GODOX – TT685N – TTL 2.4GHz Speedlight – Now Available

 

GODOX TT685N

 

Godox have released the fully featured iTTL and HSS enabled TT685N speedlight for Nikon DSLR’s, with Godox 2.4GHz X series radio transceivers built inside.

And the TT685N are available now from around $118 on Ebay and Amazon etc.

 

GODOX TT685N

 

The TT685N provide both radio and optic Master and Slave modes, with 3 slave groups A / B / C available.

Remote groups can be mixed, with TTL and Remote Manual Groups used at the same time, while individual groups can also be turned On and Off easily as needed.

A large dot matrix LCD display provides easy access to the master interface and functions.

 

 

GODOX TT685N

As well as acting as their own master flash on-camera, the TT685N are also compatible with the new Godox X1-N TTL transmitter and receivers.

An X1T-N transmitter mounted on the camera hotshoe can control a number of remote TT685N speedlights off camera.

While original Nikon Speedights like the SB-700, SB-900, SB-910 etc can be included in the system by attaching X1R-N receivers to their feet.

The TT685N are also compatible with Godox’s Remote Manual XT-16, and legacy FT-16 trigger sets.

 

Godox X1-N

 

Used as a master flash on-camera the TT685N can fire and control other TT685N speedlightes set to slave mode, as well as a growing range of Godox portable lights.

These include the recent TTL and HSS enabled AD600B strobes, and AD360II-N / AD360II-C bare bulb flash units.

Godox Remote Manual flash units like the popular AD360 bare bulb flashes and V850 speedlites can also be included in the system using clip on XTR-16/s receiver units.

 

GODOX TT685N

 

GODOX TT685N FEATURES

 

  • GN 60 (m ISO 100)
  • Powered by 4 x AA batteries
  • HSS to 1/8000th
  • Flash Mode – iTTL /M / Multi
  • 1st Curtain Sync / 2nd Curtain Sync
  • FEC / FEB – 1/3rd Increments (±3 stops)
  • Manual Flash – 1/128 – 1/1 output control (1/3rd increments)
  • Flash Zoom 20 – 200mm
  • Radio Master & Slave Modes for Godox 2.4GHz X Radio System
  • Godox Canon / Nikon / Sony TTL Radio Slave Modes
  • Compatible with Godox X1T-C, X1T-N, X1T-S, TTL Transmitters, and X1R-N Receivers
  • 3 Remote Groups A / B / C
  • 32 Channels
  • Range to 100 m
  • Compatible with Godox XTR-16s Receiver, & XT-16 Transmitter
  • Compatible with Godox FTR-16s Receivers, & FT-16 & Cells II-N Transmitters
  • Optic Master & Slave Modes for Nikon Optic Wireless System
  • 3 Remote Groups A / B / C
  • 4 Channels
  • Range – Line of Sight
  • S1 and S2 Optic Slave Modes
  • Recycle Time: 0.1 – 2.6 Seconds
  • 230 Full Power Flashes (using 2500mAh Ni-MH Batteries)
  • Full 360 Degree Swivel, and Tilt Head
  • Large LCD Screen
  • AF Assist Light
  • Metal Foot with Locking Pin
  • Sound Prompt
  • Custom Functions
  • Settings Memory
  • Overheat Protection
  • USB Port for Firmware Updates
  • Communication Port (For XTR-16s / FTR-16s Receivers)
  • 3.5mm Sync Port
  • External High Voltage Battery Port (Canon Style)

 

 

As well as a large LCD screen the TT685N feature back-lit function buttons.

The TT685N are powered by traditional 4 x AA batteries, with the option of connecting an external High Voltage Battery Pack for faster recycle times etc.

(A Lithium-ion powered version of the TT685N (V860II-N) will also be available in the coming months).

 

GODOX TT685C

 

The TT685N provide a 3.5mm Sync Port, and USB Port for firmware updates.

As well as a 4 pin Communication Port which provides backward compatibility with Godox’s remote manual XTR-16s, and legacy 433MHz FTR-16s clip-on radio receivers (also used with the original V850 and V860 speedlites).

 

GODOX TT685C

 

A High Voltage External Battery Port is provided at the front of the flash (Canon style socket), for connecting external battery packs like Godox’s popular PB960, or other Canon compatible packs.

 

GODOX TT685N SPECS

 

GODOX TT685N

 

PRICE AND AVAILABILITY

 

The Godox TT685N speedlights for Nikon are available now from around $118 –

Ebay, Amazon, UK, Adorama.

 

Godox – Website.

Godox – X1-N

Godox – XT-16

Godox – TT685C for Canon

 

 

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281 Comments
  1. Author
    Flash Havoc 1 year ago

    Before everyone starts flaming me again :-) … I realise the TT685N have been available for some time now. I’m just trying to catch up on posts I missed when I was caught up with other things.

    I posted the X1-N TTL triggers a few days ago as well, though backdated that post.

    I’ll leave the TT685N post at the top though as it appears a lot of people are still not aware of this flash. And they are quite significant for Nikon owners, as there are not many good third party radio enabled speedlight options available for Nikon still.

    Not to mention relevance as an on-cameras master to the AD600 and AD360II-N / C etc.

    • Ulysses 1 year ago

      Hahahahah! Don’t worry, Elv. Any flamers lurking in the wings may not realize just how much of a challenge it’s been to keep up with Godox’s blistering pace of product releases lately — and not even to mention the bunch of other companies releasing their own products with TTL and built-in batteries. I’m amazed at how you keep everything straight!

      You are also correct about many Nikon photographers not being aware of these. It’s great to see Godox offering viable candidates for Nikon shooters. This is much closer to what most Nikon photographers seem to want, rather than Nikon’s own expensive SB-5000 and the required accessories to get it working. In that sense, Godox is getting it right.

      The fact that Godox is also enabling such deep backward and sideways compatibility across their line of products is an extra bonus.

    • Ulysses 1 year ago

      And YES… having that on-camera master flash… Priceless.

    • Andy 10 months ago

      I recently added two Godox TT685n to my collection, I feel these will replace my 2 SB910’s. I also have 2 AD360 older versions and bought the new trigger X1N and the updated XTR-16 triggers. My problem is figuring out to set groups for the ad360 and how to remotely change power. Can you please give some advice how to make the x1n work with the ad360’s.

  2. Robert T. Johnson 1 year ago

    Yes I agree the TT685N/C were released a while ago and I have been eyeballing this flash for some time. I am invested in the Shanny’s SN910EX-RF and with the release of the SN910TX transmitter they moving in the right direction but a bit slower than Godox. I am tempted to sell off all my Shanny gear and jump right into the Godox system, after all I already have the AD360 which is great and with Godox releasing the X1-N and the XTR-16 receiver that’s very hard to resist. I asked Christina at Shanny if a receiver for the SN910TX would be release to do what Godox has done allowing non-wireless flashes to be integrated into the wireless system, no answer yet. Great job Godox. Anyone what to purchase some Shanny flashes?

  3. Markdoxie 1 year ago

    Where are my Li-ion batteries? Godox has a huge advantage with the Ving series. I just want them with the built-in radio triggers. Manual or TTL is fine.

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 1 year ago

      Hi Mardoxie,

      As mentioned V850II and V860II will be coming soon as well, with 2.4GHz master and slave modes built in.

      • Thomas Geist 1 year ago

        I am curious how the V860II and the TT685 will compare. Will the battery technology be the only discerning factor? Or will there be other differences? Will the TT685 stay the “top of the line” flash, or will it just be a matter of preference for AA or Li-Ion …

  4. tomK 1 year ago

    In total, this is huge. A real comprehensive TTL radio system for Nikon and a compelling alternative to Canon’s RT system.

    Best photo news of 2016 I’ve received thus far.

  5. Mark 1 year ago

    This is freaking awesome news!!! Best news of the year, so far!

  6. Thomas Geist 1 year ago

    Since I had these flashes for a while now (together with X1N-T/R) I want to share some experience with them to help you decide if they are right for you.

    I am referring to firmware 2.7 which is the current one (12/21/2015)

    All in all they are nice and well built. If I’d give the Nikon SB-900 a 10 on the build quality scale, these would get an 8. Things like head, buttons, battery door all just don’t work as nice and precise as on the Nikons.

    I personally dislike the screw lock for the hotshoe. I prefer Nikon’s switch (and the one Canon uses is even way better.

    Another thing you may miss is the very cool gel/gel-holder cap Nikon offers. These even can automatically set the camera’s white balance. Nice to have but no deal breaker on the Godox.

    I was way too curious to see how these work so I ordered them via ebay from China. My preferred way of buying however is Adorama’s Flashpoint branded models. Or those Cheetahstand sells.

    TTL exposure looks pretty good. HOWEVER:

    When shooting in Aperture or Shutter Priority Mode and Auto ISO (where the SB-900/910 performs admirably), Nikon DSLRs cap the maximum ISO at 2 stops over the set base ISO.
    So if for instance the ISO is set to 100 and Auto, when a flash is mounted, the camera will top out at ISO 400. If a higher ISO is desired, then the base ISO needs to be increased (for instance to 400 too achieve a maximum ISO of 1600).

    Whether this behavior makes sense or not is irrelevant. That’s how Nikon DSLRs do it.

    The TT685 (latest firmware V2.7) however ignores this behavior in a very deceiving manner. The camera’s display will show the usual capped ISO (like ISO 400 for a base ISO of 100) but when a shot is taken, the ISO will go up way beyond this, potentially overexposing the ambient by a huge margin.
    The flash exposure luckily takes the higher ISO value into account.

