YongNuo YN-622C ETTL Trigger Review

Time to toss the Manual triggers? Maybe not quite, but the new YongNuo YN-622C are certainly going to shake things up, at least for Canon speedlite users.

The original YN RF-602 triggers were a breakthrough for budget reliable triggers, and the YN-622C looking set to do the same for Remote Manual, TTL and HSS triggers. We are already seeing listings as low as $75 a pair shipped. Which is less than a mid range set of manual-only triggers.

If you use speedlites at all, the convenience of remote control from the camera is really hard to overlook at this price, even if it’s just for the remote Manual control. TTL and HSS may be just a bonus.


UPDATE – June 2014 – The YN-622C-TX transmitter units are now also available to control YN-622C as receiver units. The YN-622C-TX provides a faster built in LCD interface, and also provides significant added features like the ability to mix Remote Manual and TTL groups at the same time.

UPDATE – January 2015 – YN-622C units produced after December 15th 2014 now provide direct compatibility with the remote manual YN560-TX transmitter units.

UPDATE – August 2015 – YN622C II are now available, adding a quick release lever locking hotshoe, USB port for firmware updates, and easily selectable YN560-RX mode.

UPDATE – August 2015 – YN685 Speedlites are now available, with YN-622C and RF-603 / YN-560 radio receivers built inside.




The YN-622C allow full Remote Manual Power Control, as well as HSS, and ETTL from the Canon camera flash control menu (requires camera with flash control menu and compatible flashes).

The YN-622C allow ETTL Ratios, and they have a pass through style hotshoe on top which allows flash on camera use in ETTL or Manual. As well as a basic focus assist light which works reasonably well.

Being transceiver units (both transmitter and receiver in the same unit) allows for back up transmitter units. And build quality is generally very good for the low price (though there have been some minor quality control issues at times).

YongNuo also have the advantage of having a bunch of their own inexpensive compatible flash units, even a HSS version in the YN-568EX II already selling at $105 and lower.

The one ever important omission though is the lack of USB port for firmware updates. UPDATE – USB ports are now included withe YN622C II models.




UPDATE 2015 – The YN-622C have been available for a number of years now and have set the standard for inexpensive ETTL triggers. They are now easily the most popular TTL triggers currently sold.

The YN-622C where reasonably stable and reliable when first released in 2012, and with numerous software and hardware updates over the years they have improved further to be generally quite hassle free.

Providing quite complex processing (compared to simple manual radio triggers) it is still possible for the YN-622C to lose communication on occasions. And this usually just requires turning the transmitter unit on and off to quickly reboot the system before they return to normal use again.

If issues still remain then a quick Factory Reset of all the units usually resolves these. If you’re experiencing any unusual behavior a Factory Reset will often resolve those.

For the price there is no question the YN-622C are generally exceptional value. Though like anything built to a price the YN-622C production can suffer from quality control issue from time to time, so it pays to take note of the sellers return / exchange policy.

YongNuo themselves will provide 12 months warranty from date of manufacture, though you will be required to pay return shipping costs to China.


Back to 2012 –

So far all indications are very good, everything seems to be working as advertised. No misfires or random fires and range is around 50-60 meters (and sometimes more line of sight), which is generally enough.

I had one small issue from the start where the camera would not go over x-sync without a HSS flash attached, though a quick factory reset of the triggers resolved that, and no problems since. Note – If you ever do have an issue, or suspect lack of compatibility with a camera or flash etc try the Factory Reset.

The convenience of remote Manual control capability alone is really great for the price, then the ETTL and HSS are very handy too. The AF assist light is also something I have been campaigning for for a long time, and it does a reasonable decent job.

The only issues I noticed otherwise were the test fire button is not so easy to feel for on the side of the case, and you can easily bump the channel button instead putting the Tx off channel accidentally. I’m going to stick something onto the test button just so its raised a little and I can feel where it is easily.

The other thing is the locking rings are far too small and it can be hard to tighten and loosen on the camera sometimes. The 622C case is also flat on top which is not friendly to locking ring access on the pass through shoe either. That seems ok with most flash units, but placing another trigger on top for example, also with a small locking ring, is almost impossible to access.

Note – the YN622C II now resolve the locking ring issues by providing a quick release lever locking foot.



