GODOX – AD360II-C – TTL 2.4GHz Flash – Now Available

Godox AD360II

 

Godox have announced the long awaited and very much anticipated AD360II-C, TTL version of their popular Witstro bare bulb flash units, with both Master and Slave capability built-in via 2.4GHz radio transceivers.

 

Godox AD360II

 

Not only do the AD360II-C provide both ETTL radio Master and Slave modes for Canon, they also provide an auto switching TTL radio Slave modes for Nikon, Sony, M4/3 and Fuji.

 

Godox AD360II

 

 

The AD360II-C also combine with the Godox X1-C TTL flash triggers used as transmitter units on the camera.

Godox AD360II

 

 

 

GODOX WITSTRO AD360II-C FEATURES

 

  • Powerful 300Ws – GN80, ISO 100 at 28mm Zoom Equivalent (Standard Reflector)
  • Flash Modes – ETTL / M / Multi
  • HSS to 1/8000th
  • FEC / FEB – 1/3rd Increments (±3 Stops)
  • FEL (Flash Exposure Lock)
  • Manual Flash – 1/128 – 1/1 Output (1/3rd Increments)
  • Godox 2.4GHz X Radio System
  • ETTL Radio Master Mode
  • Canon, Nikon, Sony, M4/3, & Fuji TTL Radio Slave Modes (Auto Switching)
  • Range – 100m + with X1 as Transmitter
  • Range – 70m+ with AD360II-C as Transmitter
  • Ratio Group Mode – A / B / C
  • 32 Channels
  • Canon Optic Wireless Master & Slave Modes
  • Ratio Group Mode – A / B / C
  • 4 Channels
  • Head Swivel 0 – 270 Degrees, Head Tilt -15 – 90 Degrees
  • Large Dot Matrix LCD Display
  • AF Assist Light (Automatic)
  • 450 Full Power Flashes (With BP960 Battery Pack)
  • 0.05 – 4.5 Second Recycle Time (Halved With 2 Into 1 Battery Cord)
  • Modeling flash
  • Custom Functions
  • Auto Memory Function
  • Micro USB Port for Firmware Upgrades
  • USB Port Receiver Socket (For FTR-16 etc)
  • PC Sync Port
  • 3.5mm Sync Port

 

Godox AD360II

 

 

Though possibly a little on the heavy side, the AD360II-C can be used as a powerful fully featured TTL and HSS enabled on-camera flash, including an automatic AF assist light.

 

Godox_AD360I

 

At the same time acting as a Master interface to control a number of AD360II-C or TT685C Speedlites off-camera, with either ETTL or Remote Manual power settings.

 

Godox AD360II

The new Godox X1-C TTL flash triggers, can be combined with the AD360II-C as as transmitter units on the camera, providing a more advanced user interface (allowing Manual And TTL groups to be mixed together).

The X1 used as transmitter also provide a boost in range over the AD360II-C used as transmitter (around 100m Vs 70m).

Godox AD360II

 

The AD360II-C also now provide a second Micro USB port for firmware updates, on top of the original USB port used to accommodate the FTR-16 clip on receivers from the original Remote Manual Witstro lights.

 

Godox AD360II

 

GODOX AD360II-C SPECS

 

Godox AD360II Specs

 

Godox AD360II

 

 

PRICE AND AVAILABILITY

 

The Godox Witstro AD360II are available now from around $500 –

AD360II-C for CANON – AdoramaEbay, Amazon, UK.

AD360II-N for NIKON – Adorama, Ebay, Amazon, UK

 

Godox – Website

Godox – AD180 / AD360 Review

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312 Comments
  1. cory 2 years ago

    Argh! Just bought the original version of this a few weeks ago off Amazon. I’m still within the 30 days so I can still return it, but I have a question:

    I had some difficulty getting HSS to work with my Yongnuo transceivers (622c-tx on 5d mk3 hotshoe, 622c on the Wistro). This setup would not function properly until I used a PC sync cord (from the flash unit to the 622-c) Without it, I got strong exposure gradation at higher shutter speeds — with it, it worked like a charm. So my question is, will I be able to use this new version without the 622-c (just 622c-tx to the unit)? And if so, will having no PC sync affect the HSS again? Wondering if its worth spending the extra $100 and going through the hassel of the return if its not going to make much of a difference
    TIA

    • cory 2 years ago

      And if I might ask one more question, does anyone know if there’s a difference between the orange battery pack models and the black ones? Amazon has what seems to be the exact same model with a black battery pack for $365, which is about $45 less than I paid for the orange one.

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 2 years ago

      Hi Cory,

      The YN-622C-TX are not going to work as a transmitter directly to the radio receiver built into the AD360II-C.

      You would need the X1-C transmitter, or another AD360II-C as transmitter if you didn’t want to attach an external receiver to the AD360II-C.

      If the YN-622C are compatible with the AD360II-C though, then you wouldn’t need a PC sync cord anymore, as the flash would be using the regular automated HSS mode just like other TTL speedlites, not the manual H-mode.

      Its not actually clear yet if the AD360II-C actually have a H-mode.

      Relying on full compatibility with YN-622C into the future could possibly become uncertain as well, now that Godox have their own TTL triggers available.

      In general though I think the main difference would be whether you want the more automated HSS (which turns on and off as needed) if you’re not interested in the TTL side of the flash.

      The Black and Orange battery packs should be exactly the same. Just as long as you’re not somehow getting some really old stock from last year then they should be fine either way.

  2. Tim 2 years ago

    AD360II-N and X1-N versions for Nikon will follow?

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 2 years ago

      Hi Tim,

      I know the X1-N were meant to be available soon, though I don’t know when the AD360II-N are scheduled.

  3. Ulysses 2 years ago

    Naturally, this news comes immediately after my Phottix Indra500 purchase. LOL!!! Such is the way of progress. 🙂

    I’ve always enjoyed my manual versions of this system (mine are the very reliable Cheetah CL-360 variety), which work well regardless of camera system — they are compatible with Canon, Nikon, Olympus, and Sony cameras. I expect I’d lose that sort of compatibility with this TTL version of the bare-bulb flash?