    Yet the exaggerated ISO setting and the resulting exposure for ambient light can be a huge problem. The worst however is that the camera displays a different ISO than what is actually used at the time of exposure. I find it crucial that Godox fix this behavior.

    Workaround for now: do not use Auto ISO in Aperture Mode.

    Another problem:
    When a TT685N triggers a TTL flash (V860 or Nikon SB-900) in an X1-R it woks great if the group is set to M. If the group is set to TTL, the remote flash pops with full power, no matter what setting.

    So these are the two major flaws I could find. They might or might not matter to you.

    A smaller flaw is that in contrary to Nikon’s flashes the display does not light up if you swing the camera’s power switch to the right. I miss this sorely, but the advantage of having on-camera radio flash outweighs it.

    And all (maybe even the display light issue?) can be fixed in firmware.

    • Ulysses 1 year ago

      Thomas, thank you for this writeup! Even though you and I have spoken extensively about some of these issues, I followed the explanation much better due to the really great way you organized the information here. Although some of these problems may be minor to some (or not at all a factor for others), they are VERY interesting problems. As you said, most if not all of these should be fixable via firmware update.

      The question is: Will Godox concentrate on simply releasing new products variations? or will they concentrate on refining and fixing the behavior of the existing tools? I hope it’s the latter. Great feedback!

    • Mark 1 year ago

      But for this price they don’t have to be perfect. I’m currently using one of the few other options for a Nikon transceiver unit. The Mitros + for Nikon. The radio system for them is a never miss but they sure have other issues. Like, recycle times are poor and at times TTL exposures are a mixed bag. Plus I’ve blown two tubes on two different units in just a year. When you consider this plus the $400 price tag I’m very excited about these units. I’m especially interested in the Li-Ion models coming later.

      • Ulysses 1 year ago

        I’ve also been experimenting with the Phottix system (flashes and strobes). They’re pretty decent, overall. But I’m open to change. I think the questions about the Godox / Cheetah system for me will be:
        a) they may be inexpensive, but will Godox fine-tune their firmware so that they function better?
        b) are they at least as durable as the Phottix Mitros+ flashes?
        c) could I maybe work with the new all-manual TT600 or V850 II once it becomes available?

        I haven’t yet blown any Mitros+ tubes. And for the deliberate way in which I shoot, I also haven’t had any issues with the flash tubes (yet). But when I take them out, I have to admit to sometimes wondering if they’ll last through the job.

        • Thomas Geist 1 year ago

          Ulysses,

          a) I think so. The firmware history for the TT685 and the X1 seems to indicate that. And they push out one update after the other: 8 updates between 11/5 and 12/31 in 2015 for the X1N …

          b) I have a good feeling. They seem to be pretty robust. My experience with the Yongnuo YN600EX-RT is way worse. One fell and the head came off!

          c) even the V850 with the tiny XT-16s is a cool system. The little XT-16s is so much smaller and more convenient than a hotshoe radio! This plus the Li-Ion battery.

      • Thomas Geist 1 year ago

        Mark, true. However I do wish for some perfection since for us Nikon shooters there is not much alternative if we want radio flash (without additional transmitters and receivers).

        I would actually pay what Nikon’s crazy SB-5000 costs – even for several of them – if they’d do what I want and expected. But since I don’t shoot a D5 or D500 I am forced to look elsewhere.

        This and the pretty vast system that Godox offers (from the cheap V650 that now too can run at 2.4 GHz to the AD600).

    • Robert 1 year ago

      Hello Mark with the Godox X1-NT were you able to get a metered exposure reading, when attempting with the YN622N/T you can’t get a metered reading when pressing the test button, YN622N/T’s will always fire a preflash regardless of the mode Manual or TTL. I know that the Shanny SN910EX-RF you can meter the flash output and adjust up or down.

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 1 year ago

      Hi Thomas,

      Thanks for the feedback, I’ll pass those on to Godox.

      Though with the second issue, do you have your X1-N transmitter and receivers updated to V11 ? Because as you mention there have been updates with the TT685N which require updates to the X1-N as well to correspond again.

      Thanks.

  7. Thomas Geist 1 year ago

    For those interested I also want to list the firmware history here. This is taken from the firmware updater and the original text is Chinese. This is a Google translation, but I think it’s fairly understandable.

    V2.7 2015-12-21
    1. solve some camera models in the use of radio-speed lead flashing phenomenon appears bright side.

    V2.6 2015-11-25
    1. to strengthen the capacity of wireless interference, adjustment CH9 / CH 12 / CH15 / CH18 / CH21 / CH24 / CH27 / CH30 channel frequency, is incompatible with the old eight-channel version, please upgrade related equipment.

    The point for the V2.6 update may seem unclear, here is the original English text to the same fix in the X1N devices: “Adjust RF frequence setting to avoid jam between channels.”

    The manual is also available online. It’s not listed on Godox’s download page, but here is the direct link: http://www.godox.com/CN/InstructionManual/THINKLITE_TT685N_20150724.pdf

  8. derrick 1 year ago

    Regarding the TT685. if I have the Streak light 360, then I could add these (using them in manual) and change their power levels from the camera using the transmitter for my 360 and not have to buy the X1-n? Is that correct.

    I have 3 of the YN 560iv and I might be willing to switch speed lights. Anyone follow my logic or would you do the vings series

    • Thomas Geist 1 year ago

      Derrick, that’s similar to what I am doing/planning. You would just have to get the new 2.4 GHz XT-16 receivers for the streak lights and you’re golden.

      I also have some of the Ving (both 850 and 860N) and I like these for the ease and simplicity. I will get XT-16s for those.
      The Streaklight/Witstro 360 is nice for its power but I no longer like it as much due to the many parts the system consists of. I will soon replace them with the AD600.

      • Author
        Flash Havoc 1 year ago

        I can’t agree more about all the extra AD360 components. Hopefully Godox will eventually produce an AD360 in the same form as the AD600.

        The modeling light alone is a nice feature the current AD360 miss out on.

      • derrick 1 year ago

        Hello Thomas,

        How many of the ad360 do you have and are you going to sell them? Let me know
        derrick

        • Thomas Geist 1 year ago

          I have two, they are actually the FlashPoint branded ones from Adorama. I also have
          – 2x the 2-to-1 power cable (to reduce recycling time)
          – 2x the Bowens compatible S-type Speedlight Bracket
          – 2x the umbrella reflector AD-S6
          – 2x the 5 m (16 ft) straight power cables AD-S14
          – 2x the radio receiver FT-16
          – 1x the gridded snoot set AD-S9

          Yes, I do plan on selling them. I wanted to wait until Adorama or CheetahStand have their AD600 version, but if the right seller comes by … I’d sell them earlier.

          • derrick 1 year ago

            Hey Thomas,

            I have the Flash Point Streak Light, and I live here in Dallas where the Cheetahs are sold.
            email me thru my website and lets talk.
            waitersphotography@juno.com
            thanks

  9. Jacques Cornell 1 year ago

    Micro Four Thirds has the same pin layout as Canon, so making flashes & triggers for the system wouldn’t even require different hardware from Godox. Why don’t they make TTL gear for MFT? More and more pros are going mirrorless, and the Chinese flash makers are hitching their wagons to the tired old DSLR nag. If Godox would make just two things, they would OWN the MFT market:
    1) small TTL flash for MFT
    2) X1 for MFT
    I shoot events professionally with MFT, V850 & AD360, and the biggest headache is lack of a good trigger with a TTL pass-through hotshoe.

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 1 year ago

      Jacques, the problem is that its a very big, costly, and constantly ongoing commitment to start with another TTL system, and provide ongoing support for something that’s constantly changing.

      Godox have confirmed they have Sony TTL compatibility in the works, and possibly not far off at all now. Phottix also have some Sony support already, and intend to extend that to the Indra etc in the near future as well.

      If you want TTL radio flash support with mirrorless then the Sony A7 series would have to be by far the best bet for the near future.

  10. Ulysses 1 year ago

    Jacques, I hear ya. It would certainly be nice, wouldn’t it? I also use m43 (MFT) cameras as one tool in our professional gear set, but primarily for portraits.

    The reason we’re unlikely to see radio-frequency TTL tools for Olympus and Panasonic is because there’s simply not much money in it. Yes, the number of those using mirrorless gear is growing, but it’s still a very small fraction of the total camera and accessories sales. Clearly most manufacturers feel it’s not worth the development and production costs. Like yourself, I do wish they’d be convinced otherwise. But I don’t expect it.

    To be honest, I personally prefer the flexibility of an all-manual flash anyway, especially for the portrait environment. I’m glad to see the production of the sister flash, the TT600 all-manual flash with built-in 2.4 Ghz transceiver, which can control any of the other 2.4 Ghz lighting tools also becoming available. This flash would work just fine with the MFT cameras.

  11. Webdevst 1 year ago

    Hey All!

    I’ve just bought two pieces of this flash unit. I sill have the VINGs 850N which I was thinking to sell them. However, I have to think twice before selling them…

    My units of TT685N came with FW version #2.2. After I’ve tested them only one day [ sparingly ] I’ve decided to upgrade the firmware to #2.7. Now it appears that the 1.5V batteries I’m using are being drained fast, maybe in 1-2 hours, and that in stand-by, without trigger the flashes via my newly X1T…

    I don’t have any batteries or Eneloops to run other tests, but before buying new ones, I thought I’d ask here if anyone facing the same battery drain like I do?