  • ETTL Ratios and FEC set from the camera menu (ALL/ A:B/ A:B C)
  • HSS (High Speed Sync) up to 1/8000th (with compatible flash units)
  • Remote Manual Power Control in 3 groups from the camera menu
  • Flash On Camera in ETTL or Manual via Pass Through Hotshoe
  • Mix ETTL on camera flash with manual off camera (must be set directly on flash)
  • Good Focus Assist light on the Tx for low light focusing
  • FEL (flash exposure lock)
  • Test Fire Button on TX – Allows light meter use in remote manual
  • Up to 6 stops of FEC Flash Exposure Compensation in TTL (3 stops set direct on the flash)
  • Remote Flash Zoom Setting from camera (can override).
  • Second Curtain Sync
  • Supersync – up to 1/8000th shutter speed with studio lights (results depends on camera & lights used)
  • LCD Live view triggering
  • Settings saved automatically
  • Transceivers means there are back up transmitter units
  • Supports single contact pin camera & flash triggering, and non Canon camera use like Nikon etc
  • A number of inexpensive compatible flash options
  • Regular AA batteries
  • 300v safe trigger voltage via PC sync cord
    (NOTE – The hotshoe for speedlites is ony 6 – 12 volt safe trigger voltage)



  • No USB Port for firmware updates – Resolved with YN622C II
  • Canon flash control menu is not ideal (but much better than no remote control)
  • ETTL Ratios set remotely are limited to 1:1, 1:2 style ratios instead of FEC via groups (like ST-E3 etc).
  • Turning a group off remotely in manual power control is limited to choosing A:B or A:B:C
  • Mixing ETTL and manual groups is not possible via the remote menu (can be set directly on the flash)

UPDATE – June 2014 – The YN-622C-TX transmitter units have now Resolved most of the limitations above.

  • Locking rings are smaller than ideal  – Resolved with YN622C II
  • Channel Button is easy to bump off channel – Resolved with YN622C II
  • No shutter release feature – Resolved with YN622C-TX
  • Test Fire Button is Difficult to Feel.
  • Low 6 to 12 volt safe trigger voltage for speedlight mounting.
    (300v safe trigger voltage is also available through the PC sync port )







The functions available with the 662C do depend on camera and flash models used, and they are basically split into Type A & B Cameras (and Mark I & II style flashes).

TYPE A Cameras – with Camera Flash Control Menu

Manual – Full Remote Manual Power Control in 3 groups from the camera menu
ETTL – Full ETTL Ratio Control and FEC in 3 groups from the camera menu

1Dx, 1Ds III,  1D IV,  1D III,
6D, 5D III,  5D II,
7D,  70D, 60D,  50D,  40D,
650D T4i,  600D T3i,  550D T2i,  500D T1i,  450D XSi,
1100D T3,  1000D XS.

Powershot G12 – So far we have user confirmation the G12 will work in both ETTL (with FEC from the camera) and Manual Power Level controlled via the camera Flash Control Menu. (ETTL ratios or multiple Manual groups are yet to be confirmed).

If you can confirm functions working with any of the G series cameras please let us know in the comments. Thanks!


TYPE B Cameras – without external flash control menu

Manual – You must set the manual power level directly on the flash
ETTL – Global FEC control is available from the camera, but not ratios. Individual FEC can be set directly on each flash to achieve a ratio though.

1D II,  1D
5D Original,
30D,  20D,  10D,
350D XT,  400D XTi,  300D D-Rebel,





Full Remote Control

Flashes that will support remote flash control through the camera menu.
Manual – Full Remote Manual Power Control in 3 groups from the camera menu.
ETTL – Full ETT Ratio Control and FEC in 3 groups from the camera menu.

Canon – 600EX(RT), 580EX II, 430EX II, 320EX, 270EX II
Phottix – Mitros
YongNuo (with HSS) – YN568EX II, YN568EX, YN500EX
YongNuo (without HSS) YN565EX C, YN565 II C, YN468 II C, YN467 II C, YN465 C
Nissin (with HSS) – Di866 II – may require a factory settings reset to function correctly (and in manual etc) with the 622c
Metz – 58 AF-2, 48 AF-1 (possibly AF-56 and AF-50 yet to be confirmed)

Partial Control

Flashes that do not support remote manual flash control through the camera menu.
Manual – You must set the manual power level directly on the flash.
ETTL – Global FEC control is available from the camera. Ratios may be available, though individual FEC can also be set directly on each flash to achieve a ratio if needed.

