3 years ago

    After shooting with these for 6 months, I made a follow-up Youtube review video and posted it today. Take a look: https://youtu.be/aDUGJDaKRd4 and let me know what you think.



  23. Didier 3 years ago

    Hello there,

    My Godox AD600 doesn’t auto power off after 1 hour of idle state.
    Is it the same for you?
    Sleep parameter is set to 1 hour (nok)
    Light parameter is set to 12s (ok)

    Thanks for your feedback,

  24. Steve 3 years ago

    Recently I got the flashpoint XPLOR 600 with the Canon R2 transmitter. when i make changes in M mode , the light LCD reflects the change, power is adjusted and fires. However, if I use TTL with the same composition and camera manual settings(F stop, shutter, ISO) . I adjust TTL -1, -2 ,3 etc… The exposure/histogram does not change and the LCD on the light does NOT reflect what is set on the transmitter. First, should the Light LCD match what is set on transmitter(TTL) like it does in manual mode? Am I missing a setting somewhere ?

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 3 years ago

      Hi Steve,

      The FEC set on the transmitter is not displayed on the strobes LCD like manual power setting are, though they should still change the exposures.

      You wouldn’t be the person on the POTN forum describing this issue? If not that person is seeing the same issue, and with 3 XPLOR 600 strobes, so that’s bound to be an issue at the transmitter end then.

      If you are different people it could suggest an issue with the transmitters.

      Does changing FEC on the camera rather than the transmitter have any effect on the exposures?

      • Steve 3 years ago

        No that is not me. Looks like he is having the same type of issue as me though.

        I set the transmitter to FEC = 0 . I adjusted the FEC on the camera instead. The exposures are changing. So it looks like at this setting of 0 , the transmitter is just passing the camera’s calculation ? Seems logical.

        • Author
          Flash Havoc 3 years ago

          Ok thanks Steve.

          Somethings still not right though, as FEC set directly on the transmitter should be having an effect on the exposure as well.

  25. Didier 3 years ago


    Some days ago I filled my registration on the forum but I didn’t receive any feedback.
    Can you add me in your list of users.
    I would like some help regarding the Godox AD600 auto power off feature that doesn’t work on my unit and on the upgrade to V2.3 firmware which I am not able to perform due to connection problem 🙁

    Thank you,

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 3 years ago

      Hi Didier,

      Sorry I couldn’t find your application. The forum gets a lot of spam applications so its very difficult to find the real people. I’m probably going to have to lock the forum until I have time to possibly move it to a better platform.

      Have you tried different USB cords with the AD600?

      • Didier 3 years ago

        The device manager says unknown device (code 43) which means the device is “hung” or a faulty cable.
        Yes I tried two different USB cables with no luck.
        It would be great if someone could paste here the link to a usb cable (on amazon) that works with the AD600 unit.

        • Author
          Flash Havoc 3 years ago

          I’m not sure if its much help, though one person mentioned purchasing a Belkin USB cord worked for them. There are number of different Belkin cords version on Amazon though.

          You may even possibly need to try a different computer as well.

  26. Mark Kitaoka 3 years ago

    I have updated my recent experiences with these units.

    • Jesse Patterson 3 years ago

      Hi Mark! Have you had a chance to compare the 1200 Head with a single XPLOR 600? I purchased two XPLOR 600s and a 1200 Head. When compared with a single head at full power, the 1200 head is more powerful however, it doesn’t look like it’s a full stop more powerful in HSS. Maybe closer to 1/3 more powerful in HSS.

      When not using HSS, the 1200 Head at full power seems like it’s only 2/3 more powerful than one XPLOR 600 by itself.

      The crazy part is when shooting the 1200 Head in either 1/2 power with both XPLORs attached or full power with one XPLOR attached, they both seem much less powerful than on XPLOR at full power by itself.

      Check the following link for samples:

      Please excuse the non-scientific photos plus the Christmas tree, lol. Flash, if you have any suggestions, let me know!

      • Author
        Flash Havoc 3 years ago

        Hi Jesse,

        I got similar results to you with the 1200Ws remote head.