    Other than this issue, I really appreciate both the build quality and the TTL consistency.

    Thank you!

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 1 year ago

      Thanks for the feedback Webdevst.

      I haven’t heard of this issue from others as yet, though we’ll see now if anyone does experience the same issue.

    • Steff 1 year ago

      Is there anywhere I can download 2.2 firmware N version? It appears that on Godox’s website only 2.7 version is available for download. I’d revert to initial firmware before label the flash as defective. Only one of the two I bought shows the battery drain.

      Thanks!

      Steff

  12. Robert T. Johnson 1 year ago

    Does any know if you can get a metered exposure when pressing the test button? Using the YN622N/T’s fire a preflash giving a false metered reading. Thanks for any input.

  13. Tim Kamppinen 1 year ago

    I have seen some users report that if you have the camera set to release priority in AF-S mode, and take a shot before it finishes focusing, that the AF assist beam from the flash will stay on and potentially show up in your photo (depending on the exposure settings, of course). Wondering if anyone else can confirm this and if anyone knows whether this is something that might be fixed in a firmware update, etc. Thanks!

    • Steff 1 year ago

      I confirm this behaviour. It happened for me.

  14. Tim Kamppinen 1 year ago

    I’m getting very strange behavior with the TT865N’s. I have three of them and they seem to work as advertised until I go into HSS. For some reason, I can see the flash fire but it will not sync with the camera at all (black frame) EXCEPT if the remote flash is in Group C. Group A and Group B will fire but not sync, Group C works normally. This happens regardless of whatever combination of master and slave flashes I tried, so it doesn’t seem to be a single faulty unit (or even just two faulty units). All three are doing the same thing. What’s even more weird is that when I first tested it I had one flash on camera, one in group A, and one in group B. The group B flash was working for a few frames, but after I changed it to group C to test that, only group C would work on that flash and on all the others.

    It doesn’t matter whether I have them in TTL or Manual, and HSS is enabled in the menu of my D750. Also, all three groups work correctly when I fire the flashes remotely with the X1N transmitter. It’s only when I have a master flash on camera that groups A and B will not work with HSS.

    Any ideas? I was really hoping to fully transition to this system but this is making me question whether that’s a good idea.

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 1 year ago

      Hi Tim,

      Do you have any other bodies than the D750 you can test this with by an chance? As it could well a D750 specific issue (as you noted in some of the X1-N change-log updates) (not that that solves your problem, I realise).

      • Tim Kamppinen 1 year ago

        I’ll try it on my D700 and report back.

      • Tim Kamppinen 1 year ago

        Tried it with my D700, same thing. Only group C works in HSS with a master TT685 on camera. Everything works normally with the X1 on camera.

        Is there a way to inform Godox about this? Their site is in Chinese so if they have a support email address I have no idea what it is.

        • Author
          Flash Havoc 1 year ago

          Ok thanks Tim.

          You can contact Godox via – godox@godox.com

          I’ll drop them an email as well, though I think they are away now until the 15th.

          • Tim Kamppinen 1 year ago

            Just sent them an email. Also I looked on the flash and there is a serial/batch number which is identical on each flash: 6A04J

            Considering this occurs across all three flashes no matter which ones are slaves or masters, maybe it’s a problem with this batch? Could anyone else who has these check the batch number to see if it’s the same?

  15. Ulysses 1 year ago

    >>It doesn’t matter whether I have them in TTL or Manual, and HSS is enabled in the menu of my D750.<<

    Tim, when you say HSS is enabled in your D750 menu, can you describe more exactly what you done there in your menu settings? Thanks.

    • Tim Kamppinen 1 year ago

      There is a menu setting (E1, first setting of the Flash section) for the sync speed. You can set 1/250* auto fp, 1/200* auto fp, or 1/200, etc. You have to choose one of the Auto FP settings to use HSS. Otherwise the camera will not let you set a shutter speed above 1/200 while a flash is in the hot shoe. If you select 1/250*, the flash will fire normally at 1/250 and not shift into HSS until you go to 1/320. This means you will slightly catch the rear shutter curtain at the bottom of the frame but often not enough to matter depending on the image. If you set it to 1/200* it will go to HSS mode at 1/250 shutter (the D750 max sync is 1/200). I tried it at both 1/200* and 1/250* and the only difference was what shutter speed groups A and B stopped working.

  16. Mark 1 year ago

    Has anyone gotten their hands these units yet? If so how are the recycle times, are they consistent from frame to frame when 3-6 shots in a row are fired in succession?

    • Tim Kamppinen 1 year ago

      They are very close to my SB910. I first tested the 1/1 recycle times and got about 3 seconds for the SB910 and about 3.5 seconds for the TT685. However, I then swapped the batteries between the two units and the results were reversed. So I’d say they are equal in recycle time.

      I also took a series of six shots of a blank wall with the flash on 1/2 power, firing the shutter as soon as the flash was recycled each time. I found that the second shot was maybe 1/3 stop down from the first, but the next five were identical. I tried this with the SB910 and it did the same thing. I did notice that the flash appeared to recycle faster for the second shot with the SB910 but then slowed down for subsequent shots, whereas the TT685 had the same recycle time between the first two shots as it did between the following shots.

  17. Mark 1 year ago

    Tim, thank you for sharing your experience, that is really good news to hear. I’ve been using the Phottix Mitros + for two years now and that has been one of my biggest complaints with them is slow recycle times and inconsistent TTL for an on-camea mounted flash.

    What about TTL exposures are they pretty consistent like an SB900/910?

    • Ulysses 1 year ago

      Our mutual colleague, Thomas Geist, mentioned higher up in this thread that TTL exposures have been fairly consistent. However, you’ll want to note his more extensive writeup from approx two weeks ago. There are a few things to watch out for if you use Auto ISO and Aperture Priority mode.

      I’m waiting until at least these units start shipping from U.S. distributors before jumping in on either the TT685N or the X1-N triggers. Additionally, with the recall of the XT16, the XTR16, and the XTR16S, I’m inclined to wait until after Chinese New Year for many of these little issues to be resolved.

      • Mark 1 year ago

        Good reminder U about U.S. distributors. I’ve made the mistake in the past of buying directly from China what a pain in trying to communicate for tech support.

        I’m not an Aperture Priority or auto ISO shooter so that doesn’t concern me terribly.

        • Ulysses 1 year ago

          Very similar situation here. I’m excited about the potential for this system, whether on Nikon gear (currently problematic) or on non-Canikon gear. I typically shoot in all-manual modes for both the camera and the flash gear. But on the very rare occasion when I need TTL, I need it to work reliably and repeatably. From what I’m hearing so far, at least that doesn’t seem to be an issue.

          BUT… Godox needs to take care of those Nikon issues.

      • Mark 1 year ago

        U, so Godox through Amazon is not a U.S. distributor?

        • Tim Kamppinen 1 year ago

          Amazon has a 30 day return policy on pretty much everything (which is why I felt comfortable buying from them and testing the units) but they don’t offer any warranty beyond that.

        • Ulysses 1 year ago

          When you hear about U.S. distributors, you’re usually talking about CheetahStand, FlashPoint by Adorama, or similar. The equivalent in the U.K. would be Lencarta.

          While Amazon is U.S. based, they’re not re-branding these items or going through any sort of quality control process the way Cheetah or Adorama might do. Amazon is simply an outlet.

          But the real point is that by the time Cheetah starts getting their lights, they’ve also put in requests for certain changes to be made so the lights work a lot more reliably. It takes more time, but you’ll be almost guaranteed of a better product. For our working studio, that’s what I need. If the shooting isn’t critical, then buying early allows you to play around and get to know the system while they work out the kinks and bugs.

          • Mark 1 year ago

            Ok, good to know. I originally bought into the Phottix Mitros + when they were first announced and ordered them from China, at that time they were running a Chinese New Year special, saved about $100 on each unit. They had all kinds of problems. Finally got them replaced under warranty with the ones that I have now which are much better than the original ones.

  18. Tim Kamppinen 1 year ago

    The TTL exposures from shot to shot have been consistent for me. I just tried a couple side-by-side shots with the SB910 and in two different scenarios the TT865 exposure looked about 1/3 stop lower than the SB910. Since it was consistent across different scenes it shouldn’t be a big issue though, you could just dial in +0.3 on the flash and everything would work the same. For me, when using TTL on camera I have the camera in manual mode and adjust the flash with the exposure compensation.

    However, I will note that when I went to try this, I turned on the flash and the LCD lit up but it was entirely blank! The buttons seemed to be working as I was able to cycle through the different flash modes (I could tell because the LCD changes to red in slave mode) and I was able to fire the flash with the test button, but I couldn’t see what was going on. I thought that the screen must have died and now I’d have to send it back to Amazon. I turned it off and on again, same thing. After doing my test with a different flash, a few minutes later, the screen was working normally again. I’m glad it’s not broken but that does not inspire confidence… Luckily I have a couple of weddings coming up where I’m second shooting so I will get to try these out in real world scenarios without too much pressure.

    • Mark 1 year ago

      Good to hear Tim about the TTL.

  19. Mark 1 year ago

    Tim or anyone, do these come with a diffusion dome?

  20. Tim Kamppinen 1 year ago

    No dome. They do come with a cold-shoe base for setting the light up on a flat surface, and it has a 1/4″ thread on it to mount on a light stand.