Canon – 580EX, 550EX, 430EX
Metz – 54mz4, 54mz3 (requires M5 firmware in the SCA foot)
Nissin (without HSS) – Di622 II
Nissin (with HSS) – Di866
Sigma – 500 DG Super, 530 DG Super
Sunpak – PZ42X – Confirmed ETTL and FEC from the camera – No HSS

YN-568EX and YN-622C



The YN-622C also have a feature called Mixed Mode. This has basically 2 main functions –

Type A Cameras – this allows mixing of ETTL and Manual by allowing you to set ETTL, Manual (or Multi) on any flash, including the on camera flash, by making settings directly on the flashes themselves.

FEC from the camera will still be applied globally to any flashes set to ETTL, and you can also set FEC individually directly on each flash unit.

There is no remote Manual power control for the off camera flashes in this mode, but this is still well designed for wedding / event photographers etc who may require an ETTL flash on camera, as well as some remote manual flashes to help lift the background light in the room or create rim lights etc. The Canon menu system would not normally allow mixed ETTL and manual otherwise.

Type B Cameras – Because Type B cameras do not have a flash control menu for remote control of the flash units, they should always be set to mixed mode so that Manual power levels or FEC can then be set directly on the flashes units themselves. This also sets the camera to HSS by default so that will start as soon as you go over the cameras x-sync shutter speed.

Setting Mixed Mode – Mixed Mode only needs to be set on the 622C mounted on the camera (by holding the Channel button for a few seconds).

Setting a receiver to mixed mode allows the zoom on the flash attached to it to be set manually, separate from the camera menu zoom setting.




Its easy to see where YongNuo got their inspiration for the 662C. The case is almost identical in size to the Pixel King, except for the bulge on the one side of the King which holds that all important USB port which the 622C misses out on.

The other addition as seen below is the extra button on the side which is a dedicated test fire button, something the Kings desperately lacked. Both units have screw lock PC sync ports which are not ideal, but do the job.

Locking rings on both units are smaller than ideal, I already had to use pliers to unlock the ring to remove the trigger from the camera once. And this is more important with the YN-622C as it needs to secure a flash on top of the pass through hotshoe when mounted on camera as well.

YN-622C & Pixel King



Batteries used are standard AA and appear to be lasting well.

Note – due to their higher voltage its often best to use good Alkaline Energizer of Duracell batteries rather than rechargeable NiMH batteries.

The case is well finished and feels quite solid.

YN-622C Base



Because the YN-622C are transceivers they are exactly the same unit for both transmitter and receiver. So they have the same metal foot with TTL contacts on all units, and therefore no threaded mounting hole on the base. This means that if your umbrella swivel etc does not have a cold shoe already, you will need some form of coldshoe with threaded mounting hole in the base to attach a 5/8 stud etc.

The Frio plastic type shoes appear to be gaining popularity, I haven’t tried those but I’ve been very happy with the metal clamping coldshoes shown from flashzebra.com, or the original Stroboframe. There are some dodgy versions out there otherwise unfortunately.

YN-622C - Foot & Shoe

Flash On Camera / Pass Through Hotshoe


The 622C have an ETTL Pass Through style Hotshoe on top which allows a full ETTL flash to be used on top mounted on the camera.

A Flash mounted on top of the 622C on camera is definitely a little more firm fitting than the Pixel Kings, but still not as neat as the Phottix Strato II for example which have pretty much set the standard for a neat fit so far.

This is important because a flash on camera with the head constantly tilted and swiveled puts a lot of stress on the trigger shoe and foot, and any movement there can quickly compound, eventually causing the TTL contacts to loose communication and become unreliable.

My personal thoughts on pass through hotshoes are (unless exceptionally well made) that they are never going to be an ideal solution for constant serious flash on camera use. But this is a really important feature for many wedding and event photographers, and given the current lack of other options (other than the high priced 600EX-RT) I think a lot of people will be giving the 622C a try.


Flash On Camera Function


There are basically 2 options here –

One option is the Mixed Mode mentioned above, where the flash on camera can be set to ETTL or Manual independently of the off camera flashes.

So for example the flash on camera could be set to ETTL, and the off camera flashes could then be used in manual to help lift the ambient light in a room. You loose remote power control of the Manual set flashes, but at least this allows mixed ETTL and Manual.

The other option is the flash on camera is simply treated as group A from the camera’s Flash Control Menu. So all flashes on and off camera can either be in ETTL or Manual, and all remotely controlled from the camera menu.

