GODOX – Witstro AD180 / AD360 Bare Bulb Flash – Review

The Godox Witstro AD180 is the first serious manual bare bulb hotshoe flash alternative to emerge, with 150WS, Remote Manual Power Control, and even remote FP HSS, filling the void left when flashes like the popular Sunpak 120J where discontinued a number of years ago.

Update – Godox also now have the larger AD360, 307WS version of the Witsro available as well. This is aproximately one stop more powerful than the AD180, and aproximately 830grams vs 600grams for the flash body. And the AD360 comes with a flat base option, otherwise it is similar to the AD180 in most respects.

NOTE – Radio Trigger options compatible with the Witstro HSS mode can be seen in the post HERE.


The Short Version


For around the price of a full size Canon or Nikon Speedlite, the AD180 puts out around a stop more light, with the broader, and in modifiers, generally softer bare bulb light quality. And that’s light you can really use at full power, unlike speedlights which often need to be run at 1/2 power or less to save from overheating. The AD180 is manual power only, though it has Remote Manual Power Setting, and FP HSS (High Speed Sync) off camera via reliable radio triggers (which is quite a unique feature in a flash unit like this). From my testing you would need at least 2 to 4 regular HSS enabled speedlights to match the one AD180’s light output in HSS.

The AD180 is powered by a Lithium battery pack which always has bucket loads of battery power to spare (up to 900 full power pops with the AD180, and 1800 full pops with a regular speedlite!). Even if you’re not interested in the flash, this little battery pack alone is brilliant. With the AD180 there are no AA batteries to mess around with at all, just the one simple pack that always has power to spare. And it fully charges again in a couple of hours when needed anyway, with one simple plug to the charger, and you can have a few charging at once. You can forget the crazy AA battery management routine altogether with this flash! Its really hard to convey in words just how much that simplifies things, and the time and preparation effort it saves.

Then you have a clear bright LCD screen which is always lit, and a super simple user interface that really puts most speedlites to shame. As well as clear and simple Remote Manual Power Control with positive feedback using good clear sound beeps, and all via reliable radio transmission with around 100m range. Recycle is 2.6 seconds at full power, or a healthy 1.2 seconds with an optional splitter cord, and you can keep that up shot after shot.

This is one well designed and well built, solid little flash unit, that’s very hard not to like. If there are any shortfalls its probably in the trigger system, which is already very functional, but still in the process of further refinement regarding HSS functionality etc. The remote and trigger system are plug in and easily replaceable later (and relatively inexpensive), so that is not a big issue anyway. The flash itself is a solid and well considered design, I would imagine is going to be around for some years to come. As mentioned the simple functionality of the AD180 for off camera use already really puts many speedlites to shame, and the flash unit itself is not that much heavier than a speedlight loaded with AA batteries inside. If you need more power for tackling the sun a 300WS version will also be available mid June.

Note – Remote FP HSS is currently only supported with Canon cameras, and using an optional Godox Cells II radio trigger unit to enable that. But we have found this can actually be used with Nikon cameras now by using some other fairly common radio triggers like the Pixel Kings. More on that bellow under High Speed Sync. I found Light output in HSS mode is up to 2 stops more than a Canon speedlight, so that’s a decent advantage. Likely even more advantage compared to Nikon speedlights which are even lower output in HSS than Canon.

My perspective – I think speedlites are fantasitc for what they are, but for a long time now I’ve been trying to convince manufacturers there could be better small flash units, more purpose built for off camera flash use. Its not necessarily all about bare bulb, though that is certainly one of the options that should be available. Zack Arias even ran a campaign a number of years ago trying to bring back the original 120J, and Edward did mention a few of years ago now that he was going to try and produce a 120j alternative. But that’s all I have heard about it until now.

Last year a number or bare bulb style units started to emerge, but most where pretty average in design, and lucky to even match the light output of a regular speedlite (as that’s not as easy as it seems to acheive). The Godox is the first serious, well designed and well built option to arrive, and it was pretty obvious from the first images appearing that someone behind this flash had a good idea of what they were doing.

Having said all that, this is not quite the format I would have had in mind myself, I still feel a combined (clip on) Lithium battery for example would be ideal in a unit this size, and extremely convenient (there are advantages to this external pack though too). But my point is that some people may just see this flash as a more affordable version of the existing Q-flash, where as I’m coming from a slightly different perspective, I see this as the first serious option in what will be the evolution of more purpose built off camera compact flash units.

I should point out though, although this unit bears a passing resemblance to the Q-flash, it was actually completely designed from scratch, 14 months of development work. There is also a 360 model (307Ws) now avialable which does have a slightly more unique look to it again.


Size and Build


Ok the first thing you notice about this flash when you first get to feel it in your hands, is that its a very solid dense little unit. Probably heavier than expected compared to speedlites, which feel quite hollow in comparison. But once you load a speedlight up with batteries there’s not actually that much difference in the weight of the flash unit itself. Adding a radio trigger with AA batteries and you’re almost equal in weight and size.

The next thing that stands straight out, is how smooth the motion of the tilt swivel head is and how it locks into place very solid. The one simple button gives you smooth free tilt and swivel, and locks firmly on release. That combined with the solid weight and feel of the unit makes it pretty obvious this is in a different class to your average speedlite.

The weight of the AD180 flash unit itself is not all that much more than a regular speedlight with AA batteries inside, 496g vs 633g.

With a radio trigger like the YN-622C shown bellow (which provides remote power control and HSS, like the AD180 has), and weight and size is almost the same.

Another profile view shown here.

Complete combined with battery pack there’s still not a big weight difference, and that’s considering the flash has twice the power, and the battery pack contains double the pops (up to 900) even with the larger flash unit, compared to around 450 – 500 for the speedlite and 8 AA pack.

The Lithium Battery pack alone is about 30% extra weight, but once again capacity with an equivalent flash is over 3 times as much. Up to 1800 full power pops with a regular speedlight, compared to around 450 – 500 for the 8 AA pack.




The AD180 interface is extremely simple and user friendly. I put everything to the idiot test now and see how far I can get operating the interface without looking at the instruction manual first. And the AD180 passed with flying colors, which means it’s easily intuitive enough that you could pass it straight to a friend or colleague and have them using it just fine without any great instructions at all.

One thing that doesn’t come across in the images is that the LCD is very crisp and bright, easy to view, and constantly lit (unlike many speedlites where you have to battle with crazy custom functions just to keep it on for 60 seconds or so) –


Power levels range from full power down to 1/128, in 1/3rd stops. Swiveling the dial changes the power level instantly, and it stops at top and bottom power level (which I much prefer to scrolling in an endless loop).

Admittedly the dial is not the biggest or greatest, and it can stick sometimes if you try to rotate quickly in both directions pushing on the one edge. The trick I found for easy use, is to simply push it from opposite edges to rotate in opposite directions. Chances are though you are going to adjust the power from the remote control unit most of the time anyway. The other buttons are very firm, and easy to use and access.


Navigating the interface is really very simple. Pressing the MODE button scrolls through the 4 modes available –

RPT or Repeat / Stroboscopic mode is the only place you need to make a few adjustments and press the SET button to move to then next setting. Note – power level must be set fairly low first if you want to increase the number of times the flash will strobe.


The fifth mode is “H – Mode” or FP HSS (High Speed Sync). To enter HSS you need to press the MODE and SET button at the same time. This can easily be done with one thumb though, by pressing the MODE button down, and then rolling across to press the SET button then as well.

To cancel HSS simply press the MODE button again and your back to Manual mode again.

That’s literally all there is to the control panel, the other buttons are just MF – for the AF assist light, and BUZZ – for turning the sound beep on and off.

No crazy custom functions to dig through at all, or annoying sleep time modes, or any of those things that have become common place with many over complicated speedlites now. Just a super simple user friendly interface real photographers will appreciate.

Another handy thing I should note is that the flash turns on and off automatically as you switch the battery pack on and off. That’s often very handy as the battery pack is often mounted lower or more accessible than the flash itself. (You can also have the battery pack switched on, and switch the flash off via its own on/off button, so the battery pack and another flash connected to it can still be running).


Remote Manual Power Control


Hallelujah ! Finally a speedlite(ish) flash with simple Remote Manual Power Control !

And this is the best kind too. Although the transmitter unit combines a flash trigger (to fire the flash as well if desired), the remote power setting is still separate from the flash fire signal. So there are no pre-flashes and delay like you get with many TTL systems (even in manual). And the transmitter can then also be used hand held, simply as a remote power control unit (so you can still use your existing radio triggers separately to fire the flash).

Again this system is so simple and user friendly it really puts many of the current speedlight and TTL radio triggers (often used just to achieve the same result) to shame. You have instant access to the + and – power adjustments, and a nice clear sound beep lets you know very clearly that the adjustment is being made on the flash. That’s so much more simple and user friendly than many TTL triggers, which take longer to make an adjustment, and then you have no feedback that the change has actually gone to the flash. I never have to check the AD180’s LCD as I know its already updated to the changes I have set. That’s really helpful when the flash is buried inside an Apollo softbox for example. 

The  Godox FT-16 transmitter and FTR-16 receiver are an optional radio based remote control and trigger system, with range around 100 metres. This is not quite a radio receiver built into the flash, but then next best thing, and possibly better in some ways as it can be easily updated down the track.

The receiver attaches to the side of the flash via USB port, instead of the flash foot, which takes the physical stress off that connection. And like a built in receiver it has no extra batteries to mess with as its powered by the flash unit itself. So its also very lightweight and compact.

TheFT-16 are 433MHz, which is not generally what people want to hear these days (as 2.4GHz triggers have generally proven much better range and reliability, and are free to use worldwide), but I have tested these easily to 100 metres, which is clearly a lot more than the 20 – 30 meters maximum you would expect from many of the poor quality ebay triggers, which the 433MHz band is often associated with. So the FT-16 are still fairly decent triggers with good range, and they have never even hinted towards any random or misfires.

NOTE – Godox have confirmed the current 433MHz triggers are both FCC and CE approved, and there are no restrictions using them worldwide.

I’ll go into the radio trigger side of things in more detail further down though, for now this is looking at the remote power control.


Ok, for off camera use, the radio based remote control unit is likely to be the main control used. The FT-16 transmitter unit is again very simple and user friendly, probably a lot more simple than it looks.

You have 16 channels, and 16 groups. Channels are the small dip switches, which are only changed really if someone else is close by with the same system, or possibly if you experience some interference on a certain channel.

The Groups are controlled vial the large dials, allowing you to control up to 16 different sets of lights individually (and very quickly). The group dial looks a little confusing with both letter and number markings around the edge, but they are all just the same type of groups. Simply set the receiver to a certain group (letter or number), and when the transmitter dial is set to the corresponding group, you can then adjust that flash unit remotely.