  21. Dave 1 year ago

    I can get hss on camera (D600) with these flashes but when going wireless via x1n the hss disappears. Manual isnt really that clear on this point.
    Anyone else have any luck and how you did it pls?
    Also have 2 x v850s …. From what I read on here I’d only need 2 x X1 receiver thingees to get all 4 working?
    Anyone know if by plugging in my spare ft16 to a 685 would I be able to adjust power over all flashes?

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 1 year ago

      Hi Dave,

      A few people here have he TT685N, though I’m not sure if anyone has mentioned pairing them up with the X1-N transmitters as yet. So there could well be an issue there. Hopefully others can confirm this one way or the other, as I don’t have the TT685N myself to test this unfortunately.

      HSS is meant to work with the TT685N and X1-N transmitter though.

      Regarding the V850, with those you would be best to use the new XTR-16s receivers (with the X1-N as transmitter), as the XTR-16s will provide remote power control with remote manual flashes like the V850 and AD360. X1-N receivers can only control TTL flashes (via the TTL contacts on the flash foot).

      The XTR-16s receiver were recalled for the moment though because they weren’t actually providing remote power control when using the Nikon X1-N as transmitter (The X1-C transmitter works fine). The Godox subsequently released a firmware update for the X1-N which has remote power control working with the original XTR-16s receiver some people have already. What is still not working at the time of writing this is HSS with that combination. Once the XTR-16s are released again, though should work correctly with Nikon.

      Yes if you want to use the FT-16 triggers they will work with the V850 and TT685N for remote manual power control. The X1-N / XTR-16s (when available again) will control both as well though, and provide HSS, and TTL with the TT685N while using remote manual with the V850. The FT-16 may be a good back up set to keep though.

  22. Tim Kamppinen 1 year ago

    My TT685’s work perfectly with my X1-n transmitter in normal and HSS. I am having the opposite problem, HSS does not work correctly when using one of the flashes as a master. If I use one of the flashes as a master on my D750, the HSS does not work on groups A&B, but it does work on group C for some reason.

    • Michael 1 year ago

      Tim, I just did a few tests with a TT685N set as a group A slave on a D750… with both the X1N and with another TT685N as the master, HSS seems to work as expected. I’m not a heavy user of HSS, but I enabled it and selected a higher shutter speed (I think 1/1000), and my test shots looked normal. What version of firmware are yours? Mine are 2.7.

      • Tim Kamppinen 1 year ago

        Mine are also 2.7. Could you tell me what the batch number is on your flashes? All three of mine are 6A04J. If you have the flash on camera and pointing forward, this number is on the bottom side of the flash head.

        • Michael 1 year ago

          3 of mine are 5L10J, 1 is 5L22J (my test had been done with 2 of the 5L10Js, but I just tried the 5L22J as both a master and a slave and got the same result).

          • Tim Kamppinen 1 year ago

            Thanks, I am thinking since the problem happens on all three flashes and on both my D750 and D700 it must be an issue with that batch.

  23. Michael 1 year ago

    I emailed the following to Godox about some TT685N observations…

    “1) Changes to settings on the TT685N don’t “stick” sometimes when power is switched off and back on. For instance, setting it up as a slave then switching it off, when I turned it back on a little while later to use it I found that it had reverted back to its previous on-camera TTL setting and was no longer set as a slave as I had left it. I experimented a bit and found that if I made the change and switched it off within a few seconds, the setting would not be remembered. But if I waited about 5 seconds before switching it off, the setting WOULD stay.

    2) When cycling through the master/slave modes (using the button on the right), the zoom setting changes to M (and stays there). Manual zoom makes sense for slave mode, but the problem is that it does not revert back to A when set to master or single as would be expected.

    3) This is not really a bug, more of a desired UI tweak… I know that I’m NEVER going to use the optical master/slave mode, only the far superior radio mode. But I still have to cycle through the optical modes, which slows me down and introduces the possibility of inadvertently setting it to optical mode and not realizing it right away. It would be great if a C.Fn setting could be added to hide/show the optical mode.”

    They emailed me back, basically saying, “that’s just how it is” :) . On a good note, they did say that a better firmware update system was in the works for release later this year.

  24. Martin Cheung 1 year ago

    Can anyone who has the X1N-T confirm if theirs locks into place firmly? Mine does not which is a bit frustrating. I’d get another if I can trust it will lock.

    I had this problem with one of my TT685N’s but the seller sent me a replacement hotshoe. But on the X1N-T they are moulded into the plastic so they won’t send me a new one.

    • Michael 1 year ago

      My X1N-T does not lock into place… with the screw wheel tightened down, it can still be slid off (with some effort). I also had this problem with one of the four TT685N’s I bought.

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 1 year ago

      Hi Martin,

      The original X1T-N and X1T-C transmitters have this issue with the foot as well. I din’t know if Godox have released any revised versions as yet.

      Personally I haven’t found it much a of a problem with the transmitter alone for now, as the locking ring holds ok, though mounting a flash on top of the pass through would be very risky.

      • Tim Kamppinen 1 year ago

        Martin, same problem with my X1N. I think I might try filing down the front of the hotshoe. I would like the option of using my SB910 on top of the transmitter but as it is it’s not secure and the TTL doesn’t seem to work correctly. I’m thinking that might be because the pins aren’t lining up correctly.

        • ellery 12 months ago

          Tim & Martin, confirm that my x1 N T does not lock on to the hot shoe. Even when tighten till the wheel can turn no more. I suspect Tim it is more of lock pin does not enter the lock pin hole in the hot shoe. Side note, the length of the locking pin on the SB900 is about double the length of the pin on the X1 N T or even their TT685. The locking of the TT685 N is okay despite the fact that it is also about half the length in the SB900.

  25. Dave 1 year ago

    Tim, are you using one on top of the x1n and one separate…..or just the x1n and both 685s wireless remote slaves (at least thats what the menu on the back calls them)

    • Tim Kamppinen 1 year ago

      The two configurations I was using are:

      A) TT685 directly on camera hotshoe (no X1N) with two more as remote slaves. Everything works normally up to my max sync speed. Once I go into HSS, the remote flashes will only sync with the camera if they are in group C. In group A or B I can see the flash go off through the viewfinder and I get a black frame. I rotate the flashes to allow each one a turn at being the master flash, same thing each time.

      B) X1N on camera, nothing on top of it, all three TT685’s as slaves. Everything works, including HSS, in all three groups.

  26. Jeff 1 year ago

    Does the TT685N work with Nikon’s SC29 cord to allow the AF Assist light function to be switched to the Hot Shoe mounted AF assist light on the cord?

    Excellent comment thread here! Thank You. I really appreciate more hands on feed back on all this new equipment by photographers that put it to real use.

  27. Thomas Geist 1 year ago

    Still LOTS to fix!

    First thing in noticed is that the TT685’s flash head actually is aiming slightly upwards which can only be noticed when you are close to the subject. But at a distance of about 6-8 feet, shot with a 35 mm lens on full frame (flash zoom to Auto) there is significant vignetting at the bottom of the frame. Only when the head is tilted downwards to the “closeup” position will the whole frame be illuminated.

    Since I do not use HSS very much I hadn’t paid attention to the TT685’s HSS performance.

    (Side note: from reading the comments on this forum it looks like almost everybody seems to use HSS all the time. Really? Do you really use it so often that it is such an important thing? Just asking, since I don’t.)

    Second problem: In HSS the TT685 does not deliver a equal exposure across the frame. There are darker bars visible in the frame. (NOT the black bar you see if the shutter curtain is coming in – the frame is getting brighter again below the darker parts.)
    This happens with a TT685 as on-camera flash as well as when used as a slave.

    Lastly the problem with a TT685N as a master firing flashes on a X1N-R at full power all the time when the group is set to TTL still persists.

  28. Tim Kamppinen 1 year ago

    Used the TT685’s today while second shooting a wedding. Worked well, no issues with two off camera lights and one on-camera master for dance floor shots. TTL worked as expected when walking around the room doing candids with bounced flash. FV lock with spot metering works great.

    One thing I discovered the other day while playing with them, however, is that the flash will not fire until it is recycled, unlike the SB910 which will still fire if it is not fully recycled, but at a lower power. This results in a photo with underexposed flash but which can be salvaged in LR. With the TT685 you get no light and a black frame if you entire exposure is flash. This did cause me to miss a shot during the toasts; I took a photo a fraction of a second too soon, when the glasses were a couple inches apart, and immediately took another one when they actually clinked, but the flash didn’t fire. Sure, this wouldn’t be a problem if I had perfect timing, but I don’t… and no one does 100% of the time. There was no bouquet toss at this wedding but that is another common even that would surely be troublesome with this flash behavior.

    I’m wondering if the PB960 battery would give me faster recycle times? I know there’s a danger of frying the flash if you do too many full power pops too quickly but I don’t think that would happen with the way I shoot, and if it did at least it’s just a $120 flash to replace instead of a $500 Nikon flash.

    • ellery 12 months ago

      I shoot a 3yr birthday in a jungle gym sort of place, with a tt685, I notice that shooting bounced at iso 2500 1/125 f5.6 that the TT685 with enloop pros will in a 3 shoot volley situation only be good for the first 2, the third shoot is always beyond its ability to recycle fast enough. If any one uses this it would be a good idea to get at least an AA powered battery pack to speed up the recycling time.

