INTERFIT – S1 – TTL & HSS Li-ion Strobe (Now Available)

Interfit S1


Interfit have announced the new S1, TTL & High Speed Sync enabled 500Ws portable strobe, with 2.4GHz radio built-in for Canon and Nikon DSLR systems.

The S1 are the worlds first strobe providing all in one TTL and HSS, with built-in Lithium-ion battery power, and multi voltage AC power adapter.

Each Interfit S1 strobe comes standard with both Li-ion battery pack and AC power source (for location and studio use).

UPDATE – Sony TTL and HSS support is now available with the S1.


Interfit S1


2.4GHz TTL radio transmitters are available for Canon, Nikon and Sony DSLR systems, and provide 3 individual Groups (A / B / C).

HSS to 1/8000th shutter speed is also available.


Interfit S1






  • 500Ws – GN48.7m (160’) – ISO 100, 1/125s
  • Flash Modes – ETTL / I-TTL / Manual
  • HSS to 1/8000th (down to 1/16 power)
  • FEC – 1/3rd Increments (±3 Stops)
  • Manual Power – 2.0 – 10.0 (1/10th Increments), 9 Stop Range
  • Interfit 2.4GHz Radio System Built In
  • Canon / Nikon / Sony TTL Radio Slave Modes
  • Range – 100m+
  • 3 Groups – A / B / C
  • Multiple Channels
  • Basic Optic Slave Mode
  • 4500mAh Li-Ion Battery Pack
  • 350 Full Power Flashes
  • 3 Second Recycle Time at Full Power (AC Powered S1a 2 Seconds)
  • AC Power adapter (Multi Voltage: 100V – 240V)
  • IGBT Technology
  • Flash Duration – 1/1000 – 1/9000 (Max-Min Power)
  • Color Temperature – 5700k +/- 100k
  • Large LCD Display
  • 10W LED Modeling Light
  • Fan Cooled
  • Auto Dump
  • Temperature Regulation
  • Bowens S-Type Mount
  • Strong Aluminium Body
  • Frosted Glass Diffuser Dome (Protects Flash Tube)
  • USB Port for Firmware Upgrades
  • 3.5mm Sync Port





Each Interfit S1 comes standard with both battery, and AC power sources.

The interchangeable 4500mAh Li-Ion battery provides up to 350 full power flashes in Manual and TTL modes and over 400 full power flashes in High Speed Sync mode.

For traditional studio work, the S1 also ships with an AC power pack. The multi-voltage adapter can be used anywhere in the world (100-240v).






The S1 provide, TTL, Manual, and HSS (High Speed Sync) shooting modes.

Interfit’s new S1 Remote for Canon, Nikon, & Sony enables photographers to take advantage of their camera’s TTL system just like they would with a speedlight.

This automated light output uses the S1’s entire 9 stop power range (500Ws – 1.9Ws), is automatically calculated in 1/10th stop increments, and allows for +/- 3 stops of exposure compensation (adjustable in 1/3 stops).

The S1 also provides a traditional manual mode. Manual shooting mode also utilizes the entire 9 stop power range, controllable in 1/10th stop increments (2.0 – 10.0).

While in manual mode, users gain access to the S1’s High Speed Sync mode, reaching shutter speeds up to 1/8000th of a second. High Speed Sync mode utilizes the top 3 stops in the power range and is manually adjustable in 1/3rd stop increments.


Interfit S1




Utilizing IGBT technology, the S1 is able to offer short flash durations while maintaining color accuracy throughout the power range.

Flash duration ranges from 1/1,000 at full power, down to 1/9,000 at minimum power.

By shortening the flash durations color accuracy is also improved, providing consistent 5700k (+/-100k) color temperature throughout the entire power range.




The S1 camera-mounted transmitter is available for Canon, Nikon and Sony camera’s and supports E-TTL ll and i-TTL etc protocol.

Three individual groups are provided, and a working range of up to 100m (300’).