        The thing is Flashpoint were originally working with Godox to try and improve the light output of the XPLOR 600. The result was just a new flash tube that produced around 0.2 stops more light than the original.

        Though that gain makes the 1200Ws head / tube look to provide 0.2 stops less advantage now over the XPLOR or 600Ws head.

        • Jesse Patterson 3 years ago

          Thanks Flash! I know it will perform when I need it to like Mark Kitaoka’s review however, I just wanted to see if it was normal since I haven’t seen anyone test the 1200ws like the 600ws.

          Also, if someone needs a protective cover for the 1200ws bulb, the Phottix Indra Front Cover suggested by Mark works perfectly! Just make sure to take the foam out of the inside first.

  27. Frankyvee 3 years ago

    Is it safe to flash firmware ver 2.3 on the AD600B TTL Model? Has anyone here flashed ver 2.3 successfully? From reading the change log it looks like v 2.3 fixes battery management. I wish Godox would explain exactly what battery problem it fixes.

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 3 years ago

      Hi Frenkyvee,

      Yes I have updated to V2.3, as have numerous other people.

      Some flashes were having issues with the battery level indicator not showing the correct reading, and I think even cutting off the flash due to this. The update was meant to help fix that issue.

      • Didier 3 years ago

        Which USB cable did you use? 🙂

        • Author
          Flash Havoc 3 years ago

          Hi Didier,

          Sorry I just use some generic USB cables I have from old card readers etc.

          I haven’t had any issues updating Godox firmware since the G1 program was released. I don’t want to rub it in, though its very fast and easy now.

          Did you have any more luck yet?

      • Frankyvee 3 years ago

        Thank you Flash Havoc.

        • Didier 3 years ago

          Can I also ask you which usb cable works for you?

          • Frankyvee 3 years ago

            I used a micro USB 2.0 (generic) no brand name cable.
            Firmware ver 2.3 flashed successfully no issues using the G1 program on a Windows 10 desktop.

      • Andy 3 years ago

        Adorama need to update firmware (only 2.2 exists) and instruction (only show version 1.6)

        Just downloaded from Godox website with latest firmware version

  28. Frankyvee 3 years ago

    Does anyone here know where I can go and register my Flashpoint Xplor 600B (AD600) strobe? I’m having a hard time finding exactly where to register for warranty purpose.

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 3 years ago

      Hi Frankyvee,

      I’m not sure about this, though if you contact brands@adorama.com they should be able to tell you the best way to go.

  29. robert 3 years ago

    Is this AD600 good for the studio and can you use the modeling lamp in soft box? It is labeled a outdoor light.

  30. Gil 3 years ago

    Bought the explor 600 when Adorama had that in November. Tested and it worked fine. Today I pulled it out and have the problem with the battery showing empty but charger showing differently as seen in the youtube video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GzZUOu6t37U . Anyone encounter this and know what the solution is?

  31. Stephen Roberts 3 years ago

    I cant get my AD600’s to fire when the X1N is set to TTL mode. They work fine in manual mode but not TTL. I’m using a Nikon D750. Any ideas?

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 3 years ago

      Hi Stephen,

      Possibly a sill question, though you do have the TTL version of the strobe, not just Remote Manual/HSS?

  32. Kevin 3 years ago


    I own 2 XPLORs and recently decided to purchase a USED one from Adorama. I had a really bad experience. The light was marked as E+ condition (2 Levels under brand new) and came with scratches on the LCD screen, scratches on the barrel, as well as a missing light bulb. Not the condition that was described in the purchase. Adorama needs to put pictures up of every used item they are selling. I called customer service on 2 occasions only for them to tell me that the bulb is on back order and was given no ETA on when the bulb will be in stock. I could not speak to anyone from their used department because that department does not accept phone calls. No one has reached out to me about my inconveniences.

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 3 years ago

      Hi Kevin,

      You can always contact the Flashpoint guys directly at brands@adorama.com, though in this case you may be best to speak to Helen Oster – helen@adorama.com

  33. Didier 3 years ago

    I have a new problem with my Godox system.
    I am trying to trigger my AD600 in the same time as triggering the shutter of my Nikon D750 in wireless remote with a X1R attached to it. The result is always a black frame.
    I don’t know how to deal with this, remote shutter is working well without flash.
    The same problem with a AD360.
    I didn’t have these problem with my Pixel King triggers.