      • Mark 12 months ago

        Poor recycle times, sounds like my Mitros +

        • Ulysses 12 months ago

          Mark, interestingly we needed to make use of a couple of Mitros+ flashes rather heavily at our most recent wedding. I kept in mind your comments about the slow recycle times. But we never ran into that, even though I was looking for it. In fact, sometimes throughout the evening, I was sure the flash even seemed a hair more powerful than an SB-900. Overall, though, power levels and recycle times seemed roughly the same. They were very consistent performer through the evening, too (in Manual mode).

          • Thomas Geist 12 months ago

            Ulysses, Mark, and herein lies the problem IMO: TTL can be a juice-killer. It’s actually easy to get consistent flash sequences in manual mode. Ulysses, you probably had your flashes set to 1/8 or something and at that setting they can bang out hundreds of pops.

            In TTL however you might hit a surface that’s either dark or less reflective and your flash might have to pop at full power to achieve a good exposure. Then of course your next pops will suffer.

            • Ulysses 12 months ago

              Thomas, you’re exactly right about my use — exactly why I mentioned I was in Manual mode. And correct again about my hovering around 1/8 power for the majority of the night. Now that you’ve reminded me, the desire for better battery performance was part of my reason for moving on from TTL some years ago (I used to live in TTL Town back in the day and was otherwise really effective with it). :-)

            • Mark 12 months ago

              Thomas, I’ve watched this for more than two years now and I have tried to nail down some parameters for the cause. I too have thought that the poor recycle times in TTL might be due to subject movement or compositional changes effecting the TTL metering. But I see the issue frequently when doing non-moving group photos.

          • Mark 12 months ago

            Yeah, I don’t know if it is my units in particular (4 total) or the fact that these are used in TTL mounted on-camera (D3s, D4, D750). Depending on the situation, distance, f-stop but by the forth shot in a row there is a significant exposure drop sometimes by the third shot in a row we will see it.

            • ellery 12 months ago

              Thats what I am seeing too. My fix would be go with a battery pack for insurance of shots. Look at possibility to up iso 1/3 to 2/3 to cut back on flash power needed. Auto iso suddenly become dam attractive.

              • Thomas Geist 12 months ago

                Be careful with Auto ISO!

                First of all, Auto ISO will not compensate for a flash that emitted too little light (due to empty battery or capacitors). You will still get a photo that’s too dark.

                Secondly please read my observations with Auto ISO on Nikon cameras further up. The Godox TT685N behaves very differently than a Nikon SB-900. It will raise the ISO as high up as if there was no flash turned on – which can overexpose the ambient light.

                Nikon flashes stop at an Auto ISO 2 stops over the base ISO that’s set on camera.

          • Michael 12 months ago

            Though not a comprehensive test, when I first got the TT685N I compared recycle times vs. the SB900 on full M power, and they were pretty much identical.

            And so far during wedding coverage, TTL recycle time has not been an issue for me, though I typically shoot receptions at ISO4000-8000 at f2-f4, so I don’t work my flashes as hard as I would if shooting lower ISO / higher f-stop.

            One somewhat worrisome thing that I saw (here, I think) a few days ago was that unlike Nikon (and Canon, IIRC) speedlights which, even if not fully recharged, will at least make some attempt to flash at partial power, the Godox will reportedly only fire if fully recharged. I haven’t personally run into that issue yet, but hopefully that’s something that can be fixed in firmware.

  29. Tim Kamppinen 1 year ago

    Has anyone used the TT685 with the PB960 battery pack?

  30. Michael 1 year ago

    Discovered a pretty significant exposure problem while shooting a wedding Friday evening. It only occurs with a specific set of circumstances, which is why it was not revealed during my initial testing and the previous weddings I’ve shot with these flashes.

    When I use off-camera lighting during receptions my preference is to have the on-camera master set to TTL, and 1 or 2 slaves usually set to manual at a fairly low power (just to provide some directional light, rim light, etc.). When I used Nikon SB900s (with Nikon’s built-in CLS system, through RadioPoppers), I found that shooting in this configuration resulted in the on-camera master flash TTL being underexposed by about a stop. Shooting with the TT685N does this too. Odd, as I would think that (setting aside the contribution of the slaves) the master/TTL exposure would be identical to single/TTL exposure, but no big deal, as it’s predictable and easily compensated for.

    However, Friday night I found that I was getting significantly more underexposure… like 2-3 stops. A more controlled test afterward revealed that this underexposure occurred when shooting the on-camera flash direct (not bounced) and only when shooting a scene of darker objects. Though I don’t believe slaves set to M have any effect on TTL exposure metering, just to rule it out I also tested with NO slaves active, just the on-camera flash set to master/TTL. The result is a 3-stop underexposure compared to that same scene being shot with regular TTL (not in master mode).

    To recap:

    1) Nikon SB900 in master/TTL mode direct or bounced, shooting a normally balanced scene: 1 stop underexposed (compared to single/TTL)
    2) Godox TT685N in master/TTL mode direct or bounced, shooting a normally normally balanced scene: 1 stop underexposed (same as Nikon)
    3) Godox TT685N in master/TTL mode bounced, shooting a dark scene: 1 stop underexposed (same as Nikon)
    4) Godox TT685N in master/TTL mode direct, shooting a dark scene: 3 stops underexposed (NOT same as Nikon)

    If anyone wants to take a look at two sample shots that illustrate the problem, here’s a dropbox link:

    https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7041323/tt685n.zip

    183_9191 = on-camera flash set to regular (single) TTL mode
    183_9192 = on-camera flash set to master TTL mode (no slaves present)

  31. Ulysses 1 year ago

    Michael, thanks for the tests and reporting.

    The way you’re using these flashes is similar to how I’d been planning to use them:
    – on-camera master in manual mode
    – remote flashes in manual mode

    So has TTL in general been an issue, or only when in this configuration of a TTL master with manual remotes?

    This seems like it would be a fairly common configuration for event shooting. I’m almost surprised you didn’t run into this at your previous weddings. How was your setup different for those? Was it a problem to compensate for or work around?

  32. Michael 1 year ago

    TTL in general has been fine. And if you are planning to use the master in M, you probably won’t encounter this problem… I didn’t specifically test with master on M, just TTL, but I should also add that it happens regardless of whether the slaves are TTL or M (or even if all remote groups are turned off, which was how the test shot I linked to was done).

    I hadn’t noticed it prior to Friday’s wedding because it only seems to occur with direct flash, and previous events have all been shot bouncing the master… Friday’s wedding was outside at night, so it was the first time I’ve shot in this configuration (direct flash master with remotes).

    While the 1 stop underexposed that I’ve always encountered with an SB900 as TTL master was easy to compensate for, this situation is a bit trickier… because the underexposure is exacerbated by dark subject matter I can’t just do as I’ve always done (FEC to +1 as the base setting and then increase or decrease depending on subject lightness/darkness). Instead, this will require the completely counterintuitive adjustment of HIGHER FEC for darker subjects!

    Hopefully this can be fixed via a firmware update, but I imagine the hard part is going to be getting the message across to Godox…. there’s somewhat of a language barrier issue, and I suspect it might be difficult to effectively communicate the specific circumstances required to replicate the problem.

  33. Ulysses 1 year ago

    It’s going to be interesting to see how much they’re able to correct in the next version or two of firmware updates, as well as in the wider release of the flash units.

    Interesting that you observed this very low exposure problem with direct flash rather than bounced flash. Might the camera metering mode play a role (Matrix, Center weighted, or Spot)?

    • Michael 1 year ago

      Just tried the other two metering modes, which gave a similar result.

      Honestly, I’m a bit surprised that the flash would have so much to do with TTL exposure… I would expect slight differences between Godox and Nikon perhaps based on imperfections of the electronics that control how powerful the flash should fire, but would think that the camera would be in nearly complete control of determining TTL exposure.

      I suppose there could be a firmware bug that is causing the flash to fire too powerful of a preflash or too weak of a main flash, but why would that only be occurring when photographing dark subject matter?

      • Author
        Flash Havoc 1 year ago

        Hi Michael,

        Thanks for the feedback on this. I have asked Godox if they can possibly set up a better way to report these bugs. Though in the mean time to it would likely be a good idea to drop then an email at godox@godox.com, so they can reply to you directly if they need more details etc.

        • Michael 1 year ago

          Yes, a better bug reporting system would be fantastic! I did email Sue at Godox a few days ago, and received a reply today that she did not understand the problem based on the description and pictures I provided, so I sent a differently-worded description. Language barrier!

          Interestingly, I also posted about this problem on the Godox Users FB page (which I realize is not affiliated with the company), and the two people who responded both said it was due to the light being emitted from the M remotes throwing off the TTL metering. This didn’t sound right to me, as it is my understanding that only remotes set to TTL would fire during the metering phase, with M remotes only firing during exposure and, by their very definition, not affecting the calculation of the TTL exposure. But even aside from that, the test shots I posted were with all remote groups disabled.

          That seems to be a frequent occurrence when posting about a problem that occurs only under certain limited circumstances… people assume that just because they have not encountered that particular problem, it must be user error (if not an individual defective piece of gear). I’m just the opposite… whenever I see something like that, I immediately pull out my gear and try to replicate the problem.

          Reminds me of another issue I had several years ago… when shooting with a D3s or D700 with fast primes, when the SB900 focus assist was turned on images would be backfocused significantly (happened with multiple bodies, flashes, and lenses). Posted on a forum about it, and was universally told that it had to be something I was doing wrong, because they had never noticed it. One other member finally decided to do a test shot, which indicated no noticeable backfocus. But I could tell from the image that it was shot from only a few feet away, and I had noted that the problem was most noticeable at longer ranges (at least 8-10ft. IIRC). Once he shot at that range, he too observed the backfocus.