Settings or power levels change instantly on the flash as you adjust them on the remote, and if you have the sound indicator (beep) turned on you have a clear indication that the flash power is changing even when you can’t see the flash. This is extremely handy when the flash is mounted inside an Apollo stlye softbox for example, or anywhere you can’t see the LCD screen. You have that simple solid positive confirmation the flash power has changed to match what you see on the transmitter screen.

The + and – buttons are quite small (as is the LCD screen), given the chance I would super-size them, but for now its all completely usable without any complaints there. Remote power setting is a breeze otherwise compared to many current systems.

Each group can be set to a different power level, or to OFF, as shown below. And those settings are all saved in the transmitter unit, even when it has been switched off, or the batteries have been removed (2 standard AA batteries).

On the transmitter unit above you can also remotely turn on the sound beep “BUZZ” or the manual AF assist light “LAMP”. And they can be set separately for each group. Left bellow shows the BUZZ symbol displayed under the power level, and centre is the LAMP.



NOTE – Just to be clear, if the FT-16 transmitter is being used to fire the flashes (not just hand held as a remote power control) all groups will always fire regardless of where you have the group dial positioned, unless you set a groups power level to zero, which reads OFF (shown above right).


The flashes display updates instantly to correspond with what you see on the transmitter units LCD .

As mentioned the remote / transmitter unit can be used hand held off camera, completely separate to the trigger system.

The one thing that is unfortunately missing from the FT-16 remote unit above, is a button to turn the HSS function on and off remotely. As I’ll discuss further down, the HSS function has clearly evolved after the trigger system, so a few things are slightly out of place there. And you also require another Cells II transmitter unit to use FP HSS for now. But lack of remote control for switching the HSS on and off is likely the most unfortunate omission for now (if you use HSS). That’s’ still not any major issue though, I’m just glad they have included the HSS function now, as people can be making good use of it.

Another omission is a simple lanyard loop (considering you would be more likely to hand hold this unit at some stage), and a sync port. But as I will go into more in HSS and triggering, there is bound to be an updated transmitter down the track anyway. This one does the job quite well for now.

One other small thing to note – if you are using multiple cameras (at a wedding or similar) and firing the same set of lights with both cameras, it may be better to use just the one FT-16 hand held, or mounted on one camera. Otherwise you need to remember to update the power settings on both FT-16, or the lights will keep changing power unexpectedly as you swap cameras.


Receiver mounting


The FTR-16 receive unit is surprisingly small and lightweight, I was really surprised at just how small it is. But the clever fold-away flash drive style USB connection underneath has the receiver mounted fairly precariously out the side of the flash. I can’t help but think a much more flush mounting receiver would be possible with a fixed USB connection.

This same receiver will also work with many of Godox’s upcoming studio lights (they already have a new Einstein like alternative which is getting a lot of attention), so the receiver is a universal design for now. I just think this flash, being much more of a portable design you will handle a lot more, warrants a dedicated flush mounting receiver design.

Don’t get me wrong though, this is still a much better solution than shoe mounted receivers or extra cords etc. This is most of the advantages of a built in receiver, with the added ability to update the trigger system completely down the track.

The receiver attaches to the side of the flash via the USB port socket –


The folding USB connector underneath the receiver allows it to pivot away from the flash or rest up against it.

The fold away USB connector is great for transport, and I’m generally obsessed with how compact things will fold away, but in this case (and as nice as this one is) I think a flush fitting receiver would be a preferable option.

Light Output and Quality


The short answer is the AD180 generally puts out around a stop more light than a full sized speedlight. Also covering a broader area, and producing a softer light in most modifiers. Keep in mind though, as soon as you start trying to diffuse a speedlite to recreate results more like the bare bulb, power quickly decreases further. So the AD180 really is a good step ahead on equal terms.

The light output of the bare bulb is very different to a speedlite fresnel though, and sometimes it is difficult to even compare them directly. You really need to compare them in the context of the light pattern and qualities as well. The reflector used with the bare bulb is also quite critical to the light output.

The results below are all AD180 left and YN-568EX right (unless stated otherwise). Note the YN-568EX has a cooler colour temperature than Canon and Nikon speedlites, so the difference is exaggerated here. Though the AD180 is still a little warmer than the Canon Speedlite.


AD180 with standard bare 28 degree reflector, vs YN-568EX set to 28mm zoom.

It may not be easy to see in the image here, but the AD180 is a stop brighter over most of the area, with the broader more even light pattern as seen.

AD180 with standard 28 degree reflector and one frosted diffuser disk, vs YN-568EX with 14mm flip down wide angle diffuser –

AD180 with bare bulb (no reflector), vs YN-568EX with (DIY) Stofen style diffuser cap –


AD180 with standard bare 28 degree reflector, vs YN-568EX set to 28mm zoom, facing the wall.

Note – the speedlite is pretty much at its limits in the frame, where as the AD180 lights a larger area not seen.

The same as above but on an angle to the wall –


Probably most telling though is the comparison in a larger modifier like an umbrella.

This is only a regular size 43″ shoot through umbrella, and already the speedlite (shown bottom) at its widest zoom (24mm) is at its limits and not even covering the full extend of the diffuser. The AD180 (shown top below) covers the complete diffuser, and much more evenly. But it will also cover much larger diffusers and parabolic umbrellas as well.


You can achieve a reasonable result with a couple of speedlites using the flip down wide angle diffusers, but then that’s still a stop of light behind, even with the 2 speedlites.

AD180 left, and 2 YN-568EX mounted on centre with flip out wide angle diffusers right –


I’ve also shot a series of all the zoom length on the YN-568EX speedlite from wide angle diffuser to 105mm, if that may be of interest to help see how the Fresnel and zooming lense effects the light pattern and throw –


Apollo style Umbrella Softboxes

Apollo style umbrella softboxes are really ideal with the AD180. The softboxes are light and fast to pop open, and the remote power control of the AD180 is ideal with the flash hidden inside the softbox. The umbrella softboxes already have fantastic soft light with speedlites, but the bare bulb is more even and softer again.

In the umbrella style softbox the AD180 is straight out a stop ahead of the speedlite.

AD180 no reflector left, vs YN-568EX 24mm zoom right –

Shadows are also much softer with the AD180 no reflector left, vs YN-568EX 24mm zoom right –


Dual Speedlite Comparison – Apollo style Softbox

The question many people have asked, how do dual speedlites compare then in the Apollo style softboxes?

Light output is now similar as you would expect, though with more of a hot spot and the light falling off faster.

AD180 no reflector left, dual YN-568EX 24mm zoom right –

And shadows are harder with the speedlites (right)-


Regular Softboxes

This is where light output can get a little tricky when compared with speedlites. As speedlites can be very efficient as far as light output goes when used in a regular softbox, and facing directly at the front diffuser panel. That’s why I have been designing speedlight to softbox brackets in that configuration for quite a few years. The Apollos produce softer light with speedlites, but sometimes the option of more light is the priority.

In a direct comparison, using a white lined softbox with no speedring insert (which is likely the worst case scenario for the bare bulb in terms of light output), the AD180 (left below) actually put out less light than the YN-568EX speedlight with 24mm zoom (right below) –


This is because the bare bulb is very different to a speedlite with Fresnel lense, and even different to some monolights, because (as you can see in some examples below) the reflector around the bulb is critical to how much light is actually pushed forward. And the AD180 has no reflector built in at all, compared with many lower power studio lights where you will notice the tube is mounted inside a reasonably deep built in reflector already. That reflector narrows the beam, while increasing the light output.

This is the flash with and without reflector, you can see the reflector pushes a lot more light forward to start with (Note – I don’t have the wide angle/umbrella reflector yet so I made a rough DIY version here with cardboard and foil tape) –


This is the comparison in a medium 32″ Photoflex softbox –

– YN-568EX 24mm zoom
– AD180 with no speedring insert
– AD180 with a flat metal insert
– AD180 with my DIY wide angle reflector –


So the flat disk insert at least brought the light output up to the speedlight (though still with more even light spread and softer shadows).

The DIY wide angle reflector gave that extra stop of light again, at the cost of some sligtly harder shadows.

So if you were using a Lastolite style Ezybox in the field for example the, a way to boost the light output without too much loss of quality would likely be to place the wide angle / umbrella reflector on the AD180 once its mounted inside the softbox. When you need softer light again simply remove the reflector.

For regular softbox speedrings, the Chimera speedring insert shown here for example, has a slight concave reflector shape, which would likely cater for fairly large softboxes while still pushing a reasonable amount of light forward.


High Speed Sync – FP HSS


The AD180 allows FP HSS off camera, this is just like the FP HSS Canon or Nikon Speedlites provide. Though the AD180 does have a very unique way of enabling that HSS off camera. And also provides more usable light output, up 2 stops more than a Canon Speedlight (and likely more with Nikon). That’s 2 to 4 Canon speedlights in FP HSS to match this one AD180 unit.

The image bellow is a direct comparison with the AD180 and YN-568EX at full power in FP HSS. There is no ambient light in the images so its only the flash lighting them. And the frame was quite evenly lit as you can see from the first example at 1/125. So the gradient in the other images is what you would get in all images at those settings, though its generally not that noticeable in real images of people etc. Shooting an evenly lit white wall just allows you to see exactly how much light from the flash you will really get in the image, and how even it is across the frame.

HSS Comparison

So above X-sync (1/500th onwards) the AD180 is up to 2 stops brighter than the YN-568EX.

We can see below X-sync (so not in HSS mode) the AD180 is already about 1 stop ahead of the YN-568EX (as we have seen in most of the comparison images above). So there is up to an extra stop of advantage again over the Canon or YongNuo flash after they both move into HSS.

That’s still not huge amounts of power but, but is certainly a decent advantage over a speedlight in HSS, where you often need at least 2 speedlites ganged together to be of much practical use to start with. This is at least closer to 4 speedlites in HSS.



To engage the FP HSS you need a separate transmitter unit, which is currently the Godox Cells II.

The Cells II are currently only available for Canon cameras, and earlier Cells II may not be compatible with the 5D III and later cameras.

NOTE – most Canon DSLR models should now be compatible with the Cells II, though I have had one report of both the 1Ds, and 1D MKIII not firing the flash at all with the Cells II.

A Nikon version Cells II should be available from Godox eventually. Though other radio triggers like the inexpensive YongNuo YN-622N will also work. I have outlined those options in more detail in another post here.

The Cells II must to be mounted directly on the camera hotshoe to enable the FP HSS –

The Cells II has the full TTL contacts on the foot which enable the FP HSS signal from the camera. So its easy to remember this has to be mounted directly on the cameras hotshoe with the full TTL contacts –

So the Cells II Transmitter (Tx) then communicates with the regular receiver attached to the side of the flash via the USB port, firing the flash in sync and in FP HSS mode.