    (As an aside, I had great difficulty posting this comment via my iPad and, therefore, needed to switch to my Mac laptop. Thought you might want to know. Thanks!)

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 2 years ago

      Hi Ulysses,

      Unfortunately my X1-C haven’t arrived yet, so I’m not really sure yet if they will function in remote manual on non dedicated cameras. I know Godox are aware of the need for universal transmitters for mirrorless cameras etc, though whether they have actually implemented that in the X1 is another thing.

      I think there may be some hope though, as the X1 should link up with some new 2.4GHz FTR-16 style remote manual receivers at some stage, so it is possible all this has been considered.

      The recent Shanny RF system’s new transmitters are set to work on any camera in remote manual, and with no pre-flash then even with Nikon, so it can be done if Godox are thinking the same way.

      Hopefully the current/previous remote manual flashes will be integrated nicely into the new radio system eventually though.

      • Ulysses 2 years ago

        It would certainly be great if the new AD360 II remains compatible — even only manually — with any camera body with a hot shoe. That would be GREAT news for photographers with mirrorless cameras, but who (like myself) also maintain a lot of Canikon pro bodies.

        Interestingly, the Phottix Indra500 does not seem to fire if I have an Odin TCU or Mitros+ in the hot shoe of my Olympus OM-D E-M1 body. I should probably do more detailed testing to be absolutely certain there’s not some workaround with the gear in question. Maybe I might be able to figure a way out if I had a Strato II transmitter. Not sure about that, though, as I don’t have one.

  4. Gary 2 years ago

    I got one of these… under a different name thou… CheetahLight from the Cheetah Light Website… LOVE IT! Took some of the ‘Cruiseboat Photoshoot’ photos with it on my MM photo webpage.

    • Ulysses 2 years ago

      Gary, this particular version of the light (TTL version of the bare bulb flash units, with both Master and Slave capability built-in via 2.4GHz radio transceivers) is not yet available. Cheetah sells only the manual version at this time, which is what you and I have. I have little doubt that Ed at CheetahStand will eventually update to this new version once it starts production in quantity. Personally, I’m actually more likely to keep my manual version rather than “upgrade” to these because I like maintaining compatibility with the several different camera systems we use in our studio.

  5. Russ 2 years ago

    I’ll join all of those who just bought the AD360 (arrived yesterday)
    Aahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!

  6. photo-fotograf.com 2 years ago

    finaly,i wait for this,when we can see this product in store,and what is about HSS,dii need separate triger like an old model?

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 2 years ago

      Hi photo-fotograf,

      They should be available fairly soon, though when particular local stores will have them in stock I couldn’t say.

      Regarding the transmitter, you will only need the one X1-C transmitter now on the camera hotshoe to provide, TTL, HSS, and Remote Manual power control of the AD360II-C, or TT685C speedlites.

  7. Paul 2 years ago

    Does anyone know whether I’d be able to use the new X-1C trigger to fire both the new AD360 ii and my original AD360 if I had a Yongnyuo YN-622C attached to the old AD360? Will the X-1C fire a flash attached to a YN-622C?

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 2 years ago

      Hi Paul,

      You could fire your original AD360 via the X1-C transmitter using an X1 receiver attached to the AD360. Obviously the AD360II-C does not require the external receiver.

      At this stage you would then still need the FT-16 transmitter (held in hand) and receiver to remotely adjust power levels on your AD360.

      Eventually though Godox should have a 2.4GHz version of the clip on FTR-16 receivers available for the AD360, which would be fired and remote manually controlled by the X1 transmitter.

      The X1 transmitter will not directly fire a YN-622C receiver though.

  8. Paul 2 years ago

    On second thoughts, even if I could use either the original FT-16 system OR the YN-622s (I have both already) to trigger an AD360 ii and an original AD360 then that would be fine. I’m not bothered about TTL or HSS when using them together, I just need to know whether I can trigger a new AD360 ii and an old AD360 together in manual mode. Does anyone know if this will work? I’m guessing the 622s should, but can anyone confirm either way?

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 2 years ago

      I’m trying to get a hold of the AD360II-C User Manual so I can hopefully confirm a lot of these things.

      Though Godox have provided the original USB interface in the AD360II-C for the FTR-16 style clip in receivers. So theoretically you should be able to use your original FT-16 transmitter and receivers with both the AD360 and AD360II-C as you would like.

  9. sol 2 years ago

    Is there any limitations with the hss mode like the first version ?

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 2 years ago

      Hi sol,

      Again I don’t really know until we can at least get hold of the User Manual which should state any HSS limitations.

      With any luck they can possibly be tuned closer to the camera shutter now allowing less limitation.

  10. Sam 2 years ago

    Just when I actually ordered the already older model of Witstro AD360!

    Currently I own the Phottix Odin TCU & Phottix Mitros+-speedlite. Great combination, works flawlessly! It is just that I’ve been searching for some more light power while still being portable. I came upon Godox and read some reviews. After finding out that this is a quality product I decided to move to Godox Witstro AD360.

    The Godox trigger unit just seemed like the worst part of this. Now seeing this new one – it sure looks like a great one. I really like the Phottix Odin TCU and it’s interface.

    I really like the fact that there’s less and less pieces to carry. It’s all built-in and that is great! Plus, these things are powerful and they just work.

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 2 years ago

      Hi Sam,

      The FT-16 transmitters were pretty outdated even when they where first released. Though I think a lot of people (sometimes unexpectedly) have become pretty fond of their simplicity and function.

      I think that may be part of the reason Godox are carrying the compatibility on to the new flashes, and in no hurry to switch completely to the 2.4GHz system all at once.

      • Ulysses 2 years ago

        You’re exactly right, Elv. While on one hand I would greatly prefer a more internally integrated system with built-in tx/rx, thus reducing the number of pieces to keep track of and assemble/disassemble, I’m really surprised at how much I really learned to enjoy these lights. Granted, a more integrated approach (plus more power) is what drew me to the Indra system, as well. But I’m likely to also keep my Godox/Cheetah 360 likes, too. They definitely serve a purpose.