The flash on camera zoom setting is intentionally NOT controlled by the camera flash control menu so that it can be set separately to the off camera units, or set to auto to follow the lense like a regular flash on camera. Again this is well thought out for on and off camera flash use (unlike the Kings zoom function which can be hard to tame).


Flash Remote Control


The flash remote control capability of the YN-622C is determined, and to some degree limited, by the Canon flash control menu. Having been spoiled with the Phottix Odin and PocketWizard AC3 I can’t say I’m a fan of the Canon menu, but it is often better than the flash interface itself, and certainly much better than no remote control of flashes at all.

YN-568EX YN-622C Flash Control Menu


To start controlling more than one group (on or off camera) you first go to the Wireless Function and select Enable (the flash on camera will always be treated as group A) –

YN-622C Wireless Function


Manual – You can select up to 3 groups and simply adjust the manual power level of each separately in 1/3rd stops (or the graduations as set in your camera options). Three groups on would be set to A:B:C. The other options are A:B for 2 groups, or ALL to fire all groups at the same setting. One small catch here is that you can’t simply turn off say group B for example from the camera. You would need to switch the flash off itself, or possibly just wind the power right down on the camera.

YN-622C Manual Firing Group


ETTL Ratio – With the Canon system you really only have a ratio available between 2 groups at most (A & B). The third group C can only be a background light, if you aim C at the subject it can blow out the exposure. The group C is therefore adjusted with separate FEC.

The A & B ratio is adjusted in the old system of 1:1, 1:2, 1:4 etc. That’s pretty outdated and a bit counter intuitive compared to the ST-E3, Phottix Odins, and PocketWizard AC3 which allow you to simply adjust FEC up and down on each flash. But its certainly better than no controllable ratio like the Kings. You can actually set FEC for each flash directly on the flash itself though.

YN-622C ETTL Firing Group


In Mixed Mode you could also create a 3 way ratio in ETTL, by setting FEC individually on the flash units themselves to first create the ratio, and then adjusting global FEC up and down from the camera as needed.


FEC – Flash Exposure Compensation


Flash Exposure Compensation is adjustable from the camera with Type A or B cameras. But FEC can also be set on the individual flash units themselves, and that will add or subtract from the camera setting. So you can get up to 6 stops of exposure compensation which can be a big help.


High Speed Sync (HSS)


FP HSS works when a compatible HSS enabled flash is attached to the 622C hotshoe on or off camera.

Most Canon EX flashes allow HSS, and YongNuo have also just released their first, and cheapest HSS enabled flash available so far, in the YN-568EX. Edit now also the YN-568EX II, and the YN-500EX.

HSS looses a couple of stops of power, but its main purpose is for fill flash while allowing higher shutter speeds in bright ambient light, so that larger apertures can be used to blur out the background and create a nice bokeh.

ND filters can acheive a similar result with a stop or so more power, but HSS is much faster and easier to change  in a fast paced environment than messing with ND filters. Good convenient variable ND filters like the Singh Ray are also not that cheap either.

Ganging 2 speedlights together often helps to retain some usable power in HSS and reduce stress on the speedlights.

HSS is not for everyone but many wedding, event, and portrait photographers would hate to be without it now, on or off camera. The freedom of selecting any shutter speed is fantastic, and the 622C certainly helps makes it more affordable off camera now too.


Second Curtain Sync


Second Curtain Sync works with the off camera flashes, but not with the wireless menu function enabled. So you no longer have remote control of more than one group. But that is still much better than no second curtain sync at all off camera (like Canons RF system).




The FEL button works when using ETTL. I find this really important for off camera ETTL as it acts like a spot meter and really lets you make the ETTL exposure decision yourself by choosing a tone in the image to meter. For people I normally  just meter on the face / skin while focusing on the eyes, and its very rare for the ETTL exposure to go amiss this way even in difficult conditions.


Test Fire Button  / Light Meter Use


The Test Fire Button on the 622C, like on the Pixel Kings, has a small delay, but that’s not really any practical issue. The important thing is the test button fires the flash at the correct power setting so a light meter can be used to take readings.

Another separate 622C unit held in hand (and away from the camera) can also be used to test fire all the flashes at the correct power level, even when using remote manual power settings from the camera.

Also when using remote manual power levels there is no pre flash, so you can fire the camera shutter as well to take a reading (possibly with a remote shutter release as well).