And at the same time power levels are then controlled remotely from the FT-16 held in hand. That also communicates with the same USB mounted receiver mounted on the side of the flash –


So that is all there is too it. Even though you do now have two transmitter units, its still very simple to use.

Its only when you start to look at combining with other existing radio triggers and flash on camera etc, there becomes quite a number of combinations of gear, so I will go into that in another post.

Note – FP HSS does limit the number of consecutive flashes which will activate the flashes overheat protection. At full power that is reduced from 75 shots in a row down to just 10. At half power from 100 down to 15, and 1/4 power from 200 down to 20. If you’re not shooting right as the flash recycles I’m sure that could stretch out a lot more though.


More on combining radio triggers and HSS with the Witstro here.


Flash Duration


I don’t have the equipment needed to measure flash durations, but its fairly clear from what we can see the AD180 is similar to most speedlites which have quite fast flash durations. Like speedlites the AD180 is an IGBT flash, which means at any power level below 1/1, the power to the flash tube is cut off very quickly producing very fast flash durations. So its only the full power duration that may be of concern. Most speedlites are generally around 1/250th to 1/300th of a second at full power, so the AD180 is quite similar. At lower power levels the duration becomes very fast which is ideal for freezing motion as speedlites will do.

At full power from around 1/160th camera shutter speed you do loose about 1/3rd of a stop of light moving to 1/250th. This is quite normal and similar to most speedlites, simply because the flash needs more time to get all of its light out than the time the shutter is open at that speed. The frames bellow are flash only in the image, so the shutter speed should not effect the exposure otherwise.

Flash Duration

I noticed though using the Cells II transmitter, that provides 1/3 of a stop more light in the frame than the FT-16 transmitter (again with the AD180 at full power and 1/250th (X-sync)). So that is worth keeping in mind when trying to underexpose ambient light.


Colour Consistency


Again like speedlites I have not noticed any issue with colour change at different power levels. The specs state only 200 degrees variation across the power range, which is hardly noticeable. And this is consistent with other user reports as well. Again that is likely due to the AD180 being an IGBT flash, like speedlites.




Radio Triggers

I’ll go into more detailed combinations like combining your existing radio triggers in another post. Triggering the AD180 otherwise is simply via the FT-16 or Cells II on the camera hotshoe, and FTR-16 receiver connected to the side of the flash via the USB port. Or using your own choice of radio triggers.

The FT-16 (left below) for regular flash triggering, and remote power level control. The FT-16 can also be used hand held as a remote power control only, and combined with the Cells II, or most other radio triggers, to actually fire the flash.

The Cells II allowing FP HSS off camera, currently with Canon cameras (other triggers can be used with Nikon as discussed under the HSS topic above).


The FT-16 and Cells II are both 433MHz triggers with range around 100m. They have been completely reliable without a hint of misfire or random fires. I tested the range with the test rig you can see here, where I had 4 different receivers all connected to the flash. All 4 receivers reached 100 metres line of sight without any problems. Probably a better indication though was placing the transmitter directly behind my back, where the FT-16, Cells II, and Phottix Strato II, all still made around 50 metres without misfires, while the YN-622C only reached 15 to 20 metres at best. So both the FT-16 and Cells II have very decent range and reliability. Full points for nice large easy to access locking rings too.

Sync speed – The FT-16 is fairly slow, as soon as I pushed past 1/250th (X-sync) there was a lot of black band (or shutter) showing in the image. This shows the FT-16 is only just reaching the 1/250th sync speed. I don’t think this is a big issue though as you would likely be using the Cells II (which are faster), or possibly other radio triggers to actually fire the flash if you were chasing higher sync speeds, or HSS anyway.

At some stage these 2 transmitter units are very likely to be combined into one unit anyway, so I don’t think its much point looking into them in great detail, beyond the fact that they are quite functional as they are now. My suggestion for a new model would hopefully be for Godox to switch completely to a 2.4GHz system. And then have a pass through hotshoe for TTL flash on camera use as well.

NOTE – Godox have confirmed the current 433MHz triggers are both FCC and CE approved, and there are no restrictions using them worldwide.


For TTL flash on camera (with manual AD180’s off camera), as many wedding an even photographers will want to do, there is unfortunately no sync port on the FT-16  (another oversight Godox are aware of). So you have to attach the FT-16 to the cameras PC sync port by adding a hotshoe and sync cord to the FT-16 foot. Here I used a straight bracket under the camera, allowing the FT-16 to mount down to the side and (and near the cameras sync port), while still allowing easy access to the power controls when needed. You could simply strap the FT-16 to the side of your on-camera speedlight though as well.

Sync Ports

The AD180 has two sync ports, as well as the USB socket which is also used as a sync port. Combined with the flash foot, and built in optic slave trigger, that’s 5 ways to sync with the AD180 !

The AD180 has a standard 3.5mm mini-phone sync jack, which is much more reliable than the traditional PC sync port (also provided). Together with the Phottix Mitros and the Lumopro LP-160 flash, this is only the third small flash to adopt this 3.5mm port, and shows once again Godox were really on the ball when designing this flash.

Note – strangely the PC sync port is not a screw type fitting. It has a rather nice taper into the socket, but not a screw thread. In any case the best option is to avoid it all together and just use the 3.5mm mini-phone port above whenever possible.

The flash foot is simple single firing pin only. So FP HSS for example can only be done off camera (where the Cells II transmitter is then connecting to the full TTL contact pins in the camera hotshoe). Note – there is no locking pin on the foot. Not an issue if you use clamping coldshoes anyway, but something to be aware of.

Optic Slave

The AD180 has a built in optic slave, commonly described as “dumb” optic slave, which simply fires the flash in sync when it sees the light from another flash unit.

There is an S1 and S2 Mode. The S2 being a TTL pre-flash ignore, which fires on the second flash pulse, ignoring the first TTL pre-flashes. This allows another flash set to TTL to be used as the triggering flash unit.

The sensor is shown on the right side behind the red lens (AF assist lights are behind the left lens) –


AF Assist Light


The AD180 has a manually activated AF assist light. Which means you have to switch it on and off via the MF button on the flash, or remotely via the LAMP button on the FT-16 remote transmitter.

This is because the flash only has a single firing pin foot, and therefore cannot communicate information like this directly with the camera.

The lamps are just 2 regular LED’s as seen behind the red lens in the image above (left lens). There is no contrast projected, so basically just a regular light with a red tint, and not really all that bright. On camera this is probably better than nothing, but not an ideal AF assist light. Though off camera it can be handy to line up the flash if using a snoot or similar. And turning it on from the camera could be handy to help achieve a focus in very low light. What it does make me think more than anything though, is a brighter LED light used as a modelling light (and taping into this remote control function) could be really useful.


Bare Bulb


The AD180 bulb is rated to 200Watts and UV coated. Unfortunately I don’t think its quite compatible with similar bulbs used for Quantum etc, but don’t quote me on that yet. Godox have spare bulbs available though.

I was a little tentative with handling the bulb at first, but soon realised the outer glass is fairly solid, and the delicate flash tube is safely inside that where you can’t touch it. The end of the outer glass case is open to allow the air to flow through and likely help any heat dissipate.

You simply line up the red dot on the bulb with the dot inside the AD180 flash head and push the bulb into place. Its mounted firmly, but easy to remove as well.

A protecting cover for the bulb is now available as an option as well. That will make it far more convenient to transport and store the flash with the bulb in place, or possibly removing the bulb and storing it inside the cap.


Reflector Mount & Accessories


The reflector mount is compatible with most Quantum, Norman and Lumedyne reflectors, and those used with the Sunpak 120j.

The mount uses a simple rubber pad which presses against the reflector mounting tube, for a simple friction hold on the reflector. You tighten the thumbscrew on the side of the flash head to push the the rubber pad against the reflector. Not having a Q-flash or similar I can’t compare this myself, though others have said it is more secure than the Q-flash mount, which does appear to get a few complaints. I certainly couldn’t pull the reflector out once the clamp was tightened.


Looking at the standard reflector mounting tube it has a slight taper, which would certainly help to stop it from coming out, though it does allow the reflector too tilt down a little in the mount. I don’t know if this could be any issue with the larger modifiers, but I haven’t heard any comments or complaints at this stage.

The standard 5″ (28 degree) reflector comes with a ring that holds one or two frosted diffuser disks, which help to diffuse or spread the light. You could easily sandwich regular coloured gel film between the disks for easy mounting, though coloured disks are available as well. Grids are also available, and the reflector is designed with a stepped collar to stop any direct light escaping around the edges of the grid. Again you can expect a nicer even light pattern from those compared to speedlite grids.

One big advantage of the CL-180 is the ability to mount lightweight modifiers directly to the flash head, with the built in small and lightweight Lumedyne style mount. Cheetah have most of these modifiers available, and they are relatively inexpensive compared to those from Quantum etc. I don’t have these yet but I’m looking forward to trying some, as well as experimenting with making some of my own. There is even a Lumedyne adapter available for custom and experimental modifiers, as the bare bulb is ideal for experimenting with shaping the light.

The 19″ collapsible beauty dish softbox allows a fairly decent size softbox which can easily be hand held with the AD180, and both fold up to a very lightweight and compact kit.

Sports or Telephoto Reflector

A telephoto reflector is one thing Godox do not have available as yet, though Quantum or Norman have versions available. So far we know at least the Quantum will work with the AD180. Both of the reflectors will fit the AD180, but they require a bulb mounting extension which brings the bulb out further in the reflector. At this point we have one report saying the current Quantum extender fits (some earlier versions may not).

The 8″ telephoto reflector provides 2 stops more light (in a narrower beam) than the standard reflector. The AD180 will be ideal for many sports shooters needing a lightweight kit, like bmx, skateboarding and mountain biking etc, and the telephoto reflector could be a real advantage there sometimes.


Umbrella Mount


The AD180 has a clever optional umbrella mount. This was designed as a detachable mount so that the flash head would still be small enough to fit through openings like the common Bowen’s speedring insert/mount. The wide angle umbrella reflector has a corresponding hole allowing the flash bulb to be very close to the umbrella shaft, and centred in the umbrella.

Godox AD180

The umbrella mount comes with the wide angle reflector, and that reflector is one accessory you really need if you intend to use any umbrellas etc.

There is also a 43″ double fold shoot through umbrella available, made specifically to fit the umbrella mount securely. It doesn’t show in the image but it has a nice fairly flat front surface. At 16″ folded, again this provides a super compact lightweight kit which could also be hand held. And a nice big really soft light. That’s some nice light for a kit you can put in your camera bag.

I think that is the most I would use the built in umbrella mount for though personally. Unless the mount is designed to break off before anything else on the flash is damaged, I would personally avoid putting to much load on it. Just in case there is an accident or gust of wind etc, and the flash has to wear all the stress.