    • Didier 3 years ago

      It is like the remote shutter introduces a delay and that the flash has finished when the shutter opens.
      In this case it would be great to add a delay for the triggering of the flash.
      The delay in the X1T interface is only to advance the trigger, it would be great to add negative values and to restrict the delay to the flash trigger only.

      • Author
        Flash Havoc 3 years ago

        Hi Didier,

        I don’t completely understand what you are trying to do there.

        Do you mean you are trying to trigger a second camera, from the first camera with transmitter attached to the hotshoe?

        Otherwise if its just one camera, then you need one set of transmitter and receiver for the shutter release, and another set (set to a different channel) for the flash triggering. The second transmitter is attached to the cameras hotshoe, to then fire the flashes in sync with the camera.

        • Didier 3 years ago

          Wow thank you so much !!! It’s working fine now !!!
          Yes it was for just for one camera and a flash. 🙂

          Both transmitters must be on different channels otherwhise the flash fires one time or don’t fire at all and there is a OFF on the display of the AD600 that can only be removed by changing its power from the X1T on top of the camera.

          By the way I often work with 2 cameras and thus two transmitters on the same channel, each one on the hotshoe of each camera and I sometimes have this OFF on the display. Could it be that I sometimes trigger both transmitters in the same time and that this is a kind of protection?

          • Author
            Flash Havoc 3 years ago

            Ok thanks Didier.

            I haven’t really noticed the “OFF” issue myself. Maybe that is the way the strobe reacts if receiving multiple transmitter signals at the same time. I’ll see if I can give it a try.

            • Didier 3 years ago

              Ok thanks!

              I just noticed that with 2 transmitters at different power, when changing of transmitter the first shot is always at the power of the previous transmitter, then for each other shots the power of the current transmitter is used.
              But I am not able to reproduce the OFF on the display in normal shooting even it sometimes/often happens 🙁

              But the OFF always appears when the same channel is used to trigger the camera shutter and the flash.

  34. Didier 3 years ago

    How stupid I am ! 🙂
    I was using the usb type A female socket instead of the micro usb socket on the AD600. I didn’t see there was a micro usb female socket. Hahaha…shame on me !!!!
    My AD600 is now in 2.3, no usb connection error anymore!

    Now if someone can try remove shutter and remote flash together that would be great!
    I just tried to play with the delay on the flash itself, it is by 0.01s till 30s but always a black frame, maybe the flash needs to be anticipated…. It would be great to have negative values on both the delay on the trigger and the flash itself.

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 3 years ago

      🙂 Thanks for letting us know, and at least you resoled the issue.

      I’ll have to remember to check that others are not making the same mistake.

  35. Ryan 3 years ago

    Hi All!
    Thanks to everyone for making this a good location for AD600 related info!

    Similar to “Randell John” and his previous posts, I have what seems to be the exact same problems with my Godox AD-H600B remote head. The remote head misfires on some shoots as regularly as every 6-10 shots!! Really FRUSTRATING!!

    I’ve done the troubleshooting to eliminate everything else..
    • Not the Canon camera/hotshoe (still misfires when using ‘Test’ button on transmitter and using the ‘Flash’ button on the actual AD600 with remote head attached).
    • Not the Godox X1T-C transmitter (several sets of different/new AA batteries and still misfires, misfires from ‘Flash’ button on actual AD600 with remote head attached, modelling lamp switches on and off just fine from transmitter).
    • Not the main Godox AD600BM unit itself (misfires with any way of triggering whilst AD-H600 remote head is attached, but with same bulb connected directly to the AD600BM and remote head removed = no misfires!).

    So, it’s definitely the AD-H600 remote head. Another thing I noticed, about every 20th or so misfire, it fires like a tiny 1/10th power flash, and with a really tinny high pitched sound, at a much lower volume than the standard powerful ‘pop’ sound that normally happens when it fires properly.