          • Thomas Geist 1 year ago

            Michael, I agree with you on all accounts!
            BTW – the D3/D700 focus assist issue is known and I remember discussions about it with other users who had encountered it.

            However, I am not sure whether groups set to manual would not fire a pre-flash and would not be evaluated by the metering system. Would be worth testing.
            Does “M” just stand for manual power setting or for “not known to the system”?

            However, your test without the groups running confirms that the problem lies somewhere else.

            • Michael 1 year ago

              My assumption has always been that M groups fired at whatever power you set, and did not fire a preflash (thus did not affect the TTL calculation). But I did just confirm that indeed there is no preflash… I filmed a slave in slo-mo, and with that group set to TTL, two flashes are emitted, while when the group is set to M, there is only one flash.

              • Thomas Geist 1 year ago

                Michael,
                Thank you for verifying! I really didn’t know how it actually worked. You can always learn something! :)

                • Michael 1 year ago

                  Yeah, I was pretty sure, but it’s definitely nice to know for certain! Oh, and FWIW, the AF assist / backfocus problem does not seem to occur with the D750 (maybe just a tiny bit, but barely enough to be noticeable / problematic like it was with the D700/D3s).

  34. Joseph 1 year ago

    Hi,

    Has the problem of HSS syncing solved with X-1n triggers?

  35. Darryl J 1 year ago

    Michael,

    Maybe Godox TTL metering defaults to a TTL-BL mode equivalent instead of standard TTL. That may explain the issue. Set your SB-900 to TTL-BL and see if you can replicate the exposure with the nikon speedlight.

    • Michael 1 year ago

      Hi Darryl… I did a TTL vs. TTL-BL test on the SB900, and while the result does not fully explain why this is happening, the article you linked to does at least give some clues, and does solve a related mystery. Earlier I mentioned that the SB900 underexposes by about a stop when set to master/TTL (and the TT685N does as well, when shooting a normal scene). I found that the exposure of the SB900 master/TTL image was the same as SB900 TTL-BL, as that article points out would be expected (I didn’t know that master/TTL was actually TTL-BL). So that is helpful to know.

    • Michael 1 year ago

      Response from Godox: “You can adjust the exposure compensation.” Grrr…..

    • Michael 1 year ago

      Darryl, after my initial test this morning I read that article (and an article linked to it about the TTL-BL issue and third party flashes) in more detail and found some interesting discrepancies between the information presented vs. the TT685N.

      In a nutshell, the article says that distance information from the lens is used in TTL-BL mode (which is also the mode that is used when master/TTL is selected) to override the metered flash power in an attempt to avoid overexposure of objects that are too close to the camera, but that the distance information is often inaccurate, resulting in underexposed images.

      Interestingly, it also goes on to say that third party Nikon-compatible flashes are IMMUNE to this problem because they lack a switch in the flash head that detects when the flash is being used in bounce position (with Nikon speedlights, the lens distance info is used when shooting direct flash, but is disabled when bouncing… because the third party flashes do not have this switch, the distance information is always ignored). But in my tests, there is a clear difference in exposure seen between direct and bounce… in master/TTL, direct flash is severely underexposed, while bouncing the flash yields an exposure that is only about a stop less than the regular single/TTL mode. So this would seem to indicate that the TT685N does have a switch in the flash head that senses when bounce position is used, but I can’t confirm that.

      Also, the article mentions that using FV lock or spot metering will block the use of the lens distance data, but I did still get the 3 stop underexposure with both of these with the TT685N.

      • Author
        Flash Havoc 1 year ago

        Hi Michael,

        Have you established whether the TT685N provides TTL-BL mode at all, without master mode selected?

        • Michael 1 year ago

          There is no TTL-BL mode that is selectable like on the SB900… in single, the mode button cycles between i-TTL, M, and RPT.

          • Author
            Flash Havoc 1 year ago

            Thanks, yes I understand there is no option to select TTL-BL. Though as the article Darryl linked to explains TTL-BL is the standard now, you have to use spot metering on the cameras to disable it when using the latest Nikon flashes (apart from the SB-910).

            I’m just trying to confirm the TT685N have no TTL-BL function at all to start with. I don’t have he TT685N to check, though I’ll take a look at the AD360II-N. (I’ve checked the AD600B off camera and that has no TTL-BL).

            It is becoming a little confusing when the third partly flashes generally don’t have TTL-BL, and Nikon are using this as the standard metering now.

            • Michael 1 year ago

              Ah, sorry… ok, in TTL/single mode, I can see no difference in exposure between evaluative and spot metering modes, which would seem to indicate that this is regular TTL and not TTL-BL according to that article. However, I also tried FV lock (another “TTL-BL bypass” method mentioned) and found that it resulted in an exposure about 1 stop higher than without FV lock, which would be an indication that this IS TTL-BL. So unless there’s something else at play, those two findings directly contradict each other.

              • Michael 1 year ago

                Oh, and to add… that 1 stop difference was with shooting the dark object, and shooting a more normal scene was only about 1/3 stop brighter with FV lock.

  36. Ulysses 1 year ago

    >>in TTL/single mode, I can see no difference in exposure between evaluative and spot metering modes<<

    Michael, I'm sorry for asking a daft question, but as this thread speeds up again, I want to be sure I'm accurately understanding your observations.

    When you say "TTL/single mode", what mode(s) EXACTLY are you referring to on your camera & flash? And just to verify, I take it this is the Nikon version?

    • Michael 1 year ago

      Ulysses… yes, I am Nikon. By TTL/single I am referring to the flash being set to the standard “on-camera flash only” TTL mode, and by TTL/master I mean the commander mode with the on-camera flash (M) “group” being set to TTL.

  37. ellery 12 months ago

    Hey guys did any one have an issue of a TT685N with either in consistent operation as a rf master or slave. When I first got it was intermittent meaning some times it worked as rf master and rf slave but then on further testing it now refuses to respond as a rf slave and rf master.

  38. Manuel Lopez 12 months ago

    I just received my tt685n today and so far so good. I grazed through the comments and I didn’t see anyone mention that on the specs you have noted the external hv battery pack connector to be Nikon style when in fact it is a Canon style connector.

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 12 months ago

      Thanks Manuel.

      I’ve changed that spec in the post 3 or 4 times now from people saying they are one or the other, and Godox are saying they are Nikon for the TT685N and Canon for the TT685C.

      So are you completely sure your TT685N has the Canon socket?

      If anyone has a TT685N with a Nikon socket please let us know here as well. Thanks.

    • ellery 12 months ago

      Problem is that Nikon over the years have been fiddling with the socket – I try to dig some info out.

  39. Tim Kamppinen 12 months ago

    After second shooting another wedding with the 685N’s, I noticed a few more problems. When changing from master mode to regular on-camera flash, the zoom resets and the mode always changes back to iTTL. So, when I was in commander mode I had the on-camera flash set to Manual power and 200mm zoom, with two slaves firing as rim lights (on the dance floor). When I wanted to go take candid shots away from the dance floor, I switched back to regular on-camera flash mode (no slaves) and it defaulted to iTTL and 20mm zoom. The same thing happened when switching back to commander mode; the master flash went back to ittl, 20mm zoom. The on-camera flash should stay at the same settings no matter what mode you are in. The way it works now results in lots of extra button presses every time you switch modes, as well as problems with your exposure if you forget to change it every time.

    Another issue is how stiff the flash head is when you swivel it to point the light at a wall or ceiling for bouncing. I do this constantly so I can control the direction of light on my subjects. It’s so stiff that it causes the flash to rotate in the hotshoe, and the foot of the flash actually seems to be loose from doing this. I hope that it doesn’t continue to worsen but as it is it wobbles around and makes me worry. I also had a handful of times where the flashes did not fire and I had to wiggle the flash in the hotshoe and try again before they worked.

    Finally, I noticed that the focus beam of the TT685 is clearly inferior to the one on the SB910. I was hunting for focus quite a bit during the first dance where the SB910 would have locked right away.

    I don’t know, I really want to love this system but I might end up using my SB910 with the X1N on a sync cord, as cumbersome as that is. For off camera portrait work with the X1N, it’s great, but the 685 seems to have quite a few issues as an on-camera master flash.

    • Michael 12 months ago

      I’ve also run into the issue of the flash reverting to default settings (zoom, etc.) when switching modes. Another thing to watch out for… if you make any changes and then turn the flash off (such as preliminarily setting up a slave in advance, intending to turn it back on later and have it be ready to go), the settings won’t stick unless you wait 5-10 seconds after making the changes before you shut it off.

      And yeah, the af assist beam is pretty terrible… The projected pattern is visibly more noticeable/distracting, and functionally is less effective. The main problem I see is that as your distance to the subject increases, the pattern spreads out… so if you’re shooting with an 85mm, there’s a reduced chance of one of the little line segments being where it needs to be (on or near the selected af point) to help. I’ve found that using the “group” af point mode on the d750 helps somewhat.

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 12 months ago

      Tim & Michael, don’t worry were pressing the point of the need for a more professional on camera master flash to Godox and Adorama weeks ago. I think Godox alone may be very slow to improve this, though hopefully Adorama / Flashpoint’s involvement may help push things along.

      The stiff flash head / lack of locking button, basic AF assist light, screw lock foot, and for Canon the lack of GR group mode interface, are all things that need to be upgraded in a more high end master flash.