For mounting in larger softboxes and modifiers the AD180 will fit most regular speedlite brackets.

Godox now also have the S-Type Bracket for Bowen’s and Elinchrom mounts.


Godox S-type Speedlite Bracket


The AD180 is ideal to use inside umbrella softboxes, and just in time is one of my own bracket designs, now available from Phottix. The Multi Boom 16″ mounts the flash head in the centre of the softbox, as well as allowing 2 or more flashes to be mounted (or a place to mount the battery pack). And also provides fast, easy, and full tilt motion of the softbox, which is normally very limited otherwise.

The AD180 comes with a small base stand, and like the flash unit its built extra solid. With the brass 1/4 20″ threaded mounted hole it should be fine to use as a cold shoe for mounting to umbrella swivels etc as well. Though note the stand has a locking pin hole, but the flash does not have the safety locking pin, so take care that the flash is really locked down securely!

Modelling Light


The Witstro was originally intended to have LED modelling lights. I think that was likely left off due to time and costs. Norman have reflectors with built in modelling lamp though –

With LED lights constantly improving at the moment, it may be better that it wasn’t built in. I think a small clip on LED light unit could be used in a number of reflectors, or even bare, when the flash head is point the opposite direction for example. What would be nice though is to tap into the remote control currently used for the  AD180 AF assist light, so you could turn a larger modelling light on and off as needed from the camera. I didn’t think much previously of the idea of modelling lights on a battery powered flash, but with LED’s getting better, if the AD180 did have a decent one available, larger monolights would probably hardly get used at all for many people.


Flash on Camera


I’m personally more interested in the AD180 for off camera use, though its completely capable and practical as a fully manual flash on camera if you’re happy with that. People have commented Godox should have at least added a simple Auto exposure mode (like the original flashes before TTL), which certainly would have made the AD180 considerably more on-camera friendly. But I think its fairly obvious Godox have bigger plans for this flash down the track, and full TTL version is likely to come at some stage anyway. That is just my own speculation, but the signs are there. For now its quite usable as a manual flash on-camera, you have to carry the battery pack on your belt or shoulder, but then the flash itself is not that much heavier than a regular speedlight on the camera, and with twice the output.



PB960 Lithium Battery Pack


The Godox PB 960 battery pack is brilliant. Even if you may not be interested in the flash, this battery pack is something to look out for. It will do up to 900 full power pops with the AD180, and up to 1800 full pops with a regular speedlite. And its designed to run 2 separate flashes without reducing recycle time. Which is around one second with speedlites, and 2.6 with the AD180 at full power. Godox have just released a 2 into 1 splitter cord (as seen further down below) which connects one flash to both battery ports, roughly halving the recycle times again. Godox even have 1 into 2 splitter cords available, so that you can run up to 4 flashes off this one small pack! (and recycle times are still quite fast).

The pack has an ON / OFF button which turns the AD180 flash on and off as well (very handy when you can’t reach the flash easily), and bright LED battery level indicator. Which is very handy, as this little pack holds so much charge you would never know when it actually needed a recharge otherwise. Recharging only takes a few hours, and there are separate clip on batteries available so you could have more charged up if ever needed.

The pack is smaller than I expected, and comes with a belt clip which you could very practically use for flash on camera (or hand holding an off camera flash).

The actual Lithium battery pack quickly clips on and off, so you can have spares charged and ready to swap.

The cords are 5 pin DIN plugs, which are compatible with the Quantum packs, and becoming quite standard with most battery packs which use plug in cords. The Godox have a locking collar though (which some packs don’t have) and that really helps to make sure the plugs don’t pull out. Using a stiff coiled cord like this its easy to pull the cords out quite often accidentally otherwise.

On the flash end of the power cord, its also held in quite tightly with a spring clip.

The one thing that is a little annoying about the socket though is that it is a proprietary design. Its fairly close to the Canon plug / socket but not quite the same. This could possibly be to stop you plugging in a Canon style CP-E4 battery pack, because unfortunately we have tried an off brand version of those (by modifying the plug to fit) and they still won’t work in the AD180 flash. That appears to be because those style of speedlite packs require a signal from the flash to turn the power on, where as the PB960 has power live at the end of the plug as soon as you turn it on. Other Quantum packs do work with the AD180. Another option is also the Godox PB820 which is 8 AA NiMH cells inside like a CP-E4 etc anyway.

This is the Godox plug left, and Canon Plug right. The pins are in the same position, but you have to shave some off the outer edges of the Canon plug to fit it into the AD180. Fitting the Godox plug into the Canon flash would be harder, taking some more work to cut that indent on the side.

Why do we care about this?, well in general the Godox cords are well made and well priced, so there’s no need to avoid them. Its only when you may be after a cord they don’t have, you can’t buy an alternative cord to fit the AD180 end from anyone else. So modifying a Canon version cord may be an alternative if needed. Maybe Godox could possibly offer a Godox to Canon adapter later (as Phottix have just done with their Mitros flash).

The standard coiled cord that comes with the flash is ideal for hand holding the flash, or flash on camera with the pack on your belt.

But when you mount the battery on a light stand you tend to want to mount it to the lowest riser so that you can move the stand up and down as needed without the pack being in the way. In this case the coiled cord is often too short, and you put a lot off tension on it if you stretch it too much. The current alternative is a 5 meter straight cord. That would help, but 2.5 metres would be more than enough length.

Another option (with or without a longer cord) is a good easy to use clamp for the stand. This may sound trivial, but a good simple clamp would make all the difference in the convenience of using this flash. You really want to be able to clip the battery pack on and off easily with one hand (as you likely have the flash in the other). Otherwise you have to keep pulling the cord out of the flash or pack, which requires both hands, and doesn’t do them a lot of good if you’re doing that too often. There are a few clamps available from Quantum and Photogenic etc already.


Splitter cords – There is a new 2 into 1 splitter cord which connects one flash to both batter ports, roughly halving the recycle times of the flash again (should be available late May).

There are also a similar, but opposite, 1 into 2 splitter cords which allow 2 flashes to be connected to each battery port, so up to 4 flashes connected to each battery pack. Obviously that will have some reduction in recycle time (though still quite fast).

Godox DB-02


David Freedman posted his average test times with the 2 into 1 cord here shown above –


Finally, the PB960 Battery pack comes with a really nice padded shoulder strap. The pack is fairly light, but the strap really is a nice and comfortable inclusion if you are carrying the battery over the shoulder. And it clips off just leaving the short straps on the battery pack.

(PB 960 Lithium Battery Pack


  • Battery pack  –  Lithium battery (11.1V/4500mAH)
  • Battery charging time  –  Approx. 3 hours
  • Flash charging time  –  Approx. 2.6 second (full power AD180), 1 second (full power speedlite)
  • Flash time  –  Approx. 900 times (full power AD180), 1800 times (full power speedlite)
  • Overall dimension  –  159 x 133.5 x 49.2mm
  • Weight  –  560g


Specs AD180


Model Godox AD180
Flash energy 153WS
Flash Index 60m (ISO 100, using a standard reflector)
-top use, the standard reflector flash covers the range of about 28mm
Up and down the angle of rotation -15 ° -90 °
Left and right rotation angle 0-270 °
Power supply Godox PB960, PB820
Number of flashes 900 times (full power Godox PB960)
Recycle time Approximately 0.05-2.6s (PB960)
Color Temperature 5600 ± 200k
Flash duration 1/300s-1/10000s
Volume 205 * 90 * 70 mm (excluding lamps and reflectors)
Net weight 610g




There is now an AD360 version which is 307WS .

Weight is approximately 600 grams (21 ounces) vs 830 grams (29-1/4 ounces ).

You can see a comparison of the size in the images bellow. The 360 also has a flat base now without the hotshoe foot (the hotshoe base is still available though) so it will actually sit lower than the 180.

If you’re intending to tackle bright ambient light often, the 360 model may be the way to go. At 830 grams is still be quite easy to hand hold, and with another stop of light even HSS is very usable.


Godox AD180 AD360




If you already know this is the type of light your after, you’re not going to be disappointed with the AD180. From all indications Godox have built this very well. Only time will tell how well it does stand up over time, but the performance so far inspires a lot of confidence.

If you’re looking at speedlites mainly for off camera use, and you know you’re likely to be using a battery pack anyway, the AD180 is definitely worth considering as well. For around the price of the high end speedlites, you get more light, nicer light, no overheating, lots more battery power, and more user friendly interface and remote control. The AD180 can save a lot of time and hassles compared to other speedlite, battery, and trigger systems, having lots more pieces of gear and AA batteries to manage. The remote system could use some updates, but they are aware of that, and its still very good as it is. If anything remote control to switch HSS on and off would be the first on my wish list. I’m looking forward to experimenting with making modifiers etc, so there will likely be more to come on this flash.


Price and Availability


The AD180 and AD360 kits are available from around $300 and $400 respectively –

Amazon –  AD180, AD360PB960  UK –  AD180, AD360, PB960

Ebay – AD180, AD360PB960, $25 trigger set.

Adorama – FlashPoint Streaklight

B&H Photo – Bolt VBInterfit Strobies Pro-Flash


Also See the follow up post –Radio Triggers and HSS.


  1. photo-fotograf 5 years ago

    hi,i hear some roumors that there will be in late 2014. TTL version of godox AD360,is it correct?
    Because i will wait for TTL version if it is true!

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 5 years ago

      Hi photo-fotograf,

      Yes the TTL version Witstro should be unveiled at Photokina in just a couple of weeks.

      When they will actually be available may be another question though. Hopefully not too long after. Thanks.

  2. Luca 5 years ago

    Hi, I was really happy to hear about new Phottix idra , but I was wondering if this Photokina 2014 edition would bring us any Wistro 360 (or more) TTL / RS 600 (or more) TTL HSS flash. : )

    Please if you have any news like them share them with us! 😀


    • Author
      Flash Havoc 5 years ago

      Hi Luca,

      I haven’t seen if Godox have any TTL Witsro to show at Photokina, Though its looking very much like they are not ready to officially announce at this stage unfortunately.

      They were originally expecting early next year for these, and Photokina may have been a little over ambitious. I suspected even if they announced them now there would still be some time before they are actually available.

      It sounds like the Witstro AR400 will be available soon though.

  3. T Salaz 5 years ago

    I’m sorry i read this review and are all the different brands the same quality , i noticed ebay is 200 cheaper then the B&H version, just curious , and also i wanted to know if the wireless remote will work if i combine a 360 and a 180 from the godex brand, B&h says i can’t combine the 2 lights the 180 is the only one that works with there remote trigger,

    last question , i shoot both canon and fuji at this point i just want to make sure its not brand specific and i can use it with my fuji if i want.