  11. PeterA 2 years ago

    Cory — (first comment) — If you need to put a cord into to flash to get HSS that means the trigger connection is too slow for the pulsing flash. I had this problem with the Cells II-N unit only working well at 1/1 power, and less than perfect over 1/1000 sec at other power levels. The **FIX** for the Cells II-N is to ALSO use the Cells II as a receiver. This makes the Nikon Cells II-N work with all my cameras down to 1/8th power and up to 1/8000 sec. Of course, this means BOTH FTR-16(s) AND the Cells II-N on both camera and flash. But it works!! It may be the same for the Cells II-C needing to use the receiver also under the flash to get proper high sync speed. Good Luck! 🙂

    I’m fine with having a couple AD-360 manual power lights, along with the iTTL version when it comes out. Many situations dictate a preferred Manual power level. 🙂

    My biggest problem right now is that darn Odin II having six channels. It looks so good! I wish the Indra 360 was in the Godox AD360 form factor!! So much easier to handle.

    With the wedding season winding down, I can now wait till spring to see what will be released. There is so little difference that a few pounds or inches is the deciding factor. I’m hoping FlashHavoc with also keep us up on any **piggyback** combinations of Phottix & Godox that will work. 🙂

    • Ulysses 2 years ago

      I’m glad it works, but that sure does seem like a complicated way to get it to work. I’m all about trying to keep the system (and the number of components) simple. That’s what’s so exciting about Godox FINALLY getting to this point with the AD360 system. It’s only a matter of time before Cheetah and other brands begin to pick up on this one.

    • Mariosch 2 years ago

      @PeterA: Cory is using the 622c as triggers.
      The 622c do supersync when camera is set to HSS, *but* they only do it on the pc-sync connector, not on the hotshoe. This is due to staying compatible to the way Canon is handling flash trigger in HSS mode.
      So with a AD360 on a 622c used in the hotshoe, the flash would actually be triggered once the first shutter is fully open – far too late for HSS exposure.

      Using the sync-cable will supersync the AD360 as intended and everythings works.

      Or one uses the 622c-tx: it has a special supersync mode, changing the behavior of the hotshoe in HSS mode to be similar to the pc sync connector – you still loose compatibility with Canon HSS flash, but as you have to intentionally set a group to supersync mode, this won’t be a problem.
      With a 622c-tx and the group in supersync mode, it would work without a sync cable…

  12. daemorhedron 2 years ago

    This looks so amazing, but where is the love for Sony? =)

  13. PeterA 2 years ago

    While I’m thinking about it… I’ve got to wonder if the TTL will take the power level down lower than 1/128th? Although not stated anywhere I’ve seen the complaint that the Phottix Indra 500 is **too powerful** is code for **doesn’t go low enough**. With the Indra 360 about the same power as the Godox AD360, in Glow 28″ Parapop, it at 1/128th it is still only down to f/4ish. 🙂

  14. Jason 2 years ago

    Any plans for Sony TTL/HSS?

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 2 years ago

      Hi Jason,

      Godox have generally said they are just doing Canon and Nikon for now. You never know in the future, though I wouldn’t be expecting anything soon.

      Its a bit of a pity with many people moving to the A7 now, though its no great to have numerous systems all half finished and needing refinements either.

  15. Justin 2 years ago

    Man I am so sick of new products for Canon coming out! Currently using yn-622’s with nikon and godox flashes and it is just clumsy.
    Yongnuo release their yn685, perfect! But just for Canon!
    And now this and the TT685c, for Canon as well.

    Would throw all of my money at Phottix but their on camera flashes still get terrible reviews for inconsistency, overheating ect.

    Seriously I wish one of these companies would bring out Nikon versions of their products instead of just jumping onto the next canon product!!!!!

    • Ulysses 2 years ago

      Simply put, these companies go where the money is. Canon is the biggest camera manufacturer at #1, with the largest number of buyers. Next is Nikon, with Sony close behind. Given enough time, these flash and radio manufacturers will provide products compatible with #2 and #3. But they will always serve #1 FIRST because that’s where the money is. I know it’s frustrating, but it’s also expected.

    • Donald 2 years ago

      Maybe you should have bought the more popular brand, common sense it would be made for Canon first…

  16. Jacques 2 years ago

    Another CaNikon-only flash. Snore.

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 2 years ago

      If you can’t beat em…. 🙂

      • Ulysses 2 years ago

        Indeed! I think a lot of photographers are frustrated partly because they fail to realize or recognize just how enormous Canon and to a secondary degree how large Nikon are with the number of camera units they sell. Sony is only recently approaching that of Nikon, but they still have a long ways to go. They are on record, however, of stating it is their goal to become the #3 or even the #2 camera manufacturer. Well, they’ve already seemed to have hit their goal for #3 and are on target for making a run at #2.

        Flash and trigger manufacturers watch these sorts of real manufacturing numbers closely. And they’re unlikely to invest in a line of products that won’t allow them to easily recover the costs of research, development, and marketing. Sony is only recently becoming a watch-worthy target. Others such as Micro Four Thirds and Fuji are far behind and are only targeted by those who feel they can capitalize on a small niche market.

        • Author
          Flash Havoc 2 years ago

          Yes, hopefully though if we start to see more collaborations like Phottix / Elinchrom (as TTL becomes more of a must have in strobe product line ups) that may make further development into other systems more viable, as they would effectively be sharing the development costs.

          There has been talk around of other systems, though whether anything eventuates, or how long it takes you just don’t know.

  17. Niels Gram 2 years ago

    This is interesting news ! I shoot action at 10 fps and need a powerfull light to supplement my speedlites. I have tried a AD180 but unfortunately it doesn’t output consistent light levels at 1/16 + 1/3 power (the output drops about one stop after a few flashes at 10 fps). I’m wondering about this new flash… will it output consistent light at lower power levels at 10 fps ? Time will show… I’m also hoping for compatibility with the YNE3-RX since I use the Canon RT system for my speedlites and would regard a swith to the X1 as a downgrade 🙁

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 2 years ago

      Hi Neil,

      Thanks, yes the YNE3-RX may be a big one. At least we may have a second chance option now with the coming Phottix Laso receivers as well.