You can actually select which groups you would like to test fire at once, by scrolling through the groups while holding the test fire button. I don’t know how practical that would really be for quick light meter use though. If a light is really difficult to reach to turn off etc then it could possibly be easier switching it off like that from the Tx to take a reading .


Focus Assist Light


This is a really welcome feature, something I’m amazed the industry standard setting PocketWizard, and now even Canon has overlooked with the new ST-E3.

The AF light itself is the same as used in the YN-565EX flash unit. Its reasonably basic for centre focus point use only, but it is a pretty bright and sharp laser which projects a grid contrast pattern within a small circle, which is easily big enough to cover the centre focus point. I found it locks on focus just fine even with a 50mm F1.8 lense which has a lot of hunting for focus in low light otherwise.

You can see an example image here from the YN565ex from Speedlightes.net –

YN-622C for Focus Assist

I’ve been harassing manufacturers for a long time now to make a stand alone AF light to mount radio triggers on top. Ironically a single 622C unit can also be used just for this purpose. I tried a number of manual triggers on top and they all appear to work fine. There may be a very small amount of delay added but I think this is hardly enough to see a change in sync speed (or more shutter curtain in an image).

Even without using flash the 622C can be handy sometimes on the camera hot shoe just for the AF assist alone, just shooting high iso in low light.


Forward /Backward Compatibility


The YN-622C are not currently directly compatible with any other YongNuo trigger, and no other YN triggers have been cross compatible in the past either, but YongNuo have a new engineer in charge of trigger development who has indicated that will soon change.

In the mean time though the 662C will actually work with most other manual triggers at the same time by simply mounting the other transmitter on top of the 622C hotshoe. So you can still combine your current YN triggers or most other manual ones like the Strato II shown above, or RF-602 below. So don’t be tossing those old triggers just yet!

YN-622C & RF-602



Supersync (often know as Hypersync, which is PocketWizard’s trademark term) is a method of achieving higher sync speeds than your cameras x-sync speed with manual studio lights and speedlights. Sync speeds over the cameras x-sync are working well with manual speedlights, the timing is correct for a clean frame at any shutter speed up to 1/8000th (flash must be set at full power, and this was tested using a 1.6 crop frame camera). This is basically the standard timing so results should be similar to that of the Pixel Kings and Phottix Odin etc which also allow this feature.

Supersync with the 622C only works for lights attached to the receiver via a PC sync cord, which is a little bit of a hassle because YN do not supply a sync cord. But also triggers like the Kings and Odins conveniently allow this straight from the hotshoe with manual-only speedlights.

Note – Regular FP HSS with speedlites still works with flash directly mounted to the 622C hotshoe.

There is no adjustment for Supersync timing though (like PocketWizards) so different monolights and camera bodies will achieve different results. You will have to try with your gear and accept what you get there. This is often best with inexpensive monolights that have a long flash duration. The main advantage of Supersync is for freezing action with a high shutter speed in bright ambient light (daylight etc), which is quite difficult to achieve otherwise.


Low Battery Level Indicator


I don’t think it is mentioned in the manual, but if the battery level is low, when you enter the camera menu or half-press the shutter, the status LED will blink RED-GREEN quickly.


Factory Reset


Hold down the [CH SET] and [GP SET] buttons at the same time until state indicators blink 3 times in red – green alternately then change to keep lighting (red), release all buttons and the factory reset is complete.


No Shutter Release


This is not uncommon with TTL triggers just due to they way they operate. The Kings or Odins do not have a shutter release function either. You can always use another trigger or wireless shutter release at the same time as the though.



2 Shooters (or 2 Cameras) – Using the Same Remote Flashes


If 2 cameras with flashes mounted on top, are set up to fire the same set of remote off camera slave flashes, there can be a problem. As they will set off each others on camera flash each time either camera takes a shot.

A work around has been found for this by simply setting the on camera YN-622C to Group C, and the off camera YN-622C to Group B.

The cameras are then both set to fire Group A:B (in ETTL or Manual) via the cameras menu .

So when one camera takes a shot, the on top flash is treated as group A (as an on top flash always is), and the remote flash is Group B.

The other cameras on top flash retains its Group C setting though, and because Group C is not enabled in the A:B firing Group set on the camera, that will not fire the other cameras Group C flash.


Of course the best method is to have a separate slave flash for each shooter (mounted on a dual flash Mulit Boom etc), and set both cameras YN-622C’s to a different Channel.