Interfit S1





Interfit have also released the S1a, AC only version of the S1 strobe. The S1a has all of the same features as the S1 without the battery.

This S1a is designed primarily for use in studio, or for photographers who have already invested in external power packs with sine wave inverters.

Slightly smaller than the S1, the S1a works seamlessly with its battery-powered counterpart at a 40% lower price point.




With durability a priority for portable flash units, the S1 and the S1a provide a strong and lightweight aluminum body rather than plastic.

A frosted glass diffuser dome is also included to protect the flash tube.

Both the S1 and S1a feature the widely-used Bowens® S-Type modifier mount, giving users hundreds of high quality and affordable modifier options to choose from including Interfit’s line of softboxes, reflectors, grids, beauty dishes and more.

A mini-USB cable is included with every light, allowing for firmware updates when new cameras are released.


Interfit S1




Specifications S1 S1a
Maximum Watt/Seconds 500Ws
Guide Number100ISO, 1/125sec., 3m (10’) 48.7m (160’)
Flash Power Range 79 Stops (2.0 – 10.0)
Flash Variability 1/10th stop increments
Recycle Time 3 sec. (AC & DC) 2 sec.
Flash Duration 1/1,000 – 1/9,000 (max-min power)
Color Temperature 5700k +/- 100k
Modeling Lamp 10w LED (off, 50%, 100%)
Wireless Control Interfit TTL-C/N 2.4GHz RemoteSync Port, IR/Optical
Shooting Modes Manual, TTL (Canon/Nikon), HSS
Maximum Sync Speed 1/250 sec. In normal sync mode1/8000 sec. in High Speed Sync mode
Operating Voltage 100-240 VAC 110 VAC or 220VAC
DC Battery Type 4500mAh Li-Ion
Battery Life 350 full power flashes
Battery Charge Time 3 Hours
Fan Cooled Yes
Auto Dump Yes
Temperature Regulation Yes
Dimensions (Length x Diameter)Inc. glass dome and handle) 34 x 13cm  (13.4 x 5.1”) 32 x 13cm  (12.6 x 5.1”)
WeightInc. battery (S1 only) 2.85kg  (6.3lb) 2.25kg  (4.9lb)



Interfit will be debuting the S1 and S1a at the PDN Photoplus Expo (booth #358) in New York City, Oct. 22-24, 2015.





Interfit’s S1 TTL & HSS Strobes are available now from $729.99 for the AC/DC version –


Interfit S1 AC/DC TTL Strobe -$729.99 – Adorama, B&H PhotoEbay

Interfit S1a AC TTL Strobe – $499.99 – Adorama, B&H Photo


Interfit TTL-C Remote for Canon – $99.99 – Adorama, B&H Photo

Interfit TTL-N Remote for Nikon – $99.99 – Adorama, B&H Photo

Interfit TTL-S Remote for Sony – $99.99 –  adorama, B&H Photo


Spare Battery for Interfit S1 – $199.99 – Adorama, B&H Photo

AC Power Pack for S1 Strobe – $199 – Adorama, B&H Photo


Interfit – Website


  1. nixland 5 years ago

    So the difference with Profoto B1 is multi voltage AC adapter?

    Is it multi light pulse HSS or light tail HSS?

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 5 years ago

      Yes, and the price is different 🙂

      The HSS mode is multi light pulse like a speedlite.

  2. Reginald 5 years ago

    It will be interesting to see how this compares to the B1’s.

  3. Niels Gram 5 years ago

    If the trigger had been directly compatible with the Canon -RT system (or rather the YNE3-RT) I would get a S1 in a heartbeat… I would like to have something like the S1/Indra/K4T as main light in my otherwise Canon -RT based flash setup.

    • Ryan Beuke 5 years ago

      I always wondered why Canon/ Nikon dont make their own Radio controlled strobes, They could be priced in line with profoto anything higher would be too much.

      • Matt 5 years ago

        I think it would be so freaking smart for them. Bowens mount so they wouldn’t have to come up with their own modifiers. 600ex at $500, a 250ws ettl strobe at $1000 and a 500ws at $1500. Battery pack that’ll work for both at $300-500.