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 5 years ago

      Hi T Salaz,

      Yes all the FT-16 transmitter and receiver units are exactly the same inside, and compatible with each other.

      On some units the groups are printed or marked differently around the selection dial though. As long as the dial is in the same position on transmitter and receiver they will communicate as normal though regardless of brand.

      Yes you can use the FT-16 on Fuji fine. They are single firing pin and not brand specific. The only brand specific part is the HSS function.

  4. Luca 5 years ago

    I can just suppose that controller (trigger) are exactly the same, just rebranded with different names.
    Of course it’s just my idea, but I’ve seen for example Wistro and Cheetah versions and they look really the same even for the transmitter and receiver, TO ME factory seems to be the same for both. 🙂

    Btw I’m still wishing in some great news about any newer (& maybe even more powerful) HSS/ TTL versions of this AD360 or RS600p for new year! 😀

  5. Luca 5 years ago

    Thank you very much for your reply.

    Well, I guess I should wait for next months for news about flashes with those features, meanwhile maybe i’ll go for a RS 600 p. 😉

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 5 years ago

      Hi Luca,

      Yes I doubt there will be any major features added to the RS600P for a while, as that is fairly new model. Eventually they should probably go IGBT / TTL / HSS etc as well, but that may be a way down the track.

  6. Mikhail 5 years ago

    Hey FH, do you know where or how I can get this flash repaired? I was on a photo shoot and it was attached to a light stand that fell over and the neck of it broke. The flash still functions but It’s not very stable any more. I contacted Ed at Cheetahstand and sent him photos of it but he said that he couldn’t fix it. I could always just crazy glue together but I’d rather have it done right 😀

    Thanks in advance!

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 5 years ago

      Hi Mikhail,

      That’s a bummer. Sorry no I don’t know if there is anywhere that would be able to fix that. It would probably cost more than you could pick up another flash body anyway.

      JB weld may be the way to go. It its too bad it may even be worth doing a remote head conversion, as in take the head off completely, and run a long cord to the flash tube.

      • Mikhail 5 years ago

        Ok, thanks for that! It’s not a big deal since it still works and I literally never turn the flash head once it’s set up so it stays in the same position all the time anyway. Thanks again!

  7. T Salaz 5 years ago

    Im pretty confident in this decision i think i am going to sell my canon 600 ex rt system and buy the 180 and the 360 models of this….i run into lack of power with my canon system and if i ever change camera bodies or brands i want my lights to go with me, and to add another 600 exrt light is 500 bucks every time, i don’t really use high speed sync much , but minus that can you tell me what features i might lose if i decide to go this route , i 95 percent of the time shoot manual and i figure if the triggers get updated that might add the ettl functions in the future, but is there something i am missing ? seems like a smart move but I’m not sure if i might be shooting myself in the foot.

    • Mikhail 5 years ago

      I switch from my Canon lighting system and have not looked back! This system is much faster to use and setup. The wireless system for Canon is great but the button pressing needed to make changes to different lights is much much slower than turning a dial on this. Yes, you lose ETTL but in my opinion that’s a compromise worth making because of its inconsistency anyway. These lights are AMAZING! The only thing that would make it better would be if they updated the remote system to allow high speed sync. They are awesome, I can’t see anyone regretting getting them!

      • T Salaz 5 years ago

        thanks for the reply, i think i have made the decision to get these and maybe buy a small hot shoe flash for walk around events if these end up being too big for that type of handheld situation .

        • Mikhail 5 years ago

          No problem. Another thing, and this is just my opinion but, I would skip the 180 version and go straight for the 360. It’s more power and it can be dialed down if needed for less light and the price is dropping to a good spot now. But again, that’s just ME.

  8. John.C 5 years ago

    I have 3 Godox V850s which I put on a Lastolite Triflash in a Softbox which works really fine. I can put all my stuff into my backbag (love the portability)

    Sometimes I need just abit more power. So would it be better if I replace those 3 flashes with one AD360/PB960/Splitcord?

    Its still important to me that it fits into my bag easily.

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 5 years ago

      Hi John,

      Its a bit of a hard call. The AD360 are around the power of 4 speedlites, so you will likely gain around 3/10ths of a stop with the AD360.

      The 3 speedlites would definitely pack more compact, though the AD360 kit will likely still fit into your backpack. The splitter cord can be a bit of a space waster if you don’t unplug it from the pack.

      With the new AR400 ringlight Witstro being an all in one unit, I’m really hoping Godox are building an all in one regular Witstro 360 as well, as that would save a lot of space and set up time etc. I’d be surprised if they are not planning something like this eventually, whether is something on the cards any time soon I don’t know though.

      To answer your question though, if you don’t use the speedlites separately at times, then I would personally pack the one Witstro. The V850 are still incredibly practical flashes though.

  9. Ricardo G 5 years ago

    Any word on the integration of the transmitter and power/control unit? I would love to have the AD360 for my simpler photo shoots. The portability, power, HSS and light quality would be amazing. But the TWO little devices to control power and transmission. That’s simply ridiculous and the only thing stopping me from getting one.

  10. Ricardo G 5 years ago

    Sorry, I meant the Cells II. The HSS functionality should be built into the power-control unit.

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 5 years ago

      Hi Ricardo,

      Godox are working on a complete new trigger system, that’s a big task which needs to account for a lot of forward planning etc, as it very likely has to integrate the coming TTL models as well.

      Godox did not unveil the TTL Witsro models at Photokina as they had planned, so its pretty obvious this all has a way to go yet. Sometime next year would be the best I could estimate.

      I doubt we will see any minor updates in the mean time. I can’t confirm this, but there has been a lot of talk that the Cells II will be, or have been, discontinued as well. So options like the YN-622C etc would need to be used for the HSS mode.

      • Ricardo G 5 years ago

        Thanks for the update! Hope it really works well. It’s a great portable setup.

  11. T Salaz 5 years ago

    for anyone that wants to know, these lights are awesome, currently selling my 600 ex rt’s and going to buy the godox speed light with the LI ION batt , these lights are amazing i love the light quality and output , only thing is i shoot dance so flash duration might be an issue but thus far i have been shooting at 160th of a second and catching minimal to no motion blur at F9 or so in a soft box with the 360 ( I shoot dance photography) so far zero complaints , i am considering buying another 360 , couldnt be happier with these lights.

    • FZH 5 years ago

      Hi T, thanks for your post – I am planning to purchase 360 and I photo shoot pets (dogs more specifically). So fast flash duration is important to me. Just wondering why do you think “flash duration might be an issue”?
      Thanks in advance!

  12. Tor Ivan 5 years ago

    Nice review!
    You say “So FP HSS for example can only be done off camera (where the Cells II transmitter is then connecting to the full TTL contact pins in the camera hotshoe – See more at: http://flashhavoc.com/godox-witstro-ad180-ad360-review/#sthash.R2YrKQIw.dpuf

    So that means that using only YN-622 tranceiver wont work for HSS? I have to use the godox receiver as well?

    • Tor Ivan 5 years ago

      hmm. cant edit the post.

      my thought was to use the godox in conjunction with my nikon speedlights, YN-622 and YN-622 TX.
      but that seems impossible if I still have to use the godox trigger for HSS? since the TX doesnt have a hot shoe for pass through.

      • Author
        Flash Havoc 5 years ago

        Hi Tor,

        You don’t have to use the Godox triggers for HSS. You can use only the YN-622 if you like, provided you attach a YN-622N as receiver to the flash.

        The YN-622N-TX / YN-622N are firing the flash then (with HSS). But you can also use the Godox FT-16 transmitter and FTR-16 receiver separately just to change power levels remotely on the flash. The FT-16 transmitter does not need to be attached to anything then, you can hold it in hand, or put it in your pocket etc.

      • Bryan 5 years ago

        Do the YN-622C-TX / YN-622-C also work with these, or is it just the 622N?

        • Author
          Flash Havoc 5 years ago

          Hi Bryan,

          The YN-662C-TX / YN-622C will work with the Witstro as well.

          These are only firing the flash though, there is no remote control at all through the YN-622. You would still need the FT-16 transmitter and FTR-16 receiver as well to remotely change manual power levels.

          The YN-622C-TX / YN-622C are providing the early (pre-sync) fire signal to allow HSS to work.

          If you don’t want to use YN-622C receivers on each flash as well, you can also just link up the YN-622C and the FT-16 transmitters on the camera as seen in this post.

  13. FZH 5 years ago

    Hi Flash Havoc,

    Firstly of all, great review – thanks for the hard work!
    I asked this to TSalaz but also want to ask for your opinion please…. do you think 360 would be able to handle action? My original plan was to purchase Einstein 640 but found out that they don’t sell overseas. Godox seems to have something similar to Einstein 640 but it is too heavy for outdoor shooting. So I am looking at 360. Appreciate your response…

  14. Ed 5 years ago

    Hello, I purchased a Wistoro AD360 unit. The bulb in the unit went bad after only a few times of usage. I purchased and installed a new bulb and now the unit will only trigger the bulb at random times (mostly not). The battery is fully charged and unit has not been damaged and/or dropped. I have reached out to numerous places for repair options however no one has provided any helpful information. Can you advise if there is something I can do to help fix this, or any options for a repair?

    Here is a video of the unit and what happens:

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 5 years ago

      Hi Ed,

      I’m not aware of any repair options at this stage, you would generally need to exchange the unit. Have you contacted the place you purchased the flash from?

  15. Bruce 5 years ago

    Hi have a 1DX and a AD360. I am wanting to use it in HSS mode and from what I have read, I am able to do this with my YN-622c triggers. If I understand correctly, I have to have a transmitting YN-622 on camera and then also connect a receiving N-622 to the AD360 via a PC sync cord – My question is – Do I have to connect the PC sync cord to the AD360 PC sync port or can I use the 3.5mm jack?

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 5 years ago

      Hi Bruce.

      That is correct. You can use either the PC sync port or the 3.5mm jack on the AD360, they both do the same thing.

      If you happen to use a YN-622C-TX as the transmitter though, then you can actually mount the AD360 directly on the YN-622C receiver hotshoe and still get HSS. Its only a YN-622C as transmitter that need the PC sync cord from the receiver for HSS.

      Also if you don’t want to attach a YN-622C receiver to the AD360 at all, you can connect an FT-16 transmitter to the YN-622C transmitter on the camera hotshoe via a PC sync cord to hotshoelike this.

  16. Alex 4 years ago

    Hi, will I be able to use the Pocketwizard II or III to hss trigger the 360? Or does it need the mini TT1. Thank you!

  17. Mike 4 years ago

    just curios to know what would be the f value for a given distance & settings for Canon 600ex rt, ad180 & ad360. Cos canon also seems to give its 600rt guide no as 60, so do the ad180.