Compared To


The 622C’s remote control ability is fantastic for the price, but they really don’t compare to the Phottix Odin, PocketWizard AC3 Zone Controller, (or even Canon ST-E3) when it comes to speed and ease of use through the user interface. I realise these are not in the same price range but people are often quick to look for the cheapest trigger and overlook just how much difference a good system can make. Messing with lighting can be one of the most disruptive things sometimes so it also where the biggest gains can be made as well. Once you’ve been spoiled with a good system it can be hard to go back.

The 622C are limited by Canons flash control menu, where as the Odins, PW AC3, and ST-E3 etc give you full access to the 3 groups all straight in front of you. Any one group can then be switched on or off, switched from manual to ETTL, or adjusted in FEC instead of restrictive ratios.

Phottix Odin TTL Trigger TCU

With the Canon flash menu you can’t even just simply turn a group off in manual, you can only select A:B or A:B:C etc. And you can’t mix ETTL and manual without loss of remote manual control.

So the Odins etc are more user friendly and fast and simple to use, the catch is they don’t allow a flash on camera like the 622C, and the Canon 600EX-RT is considerably more expensive again at this stage. That’s the tough decision people who need serious flash on camera use have been dealing with, and the 622C are going to make the decision even harder.


Any Reason to Still Get a Manual Trigger now?


I’ve been asked the question a number of times already, is there any reason not to get these instead of a good manual trigger like the (similarly priced) Strato II ? Again this can be another hard decision. The manual trigger is not really going anywhere soon, you only have to look at the latest PocketWizard Plus III to see that a good simple solid reliable manual trigger is still very desirable even if you do use them mainly with speedlights.

Manual triggers don’t send a lot of information back and forth like TTL triggers constantly do, just a quick simple fire signal. So they can be faster with sync speeds, over greater range, and using less battery power. Most can also be used as a shutter release.

But simple light meter use is often the area basic manual triggers have held the advantage, as they have no pre-flash comunications to confuse the light meter like TTL triggers often do, even in remote manual. Fortunately the 622C do not have this pre flash in remote manual either, so you can generally take a reading by firing the camera shutter, or using the test fire button on any 622C unit (even one held in hand).

The Strato II otherwise are a nicely refined design basically at the top of their class, where as the 622C are currently the cheapest in their class, a first new model, and so not as refined in physical design. The Strato have a much more solid fitting pass through hotshoe and easy to use locking rings, switches, group and channel selection. The grouping system is much more suitable for quickly taking light meter readings with different groups switched on or off quickly. And they come with all the quality cords you could need including shutter release, where the 622C don’t provide any cords.

Manual triggers like the Strato II are not going to go out of date with future compatibility issues, so they are more of an investment than the 622C which are more about maximum bang for your buck now. It really comes down to whether the remote capabilities, TTL, and possibly HSS of the 622C are what you are looking for or not, and if you have the compatible gear to make full use of them.


What’s Included


  •  YN-622C transceiver (or 2)
  • 28 page User Manual & Quick Start Guide sheet

No cords or anything else are included.

In comparison the Kings come with a number of cords, batteries, stands, and a very nice padded case (which I love and still use for everything else too). But I can’t fault YN for this as most people are after the lower price point and the extras are not so important.




  • System type: Digital FSK 2.4GHz wireless transceiver
  • Distance: 100M
  • Channel: 7
  • Flash mode: E-TTL(II), Manual flash, Multi flash
  • Sync mode: 1st curtain, 2nd curtain, Hi-speed sync
  • Groups: 3Groups (A/B/C)
  • Sync speed: 1/8000s*
  • Input: Hot-shoe(TTL,main contact)
  • Output: Hoe shoe, PC port
  • Applicable battery: AAX2 (support 1.2 V rechargeable battery)
  • Stand-by time: 60h
  • Dimensions: 89.5×53×39mm
  • Weight:78g




POTN Canon forum –

User Manual Online –




Pricing is from around $80 a pair –

YN622C II – Canon – Amazon, YongNuo Amazon, UK, Ebay, YongNuo Ebay, Adorama, B&H Photo
YN622N II – Nikon – AmazonYongNuo Amazon, UK, Ebay, YongNuo Ebay, Adorama, B&H Photo

YN-622C – Canon – Amazon, YongNuo AmazonUK, Ebay, YongNuo Ebay, B&H Photo
YN-622N – Nikon – Amazon, YongNuo AmazonUK, Ebay, YongNuo Ebay, B&H Photo



PC sync cord to connect Studio Lights – Amazon, UK, Ebay


YongNuo – Website


  1. Malcolm Alexander 8 years ago

    I have 3 Canon speedlites – 2 x 580 EXii and 1 x 430 EX ii . When using a pair of Youngnuo 622C tranceivers, one is on the camera, one is on a 580 EXii, does the 580 EXii trigger the second EX 580 II and third speedlite (430 EXii ) as a slaves, or do I really need 3 or more 622C units ??