    • Jared 5 years ago

      It would be nice if these strobes worked with the Canon-RT system, but not likely, unless Interfit were to offer modular receivers for it; because not everyone will want/need to use the Canon-RT system (especially Nikon users).

      Canon and Nikon aren’t likely to make radio-controlled strobes. They’ve been too busy ignoring Sony, and now they have LOTS of catching-up to do in the mirrorless department.

      Many other companies are already doing a very good job building strobes, so there’s no market for Canon or Nikon. When you consider how much money a Speedlite costs; could you imagine how much a ‘grown up’ strobe from Canon or Nikon would cost?!?

    • Michael 3 years ago

      I purchased this unit used for 419 from adorama, I also purchased the remote 89.00 and yes I also wish it was compatible with the RT system, to work around this I purchased a yongnuo rx tiger and plug it into the sync of the s1 and can work as many rx flashes as needed.

  4. moise 5 years ago

    I hope i can play with one of these at the Expo…The price point is exactly where it should be.

    • Steven 5 years ago

      Moise, we will have these at the Photoplus Expo next week in New York. Come by booth 358 and check them out for yourself!

      Look forward to seeing you there!

      Steven Squires
      Product Manager
      Interfit Photographic

      • moise 5 years ago

        Yes, very interested in meeting up with you. I have a lot of questions.

      • Ulysses 5 years ago

        Steven, this looks very interesting. I’m chock-full of lights right now. But hey… it doesn’t hurt to look at more! LOL! Will check out your booth at Photo Plus. Thanks!

  5. daemorhedron 5 years ago

    Interesting, but disappointing again to not see Sony listed. Wonder if manual mode HSS would work though?

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 5 years ago

      Hi daemorhedron,

      The HSS can apparently work with Sony if you use some other Sony HSS enabled radio triggers like the Phottix Odin for Sony (or discontinued Pixel Kings for Sony), and connect them to the flashes sync port.

      At this stage you still need the Canon or Nikon S1 transmitter to turn the HSS mode on, though Interfit are working on a firmware update which will allow the HSS mode to be switched on directly on the flash itself.

      Sony TTL compatibility is apparently planned for the S1 eventually, though no estimated time frame available at this point.

  6. JL Williams 5 years ago

    Finally a fully-cordless unit that ticks all the boxes: S-mount, IGBT, HSS/TTL (with the ‘usual suspect’ brands) and — smart move! — an AC adapter included. The AC capability will make many users feel safer in choosing this as their go-to flash for both studio and on-location use.

    Too bad the only remote options at this stage are Canon and Nikon — but maybe eventually Interfit (or whatever its Chinese OEM is) will wise up and offer a generic transmitter offering (at least) remote power control for users of Pentax, Sony, Micro Four Thirds, Fuji, Leica, medium format, film cameras, and the rest of the universe.

    My pet peeve: Why are manufacturers so fixated on introducing new flashes only in the 500ws-and-up range? Not ALL of us constantly need to do that cliched “beat-the-sun” effect. Some of us shoot mostly in indoor environments at wide apertures, and would prefer a flash that could be throttled back to lower power settings — especially if that also made it a little more compact, less expensive, and with more flashes per charge. My current studio lights are only 200ws, and I usually have to turn them down a couple of stops so I can shoot at f/2 or wider…

    • moise 5 years ago

      This automated light output uses the S1’s entire 7 stop power range (500Ws – 7.8Ws), is automatically calculated in 1/10th stop increments, and allows for +/- 3 stops of exposure compensation (adjustable in 1/3 stops).

      you have that range available for you in this unit as well. The big advantage is having the 500 when you need it also (i.e. while shooting dancing at a wedding in a large hall at iso400 f8 1/200)

  7. Will 5 years ago

    Wow! might be replacing rovelights with these! would be nice to have a proper trigger.