    I also noticed in my testing that the remote head seems to not have the misfire issues when the modelling lamp is on. And as above, modelling lamp switches on and off just fine from transmitter, even when flash won’t fire.

    Any advice out there besides just contacting the distributor? I’m in Sydney, Australia and bought my unit from Kayell, a well known distributor here. I’ll contact them in the morning, really hope I can swap it over, the main unit is too big and mainly heavy to use up high on a boom with a 120cm softbox without the remote head. So the rest is useless without it if I have to send it off.

    If for nothing else, I can at least be another person putting their hand up to state this issue, and imagine there’s many more, I found it so hard to find a place to even read or write about issues for these units, google is swamped with reviews of them, but no place to discuss issues but here..

    On a side note, I also agree with the ideas presented on the previous page, relating to getting Godox (or someone else) to make an adapter to extend the bulb (bulb spacer, or make a longer bulb, etc, etc?) to get the Godox AD600 bulbs to actually flash ‘further’ into the actual softbox/modifier space etc., instead of just bouncing around in the wasted few cms/inch or so of useless speedring collar space!! Such a waste of bulb surface area just bouncing around instead of being projected forwards or directly spreading out evenly/sideways into the softbox space!

    • Ryan 3 years ago

      Tested again later at night (after updating the X1T-C transmitter just in case), didn’t seem to misfire with AD-H600 remote head…
      Woke up this morning, and after testing all of the ways of triggering again, and making sure both ends of the remote head were definitely secure etc yet again, it was definitely misfiring again, both from the transmitter and the main body of the AD600BM. Similar to my shoot yesterday, misfiring 1/13 times on some people, and 1/8 times on others, so on average about 1/10 times.

      I rang Kayell and they’re happy to swap one over, and they have sold quite a few Godox units and not heard of any misfiring issues, so my one might have just been the unlucky one. Fingers crossed for the 2nd remote head, as I love the main unit and the system so far otherwise..

      Seems very rare so far, but strange that Randell John and I both had the EXACT same issue with the remote head, all the way down to the issue being temporarily quashed if you leave the modelling light on… curiouser and curiouser…

      Any update on your remote head unit/s Randell John? Which part of the world did you buy yours?

      • Ryan 3 years ago

        Anyone know of a good informative forum to chat about all things Godox/AD600 etc? I’d prefer not to flood this article with comments and discussion..

        • Ryan 3 years ago

          In the meantime, anyone had any experience with the ‘Glass Diffuser’ or whatever they’re calling it for the AD600’s.. ??

          The only places I can spot it now is at Ali Express or 1 Ebay seller, (but I thought I saw it at a few places before, like Amazon where people were commenting that it worked well, except you had to fit and cut the fiddly foam ring yourself and the original protective cap doesn’t fit back on with the glass diffuser in place):

          Ali Express

          • Author
            Flash Havoc 3 years ago

            I hadn’t actually seen those glass covers before. I would suspect the foam mounting system would be the main issue if the glass has some weight to it.

            It would be great if someone made some colored gel caps, preferably in a lightweight and durable plastic. Or a cap you could slide gel film into.

            Its nice to see some third party accessories emerging though.

      • Author
        Flash Havoc 3 years ago

        Hi Ryan,

        Let us know how you go with the new remote head. I haven’t heard of this being any great reoccurring issue, so hopefully its just a faulty remote head.

        If not it could be the strobe itself being faulty. Thats where the switch is for the remote modelling light, so I would wonder if that’s not possibly part of the issue.

        • Ryan 3 years ago

          Hi again Mark and everyone here at Flash Havoc,

          Just a quick update… After Kayell replaced the H600 remote head (for the Godox AD600), after the misfiring issues I was having, it seemed to work fine when tested briefly. Fast forward a few months now, and I hadn’t had any jobs where I needed that strobe for this whole time, and I had a shoot yesterday and tested the gear the day/night before to find that the misfiring issue was still there intermittently!! Aaarrggh! It was there straight away, but then seemed to be firing ‘normally’ again after getting the ball rolling again, and kept firing consistently after that in testing, so decided to not cancel the shoot and see how it went.. Went fine for the first while, only misfired a couple of times at the start which no-one else noticed… then it just plagued the WHOLE REST OF THE PHOTO SHOOT, was misfiring the WHOLE REST OF THE DAY… the clients definitely noticed then!