      The V860 work well with he YNE3-RX though, and Godox TTL compatibility has been pretty good with the YongNuo triggers (mainly YN622C) so far as well, so I think its pretty hopeful.

      Both units are firmware updateable though, so that is always possibly subject to changes.

      I haven’t checked the current AD360 at 10 FPS so I’m not sure if they may be more consistent than the AD180.

      • Niels Gram 2 years ago

        Unfortunately I think that the reduction in power output at a given manually set power level like what I witnessed with the AD180 at 10 fps will be due to the battery being unable to supply sufficient charging current for the capacitor and I think that the AD360(II-C) will have the same problem but since the capacitor should be twice as big the decrease in power output from pop to pop would be smaller but the decrease in light output from first pop to a consistent level is reached will be the same (basically given by the recycle cyrrent supplied by the battery). It seems like speedlites has circuitry that stabilizes the light output from pop to pop – and if it can’t it will not fire for some time until it can deliver the correct amount of light. I’ve also noticed that the speedlites that I have tested seem to have a feedback of the light emitted by the flash tube that is most likely used to stabilize the light output.

        • ipadmania 2 years ago

          Niels,
          go get Quantum Trio, you will see the difference on your AD180

          I experiment on several system like Turbo 2×2 and Singapore made 2×2 also Propac 960,
          Quantum battery system is the best,
          I can only see difference on power source, Quantum is 14V DC and others are using 11V DC,
          but consistency is different

          • ipadmania 2 years ago

            Typo, I mean Quantum 3

            • Niels Gram 2 years ago

              Thanks ipadmania 🙂
              Fortunately I was able to return the AD180 so it’s not mine any more 🙂

              • Author
                Flash Havoc 2 years ago

                I assume you were using the 2 into 1 splitter cord on the battery pack?

                • Niels Gram 2 years ago

                  I was using the 2->1 cord (more like an “anti”-splitter 😉 ).

                • ipadmania 2 years ago

                  I did have those 2 into 1cable, I have 3 cables, but never use it since it is useless,
                  no significant made if I put it to Quantum flashes

                  I can accept the recycle time of AD180 because rarely use 1/1 power

                  In my opinion,
                  as long as it is source from 1 single battery, it won’t make any significant difference

  18. Luca 2 years ago

    So, is it an IGBT flash?
    Do you know if battery pack would remain the same of last model (the , no LifePo4)?

    Thanks!

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 2 years ago

      Hi Luca,

      Yes they would be IGBT just like the current manual AD360. I don’t know if it would even be possible to have a voltage controlled TTL flash.

      There is no mention of any change to the battery pack either, they still use the same PB960 packs.

      Another commentor was claiming recently the PB960 are Lithyum Polymer batteries, though I don’t know if that is actually the case.

  19. Luca 2 years ago

    Thank you!
    Just the last question… Do you know if there will ever be any more powerful version of the AD series?
    A 4-500 Ws would be just perfect!

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 2 years ago

      There had been some rumours of larger Jinbei HD600 / Rovelight / N-Flash / B1 all in one wireless style strobes from Godox from some years back now.

      I wouldn’t be surprised at all to see those eventuate at some point still. Even if Godox hadn’t been planning these previously I think most strobe manufacturers would want to be on that band wagon now anyway.

      No firm talk from Godox though as there had been for a couple of years now for the TTL Witstros.

    • Ulysses 2 years ago

      Isn’t that what the RS600 series is for?
      http://flashhavoc.com/godox-rs400p-rs600p-xenergizer-released/

  20. Luca 2 years ago

    Yes and I already have one RS 600, but it’s bulky and not light.
    I was wishing for a compact 450-500ws IGBT flash (with ttl possibly).
    Maybe I’m asking for too much! 🙂

    • Matt 2 years ago

      This is exactly what I’d love to have. Something not too heavy, radio controlled that can do HSS for midday shoots. Take an engagement session. Walk up to scene 1 in ettl, take a first shot, drop it into manual and adjust if need be, having extremely consistent shots. Walk to scene #2, put it back into ettl and take a test shot, drop it back into manual, etc etc.
      Keeping the system as wireless as possible. With the phottix indra 360’s battery being so small, why wasn’t it integrated into the body? Since the body is already ‘strobe’ sized vs ‘speedlite’ sized it seems silly to me. I know it’s fairly large but the Rovelight/b1 all contained is awesome. Since I’m already carrying sandbags around, I don’t want to have to carry a battery strap too.

  21. Ying 2 years ago

    Will I be able to mount like a Mola beauty dish on this? I’m debating over this or the RS600p.

  22. Donald 2 years ago

    Does this mean I should sell my Rovelight now? I love TTL. Is there a huge difference between 600w and 360w? Im not sure…

    • Tony M 2 years ago

      I would think it would depend on how you’re using your Rovelights and lights in general. These are certainly far more compact. But the rovelight is seriously powerful. If you find you’re setting your Rovelight at half power or below, that’s a start. The Rovelight creates a bigger light, In order to get the sort of spread on a Godox you’ll lose even a little more power. And, the Rovelights can go hundreds and hundreds of flashes on a battery charge (even at near full power from what I’ve found). I’m not so sure the Godox can match that either.

      I don’t use mine for portraiture, rather home interiors. I find for most homes my 600EX-RT’s suffice. But larger homes, these things are invaluable. I can’t get the spread nor the power necessary from even 2 flashes that I can get from one Rovelight. They’re just a pain to set up.

      But, the Rovelights are big and heavy. BTW, I use the Yongnuo YNE3-RX to trigger the Rovelights in conjunction with my Canon 600EX-RT’s, and they work flawlessly. Big improvement.

      You could always get one, try it out and if it doesn’t perform as expected – return it.

      • Donald 2 years ago

        Hi Tony, thanks for the comment. I am using them for portraiture shoots lasting 1-2 hours and I find that TTL is very valuable as I move in and out and about to get different angles/etc. very quickly. With manual I don’t think this works well much.