  8. Dan 5 years ago

    Of course right after I bought an HD600 V. I had a feeling someone was about to come out with something like this.

  9. Ricardo Gomez 5 years ago

    This is what the Profoto B1 500 Air should’ve been.

    It’s such a great product but without an AC option, it really hurts its versatility. I’m sure Profoto did it on purpose as to not butcher sales of their AC-only units. Really, how many photographers need more than 500W/s regularly?

    I was looking at Phottix to invest my lighting needs with. It’s a fantastic system. However, I never liked the external battery pack on the strobes. On the 300W/s it’s almost a non-issue. But it’s there. However the performance and dependability is highly noted.

    I have to look at the Interfit system now. I have always been interested in their Pro-Flash units as well. All that power in a tiny package. Their lighting options is quite expansive in general.

    I hope the S1 TTL Remote can control all of their lighting systems. Their current units look so clunky. And they got to get rid of dip switches. Even with their receivers. Nothing made after 2000 should have them.

    This is a big score for Interfit.

    • Ulysses 5 years ago

      >>I was looking at Phottix to invest my lighting needs with. It’s a fantastic system. However, I never liked the external battery pack on the strobes. On the 300W/s it’s almost a non-issue. But it’s there. However the performance and dependability is highly noted.<<

      The Phottix Indra500 has been a great performer for me so far, even though I started out with some concerns as to whether or not it would prove consistent. In real-world shooting, it's actually been great. As for the battery, I agree with the thought that I'd prefer having an internal battery rather than extra cables and having something dangling from the light stand. HOWEVER… an internal battery adds to the weight of the head and makes things top-heavy (for example, the Interfit S1 head with battery weighs 6.3 lbs whereas the Indra500 weighs 4.6 lbs. You'll notice that on a light stand with a modifier or if you're trying to use it in a run & gun situation. Additionally, the battery itself is surprisingly small (though not quite as small as the one that comes with the Indra360. They're both good systems, and it's nice having such great options finally become available.

      • Matt 5 years ago

        I would disagree with you on the run and gun idea. I use a 1600 with a vagabond mini and I freaking cannot stand having that extra battery flopping around, on my shoulder while moving from location to location while I’m also carrying a sand bag too. 2 lbs is 2 lbs whether it’s up top or spread in between the top and another thing to carry and lug around. I’m still going to have a sand bag on my light stand. Even if I have a bracket to hold the flash, it’s something I need to be cognitive of, and be gentle when placing the stand and aware of the cord dangling. When I put my stand into the brush because that’s where I need it for the shot, out here in the desert almost all plants have thorns and cords catch on them, the cord always catches while moving out.

        Any gust of wind will blow over an umbrella, whether it’s a speedlite or a strobe. For me, I want it all in one package. And I’m having the hardest time deciding.

        For the record I’m far from your level of work but I’m an avid strobist. I like dynamic images so I light my subjects. There’s very little time during the day where the sun is not harsh and I’ve, for some reason, had a consistent weddings where the formals will be taken outside in afternoon light.

        Initially I was going to buy the Indra 360 as I use Odins and have a mitros and a mitros+
        Ugh, decisions decisions.

        • Ulysses 5 years ago

          I hear ya, bro. I don’t think there’s much to disagree about. We’re simply talking about personal preference and available options here. 🙂

          I really (and I mean REALLY) don’t like the weight on top of the stand. Case in point. I utilize both the Indra500 system, with its battery on a strap; however, I also have the Cheetah Light CL-360, which has a battery bracket I can attach to a light stand or monopod light stick. When I need the power or just want something less “fiddly” to assemble, I go with the Indra500. But its higher weight becomes a serious real-world problem when we have a LOT of walking or hiking to get to our destination. The noticeably lighter weight CL-360 can be an advantage in that situation even though it might be underpowered and require me to shoot closer to the subject.