          At about 500 shots, a quick tally showed it had misfired 51 times, so an average of about 1/10 times, same average as before, seemed to be WAY more often in the shots after that, will check the other shots later..

          This time, the trick/workaround of leaving the modelling light ‘on’ while shooting which somehow previously (& mysteriously) prevented the strobe of the Godox AD600 from misfiring (as Randell John and myself had stated before), didn’t work as perfectly as the last time/s! It still seemed to help a little at one stage, but then not at others.

          I distinctly remembered looking up at the AD600 with the modelling light ON, and when firing the flash either by the Canon 6D camera shutter button, or by the ‘Test’ button on the Godox X1-Tc, not only was the flash not firing, but as well, this time, the MODELLING LIGHT WAS DIPPING OFF AND BACK ON as though the flash was still firing like it normally does, even though THE STROBE WASN’T EVEN FIRING !!

          I took a very basic iPhone vid of me even pressing the red Test button on the main Godox AD600 unit, and it still not firing, as before. Just to prove that it’s not isolated to the camera triggering or the Godox X1-Tc transmitting etc.

          Going to contact Kayell today to sort this out ASAP, this is not only unreliable, is making me look bad.

          Other notes..
          Most of this was shooting tethered, using Canon 6D connected to MacBook Pro and Capture One software. The problem seemed to be worse/more frequent when releasing the camera shutter from Capture One vs manually going up to the camera shutter button, but misfired intermittently from all methods at several stages through the day. The problem seemed to be happening less after a break when I then hand held the camera (still tethered to Capture One), and shot the last shots of the day sitting on the ground.

          • Ryan 3 years ago

            Also, as noted further below, I’m also having issues noticing a slight Green/Magenta cast between almost identical shots, exact same settings and environment, flash almost cancelling out any ambient light, etc.

            I know when I work on other peoples’ sets with Broncolor/Profoto lighting gear, they have NONE of these issues. No misfiring, no colour inconsistency issues!

            Yes, I know the’d cost me 4x as much here in Australia. But misfiring? That’s not a light quality issue, that’s just not working properly right?

            • Ian 3 years ago

              Hi Ryan. Same problems here. It constantly ruins my shoots. Today had a big corporate shoot and thought to use it. Mid way through the first scene it completely stopped firing for many consecutive shots. Had to swap out to sb910’s

              • Author
                Flash Havoc 3 years ago

                Hi Ian,

                Do you mean the issue you had was while using the remote head as well?

  36. Mark Kitaoka 3 years ago

    I just updated my experience with the AD600 line of strobes

    • Paul H. 3 years ago

      Thanks, Mark. All of your contributions are inspiring and instructive.

  37. Ahmed 3 years ago

    I just tried the Flashpoint Xplor 600…game changer. Profoto who?

    I love the integration with the other types of lights and i love that you can switch cameras for just $50 (to purchase the trigger)…you don’t have to sell off all your lights?

    The only problem that i have is that nobody wants to buy my phottix gear 🙁

    Oh i had a question…what cases are you guys using? The stock case? Is there anything better? I just saw this hard case on eBay:



  38. Mark Kitaoka 3 years ago

    I have completely switched from Einsteins to Xplor/Godox 600 strobes.

  39. Ralph 3 years ago

    Im having problems with my tilt locking handle system. The handle keeps going round without loosing the system henceforth i am unable to tilt the handle. Help!

  40. C. Stephen Hurst 3 years ago

    Ralph. Either Adorama or CheetahStand sells a replacement handle for the AD600. It’s all metal and better construction than the original. See this video about how to replace.

  41. RC62 3 years ago


    I just received a new AD600BM. I noticed that the modeling light flickers once in a while, maybe once every 20-30 seconds are so. Does your unit behave this way? Not sure if its normal or if I should exchange it.

    Please advise, thank you.