      They’re not the sort of thing things that will happen straight away unfortunately, though this is the major piece of the puzzle missing now for Godox, so hopefully they will move on this.

      Regarding the stiff flash head though, the thing that is making them stiff is just the sticky grease used to give the head a nice smooth quality feel. Without that grease they move very easily, though they have a very rough and clunky feel then. A lot of the third party flashes are like this (though generally not as stiff).

      Another person I mentioned this to put a little lubricant spray called “Super Slick Slick Stuff” in the swivel joint and that free the head up nicely. Do that at your own risk though. I don’t imagine a little spray would damage anything or make too much of a mess, though I can’t guarantee that.

      • Tim Kamppinen 12 months ago

        Do you have any info on when Adorama will start carrying their version of the 685’s? The three I have were from an amazon seller and were Prime items when I bought them but now all the options on their are a month or more for delivery.

        • Author
          Flash Havoc 12 months ago

          I just checked with Adorama / Flashpoint, and they should have the TT685C/N equivalent available around the end of March.

          • Tim Kamppinen 12 months ago

            Thanks for checking. Do you know if they are doing anything to address the locking issue, or if they are even aware of it? Two of mine won’t lock on the camera, the third will.

            • Tim Kamppinen 12 months ago

              To clarify, I’m wondering if Adorama is doing anything (such as only stocking newer units with the issue fixed, etc.)

            • Ulysses 12 months ago

              Tim, I’ve heard directly from Ed at CheetahStand that Godox knew about this issue very early on. They have addressed the locking pin issue for units being shipped to his company. I’m certain the same has been done for Adorama. :-)

  40. Ulysses 12 months ago

    Indeed, each individual photographer might have more or less tolerances for what constitutes a “professional flash.” As a working pro, I only need things to be very simple and very reliable. I don’t require a lot of complication.

    For example, the Phottix Mitros+ flash head is also a friction-based head even though in many respects it might be considered a “professional flash” due to the locking mechanism on the foot, the rubber seal at the foot, and a better AF-assist lamp. And yet the Mitros+ has a bad history of failure for many photographers. (I have been very fortunate in this regard… no dead flashes yet.)

    What is more concerning to me from a workflow standpoint is Tim’s report of the way the TT685 will revert back to default settings and default zoom level simply by switching from on-camera Master to regular on-camera flash. Little things like this in a master flash would incline me to stick with the risky Phottix Mitros+ even though it is much more expensive rather than deal with the frustration of a flash that makes my job a hassle all night.

    I hope they address this sort of thing in the TT685 as well as the alleged V850 II if indeed the latter may be used as a master flash.

    • ellery 12 months ago

      Ulysses, when it rains it floods. My TT685, has a different spin to the zoom problem. It just plain does not register what zoom setting the lens is set to. To change the zoom setting I have to set the zoom via the control panel of the flash. I guess I got the dud of the litter. Lucky I got smart, and bought from my local stockiest. My unit has a 1 yr warranty which I can get some tech support locally. They will replace me a unit from next shipment due around mid month. It works even cripple as it is. Hoping it get better. Beta test we all are and its a little sucky.

      • Michael 12 months ago

        Just to confirm… are you specifically putting the flash into auto zoom mode? Sounds kinda silly, but in order for the TT685N to auto zoom, you have to hit the Zm/C.Fn button and turn the zoom setting down past 20mm, at which point it goes into A zoom (and follows the lens’ zoom).

        However, when you then cycle through the master/slave modes, it reverts back to M. That behavior is counter-intuitive… it should automatically be set to A for the master (or single) modes, and M for slave modes. But it is what it is.

        • Tim Kamppinen 12 months ago

          It should stay at whatever setting you put it on IMO. Even with a single on-camera flash I am almost always bouncing and never want my flash zoom to change when I zoom my lens. I usually keep it at 200mm to get the most power out of my directional bouncing.

          • Ulysses 12 months ago

            Tim, for what it’s worth, I agree with you that the flash should be smart enough to at least remain where you last set it in whichever modes you most recently used and customized.

            That said, I thought it was interesting to compare my Nikon SB-910 and my Phottix Mitros+ flashes.
            The SB-910 automatically zooms when the head is set forward in direct flash mode. It also zooms when in bounced position. Interestingly, it zooms when it is the Master flash (I never paid attention to that one before).

            The Mitros+ zooms ONLY when the flash head is set forward in direct flash mode. It does not zoom in the bounced position. And it does not seem to zoom if it is being used as the Master flash.

            Both flashes will come back to whatever zoom level is appropriate for the lens focal length when using a mode that will allow zooming per the above paragraphs.

            • Tim Kamppinen 12 months ago

              I just have the auto zoom turned off on my SB910 so I can always be in control of it. The rare times I use direct flash are usually for shutter-dragging dance floor shots where I want to keep the flash head zoomed in while shooting with a wide lens to create a natural vignette/avoid blowing out the people that are closest to the camera on the edges.

        • ellery 12 months ago

          Micheal – your a life saver. Thanks. Cute part is the SB900 has trained me to expect to see what setting the zoom setting on flash i.e. I will also know where the zoom lens is incase I want a quick confirmation. The bestie as you said needs to reset back to auto zoom each time you go from i TTL to any other of the master or slave modes. Once reset it only auto zoom in either of the master modes (optical or radio) but not in the slave (logical sort of).

  41. Ulysses 12 months ago

    Ellery, wow… sorry to hear you’ve been dealing with so many problems with this flash. I tend to agree, it sounds like you simply have a lemon. At least you have a means of addressing it. Keep us posted on how things get resolved for you. Hopefully you get much better results with a new flash.

    • ellery 12 months ago

      Ulysses, it all user error – me together with a manual that lets say a little skimpy on a whole of details. Thanks to Martin review piece – he pointed out there are 2 master and slave modes – optical and radio. The manual blithely talks about wireless flash with distinguishing that the are 2 forms of this with helpful screen shots of the optical mode only. I guess I need to check these thing before 10pm or post end of job. The other problem of non auto zoom was solve – when you do a manual change zoom setting after 20mm there is a couple of —- which is supposed to be auto zoom. This however is not a sticky setting go into any master or slave mode it get reset to the default manual zoom. Auto zoom needs to be reset every time you leave a mode i.e. i TTL, master or slave. Good news is that the flash remember the last time it was set so if you do not change mode , switching on and off does not reset this to default.

  42. Ulysses 12 months ago

    Very interesting, Tim. I work a bit differently on the zoom function, only adjusting it myself when I really need to. One less thing to think about.

    But if the TT685 is simply “forgetting” what I wanted and going back to some sort of default when I’m switching between master flash and regular on-camera flash (regardless of TTL or Manual modes), I can see how that would be a hassle during a fast-moving night of shooting. I’m not quite sure what to make of that or if I’d tolerate it. This is an important topic for me because right now I’m trying to decide whether or not I’ll go with Godox/Cheetah and use the TT685N as a master flash, or if I’ll stick with the also-risky Mitros+ flash.

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 12 months ago

      Hi Ulysses,

      Sorry for the off topic comment, though could you please try and press the reply button to the comment of the person you’re replying to.

      At the moment you’re starting a new comment sub thread each time.

      I know the comments section on this template is not very good (it only nests the replys to one level so you can’t even see who you replied to beyond the first level) though its hard to find any WordPress template that is maintained with updates for more than a short time, so I don’t really want to change it all again.

      • Ulysses 12 months ago

        Oops!!! Sorry about that!! I think I know what’s happening. If I come to the thread from my email notification rather than directly through the browser, it’s easy for me to make that mistake. I’ll be more conscious of replying correctly in the future. Thanks for the reminder. :-)

        • Author
          Flash Havoc 12 months ago

          No worries, and thanks for that.

          Its not your fault, and I wish there was some way to make it clearer as lot of people do it. Though if regular posters can get used to it they will at least help clear up a lot of the comments.

  43. Tim Kamppinen 12 months ago

    Yeah, there’s still no perfect option. For me, I’ve been happy with the performance using these flashes off camera with the X1N. All of my issues have been with an on-camera master flash. Using an SB910 with a sync cord and the X1N attached to the side of my camera is a pain but I was already doing the same thing with my Radiopopper JR2 transmitter before getting the 685’s. At least now if I use that setup I don’t have extra receivers to deal with, and it’s only for the reception. When shooting portraits I can just stick to the X1N on the camera. I just preordered an AD600 from adorama so how well that performs will probably be the deciding factor on whether I stick with this system long-term.

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 12 months ago

      Hi Tim,

      As mentioned to Ulysses above, could you please try and press the reply button to the comment of the person you’re replying to.

      The comment system here is not very clear, though if regular commenters can get used to this it will go a long way to making things clearer. Thanks.

      • Tim Kamppinen 12 months ago

        Yeah, I intended to do that but I must have been distracted or something.

    • ellery 12 months ago

      Tim FYI the order code AD600B is for the ttl version and the AD600BM is for the MANUAL ; non ttl one. There is a fair bit of confusion even in companies that sell off eBay.

  44. Thomas Geist 12 months ago

    It’s available at Adorama now, their name is Flashpoint ZoomLioN R2 TTL.
    The price is $179.95 which is significantly higher than the prices on eBay.

    The advantage however is a US based reseller with a warranty and very good exchange behavior.

    The other question is: are they any different from the Godox models sold on eBay? The FT-16 transmitters were as they had a 3.5 mm mini jack output.

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 12 months ago

      Thomas, that listing for the Flashpoint ZoomLion R2 TTL appears to be the V860II equivalent.