          With the Indra500 I found I’ve been loosely winding the power cord and hanging it off the strobe handle to keep it out of the way. With the CL-360 the cord is of the coiled variety and isn’t a problem at all. In a run & gun situation I’m also not using large modifiers, sometimes sticking only with the default 5″ or 7″ reflector and diffuser dish. When I know I’m going to be in one location and not moving around a lot, I’ll bring larger modifiers, which are a lot of fun to use but a serious pain to carry around or manage when it’s windy.

          I like the CONCEPT of having everything built in, but I’ve also had plenty of gear fall over even when weighted and sandbagged. One solution would be to just go ahead and get the C-stand I’ve been telling myself I’d buy for years now. But then we’re getting even heavier and harder to pack into my trunk. LOL

          Just like you said: Decisions decisions. EITHER way is a compromise and a set of consequences as well as benefits. 🙂

          • Matt 5 years ago

            I like you Ulysses. Your openness to opinions is refreshing, Your examples and scenarios of experience are well accepted by me. My b1600 has taken a tumble too. I’ve had a c-stand in my ‘cart’ for almost a year. haha.
            I’m still trying to figure out what I want, what will help me get the image I have in mind while not taking me away from my clients. I’m more technical than personable so I need to keep as much of the conversation/interaction going as possible
            So for tonight’s engagement, instead of the b1600 I took a double speedlite setup with an umbrella. The weight didn’t bother me and I liked not having to hold an extra battery pack but it was clumsy(tri-flash with only 2 on it. Odin’s triggering).

            • Ulysses 5 years ago

              Matt, although I’ve been at this for quite a while now, I figure there’s always so much to learn. You find tools and a method that works well for you, and you go with that. But you should never stop learning either. Otherwise, things get really stagnant. Plus the pace at which technology changes and improves keep all of us on our toes. 🙂

              C-stand in the cart. YEP!!!! You should see my B&H wish list. I’ve got three or four different configurations of C-stand in there! Haven’t bought a single one of them. YET. LOL

  10. Ales Tomis 5 years ago

    I have only one question:
    Is the HSS available only on M mode, or on TTL mode also?
    Thanks for answer.

    • Ganesh 5 years ago

      Above Mentioned >>Only in manual mode

    • Paul R 5 years ago

      I think it’s important to note this difference- the Protfoto B1 and B2 Air units can do TTL exposures simultaneously.

      That’s a big potential time saver shooting in fast changing situations.

      • Paul R 5 years ago

        What I meant to say was TTL AND HSS simultaneously.

  11. Earle 5 years ago

    Another promising entry in the 500 watt HSS/TTL arena. But given that Interfit typically rebrands gear made by others, who’s actually making this unit?

    • Charlie 5 years ago

      The S1 is actually designed and manufactured from the ground up by Interfit itself.

      • Earle 5 years ago

        Really? I wasn’t aware Interfit was involved with manufacturing too, since all the Interfit gear I have has been some sort of clone. As a set, these could be very intriguing, especially if the color is consistent between the S1 and S1a. It’d be possible to build a mixed set for both studio and location use (there are times when you can get plugs on location and then outdoors — for my use — I’ve never needed more than two lights).

        • JL Williams 5 years ago

          Since the S1 comes with a mains adapter included, why wouldn’t you just use the same units for studio and location? I can’t see much point to the S1a except for people who NEVER plan to run on battery power.

          • Earle 5 years ago

            You’re exactly right (though in the U.S. a Vagabond Mini Lithium and an S1a would be less expensive than an S1).

            I have at times used five lights at an indoor location and as many as six at a friend’s studio. At the current list price, one can almost buy two S1a units for the price of one S1. I haven’t used more than two lights (plus the sun) on an outdoor location.

            For my purposes, if I was building a studio kit, I wouldn’t need more than two S1s. In fact, two S1s and three S1a’s would cost less than the Profoto B1 two light kit.

          • Charlie 5 years ago

            Yeah, we expect the S1 will be the hot seller. Correct, the S1a is meant for exclusive studio photographers, for example who need HSS and color accuracy with 1.2 aperture lenses.