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 3 years ago

      Hi RC62,

      I think some people mentioned an issue like this when using the AC power adapter with the strobe. The power adapters were later updated, though I’m not sure now if that resolved he LED issue as well or if they possibly replaced the strobes through the process anyway.

      I don’t think your light should flicker though, you likely do have an issue unfortunately.

      • RC62 3 years ago

        Thanks Flash Havoc. I am getting the modeling light flickering while on the battery pack. It does not flicker on the lowest setting though, just the mid and high. I will get this unit exchanged.

  42. Vic 3 years ago

    I think I narrowed down my strobe choices to the Godox AD600 and the PCB Einsteins. Only thing uncertain about my decision is the color consistency of the AD600 in color and freeze mode. I have seen output charts of the Einsteins in this website http://www.thebroketographers.com/blog/2017/1/23/color-consistency-charts-broncolor-move-1200l-vs-profoto-b1-vs-profoto-b2-vs-pcb-einstein-e60 , but I cannot find any controlled test data for the AD600, except reading reviews that its color consistency is pretty good in color mode, but I’m hoping to find real data supporting this to help me decide which to get. Im especially interested in how much color shifts in color and freeze mode for the AD600. If anyone has seen reviews or done tests themselves, would you mind sharing? Thanks a bunch!

    • Vic 3 years ago

      Oops, I got the functionality mixed up between the Godox AD600 and QT600II, the AD600 does not have different modes for color stability and freeze/speed like the QT600II. However, I’m still interested of the color consistency of the AD600 throughout its power range.

      • Author
        Flash Havoc 3 years ago

        Hi Vic,

        I just tested the XPLOR / AD600B using a Sekonic C-700 color meter. To keep it simple I took 6 shots at each power level and did a quick average of them in my head to provide each result (I’m hoping to run through all the strobes in greater detail later) –

        1/1 – 5750
        1/2 – 5860
        1/4 – 5970
        1/8 – 6020
        1/16 – 6090
        1/32 – 6100
        1/64 – 6190
        1/128 – 6290
        1/256 – 6500

        • Author
          Flash Havoc 3 years ago

          And just out of interest these are the results for the ORLIT RT 610 / Jinbei HD 610 in normal mode.

          1/1 – 5580
          1/2 – 5510
          1/4 – 5490
          1/8 – 5610
          1/16 – 5290
          1/32 – 5490
          1/64 – 5610
          1/128 – 5780
          1/256 – 5640

          • Vic 3 years ago

            Thank you for the test results, really appreciate it! Just wondering when you say “Jinbei really manipulate the flash durations to get these results though”, can you explain that, is that a good or bad thing? Thanks again.

            • Author
              Flash Havoc 3 years ago

              Hi Vic,

              Well in practice there’s likely no negative effect in the images, so it probably a good thing if they can keep the color consistent.

        • Ken 3 years ago

          Woah…really??! Yikes. I thought these things were supposed to be 5600k +/- 200k. These are all over the place.

  43. mike 3 years ago

    firmware update v2.4 for AD600 out, details
    V2.4 Compatible with Godox Olympus/Panasonic X system and Fuji X system

    looks like there will soon be some happy people once the triggers arrive

  44. Anthony 3 years ago

    Does anyone have any info about getting a xplor 600 repaired? I called adorama and the customer service said they don’t do repairs, and didn’t even know what an e1 error was. Also, how you supposed to upgrade firmware when you have a Mac and all the software is for Windows?

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 3 years ago

      Hi Anthony,

      The strobe should be under warranty, you need to ask to speak to the brands team directly, or contact brands@adorama.com and they should sort it out quickly for you.

      Regarding Mac, a number of people have used some form of virtual Windows with success, there is some discussion on this in the Firmware post here.

  45. Ken 3 years ago

    Any thoughts on why my XPLOR600 wouldn’t go down to 1/256 power yesterday using a 5D3 and the X1 trigger? IT would only go to 1/128 power. The XPLOR’s supposed to go to 1/256. (ARe they the only Godox R2 family one that does?

    • Sven 3 years ago

      You need to set a custom function on the trigger to go below 1/128 when using the trigger.