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 4 years ago

      Hi Mike,

      The AD180 and AD360 being bare bulb have a very different light pattern and projection to the Canon Speedlite.

      The standard reflector though is at the wider end of the speedlite zoom around 35mm I think.So comparing the 600EX-RT at 35mm zoom to the AD180 and AD360, they are 1 stop and 2 stops ahead respectively.

      The 600EX-RT can zoom up to 200mm though which provides a brighter light in a much smaller area, and to match this with the Witstro you would need a high output reflector, which is not really available at the moment (you can use a Quantum or Norman reflector, but a bulb extender is need which doesn’t fit the Witstro).

      Also in a softbox the AD180 tends to produce around the same output as the 600EX-RT as per the samples in the post.

      They are different types of lights, but if you’re really mainly after more power than the speedlite the AD360 is the way to go.

  18. Mark Kitaoka 4 years ago

    Thank you for a very comprehensive review. I have purchased the Neewer brand model, the 360. My only issue is I received one of the ‘bad batteries’ which failed just after the 30 day Amazon return period. I am using mine with an Elinchrom Rotalux 39″ Deep Octa and it performs well. Thanks again for a very fine review.

  19. Keano 4 years ago

    Hi. Reading above about the regular sized softboxes. Which I would use you recommend using a reflector in the softbox right? Would the one that comes with the 360 be ok?

    Also I am a nikon user is the 622N to fire in HSS or turn it on remotely?

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 4 years ago

      Hi Keano,

      The regular reflector doesn’t have a very wide beam. The Godox umbrella reflector is really the narrowest you would generally want to go, unless the softbox is pretty deep (or relatively small size / diameter).

      With the regular reflector it wouldn’t matter how large the softbox was, as you would still be lighting the same portion of the front diffuser as with a smaller softbox (assuming they were the same depth).

      The reflector is just trying to increase the light output though (or make the light more efficient for more pops etc). Though it really depends on the softbox as to how much difference it will make, if any. The Glow ParaPop for example being silver lined and parabolic don’t appear to have much gain at all when adding the reflector (as they pretty efficient anyway). So it just depends on the softbox, I was using a white lined softbox in the post above which are the least efficient on their own.

      Regarding the HSS, no radio triggers can currently turn the H-mode HSS on and off remotely, that needs to be done directly on the flash.

      If you find you’re mainly using full power in HSS mode though, it can actually be better to leave the H-mode off, and just use the long flash duration at full power to provide the constant light source for HSS. So you use the same HSS triggering method, but leave H-mode off, as set the flash to full power. That way there is no need to turn the H-mode on and off anyway.

      Using the YN-622N you either need to mount a YN-622N transmitter on the camera, and attach a YN-622N receiver to the flash, or simple mount the Godox FT-16 transmitter on top of the YN-622N transmitter on the camera, as discussed here.


      I don’t know if you saw, but the Rovelights are now also on sale ($120 off), I added to the post here.

      The Rovelights use the long duration sync method for HSS all the time. They are designed for this though so they can actually be used this way at lower power levels as well.

      So there is no desperate need to turn the HSS mode on and off, as leaving it on does not stress or overheat the flash tube. They also have a lot more power. They are not lightweight though, and do not integrate as nicely with the Godox or other speedlites and transmitter.

  20. Jz 4 years ago

    How does the B&H BOLT compare? do you recommend that one and can it do HSS?

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 4 years ago

      Hi Jz,

      The Bolt units are exactly the same as the Godox, they are just another re-brand. So yes they can do HSS just the same with the appropriate transmitter units.

      Adorama currently have the Flashpoint StreakLight version on sale for around $200 less, so this deal is hard to beat anywhere while it lasts.

  21. keano 4 years ago

    I saw this and it makes sense with light: http://www.adorama.com/CMSRLYN.html so (new) this hold a bowens softbox?
    Is this to only block light falling out back or is this a speeding for Bowens soft boxes? New to this….

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 4 years ago

      That is a standard speedring you can use generally in any professional grade softbox. So most softboxes that require you to purchase the speedring separately.

      Some of the cheaper softboxes with come with their own speedring do not have all standard 8mm rod ends, or the same rod lengths needed.

      Dave has put together a clever little DIY kit there using the Manfrotto base, and a small piece of 16mm aluminium rod. It will still set you back around $100 though, or more with the swivel included.

      Those speedrings are a composite type plastic and fairly strong, though you have to be a bit careful with larger softboxes mounted when the speedring is attach by its base only like that. As the Witrsto light is now also part of the load supporting structure.

      I’ve made flash brackets for a number of years, and Dave loves to DIY lots of great ideas (as you can see in his Flickr stream).

  22. Keano 4 years ago

    Hi thanks for that tip btw I bought the Rovelight. 🙂 I have a question about the FT16 I read above and think I am getting things mixed up. Does the FT16 on the camera trigger the flash in manual of the other flashes I have set up or do I need a 3rd party trigger for that like YN622N.

    I know it controls power and groups.

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 4 years ago

      Now I’m very confused 🙂

      The Rovelight are not a Godox product, they are Jinbei HD600 II and have their own FTR transmitter unit. The RoveLight review and discussion is here.

      If you’re wanting to combine the RoveLight with Godox flashes now, then you will have to be more specific on what you’re wanting to achieve, though the YN-622N would be the main trigger option if you want HSS.

  23. Paul H. 4 years ago

    Do the AD360’s w/ PB960 have an auto shut off feature? I haven’t found any mention of this anywhere, and I’d like to be able to turn that feature off during events to keep things powered up always…

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 4 years ago

      Hi Paul,

      No the Witstro / PB960 do not shut off by themselves.

      The Ving V850 etc speedlites do, though its easy to turn the sleep mode off completely in the custom functions.

  24. Mariel 4 years ago

    My Godox AD360 failed after only 7 months of use. First the battery failed after 5 months, which I replaced on my own, since neither Godox nor the eBay seller bothered to ever respond, and now the capacitor of my AD360 has blown this morning (crackles, pops, smoke). I’ve tried to reach out to Godox at all their emails, and phone numbers and Skype numbers, and all the gwen@godox.com emails floating around. The ONLY thing I’ve EVER heard back from the company is to notify me after over one month of email them, that it’s now Chinese new year. And that email came a day after it was over. I’ve emailed Godox at least 7 times in 2 months, and nothing. And all the chinese sellers that promise a one year warranty, good luck getting them to ever respond to that.

    All in all, very frustrating and expensive experience. It’s a fine product when it works. Leaves much to be desired in other departments.

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 4 years ago

      Hi Mariel,

      Sorry to hear that. Who did you purchase from on Ebay? GodoxStudio seem to be pretty decent (so I hope you’re not going to say its them).

      You may be able to file a claim with Ebay if the seller doesn’t respond.

      Gwen has been slowly replacing batteries for a number of people. Though they can take a while to respond. Everyone is pretty quiet at the moment, I’d say busy trying to get back up to speed after the new year break.

      • Mariel 4 years ago

        EBay is unfortunately not going to be helpful after 45 days, nor is the credit card company after 180 days. I’ve purchased it trough a chinese eBay seller, who I’ve realised has multiple stores. EPGate, dualane-us, dualane-oz. They have a one year warranty, but it’s pointless if they don’t follow trough. I’ve gone so far as to call Godox in China directly two days ago, who wanted to see a video of what’s happening, but I’m honestly not holding my breath, because since then I haven’t heard anything again, just like my months long emails to Gwen about the battery. I’ll keep this thread updated, and I truly hope for a good outcome, but I will likely only purchase this again trough Adorama’s rebrand or another with extended warranty, since a blown capacitor on a lightly used flash after only 6 months is beyond poor workmanship. I realise after years of use this can happen, on pro models just as well (Looking at my old Bowens studio gear), but it should never happen on such new gear. I hope Godox doesn’t set a prime example for China’s reputation for poor customer service, but it very likely will by leaving me eat the cost of it’s early death (and already has by its communication).

        • Author
          Flash Havoc 4 years ago

          Hi Mariel,

          Ok keep us posted on how it goes. I’ve just sent Godox another email telling them how frustrated people have been getting with their lack of response.

          I don’t know what things are like inside their business, so its hard to make any comment. They need to address this one way or another though, otherwise customers will be voting with their wallets.

          Regarding the faulty capacitors, yours would only be the third or forth I have heard of over the whole time, and one was a brand new flash.

          The Witstro and packs do have few issues at times, though its appears to be a very small percentage.

          • Mariel 4 years ago

            I definitely will keep you updated. Although the store I’ve purchased the item on ebay doesn’t exist anymore, I’ve written the store that’s obviously the same (out of HK), and today they’ve requested I send it back to them, and oddly enough, the person I could reach at Godox on the phone once (Lucy), is the same person writing me from that store now. It’s quite confusing. In any case, I’ll update this, but I imagine this sending back stuff to China will take forever, and for them to respond again.

          • Mariel 4 years ago

            I just wanted to update on my saga with the Godox 360. It’s been totally a disaster. Godox refused to service or replace a unit with a burst capacitor, and the original seller (eBay EPGATE http://www.ebay.com/usr/epgate) requested that I send it back to china. I sent it back at my cost for $85 to Guangzhou. They received it and subsequently repeatedly told me to wait another week until a replacement would be sent out. A month ago they told me it was shipped out. It’s been a month, and they’ve stopped all communication with me. So, not only am I out a Godox AD360 unit, but the actual unit, I don’t have anymore, and I spent another $85 on shipping.

            Meanwhile, Godox doesn’t respond to my request of two bad battery units. I’ve even talked to them on the phone in Gunahzhou.

            It’s absolutely ridiculous. The experience couldn’t have been any worse, and there’s nothing I can do.

            After product service, seriously beware. There isn’t any. Once the product is broken in any way, it can not be fixed, and the China sellers will not honour their warranty.

            • Author
              Flash Havoc 4 years ago

              Hi Mariel,

              I have forwarded this to Lindy, so she should contact you with regards to the batteries at least. If you don’t hear anything please let me know.

  25. Marcus Y 4 years ago

    I would love to see Godox pack the battery unit and the Witstro unit into just one monobloc, removing the need for messy wires and other accessories.

    One can wish right?

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 4 years ago

      Hi Marcus,

      I’ve been saying the same thing since the beginning. Although I think it would be ideal to have the option of separating the battery, or possibly the flash head, when desired a well. That way you have the best of both worlds.

      I think the AR400 is a good indication that Godox may well be thinking this way. Its been a few years now so I’m sure they have some gear of some kind in the works.