  12. Matt 5 years ago

    Can I get the S1a and use my vagabond and only pay $600 for an ettl w/ HSS? It doesn’t get rid of cords for me but it’s an option…..

    • Charlie 5 years ago

      You can, although the battery life will be much longer with the S1 battery than a vagabond as the vagabond (at least in my experience with respect to my vagabond mini lithium ion battery pack connected to a prototype S1a) drains battery because of the nature of the sine wave inverter, power outlet and the additional fan and also heats up rather quickly when in its carrying case (the fan is located where the bag has no outlet). Also, the vagabond takes up space because of the sine wave inverter and power outlets, not to mention the additional set up time and light-stand-mounting fixtures required (the kacey bracket, for instance) for larger light stands and c-stands.

      • Jared 5 years ago

        Agreed. It’s much more efficient to power the unit with DC.

        With the Vagabond, you’re converting its DC battery energy to AC (loss of energy), supplying that AC energy to the light, and converting the AC energy back to DC energy inside the light (loss of energy again).

        DC input is the most efficient way to use power for a system like this.

  13. JL Williams 5 years ago

    Another question just occurred to me: The S1 specs quote a recycle time of 3 sec. for either AC or DC, which seems a bit lackluster. Normally with IGBT units you expect the recycling time to get faster at lower power settings; will that be the case here, I wonder?

    • Charlie 5 years ago

      3 Second Recycle Time at Full Power. Lower power outputs speed up recycle time in any flash as the capacitor takes less time to dump and recharge.

      • Author
        Flash Havoc 5 years ago

        Hi Charlie,

        Thanks for providing some more details on the lights.

        Would you know if the transmitter will fire and remote control the lights when mounted on single firing pin or non Canon/Nikon cameras (generally mirrorless cameras).

        Also regarding light meter use, do you know if there is any pre-flash when using remote manual power levels, with either the Canon or Nikon version?

        If the transmitter unit is held in hand, can it change the power levels on the flash, or is the flash set to TTL mode for remote manual use as well? (which is sometimes/often the case for Nikon radio systems).


        • Charlie 5 years ago

          No problem. We’ve been quite busy with business trips and finalizing the S1 for its launch, so I apologize for the delay in responding.

          Probably not, although we haven’t tested this extensively ourselves. We’re working on a few of these brands to bring native TTL/HSS compatibility to them. The interim solution at the moment would be to use a manual trigger and receiver set with the S1 sync port.

          No pre-flash in manual mode so that should make it compatible with light meters in that mode. TTL mode obviously has the pre-flash.

          Yes, both the Canon and Nikon remotes can adjust manual power levels when hand-held.

  14. Jared 5 years ago

    If the modeling lamp is only a 10 watt LED, I can’t see it as replacing many studio strobes.
    But for portable work, where a modeling lamp isn’t as necessary, these would be perfect!

    • moise 5 years ago

      I asked them about making the led brighter and also about having the led to be a visual recycle indicator just like to profoto. They told me that they would look into it before release.

  15. andy 5 years ago

    And As always no no Sony Interface Flash HSS Remote or compability .

    • jonas 5 years ago

      Thats really annoying, why not is sony harder to reverse engineering?

    • Ulysses 5 years ago

      The annoyance over a lack of Sony support is something that comes up with nearly every major flash and strobe manufacturer. But there’s an obvious reason for you don’t see it, at least in the early releases. The surest $$$$ is in supporting Canon and Nikon. Once you get that side of things off the ground and you’ve gauged interest and discovered what your support costs really are, then you can begin addressing companies that frankly have fewer users and therefore fewer opportunities to contribute to a profit. This is the case unless you’re a niche player with a very narrow interest in companies that don’t get the same level of support that Canon and Nikon do.

      Phottix, for example, is one that has begun supporting Sony with both flash and strobe and transmitter options. But that support isn’t yet complete even there. They’ve promised to improve it over the coming months. So we just have to be patient while Sony grows market- and mindshare. It’s coming.