        • Matt 2 years ago

          Lighting(strobe) wont matter if you’re moving around. It only changes if your subject to light changes. If they stay in the same spot and the light stays in the same spot you’ll get the same exposure no matter where you stand. Now if you’re moving their faces to look in other directions than you’d have to move your light to follow or you’ll get shadows(coverage of light onto their face changes). You’ll have to move the light too whether you’re in manual or ettl. As long as the distance doesn’t change, your exposure on your subject won’t change. Manual works fine Now your background exposure can change but that’s a different exposure all together.
          Personally, why I want ettl capability is for the ‘new’ scene. Place my subject(s) pop a shot while in ettl, move to manual and do minor up or down if need be, leave the light and then I can shoot with all sorts of different angles without ambient backlighting affecting my ‘ettl’ 18% grey scene. Then, move to another area, back into ettl to get the first shot for exposure, move to manual, etc. It could work so well and so fast and I could spend more time interacting with the clients.

  23. Michael 2 years ago

    Does anyone know if this model has overheat protection? The problem with overheat protection is that after about 15-20 shots in HSS mode, the overheat protection kicks in and cripples the recycle time considerably.

    Thanks to anyone who has info on this – thanks!

    -Michael

    • ipadmania 2 years ago

      As far as I know, both Quantum and Godox they have READY feature built in,
      it will light ON when they are ready to fire,
      so, I don’t think you will make it overheat on the flash itself

      Most likely the heat will come from the battery pack means Propack PB960,
      there are circuitry inside and drawn fast and high current to fill capacitors on the flash very quick,
      the heat will build from the Propac first, in my opinion

      • Niels Gram 2 years ago

        Having a ready LED doesn’t mean that you will not be hit by an (overly cautious) overheat protection. And it doesn’t mean that the flash doesn’t need overheat protection either.

        • ipadmania 2 years ago

          Trust me, Neil,
          if you ony use Propac to drive the flash, it will not get overheat easily,
          the recycle time will never reach the flash limit

          Different case when you put it on Quantum Turbo batteries

          How many barebulbs that you got already and how many years you’ve been using it,
          until Godox makes a new Propac built like Quantum, what you were worrying about not gonna happen easily

          I use Trio with Turbo 2×2 mount it on 1D mark IV and set it on 10fps,
          it runs fast without black results,
          other batteries including Propac PB960 can’t do that

          • Niels Gram 2 years ago

            Thanks ipadmania. Biggest problem with the Quantum from my point of view is that it is ridiculously (over-) priced. I could buy 3 x PB960 for less and parallel all six outputs and I doubt that one Quantum pack will match the performance.

            • ipadmania 2 years ago

              You will never said “ridiculously” over priced if you ever use Quantum system before Godox was born

              You will admire their technology that time beyond Canon or Nikon can achieve,
              even Pocketwizards and Canon new RT looks silly for me because I already using that wireless system from Quantum

              • Ulysses 2 years ago

                But the Quantum system IS over-priced, and a bit clunky. While powerful, I’ve never understood how the appeal otherwise. I realize every system has its fans, but Quantum has never seemed flexible and responsive to user requests the way companies like Godox / Cheetah have been. Sometimes those qualities trump a lot of other hardware benefits.

  24. mmmfotografie 2 years ago

    Then switch to the second port on the PB960 for an other series of shots then you have let the powerboosters cool down.

    Better is to go with a ND filter on the lens controlling the light coming in when the flash on full power.

  25. PeterA 2 years ago

    Can you detail the timing of changing the 960 as the item that is overheating rather than the flash unit itself? I’ve got 3x 960s and an 820s So… what might the ability of HSS shots turn out to be? What if I changed the plug from one battery to the next every ten shots or so? Perhaps even rotating right to left plug each time I returned to a used battery. Would the flash get too hot, say at 1/2 or 1/4 HSS? Or could I keep going? Thanks! 🙂

  26. Niels Gram 2 years ago

    The AD360 has overheat protection and the AD360II-C will most likely have overheat protection. HSS burn a lot of power in the battery, flash circuitry and tube and without overheat protection you will end up frying your flash. So overheat protection is your friend ! What you don’t need is poorly implemented overheat protection. I don’t know if the overheat protection in the Widstro’s is overly protective but believe me you don’t want a flash like the AD360(II-C) without it if you intend to use it hard – and the vendor/manufacturer do not want to sell/build equipment like this without protective circuitry because there would be no end to warranty claims if they did.

  27. andy 2 years ago

    Good news for those who like to have on-camera TTL version of AD360. However, I don’t like heavy flash on camera at all.

    I hope original AD360 price will go down so i can buy 2 more in addition to the one I’m using right now (bought it from adorama). Basically, I only use it for outdoor shooting and manual only. For on camera flash, I’m fine with Canon 600EX-RT and a few slave YN600EX-RT when shooting event or wedding reception.

  28. Andy Schulz 2 years ago

    As always no Sony Interface Support ? I’m a pro photographer and Odin is the only TTL Option with HSS and speedlights , Why Godox is Not Supporting Sony As with the Sony A7Rii more and more Pros Are swapping To Sony mirrorless?.. Dont Understand that ?.