      I doubt they are in stock though, because as far as I know Godox do not even have them ready yet.

      I’ll see what I can find out about the TT685 (and V860II) from Adorama.

      • Thomas Geist 12 months ago

        You’re right! It mentions the Li-Ion battery.

        But I put it in my shopping cart and it showed up as ready to order – in contrary to the XPLOR 600 which shows up as “pre-order” …

        • Author
          Flash Havoc 12 months ago

          I’m not 100% sure, though I know one person at least got caught out with the same situation with the XPLOR 600 a couple of weeks ago. Sometimes the early listings show in stock when they shouldn’t.

          I likely won’t get an answer from Flashpoint for another 12 hours or so now.

        • Tim Kamppinen 12 months ago

          Order it and see if they ship it :)

          BTW, I looked at the listing… disappointed to see Adorama pulling the Amazon trick of attaching reviews from a totally different product to a listing for something brand new and not even on the market yet.

        • Author
          Flash Havoc 12 months ago

          Ok Flashpoint have confirmed the ZoomLion R2 TTL (V860 II equivalent) are not currently in stock. No estimated availability time either just yet.

          Flashpoint will be stocking the AA version TT685C/N equivalent, and they should be available around the end of March.

  45. Manuel Lopez 12 months ago

    So crazy question, will the X1N transmitter work with the Adorama’s Flashpoint 2.4 radio flashes? Or vice versa?

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 12 months ago

      Manuel, if you’re meaning Adorama’s Godox radio flashes like the Streaklight 360 TTL, and ZoomLioN R2 TTL then yes, they will work with the Godox branded X1-N units.

      Flashpoint will sell the X1-N triggers soon under their own brand naming as well.

      • Manuel Lopez 12 months ago

        Thank you!

      • Owen 12 months ago

        The Adorama product description page for the Canon version of the “ZoomLion R2 TTL” flash (http://www.adorama.com/FPLFSMZL2CA.html) suggests it supports all 5 groups in Gr mode:

        “The R2 system provides a full proprietary GR Group style interface allowing up to 5 Groups to be individually set to either TTL, Manual, or Off and most importantly, TTL and Manual Groups can be conveniently mixed together as needed.”

        Is this simply just a mistake, as far as anyone knows?

        Owen.

  46. ellery 12 months ago

    Quick question on recycling speed of the TT685 N, my on job test run seems to show this recycles slower and seems to have a small capacity capacitor- in bounced mode with the zoom set at 24mm I can get about 3 rapid shots before it does not have enough juice to do proper lighting. A SB900 used to good for 4 to 5 shots. My observation is that the TT685 is about 1/3 stop less power than an SB900 but I will have to reevaluate since the test was all done without auto zoom running on the TT685.

    Just in case there is doubt about what plug to mate with the TT685N – use the cannon connector for power packs – it can not accept Nikon as the socket is too small.

  47. Daniel 12 months ago

    Hi all,
    I ran into this website and this conversation after spending a long time browsing user reviews and feedback on the TT-860 flash. However, upon reading all the comments and specifications on these TT-685 here on flashhavoc, I am quite inclined to getting these instead and would very much appreciate it if you guys would help me out on this one. I apologize if this isn’t the right place or if this isn’t meant for suggestions.

    I recently switched from Canon to a Nikon system(D750). Prior to switching, I was looking into buying a pair of TT860 with the older FT-16 transmitter and receiver once I finished my lens collection, which is now complete. Now I’m undecided based that both have mixed reviews and both have their own ups and downs.
    I really enjoy shooting macro, both in the field and in fixed environments. I’m not so much of a portrait guy, but I’m definitely looking to get into it once I have some proper lighting, which should be as soon as I make up my mind on a type of flash. Recently, I’ve been asked to photograph a few make-up competitions for a friend who is about to finish her studies in MUA and is going to participate in a few events and competitions. I’ve also been asked to shoot some skateboarding and rollerblading pictures for a local group.
    Now, for the make up events, I obviously won’t be needing HSS flashes or fast recycle times, but for the skateboarding and rollerblading one, they may come in handy. Particularly in wireless. I’m also big into landscape photography, and perhaps my most preferred out of all. Though just a hobby, it’s what funded most of my gear so far. Now I’m looking to expand my hobby/part time job into new horizons: portraiture and macro.

    Given the above, which of the two models would you guys suggest meet most of my needs better? A pair of 860s or a pair of 685s? How about an 860 with a receiver capable of receiving 2.4ghz freq and a 685 with a trigger. This would allow me to have the 685 both as a master on-camera controlling the 860 and as a wireless flash, should I not need the 685 to be a master. What do you guys think? Once again sorry if this isn’t intended to be posted here. Thank you all for your time.

    -Daniel

    • Ulysses 12 months ago

      Daniel, as you probably suspected there are no quick & easy answers to your questions. You’re going to want to experiment and use your choice of lighting in different situations to see if they perform according to your needs and your shooting style. I expect either of these flashes will do a satisfactory job for you.

      There are a couple of differences, and each has its own advantages. The TT685 supposedly can get 230 full-power pops on four AA NiMH batteries, with 2.6-second recycle times at full power. The TT860 will last over 600 pops on its single proprietary Li-ion battery, with a 1.5-second recycle time at full power.

      While the TT860 will give you some compatibility with TTL and Nikon’s optical pulse communication system, the TT685 has a built-in transceiver for communicating with other Godox 2.4 GHz lighting gear. The TT685 can work as either a slave or as a master in radio frequency mode, as well as in optical pulse mode. The TT860 can be a master flash in OPTICAL mode only. They’re both great flashes.

      If you haven’t already done so, you should read Flash Havoc’s review and writeup of these respective flashes.

      V860C (this is the review of the Canon version, but most functions are the same on the Nikon version.
      http://flashhavoc.com/godox-v860c-ving-ettl-flash-review/

      TT685
      http://flashhavoc.com/godox-tt685c-ttl-radio-speedlite-announced/

  48. Paul B 12 months ago

    I just got a TT685N today for my D750 and I have what seems to be a total newbie question that I can’t find the answer to. The focus assist light is IN the photograph. As in, the focus assist from the TT685N stays on too long so there are the red cross hatches visible in my photos. It does go off, just not soon enough before the shutter trips. This has happened in about 1/2 of the 25+ shots I’ve taken. My daughter looks lovely with a bunch of red slashes on her face.

    This, and the fact that after literally 3 shots, the display on the flash went blank for data for about ten minutes then came back on. The backlight was on, but no data showed up on the display and pushing the buttons had no effect. Removing and re-inserting the batteries had no effect. Still no data on the display. Then mysteriously the display came back on and it seems to work fine now, except for the red cross hatches which are still there.

    I was hoping to start with this flash and then add the 360 for a more complete system. Now I’m wondering if I should just return this one and go a different route. Maybe get from Adorama hoping that quality control is better? Or maybe something totally different?

    (I’m coming from Canon where my 430EX and 580EXII were pretty much bombproof. $$ though. Worked great with Yongnuo 622’s.)

    • Michael 12 months ago

      I’ve noticed that on some of my pictures too… read somewhere that it occurs if the photo is taken while the camera is still in the process of focusing. So, hopefully it can be fixed in a firmware update. However, I’ve noticed that with the bugs I’ve pointed out to Godox, the responses have generally been to tell me to do it differently as opposed to “ah, thanks, we’ll fix that”, so we’ll have to wait and see I guess.

      • Paul B 12 months ago

        Thanks Michael. Looking back through this this thread, it looks like Steph mentioned the focus light in the photo issue a month ago. No word on any kind of firmware update that I’ve seen. The photos are correctly exposed in iTTL mode, so the flash had time to send out a preflash and then to fire while the focus light was still on. I’m not an engineer, but I would think it would be a basic design to make sure that if the flash is firing, the focus assist light would be off.

        And… the screen went blank on me for a few minutes this morning again. For me, these are major issues. The stiff flash head is a moderate issue. I’m going to have to just send this one back unfortunately.

        • Paul B 12 months ago

          Michael, something you wrote gave me an idea. For anyone following who might have the same issue with the focus assist light in the photo, after some experimenting I’ve found that it only does this when the autofocus priority selection is set to Release on the camera. Does not show up when the priority selection is set to Focus on my D750.

          For me, this is still a fail, although possibly less so now that I can work around it. It means that I have to choose between the focus assist light on the flash and the Release priority on the camera.
          (I have Version 2.7)

          • Paul B 12 months ago

            Looks like I spoke too soon. The red slashes don’t show up AS OFTEN with my D750 in Focus priority mode, but still often enough to ruin some good photos and prevent me from using the focus assist light on the 685N.

            • Author
              Flash Havoc 12 months ago

              Thanks Paul,

              I think Godox are aware of this issue already though I’ll pass it on again. There hasn’t been new firmware updates for a while, and Godox have quite a few little bugs to look at on the Nikon side.

              As far as I understand the engineers are working on the Canon 5Dsr compatibility issue at the moment, which may take some time to resolve.

  49. Thomas Geist 11 months ago

    While we are collecting and re-iterating bugs for Godox to fix them (and Adorama to hopefully pressure Godox), here is one that I reported quite a while ago:

    When a TT685 triggers a Nikon compatible TTL flash (V860, TT685N or Nikon SB-900) that sits in a X1R, it woks great if the group on the Master TT685N is set to M. If the group is set to TTL, the remote flash pops with full power, no matter what setting.

    Pretty bad bug I would say. Not fixed in the most recent firmware (V2.7).

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