      • Charlie 5 years ago

        As far as we know, you can’t actually buy Sony non-Minolta triggers from anywhere, at least in North America. For compatibility, we have Sony and and a few other additional camera brands in the pipeline.

    • Reginald 5 years ago

      Volume, Volume, Volume…

  16. J 5 years ago

    This is great. For around the price of one Profoto B1 one can get two S1s. So getting these if they work as advertised!

  17. Will 5 years ago

    Will the transmitter be able to control the power or any other smaller flashes?

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 5 years ago

      Hi Will,

      Not at this stage unfortunately.

      That’s likely the one weaker point of the S1 and the Profoto B1. Where Phottix and Godox etc have a head start on crating larger systems with numerous compatible lights and radio triggers.

  18. taro irei 5 years ago

    two questions:
    – can you fire this strobe’S HSS mode with the canon st-e3 transmiter if you plug a yongnuo yne3-rx receiver on the strobe?
    – is there a limit to the HSS number of consecutive pops? The flash i sue now overheats at 10 pops.

    Thank you in advance for your time

    • Charlie 5 years ago

      If it has a sync port out like the Pocketwizard TT5, you can use the yne3-rx receiver plugged into the S1 sync port and long-press the beep button for activating HSS mode independently of the remote used.

      At $99 though, we do recommend you splurge a little bit on the S1 remote which gives you remote commander abilities and eliminates cords when you’re not mixing 600EXRT’s with the system.

      No limit or slow-down on recycle time for consecutive pops in HSS. Battery life actually goes up to 400 full power HSS pops from 350 normal full power pops.

  19. Darryl 5 years ago

    One great benefit of the Profoto B1 is that you can take a frame in TTL mode then immediately switch to manual and keep the same exposure level. Then you can shoot a constant exposure in manual. When your subject changes location you can “re-meter” back on TTL from the controller again. This takes most of the guess work out of finding the right exposure and not waste time taking extra shots to find exposure.

    Will the S1 have this feature?

    • moise 5 years ago

      As of now the S1 does not have this function. The TTL only works in Manual mode. You will have to do a little guessing work, but this may be something that they can update with software in the future. Both the flash head and remote have usb ports for future updates.

  20. Darryl 5 years ago

    Another difference between these units is that it appears that the S1 has an exposed Bulb where the Profoto head has a flat front from its built-in reflector.

    This would seem to make the Profoto better used with umbrellas where the S1 better in softboxes.

    • Charlie 5 years ago

      The S1 comes with a frosted glass dome and 7 inch bowens reflector included.

  21. Charlie 5 years ago

    Which basically makes the S1 better for both umbrellas and softboxes! 😀

  22. nixland 5 years ago

    Wait ..the hss only works in M mode? Why is that ??

    • moise 5 years ago

      That’s what I asked them. The TTL works at all power levels up to 1/250 or 1/200 depending on your camera. However once you go into HSS the TTL is disabled and you will be shooting in manual power control.

  23. Paul R 5 years ago

    I have to tell you, that no TTL when using HSS is a bit of a drag when the profoto b1 and Indras have that capability.

  24. Jared 5 years ago

    I prefer manual anyway, so I’m fine with that.

    • Ulysses 5 years ago

      Same here. Manual all the way. I use TTL on rare occasions, so it’s handy to have. But manual control is always your reliable friend. Funny thing is that I also believe that if you know your lights and your camera really well, then knowing how your system’s TTL functions operate is also important. It’s simply important to know where it will also fail you.

  25. Moise 5 years ago

    It may be a drag, but it won’t be a drag on my wallet… And with the plug in advantage, to me is a bit wise on their part. The Indra is a drag to shlep that pack, so the all in one head design is assistant proof

  26. Ulysses 5 years ago

    I generally don’t use an assistant to carry the gear. Even when there are two of us on a job, I’m usually carrying my gear and the light myself. So I think this simply comes down to personal preference. While I’d ideally like to have the battery and head all-in-one, I actually would rather NOT have all that weight up on top of the light stands. The Indra500 battery is small and light enough that it’s not the same sort of issue as those systems that utilize big or awkward power packs. In fact, the more I use it, the easier it is to manage it. But I do get it… having battery and head all-in-one makes for a couple fewer challenges, at least mentally if not in actual practice.