  29. ipadmania 2 years ago

    I got experience with this,
    I use Quantum Trio and T5D-R using CoPilot, so I know how this thing should work from the beginning,
    when I first saw Godox launch this product, I decided to get the new system,
    that means I got 2 system, Quantum and Godox

    Godox new AD360 TTL is not wise for on camera, it is HEAVY,
    AD180 already bring problems to EOS 70D hotshoe and I need to open and tighten it a bit or else it won’t fire
    Also NOTICE, that Godox hotshoe is not locking perfectly on the camera,
    on Quantum system, when you tighten, there will be a needle comes down and locks into,
    so the flash won’t fall into behind,
    If Godox does not improve their hotshoe locking mechanism, it will be worry for me,
    especially with this HEAVY weight champs on the camera mount
    Believe me, sometime you feel, you wanna hold the flash not the camera,
    when you do that on Godox and put it backward, camera will fall from loose it’s grip into the flash
    I am not saying Quantum better, Quantum also have weakness on the plastic materials
    that easily break when you OVER tighten it, this is a case that Quantum people aware of

    Other thing is, Godox need to improve their cable materials or manufacturing,
    I can’t count how many Godox cables that I cut and throw to garbage for malfunction,
    I don’t see there are any improvement on this part, I never had Quantum cables failed yet

    AD180 combination with Propac 960 in my experience can last for around 700 shots,
    with heavy use, a single Propac 960 battery will last 1 year or so,
    it will dead, you can not recharge it, recharge it full and it still dies,
    AD360 with powerfull and new TTL features will make it worse in my opinion,
    I have solution for this by making modification into the battery

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 2 years ago

      Hi ipadmania,

      Thanks for that. Yes there is definitely going to be issues using the AD360II-C as an on-camera flash for anything but specialised use. I would expect Godox will have an AD180II-C in the works though as well.

      That is an interesting point about the locking pin though, if Godox have not updated that with the AD180II-C then that could be a serious issue for on-camera use.

      Regarding the cords, do you have the later flashes with the split plug at the flash end? I haven’t heard many issues with those since the cords and sockets where updated.

      Hopefully the batteries will last longer now that they appear to be holding up better so far. If you’re talking about 12 months of heavy use and recharging, then that’s probably not bad going considering you can buy replacements from $60 or so.

      • ipadmania 2 years ago

        Yes, I do have the new AD180 with split cable, only 1 unit,
        I rarely use it on work because I haven’t got replacement cords for it,
        as I already ordered lots of cable for backup purpose

        Replacement battery $60 ? I got it in here around $100,
        I already modified the battery under $40 with 3X more power results

        Also, notice, the inside battery is Li-Po without balancer,
        some people said there is a circuit that balance the Li-Po,
        I don’t think it work as good as balance charger

  30. GODOX-MEGAZORD 2 years ago

    Hey Godox!

    Does HSS work properly this time with nikon and sony? Zebra banding is annoying! When do you plan to release an umbrella reflector that does not block the umbrella hole on the s-bracket mount?

  31. Jerome Yeats 2 years ago

    Has anyone else noted that there does not appear to be any replacement batteries available for Witstros on ebay uk nor on Amazon uk? Makes you wonder, doesn’t it?
    Does that mean I have two potential white elephants?
    What would have been wrong with common D cells or similar as opposed to a proprietory battery?

    • ipadmania 2 years ago

      You mean Propac ? Which one ? Propac 8 series batteries got no replacement

      I can easily swap the Propac PB960 batteries, so no problem for me at all

  32. Jerome Yeats 2 years ago

    Hello ipadmania,
    I mean the batteries in the PB960. I was not aware that the Witstros worked with 8 series battery packs. Swapping batteries is impossible if there are no new working batteries to swap out. The batteries used to be available on ebay UK. Now they aren’t unless I have missed something.

    • ipadmania 2 years ago

      I mean, I modify and replace the battery with other battery,
      if you have dead battery, perhaps you wanna give the case for me ?
      I will pay for the freight 🙂

  33. mmmfotografie 2 years ago

    @Jerome Yeats: if you can’t find the batteries for the PB960 in the UK you can always buy the Lencarta Atom replacement battery.

  34. icvin 2 years ago

    i assume you can use this flash with yonguo yn622 triggers for TTL/HSS via its hotshoe?

  35. Hector 2 years ago

    Hello
    Will the x1 transmitter be able to trigger any flash on top of camera for fill light ttl or manual
    Camera+X11+tt860 or mitros + (Nikon)

    I use Nikon mitros + and receivers on a360 and control the power on hand with f16 transmitter

  36. royy 2 years ago

    I’ve been sending Godox my question about Sony compatibility few times. They never answered.
    What the heck Godox guys?!

    When Sony catches Nikon and Canon, there will be maybe other companies that do even better flash tools and then those who are late will lose by being so Canikon only? Whatever.

    For now, Godox could say something? Sony TTL compatibility comes or not? I would buy two of those lamps. THANKS!

  37. Hector 2 years ago

    Will a flash mirtos + work on top of cámara+X1 transmiten?

  38. paul 2 years ago

    I hope that they keep the possibility to remove the hotshoe

  39. Andrea 2 years ago

    So, what are the options to use this flash with Canon 600 EX-RTs? Ideally, I’d like this flash (or it’s smaller brother, if that light DOES get developed/produced, as was hinted at above) on-cam in ETTL, controlling the 600s in manual mode. Would that be possible? It’s so hard to keep all of the connectivity options straight in my head…

    • Ulysses 2 years ago

      Andrea, at least as I understand it, the new AD-360 II will not speak the same radio frequency “language” as the Canon 600EX-RT. However, it will most likely have no problem with the basic optical pulse method of controlling them, if you can place the 600EX-RT into receiving on optical pulse mode (I believe it’s called Optical Wireless in this case). The system obviously would not be as flexible or reliable as radio wireless, but it ought to work for many situations.

      However, as mentioned in earlier comments, I’m not so sure I’d use the AD-360 as an on-camera flash. It’s heavy, unwieldy, and there is some question as to whether its locking mechanism would keep it securely in the camera’s hotshoe. Personally, I find these super-flashes better suited to being mounted on a monopod / lightstick or on a light stand.

      And don’t worry — you’re NOT the only one working hard to keep all these new options straight in your head. But it’s exciting that we’re finally starting to see more helpful options in the world of lighting.

      • Mariosch 2 years ago

        Optical Wireless (Canon calls it Wireless E-TTL) on the 600 EX-RT would require a corresponding Wireless E-TTL Master, which I’m fairly certain the AD 360 II is not.

        You probably had in mind to simply let the 600 EX-RT trigger if any other flash around it is triggered – mostly, this option is called S1 (S2 for use with E-TTL flashes to deal with their pre-flash). But: Canon does not include such an option in their speedlights.