  46. Wayne Finehout 3 years ago

    Hello, I just found this forum while performing a Google search looking for an answer to a triggering problem I am experiencing. It looks like this site will be a good place to gain more incite on this issue.

    I have 2 XPLOR 600’s and a Flashpoint Streaklight 360 using the R2-T trigger mounted on Nikon D800 and D700. Both XPLORs are non-TTL whereas my Streaklight has the TTL feature. I shoot manual with the Streaklight.

    My issue is that there is a delay between pressing the shutter release and when the shutter & flash actually fires. It seems like the lag between the press and actual release is a second or longer. This happens with all three units.

    I shoot portraits and weddings for hire and this delay causes me to miss many great moments. Is there a configuration option I might be missing in my trigger that causes this delay? Or something else I can do to get the shutter to release at the moment of the press?

    Thank you,

    • mike 3 years ago

      check the flash mode, red-eye setting can cause this


      • Wayne Finehout 3 years ago

        Thank you Mike. I did indeed have the red-eye reduction inadvertently set to on. I’ll see how that works for my shoot this weekend.

  47. Manuel 3 years ago

    Sorry if has been asked before, can you charge the battery while operating the strobe? In other words, is it safe to have the battery plugged in with the included charger so it can charge as you are using the strobe in case you start running out of power half way through a shoot? Thank you in advance.

    • Richard Hopkins 3 years ago

      Yes, it can – and it’s a very handy feature IMHO.

      I’ve been using it like this for a few weeks and while the charger won’t keep up with any kind of rapid firing (Godox claims 4hrs to fully recharge) it can certainly keep things going longer in many situations. I have not yet purchased either a spare battery or mains power supply, and may not need to.

      I can’t find any mention of this in Godox literature, either for or against, though the unit itself seems fine with it.

      I checked it by setting a timer to fire once every 20 seconds at 1/256th power to ensure the unit was properly active, and the charge indicators went up on both the battery and LCD displays.


    • Michael 3 years ago

      Just buy the AC adapter


    • Author
      Flash Havoc 3 years ago

      No its not safe to use the charger while running the strobe. That puts a lot of stress on the battery, and Lithium-ion batteries are obviously pretty volatile.

      The AC adapter is definitely the way to go there.

  48. Ryan 3 years ago

    Hi all,
    Another thing I’ve been noticing, (aside from the Godox AD600 misfiring problem, which myself, Randell John and a youtube user have), is the Green/Magenta tint/cast that seems to drop in and out between almost identical shots where nothing else changes.. Nothing in the camera settings, flash settings, or room/environment have changed!

    (All shots coming in from the Canon 6D are set to ‘Daylight’ WB, and all shots have a custom White Balance applied in Capture One as they appear tethered, and all have IDENTICAL WB settings. So it’s nothing to do with any ‘Auto WB’ etc.).

    The shots from yesterday were shot at a decent speed (1/200th/sec to 1/500th/sec) and a decent power (1/32 to 1/16) so basically cancelling out any ambient light (most of my misfired shots are almost black). So I can be sure that any jumps from a green cast to a magenta cast and back again are from the single light source, the Godox AD600, no?

    The point of using a grey card is to get a White Balance setting, and then remove that card and get the rest of the shots (with identical settings and environment) with the settings from the Grey Card shot.. Problem here is.. I do that, and then the consecutive shots are showing different Green/Magenta casts… I can’t change every single damn shot I have to take to HAVE TO have a white or neutral grey object in it!!

    Anyone else with these issues?!?

    Maybe if they swap my main AD600 unit today because of the misfiring issues, I can see if the Green/Magenta cast things goes away too?!?! Hmmmm…

    I REALLY want to like this unit, I REALL DO! But, between the misfiring and the Green/Magenta casts.. It’s killing me!!

    I know when I work on other peoples’ sets with Broncolor/Profoto lighting gear, they have NONE of these issues. No misfiring, no colour inconsistency issues!

    • Ryan 3 years ago

      Yes, I know they’d cost me 4x as much here in Australia (Broncolor/Profoto). But misfiring? That’s not a light quality issue, that’s just not working properly right?