  27. Paul R 5 years ago

    Manual exposure is great in the studio on a seamless background where your subject stand on and ask that you put in gaffer tape on the floor.

    On location, with moving subjects, manual flash exposure is slow and limiting.

    TTL and HSS together is a powerful tool when working under demanding circumstances and time constraints

    I’d rather rent lights that had this feature, then own lights that did not

  28. Ulysses 5 years ago

    >>On location, with moving subjects, manual flash exposure is slow and limiting.<<

    This will largely depend upon your shooting style, skill level, and personal preferences. TTL certainly has its place, and it can be useful in some situations. That said, even for event shooters, manual can be more effective and reliable for your overall workflow due to its consistency. But again, that's dependent upon a number of factors that we don't have time to go into here.

    I do find HSS to be more consistently useful than TTL, at least in our studio.

    What's becoming more and more interesting as we see the availability of a growing number of great lighting options such as the recent SMDV BRiHT-360, manufacturers almost NEED to offer them with TTL and HSS if they want to compete. Even if not all pros need it, a larger segment of buyers (read… money-generating consumers) demand it. Even the Godox bare-bulb AD-360 II has worked up to that level. The winners are the buyers as competition increases between manufacturers.

  29. Mikhail 5 years ago

    Has there been anymore news on this flash? I’m ready to shed myself of some money that’s been holding me down!!! lol

  30. Darryl 5 years ago

    BH photo is saying 7-14 days. Some additional photos as well.

  31. Jakob Gronkjaer 4 years ago

    It’s worth pointing out that the phoblographer ‘review’ was actually of a pre-production unit and most of the issues he raised (including the battery drain on the transmitter) were fixed in firmware prior to release.

    I’ve got a review of this unit coming shortly (full disclosure; I have been selected as an Interfit Brand Ambassador) but in the meantime you can see a short unboxing video here;

    Feel free to ask any questions – I may be representing them as an ambassador, but I wouldn’t use shoddy goods for client shoots. Product quality matters just as much to me as everyone else.

  32. Tyronne 4 years ago

    At Imaging USA 2016, I purchased a pair of Interfit S1 and Softboxes. I absolutely love everything about them. I primarily use one as the background illumination with the 7″ reflector, and the other with the softbox or primary model light. The setup is even more impressive when you can consider that you can take this on the field with you. The Interfit S1 has a battery in each and I cant tell you how many shots I have taken, but the charge is still at 100%. This eliminates the need for a separate battery pack. My buddies with their Profoto B setups are always complaining. I am learning to use manual mode more often in a controlled environment, but out on the field is too hectic most of the time, and I need to rely on TTL as a quick and dirty. But if you have time and control of the elements (ambient, light, etc. or even night time) then manual mode is good with a great sekonic light meter or what have you

  33. Sarobar Kasaju 3 years ago

    Anyone know how do I use this light with pocketwizards?

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 3 years ago

      Hi Sarobar,

      Do you mean basic single firing pin PocketWizards like the Plus III etc? If so you would just connect one to the strobe via sync cord as a receiver.

      The Control TL units are not going to have any remote control of the strobe. You could only use those to fire the flash with a receiver attached as above. And in either case you would need to use the Interfit transmitter as well for remote power adjustments.

  34. Neil 3 years ago

    I don’t understand “Auto dump” in the context of an IGBT strobe. It doesn’t make sense. Can someone explain?

  35. jay 2 years ago

    Auto dump means the light has a feature built in to get rid of potential power stored by the Monolight’s capacitor. Most higher end units tend to have this feature. Otherwise one would have to hit the test button to get rid the light power. This is critical when you change your light power settings. Hope this helps.

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