        A way of using the 600 EX-RT with the AD 360 II would probably be using an E3-RT Controller on camera (either original Canon ST-E3-RT or the Yongnuo YN-E3-RT) and separate Yongnuo YN-E3-RX receivers with the AD 360 II attached to it.
        The YN-E3-RX have a very limited list of speedlights guaranteed to be compatible, and I’m not exactly sure how they perform in reality compatibility-wise, so there’s a chance these won’t work with the AD 360 II.
        But: at least they should be able to trigger the AD 360 II, while these being controlled manually by an FT-16.

        Using the AD360 II on camera while triggering (or even remote-controlling) 600 EX-RT probably won’t work, though…

  40. Ulysses 2 years ago

    The specs in the article mention a “Canon Optic Wireless Mater & Slave Mode”, so at least that approach ought to work if someone wanted to control slave 600EX-RT flashes from an AD-360 master. i just don’t know that I would want to do so. 🙂

    • Mariosch 2 years ago

      @Ulysses:
      You’re right, it seems the AD 360 II does have optical master mode according to specs.
      So in this case, you should be able to control the Canon 600 EX-RT with an AD 360 on-camera – using optical data transmission.

      Not sure why anyone would really want to, but then again, I’m not sure why anyone would consider mounting a 360Ws (or a 180Ws) flash straight on-camera a good idea.

  41. Ulysses 2 years ago

    >>I’m not sure why anyone would consider mounting a 360Ws (or a 180Ws) flash straight on-camera a good idea.<<

    Precisely my earlier thought. It's heavy. And it's not terribly secure, unless Godox has made serious improvement to the foot and added a real locking pin.

    Instead, I'd probably work the other way around for the situation Andrea was originally asking about: Mount a Canon 600EX-RT to the camera, from which you could then fire the remote AD-360 flashes via wireless optical pulse. OR… you could finagle some way of attaching and connecting the newer version of the CheetahStand transmitter (Godox makes this part, but I'm not sure which guys carry it other than Cheetah).

    https://youtu.be/_VVPsOm8hfY

    • Mariosch 2 years ago

      >>Precisely my earlier thought. It’s heavy. And it’s not terribly secure, unless Godox has made serious improvement to the foot and added a real locking pin. <<

      The insecure mount and even the heavy weight aside: straight on-camera flash usually doesn't produce good light.
      I use it, too, sure, but only because running around all day with a light stand + modifier in one hand on an event is to much of a hassle for my taste 😉

      For all I do with on-camera flash – which usually means taking pictures of people relatively close to my camera – I don't need enormous amounts of power. For these kind of shots most of the time I open up my lens and slow down the shutter to capture as much ambient light as possible, using the on-camera flash to fill and freeze a bit the motion I get from shooting with a slow shutter. For all this, my speedlights were ever enough, no need to install the equivalent of 6 normal sized speedlights onto my camera 🙂

      Lighting up the background works better with independent flash, doing it from on-camera would probably result in an overexposed and blown out foreground…
      Maybe if the intention is to bounce of the light from a high and / or dark ceiling while walking around… but I'm not sure if the AD 360 would be the flash to do that.

      • Ulysses 2 years ago

        Indeed. Lots of reasons to place the AD-360 on a light stand rather than on-camera. But perhaps Andrea has some specialized purpose we don’t know about. It’s not the way you or I would go about it, but every photographer has some different goal in mind. 🙂

        Also, I suppose in the bigger context, while I prefer NOT having my CL-360 mounted to my camera, it’s probably no heavier than the rigs and brackets some guys use for mounting their flashes and other related event gear. Not my way of working either, but they work for some guys. )

        • Andrea 2 years ago

          http://www.amazon.com/-Camera-Techniques-Digital-Portrait-Photography/dp/1584282584/ref=asap_bc?ie=UTF8

          Neil V. makes a pretty good living using and teaching about bounced, on-cam, TTL flash. I know Ryan Brenizer uses it quite a bit, too, to very good effect. In my original comment, I indicated that I was going to wait for the TTL SMALLER version of the 360II, if it ever materializes. I agree that this version is likely too clunky for on-cam. But yes, I do like on-cam, bounced TTL flash in many situations where things are constantly changing – angles, subject-to-flash distance, etc.

  42. Andrea 2 years ago

    Oh, and I’m looking for something that won’t overheat…that’s why my Canon 600EX-RT isn’t cutting it (think First Kiss at weddings, other key moments where you need the flexibility of being able to shoot in rapid bursts if the situation calls for it).

  43. Ulysses 2 years ago

    Andrea, based on your initial question, bouncing is what I thought you might have in mind. Neil vN is a good personal friend of mine, and we chat frequently. He’s got some of the best lessons around, both online and in print, for aiding anyone in various lighting tools, light shapers, and lighting techniques. One of his first and foremost principles (mine too) is to keep it simple. Try not to complicate things if at all possible, especially in the context of wedding and event shooting.

    This is why I’d highly recommend NOT using this particular bare bulb flash on-camera in the way you originally asked about. There are several reasons: a) The AD-180 is still going to be rather larger than a flash like the Canon 600EX-RT, b) you’d still have the insecure foot with no secure locking mechanism, c) you’ve got the wrong light-shaping tool for efficient bouncing. This is why in general, the AD-180 and the AD-360 are usually best put to use off-camera. There are a LOT of ways to achieve your lighting goals, but I’d highly recommend going a different route other than placing these super-flashes atop your camera for event and wedding work.

    As for overheating the 600EX-RT, I’m honestly surprised you’re running into that problem. The easy answer is to tell you to be more precise and deliberate with your timing rather than relying upon rapid bursts to hopefully catch the defining moment… OR… maybe there’s a custom function on your 600EX-RT to disable the overheat warning. I don’t shoot that way, in rapid bursts, on a wedding day. But perhaps some small modification might give you a higher success rate with that flash.

  44. Andrea 2 years ago

    Ulysses, I just realized something (I think) – did you sell a Canon MKII in 2012? If you did (and I’m pretty sure you did), I AM THE ONE WHO BOUGHT IT FROM YOU!! How funny is that? Still serving me well, that old camera!