  26. Lincoln 4 years ago

    Hi Elvis! Can you elaborate more on your below comment? At full power, what is the fastest shutter you can use without HSS? I’m trying to overpower the sun, so I want to use the fastest shutter speed that will 1) not cause noticeable banding and 2) not sacrifice so much flash power that it isn’t worth it. Also, I just bought a 3-stop ND filter, which will hopefully allow me to shoot at f/1.8…

    “If you find you’re mainly using full power in HSS mode though, it can actually be better to leave the H-mode off, and just use the long flash duration at full power to provide the constant light source for HSS. So you use the same HSS triggering method, but leave H-mode off, as set the flash to full power. That way there is no need to turn the H-mode on and off anyway.”

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 4 years ago

      Hi Lincoln,

      If you’re needing as much light as possible (to overpower the sun) then using all ND filters and staying below the cameras X-sync speed is generally the best option.

      That doesn’t help to freeze motion though if that is a concern, and also it can be tricky to focus etc shooting through a lot of ND filters.

      Using long duration sync (instead of the H-mode which pulses the flash) varies with the camera, radio triggers and lights used. Full frame cameras with big slow shutters have the hardest time retaining a clean frame without any banding.

      You also tend to get a gradient across the frame as well, so it depends on whether that is going to be critical for you as well.

      So its really going to depend on your whole set up and whether you have an timing adjustment to work with etc. Using the H-mode generally makes these variables less of an issue, and provides a more even light, though it is limited to 10 pops at full power.

      Either way combining the 3 stop ND filter is a good way to go.

      If you don’t have the flash already though, the Rovelight provides considerably more light, and uses long duration sync for its HSS mode (still with a fairly even light) so it has no shot limit, and does this HSS very well.

  27. Marcus Y 4 years ago

    Hi Elvis,

    I’m crossing my fingers too. Making everything one unit would render the Profoto B1/B2 system moot. Well, unless people are buying into the profoto mounts.

    Dumb question – Where can I find other types of grids for the 5″ standard 28 degree reflector? I’ve looked everywhere and I wanted to find 5, 10, and 20 degree grids. All the vendors online only has one available with the color gels, but nobody sells a kit. Does anyone know?

    Thanks again!

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 4 years ago

      Hi Marcus,

      Its funny you should mention the grids, as I’m almost sure I bought a fine grid for the standard reflector, and since for the life of me not been able to find where I put it when wanted it a couple of months ago.

      And then I couldn’t find them for sale anywhere either. So I’m still not sure if I have actually managed to lose the grid, and Godox do not appear to be selling them anymore, or if I’m just dreaming the whole thing 🙂

      If I wasn’t dreaming it was around 10 or 15 degrees and had that marked on a label stuck on the side.

  28. Lincoln 4 years ago

    Thanks so much for your reply about the .9 ND, Elvis! Now I’m trying to figure out the most power efficient softbox for a cl-360. Your above ‘Regular Softbox’ section really scared me about losing power due to the bare bulb trajectory, because I’m moving from 600ex-rt’s to the 360 solely to gain power during wedding portrait. What do you recommend with these priorities in mind? 1) Power Efficiency 2) Transportable/Fast Setup 3) 18-28 inches 4) really want a Grid.

    At this point honestly the ad-s7 looks pretty good, and I like that it connects directly to the light without a speedring. Do you think I could even use that without the reflecting dish in order to gain more power (at the cost of less softness)? How would this compare to a parapop or other setup?

  29. Lincoln 4 years ago

    Now I’m thinking a Hexapop 24 (same as SMDV-60) with the SMDV-03 adapter to attach directly to the flash head. Though it’s about $170 for both, which is frustrating. Do you have any other thoughts?

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 4 years ago

      Hi Lincoln,

      I think you’re on the right track there. I’m a big fan of the SMDV / ParaPop because they are so lightweight and easy to pop open, with diffusers etc attached.

      I’ve always been a little wary of attaching softboxes via the flash head mount, though the HexaPop 20″ would have to be lighter than the Godox AD-S7, and that 24″ version would likely be quite reasonable as well.

      If you’re trying to get by with one size, that’s probably a good middle ground. I don’t have a 24″ here to have a feel for what they are like in person though, so I think I would still be looking to get the speedlight bracket version and add the SMDV-03 adapter (as I don’t think you can buy the speedlite bracket separately). Then you could use one or both to be safe when needed (takes a little of DIY to attach both).

      The Godox AD-S7 are a nice little softbox, though I think it would be pretty restrictive to have something that small as the only option.

      I haven’t tried removing the inner reflector, though you can certainly remove the front diffuser fabric to gain a stop or so.

      The other main options are the Lastolite style Ezyboxes, and they will accept a grid. I think the SMDV style have the advantage for weight and convenience though.

  30. Marcus Y 4 years ago


    What about the grids made for the Quantums? Would it work for the Witstro?

    Do you know if godox would be introducing more grids or even accessories for their AD-360 units?

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 4 years ago

      Hi Marcus,

      The Quantum reflector does not look quite the same as the Godox as you mention bellow.

      I think the only safe option would be to factor in purchasing the Quantum reflector/s as well.

      I’ll ask Godox if there are any more Grids or accessories on the horizon.

  31. Marcus Y 4 years ago

    Actually the quantum ones say it’s a snap-on. These norman grids specifically state that it’s a 5in .5-thick grid set. http://goo.gl/acNCOq

    What do you think? Will it work?

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 4 years ago

      The Godox reflector actually measures around 4 5/8″ internal diameter, so I don’t know if these would actually fit either.

      I’m not sure if Norman have a reflector with the small Witstro style mount that will accept those grids either. They look like they would be more likely to mount in these 5″ reflectors with the larger mount.

  32. Marcus Y 4 years ago

    Sorry for the repetitive posts on the comment section, but I just stumbled across this which might be of interest to all AD-360 owners: 2 in 1 LED modeling lamp + dome diffuser for the Witstro! http://goo.gl/7QWbC3

    Has anyone tried this before?

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 4 years ago

      That looks great thanks Marcus, I have just posted about it.

      I’ll order one to try. I think this is brand new so I don’t think you will get too much feedback yet.

  33. Marcus Y 4 years ago

    Cool – thanks for posting that. I’m looking forward to a review of the modeling lamp unit.

    I wished Godox has more than one grid for their standard reflector, it would really make a world of a difference when it comes to being versatile and traveling light. As of now, you need the 7″ reflector to use the normal 7″ grids, which is a pain in the butt to carry around.

  34. Andy 4 years ago

    I’ve just bought Flashpoint Streaklight (same as Godox). I also have YN622C and YN622TX and want to use HSS and it does not work. Here is my setup:

    Flashpoint on YN622C (flash set HSS)
    YN622 TX on top of canon 1ds III
    Shutter speed set to 1/500

    And i get black line within the frame. Do i miss anything or my flash or trigger get problem? Note that YN622C/TX work as HSS fine with my speedlites.


  35. Tiktico 4 years ago

    Hi there!
    Thaks for your review, helped me a lot!
    I’ve 2 questions :
    – There is any sleep mode on the flash ? Is very important to me to know that because I need to use them has flashs for mi DSLR camera trap who are in the jungle for a long time like a full week and if there is no sleep mode all the battery will termintate in a very short time.
    – How much time could they stay activ (with or without sleep mode) with one full charged Probac 960 ?
    Thanks you,
    All the best,

  36. Apostolos 4 years ago

    Has anyone been able to get HSS out of the Godox 360 with Yongnuo’s YN-622. I can’t seem to get it to work properly for some reason. My 622s seem to be able to do HSS fine with the Yongnuo 600-EX-RT or even the Canon 580-EX, but for some reason not with the Godox 360. They trigger the unit okay, but I get part of the frame under or overexposed, which means that the curtains don’t close in perfect sync, I’m guessing. I’ve tested it with both Canon 5kmk3 and 6d, both have problems. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

    • Yuppa 4 years ago

      I thought you could only do this (simply) with Nikon. For Canon, you need a YN-622C in the camera’s hot shoe and a FT-16 transmitter connected via a PC sync cord.

      Canon doesn’t provide the early fire signal through the hot shoe, only through their PC sync port.

  37. Ron 4 years ago

    Does anyone have any info on when the TTL version of the 360 will be coming out, hopefully very soon. I am in Australia.

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 4 years ago

      Hi Ron,

      Sorry no, there is no indication they will be coming any time soon unfortunately.

      There is some talk going around that the TTL triggers Godox have mentioned may only be remote manual to start with as well. So TTL may still be some way off yet.

  38. Emanuele 4 years ago

    i’m seriously interested to AD360 but i’ve never heard Godox as brand. Can you tell me something about it? Seriousness, reliability etc etc.
    Thanks a lot

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 4 years ago

      Hi Emanuele,

      The Godox AD360 have proven themselves to be one of the most reliable flash units over a number of years now, and they are built very well.

      When they were first released they were around $750, so Godox did not intend to make a cheap low quality flash.

      Having said that every flash model has some faulty units from time to time, so it really comes down to buying from a dealer you can rely on if there are any issues.

      From your email address I think you may be located in Europe, otherwise Adorama have a great price on these flashes at the moment, and offer great back up service.

      • Emanuele 4 years ago

        Hi, thanks again for your reply because it’s a good news for me.

        Yes, i live in Italy and here there is just one physical shop that sells Godox AD360 but the price is very high… (over 600 €).

        I’ll buy through Amazon or similar…


  39. kent 4 years ago

    Any idea how it compares to the Jinbei FLII500 which is 400Ws? The AD360 is about 300Ws, So are they pretty close at Full power? The FL500 has a GN of 66 while AD360 has a GN80. I suppose they are measured differently.

    I am just wondering if I should replace my FL500 to AD360.?

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 4 years ago

      Hi Kent,

      Sorry I’m not sure about the Jinbei FLII500. I think you would really need to have them both side by side with the same reflector or modifier to get an accurate idea.

      The Godox RS600P are pretty close to right on one stop more than the AD360 it that’s any help.

  40. maxim 4 years ago

    The number of consecutive shots in HSS mode at full power is 10.
    How much times overall before it will drain the battery in HSS (in non consecutive shots) ?

  41. Brenda Campbell 4 years ago

    Hi, I have a canon 7 d camera and I have the 360 , will the the Cell-II -C work with my 7 d, Also are there any video’s that show how to work with the 360 in HSS mode setting and all the goodies ,

    Thank You
    Brenda Campbell

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 4 years ago

      Hi Brenda,

      Yes the 7D is fine with the Cells II-C.

      I’m not sure if there are videos, though its very simple. Just make sure your cameras is set to HSS in the flash control menu. Turn on the H-mode on the flash, and you’re good to go at any shutter speed (and flash power level down to 1/8th).

      At full power the flash is limited to 10 shots in a row though. So one tip if you’re using full power is to actually turn the H-mode off on the flash (same HSS setting remains on on the camera though). And you should still get a clean frame at any shutter speed. And there is no extra limit to the number of shots you can take then. This only works at full power though.