      • Author
        Flash Havoc 3 years ago

        Hi Ryan,

        Yes its definitely not working right, you will need to exchange the strobe. I’ve not heard anyone mention the misfire issue since it was originally brought up a good while back now.

        Regarding the color shift, color consistency is not the AD600’s strongest point, though lower power setting, and HSS mode are where IGBT strobes have the most issues. So if color is important it is generally better to try and use higher power levels where possible.

        I know the Jinbei / Orlit RT 610 use a pre-flash at lower power levels to help provide better color consistency. I originally though that was likely something of a dodgey work around, though it turns out that is a method some higher end strobes use as well, warming up the flash tube before the actual shot.

        I’ve been asked not to mention names, but I know at least one of the high end brand strobes are produced on Jinbei’s production line, so its probably no surprise they have picked up some good engineering techniques. The Godox QT600 AC strobe does have a color mode as well though, I haven’t yet checked if that is using a pre-flash though its quite possible.

        I have mentioned to Flashpoint the color mode should be a priority for any updated to the AD600. So hopefully Godox do start to give that more consideration. Its possible you do have a bad copy though, if you can you might want to do some tests at low medium and high power levels to get some figures to compare with before exchanging the strobe.

        Misfires are definitely not something you should have to be dealing with at all though.

        • Ryan 3 years ago

          Hi Again Mark,
          Thanks for your reply, very interesting learning about the pre-flash/globe warming etc involved with colour correction/consistency!!

          I’ll let you all know how the AD600 swap over goes..

          In the meantime, while it’s fresh on the mind.. Just a couple more points/questions..
          (also just checking you also saw my more detailed update to the misfiring issue yesterday, that’s linked to the original post a few months back.. )

          1. I’m noticing that some of my misfires, are caused from the Godox X1T-c going to sleep after only 60 secs (definitely not all of them or the main misfire issue where even pressing the AD600 ‘Test’ button doesn’t work). These issues arise from the combination of shooting tethered and firing shots from the shutter button inside Capture One software/on my Mac, but the shutter release on some software doesn’t act as a focus button before the shot, which normally wakes up the camera and in this case the constantly sleepy X1T-c transmitter. The reason for this setup here is that the camera has to be mounted up high on a boom arm, for overhead/flat lay shots, and is much easier (and much less vibration) to click the shutter release from the software on the MacBook.. This works fine for the camera, works every time, but it seems that the Godox transmitter goes to sleep WAAAAYYY too often! There’s often WAAAY longer than 60 seconds between different products/people/changes being ready!

          …And so when I release the shutter from Capture One, the Canon 6D camera fires a shot, but the X1T-c was asleep, and the frame is black again, but now it’s awake, the 2nd and 3rd shots should have the AD600 firing correctly! …until the next 60 sec gap in shots.. and over and over again all day! Which many times leads to missing the first and occasionally best shot.

          …From what I’ve read, the only way to stop the Godox X1T-c transmitter from going to sleep so damn often is to change the ‘Function-01′ setting, which actually puts it in “Single Pin” mode!?! Is that right? Won’t I loose a lot of functionality by only working in single pin mode? Is there NO OTHER WAY of extending/killing the sleep timer unless I go into Single Pin mode?

          …If not, then 60 secs is way too short for some of us, and RIDICULOUS as the ONLY option without affecting other features!!

          My feature suggestion would be something WAY more useful like a “Sleep = 2mins / 10mins / 30mins / OFF” etc option! At least an option where we can shut of the sleep timer without it affecting anything else! Even in a 2 stage/option scenario we could get something like “Sleep = 3mins / OFF” or “Sleep = 2mins / 20mins” … What about that?

          2. Any way of seeing an actual “Change Log” of which actual fixes/updates have been made in each version of the Godox Firmware updates, not just the current/latest available one? For instance, on my end, I would like to see the “change logs” of fixes for each version of firmware updates for the Godox AD600BM and X1-Tc! This is common practice with other companies’ previous versions of firmware updates, but I can’t find anything except the one line of text for the current firmware…

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