    So, as to your comments above – I’m aware of the insecure foot problem, but I think I read in some reviews that that particular issue had been rectified a while ago. I also read (and I think it was on this site…maybe not), that by the time you really start to compare the bare-bulb unit vs the speedlight, and all the potential triggers, brackets, etc, the weight/size difference got to the point of virtually being a tie between the two. As for shaping, I guess that might be an issue. I wonder if Neil’s Black Foamie Thing could be modified to work?

    As for the over-heating – it happens to me every time I use the flash on the camera, in ETTL, in big spaces. I’m never shooting in true burst mode, but instead I’m repeatedly pressing the shutter in very measured succession. That prompted me to get a battery pack, since the common wisdom is that the pack will allow for shorter recycle times (and the implication is that the speedlight can handle the shorter recycle times without the issue of overheating). Well, the battery pack didn’t help at all. While it may have reduced the recycle time, what good is that, if the flash is just going to overheat, right? So, that prompted me to start looking for alternatives, which led me to the bare-bulb.

    So, if Godox DO decide to make a smaller version of the TTL Witstro, I think I’d like to at least give it a try. If I like it, I may get rid of the Canons all together (which would stink, since they aren’t that old). The situation that I’m primarily using the on-cam is during church weddings. I like to have an ETTL on-cam and, if the church allows, I usually have a flash on either side of the aisle, half way down the aisle (manual flash). I love the look I get from this set-up and it would be perfect…if it weren’t for the over-heating.

    I will look into the custom function, as you suggested. It might be worthwhile.

  45. Ulysses 2 years ago

    Hahah!!!! That would be funny if you bought a camera from me. I honestly don’t remember, as Jenni is the one who actually sells most of my gear; I only BUY gear. I go through cameras like a 6-yr-old goes through a box of chicken nuggets. LOL!

    Here’s the thing: While you CAN place this flash in a hot shoe, I simply wouldn’t recommend it. To my knowledge, the current foot on the CL-360 (I’m using the CheetahStand designation from here on out rather than the Godox name) is the same as it ever was, with no locking pin. That MIGHT be different on this new 360 II version with TTL. But we’ll have to see.

    As for the shape of the light, again you CAN do it, but I don’t know that you’d really WANT to do it. Bare bulb light is expelled differently than the way a speedlight tube does. And so the black foamy thingie won’t really direct the light the way you’d wish, but will only absorb a significant amount of it.

    Too bad about the overheating of your 600EX-RT, though. Maybe a little more research on how others are getting by might help, especially now that this flash has been available for a while now. More time for people to have discussed it. AND… not that I expect it to be better per se, but maybe look into how the YongNuo YN600EX-RT performs in this respect. You never know, you might find some good news for your usage.

    Funny… we’ve never flashed in a church, even here on the cave-like east coast. So I’m guessing our shooting styles are simply different in that situation.

    I’m just thinking into this a bit more deeply. You may have another way you could approach this: You could keep those CL-360 units off-camera, while using a V860C on-camera (again, these are from CheetahStand). There are a couple of ways you could set this up, but here’s one:
    http://neilvn.com/forum/discussion/1350/godox-v860c-for-reception-ligthting

  46. Andrea 2 years ago

    I’m sure it was your camera… I checked my paperwork. What a funny coincidence!
    I’m also on the east coast (CT) and I’ve probably done half a dozen church weddings where I was allowed to use flash. I don’t need to anymore, with the great ISO performance of my MKIII…but I’ve grown to like the look.
    Thanks for the link about a possible set-up to try. Going to check it out in detail now. Photography is an expensive passion!!

  47. Matt 2 years ago

    Looks like amazon has it

    Godox Witstro AD360II-C TTL 360W GN80 Powerful Speedlite Flash Light + 4500mAh PB960 Lithium Battery for Canon EOS Camera (Black)

  48. Bertrand 2 years ago

    Good news!

    You can use the hot shoe of the X1T trigger to put your Godox transmitter 433MHZ on top and your additional speedlite V860C will work with the F16 system even in HSS! I just tried it and that is great! No need of my CellsII-C anymore, no separate triggers anymore, and it does not even look bad on top of the camera 🙂

    • Ulysses 2 years ago

      Bertrand, would you mind providing a photo of what this setup looks like? I’d like to have some idea of the relative size of the X1T sitting atop a standard DSLR, and if it’s something I’d even consider. Personally, I’d rather not stack multiple radios like this due to the inherent instability of the system and risk of something being damaged during the course of crowded event or wedding shooting. But then again, I don’t care to carry extra radios in my pocket either. So I’m on the fence here. However, it’s good to know that this approach actually WORKS!

    • Ulysses 2 years ago

      Bertrand, one more question: Can you verify whether or not the AD-360 II has a locking pin on its foot? Or is the design in this respect just like the Mark 1 version of the foot, with only the friction locking dial? Thanks (and if you have a photo of that, too, it would be appreciated as I don’t think anyone has yet shown what the foot looks like).

  49. Andy 2 years ago

    Question.

    I have the Godox AD360 wistro. Will the Godox X1-C TTL flash trigger allow me to use HSS and change the power settings with this single trigger?

    Or do I have to buy the new Godox wistro TTL to allow me to do this.

    (I have the Yongnuo and ft-16 set up already so just want to know if I can swap these two for the single Godox X1-C flash trigger)

    * NB. I am not looking for TTL capability I just want a single flash trigger for HSS instead of two.

    Many thanks,

    Andy

  50. Niels Gram 2 years ago

    The Codox X1-C can not talk directly to the current ft-16 but there are rumors of an updated ft-16 that is directly compatible. At present you will still need the current ft-16. If your current triggers work for you then stay with them and wait for an updated ft-16 for the X1-C system.

    Judging by the number of posts on the AD360II-C on this site it will be a huge success 🙂

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 2 years ago

      Just to be clear, that’s a new receiver coming which should replace the 433MHz FTR-16 receivers, and be compatible with the 2.4GHz X1-C transmitter.

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