      • Simon 4 years ago

        I would just like to add that I have been using the Bolt VB-22 which is essentially the Godox Witstro 360 rebranded. I use the FT-16 transmitter and FTR-16 receiver. I don’t have the Cells II as it won’t work with Olympus cameras. I have an Olympus OM-D EM-1 and have tried the trick to get high speed sync (HSS or FP on Olympus) previously of using my Cactus V6 radio transceiver on-camera, in TTL pass-through TX transmitter mode, with an Olympus TTL flash in FP mode on Cactus V6. I would then attach a Cactus V6 in RX (manual flash) receiver mode to the Bolt VB-22 via 3.5mm sync cable and set it to full power (normal sync mode) and be able to sync this at up to 1/8000 shutter speed.

        Basically with the TTL flash in FP mode it sends the advanced FP trigger signal through the V6 transmitter to the V6 receiver and triggers the Bolt (or any flash) earlier than normal sync, and the full power lights the whole sensor without banding. Great, but limited as it’s too much power for f2.0 and other large apertures.

        I just tried this small adjustment now, after reading your detailed description of the system. I didn’t know I could activate HSS on the flash. I did so and now with the exact same setup, I have true HSS with all shutter speeds, with the VB-22 in HSS mode, at 1/8th up to 1/1 power.

        This may seem strange but it also worked when I put the FT-16 transmitter in the hotshoe of the V6 receiver, so that the TTL sent the HSS signal through the V6 TX to the V6 RX, triggered the FT-16 transmitter and with the Bolt flash is HSS mode, I had full HSS without the Cells II transmitter.

        For anyone who does not have a Canon or Nikon system, this might just work for you. Flash Havoc, please test this and update us if it is possible on Sony, Fuji, Pentax or any other. Integration of the HSS function into the Ft-16 transmitter would be ideal but they would still make it Canon and Nikon only, I’m sure of it, so this is really exciting for the rest of us.

        • Author
          Flash Havoc 4 years ago

          Hi Simon,

          Another person just posted about the Olympus cameras and a High Shutter Speed trick in the comment here.

          So maybe this is not related to the V6 triggers in particular, and you may be able to remove the flash from your camera and just use the transmitter alone!

          I don’t have the V6 here, though I did try this with some other manual triggers which have a TTL pass though hotshoe like the Phottix Strato II, and Meyin RF-604, with my Canon cameras, and this did not work.

          I suspect this is more due to the Olympus cameras system as mentioned above. So Sony Fuji and Pentax etc are probably still out of luck with this technique.

  42. Brad 4 years ago


    I just picked up a used Streaklight 180 from Adorma to compliment my 360…and have an issue I am trying to find an easy answer to: the unit turns on fine, but the flash will not fire. At all. Any ideas?

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 4 years ago

      Hi Brad,

      Are you sure the bulb does not look blown? If it looks ok you could try taking the bulb in and out a few times in case its just a poor connection there.

      A few of the early models had issues with the cord as well, does it have a plug going into the flash which is split in 2 sections? Either way you could try connecting and discounting the plug a few times as well. Try a different port or your other battery pack as well.

      Other than the bulb or cord theres probably not much else unless something has failed inside.

      • Brad 4 years ago

        Thanks for the reply….

        The plug is just one section. The battery will fire my 360, and turns on the 180, just no flash. It seems like the bulb is ok. There is one small section of grey, but when looking at replacement bulbs, it seems it’s the same as the photos.

        • Author
          Flash Havoc 4 years ago

          Ok thanks. It could possibly be the plug socket issue then. Though even if you managed to get it firing then you would likely be best to return the flash anyway, as there would likely be ongoing intermittent problems if that was the issue.

          I would think Adorama would have at least checked it was firing at some stage though, which makes me think its likely the bulb or connection with the bulb. You could possibly try cleaning the contacts on that as well.

          Unfortunately its probably best to send it back though and let Adorama see if they can source the issue.

  43. Simon 4 years ago

    I have been trying to look for globe style diffuser (one that also sends light behind the flash, to give the true spherical effect) for the Godox Witstro/Bolt VB-22, and though I seem to have found something that might fit the Normal/Lumedyne mount on eBay, I would prefer if this would be available from the manufacturers. I really like the quality of light that you get from the bare bult as it spreads everywhere and fills shadows naturally, but the shadow can be a bit harsh. I was thinking of trying a friend’s Gary Fong Lightsphere collapsible as this would be better for transport. Anyone tried this?

    Also I would like to balance my light from daylight to tungsten and I don’t seem to find anything for the standard reflector, or the barebulb or the beauty dish. I can get sheets of CTO gels, but was looking for a kit that I could purchase that would be as long lasting as the colour grid kit for the standard reflector. This set has only green, blue, red and yellow which is not at all CTO.

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 4 years ago

      Hi Simon,

      Yes the only solution for gels at this stage is to use gel sheets and adapt them to your modifiers as needed. For bare bulb some people use the backing plate from the Godox mushroom dome and form a cone over the bulb with the gel sheets. Beauty dishes wrap a sheet around the center reflector to form a tube. The standard reflector are easy to cut sheets to fit the diffuser cap.

      With the popularity of these flashes now its surprising a third party has not come up with some purpose made gel cap options. Its probably only a matter of time though.

  44. Sam 4 years ago


    Thanks for the great article, really great. Covers a lot of good information. Just one thing that I’ve been thinking…

    – Does this product work with Phottix Odin TCU & Phottix triggers? With the HSS?

    I already have Phottix TCU & 1 trigger. I also have Phottix Mitros + which is great but need one more powerful light.

    Thank you!

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 4 years ago

      Hi Sam,

      Yes the Odin or Mitros+ as transmitter, and either Odin or even Strato II receivers will work for the H-mode HSS with the Witstro and Ving flashes.

  45. Michael 4 years ago


    I also own a Godox AD360 flash and would like to buy a replacement bare bulb (e. g. Aliexpress).

    On my research for a good price I noticed that sellers offer two versions of replacement bare bulbs for the Witstro’s: an AD180 and an AD360 “version”. The AD180 “version” is about 40-50 percent cheaper than the AD360 “version”. But I cannot see any optical difference between the two bulbs. Also the production process should be cheaper if Godox only build one “version” for both flashes.

    Does someone know if there is any difference between the bare bulbs for the AD180 and the AD360. Can I buy an AD180 bare bulb and use it in my AD360 without problems?

    Thanks and kind regards

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 4 years ago

      Hi Michael,

      No the bulbs are different. The AD360 bulb needs to be rated to handle twice the power put through it than the AD180.

      • Michael 4 years ago

        Hello Flash Havoc,

        thanks for the Information.

        Can I see the difference between the two bare bulb versions? Are there any characteristics of the AD360 version over the AD180 version? I don’t want to be diddled when buying the more expensive one for the AD360.

        Thanks again and kind regards

  46. nixland 4 years ago

    The Godox dealer told me that the ttl version has been released. Any info?

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 4 years ago

      Hi nixland,

      The Godox AD360II-C TTL have now been announced here.

  47. Joseph 4 years ago

    Just a Simple Question Moderator. If you had to choose between the Rovelight and the AD360 (Budget not being an issue) which would you choose as a first portable strobe to get started in off camera lighting.

  48. Greg 4 years ago

    My opinion: get a Cheetah 360 (assuming you’re in North America) because it’s the same unit but customer support is outstanding from Cheetahstand. The light and trigger system is 100% reliable or Ed will make it so. It’s a fairly lightweight strobe for the power and only than a stop less power than the Rovelight. I shoot indoors at a significant distance (sports, small auditoriums) and have never needed more power than a pair of CL360s angled on the subjects to even the lighting.

    If you find that you really do need the extra power then you can add a CL600 and use the same triggers; or if the Cheetah system doesn’t satisfy you it should be easy to sell the CL360 and buy a Rovelight without losing much value.

    • Joseph 4 years ago

      Thanks Greg but would the CL360 have enough power for outdoors. I’m shoot mostly outdoor portraits and weddings

      • Author
        Flash Havoc 4 years ago

        Hi Joseph,

        Your original question (and this one to some degree) are actually pretty hard to answer, as it really depends on how you like to do things (distances, modifiers used etc).

        Regarding Greg’s comment though, I actually find the Rovelight’s are around 1.8 stops more light than the AD360, which is quite a significant difference. And the Godox RS600P power is somewhere in between the two.

        The Rovelight is significantly bigger and heavier than the AD360 though, so its really going to come down to how portable you want to be. The only contradiction there is the Rovelight being all in one can be quicker to maneuver around in some situations.

        Godox have a much larger integrated system of lights though, where even the one Rovelight transmitter is pretty antiquated.

        You’re really going to have to use one or the other and get a feel for whether your happy with the power, or portability. Everyone has different preferences with this.

  49. Matt 4 years ago

    Is there a way that you could have a 180 on camera and still fire other lights off camera? Being as the battery pack can be attached to my belt and the light isn’t that much heavier than a normal speedlite with batteries, I’d love to have this setup for receptions at weddings. Sometimes the ceiling is just too high for a normal speedlite, sometimes a wall to bounce from is just too far, etc. I could have my speedlites(currently being fired by phottix odins) pointed to the dancefloor but still have a flash on camera strong enough to light the other areas of the reception as I walk around.

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 4 years ago

      Hi Matt,

      In general you would normally have to connect an FT-16 transmitter to the cameras PC sync port (if it has one) and strap the transmitter to the side of the flash mounted on-camera, or similar.

      If you need the Odin transmitter mounted on the camera hotshoe though then you would have to mount the flash above or beside the camera on a bracket, and connect that to the camera via PC sync cord. Its lucky in that case you are only using a manual flash on camera.

      The real solution though will be when Godox bring out an AD180II-C/N, with the master interface built in. The 360 versions are becoming available now, though they are obviously pretty heavy mounted on the camera hotshoe.

      • Matt 4 years ago

        Honestly I don’t mind the weight. If I could find something that will illuminate the reception better than the weight’s something I have to deal with. Maybe the 360ii is the way to go. I’m trying to add to my gear in the most beneficial way w/out having to go with a whole other system(though I may go that route if it’s all inclusive and SIMPLE..haha). But if I go the new Witstro ii, I’ll need to go all Godox for a streamline step up otherwise I’m still going to have the same problem with lighting my other gear.

        I was thinking of the flashpoint streaklight 360 since Adorama has it for $400 at the moment w/ the battery and the transmitter. But I’m thinking the way it’s going to have to be set up (on a bracket with plugs here on bracket there) with odin on top sounds freaking awful to deal with.


  50. Vince 4 years ago

    What is the real Ws of the flashes? When I look Adorama, Godox and B&H they state the 360 version is 360Ws but here I see is 307Ws. Which one is the correct one?


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