    • Author
      The Havoc 8 years ago

      Hi Malcolm,

      No the Canon Optic Wireless system is disabled so you would need a 622C unit for each flash unit.

      At this price though that makes a lot more sense than dealing with the line of sight issues introduced with the Canon Optic Wireless.

  2. Author
    Flash Havoc 8 years ago

    Hi There,

    That’s a good question!

    EDIT – Yes! So far we have user confirmation the G12 will work in both ETTL (with FEC from the camera) and Manual Power Level controlled via the camera Flash Control Menu.

    (ETTL Ratios or multible Manual groups are yet to be confirmed)

  3. G12er 8 years ago

    Can the G12 and 622c work using just 1 YN568ex on ETTL? …not planning on using more than 1 external flash… just want to use it wirelessly and control it using the cam’s flash menu

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 8 years ago

      Hi There,

      Yes! So far we have user confirmation the G12 will work in both ETTL and Manual controlled via the camera Flash Control Menu.

  4. Misa 8 years ago

    Sorry, I have posted this reply in flickr before seeing this blog post. I will paste it here if you do not mind :

    thanks for the excellent review !

    Please correct me if I am wrong : I can use the 622C + 568EX HSS flashes (for canon) with the Fuji X100, but everything will be manual. But is it the best solution, knowing that I am also using Canon equipment ?

    I am planning to purchase the YN products online at yongnuostore.com. Are they reliable ?

    All the best !

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 8 years ago

      Hi There,

      Thanks for that. Yes you should be able to use the 622c with your Fuji X100 as a basic manual trigger. Of course HSS with the 568ex would not work in that case either.

      yongnuostore.com is not the official YongNuo store, and they have made no attempt to make that clear (obviously their intention is the opposite), but so far most people appear to be quite happy with their service. The offical YongNuo store is only on ebay – http://stores.ebay.com/hkyongnuophotoequipment

      Regarding the best solution, I don’t think there is any other option that will give you more TTL or remote manual/HSS type functions with the X100. There is one emerging hope, the Aokatec AK-TTL thats working for Olympus and Pentax etc and should work with any camera that has an optic wireless flash system, but the the X100 does not have that unfortunately as far as I can see.

      There are more advanced solutions for the Canon system (at higher prices), please see my comments in the review under “Comapred To”. Most could work with the Fuji as well if needed, but that may mean separate (but compatible) manual transmitter and receiver eg Phottix Odin and Phottix Strato II.

      If you’re happy with the function of the 622c though with the Canon gear, working as a manual trigger on the Fuji is pretty much the best you can expect. As mentioned if it was the Olympus for example the AK-TTL could allow more TTL etc funtions on both that and the Canon.

  5. the flasher 8 years ago

    i just got my 622’s in the post here is some additional compatibility:

    metz 53MZ3 with canon SCA adaptor 3102 M3 flash does not fire and fires at full power when yn is switched on and off.

    Same Flash With SCA M4 firmware it takes about 10-20 seconds for the flash to recognise ETTL signal and then it works ok, if you take a photo before ETTL signalling is established the flash will fire at full power but subsequent exposures will be OK. Turning attached YN622 off and on causes the flash to fire either at full power or at the power level of the previous exposure. HSS, FEL and FEC seems to work as expected.

    There is M5 firmware available for the SCA adaptor but I will need to send the adaptors in for the upgrade which won’t be for a while.

    Sigma 500 DG Super: takes about 10sec to establish ETTL control. FEC and FEL and HSS seems to work OK. Although the Sigma over exposed with Pixel Kings it seems to work much better with yn 622’s.

    550EX ratio control: this works quite nicely. Set both flashes to TTL, set one 622 to channel A, set the other 622 to channel B. On my 5dMK2 i go into the camera’s flash menu > wireless options> ratio A:B > set ratio to desired level (the 622 TX changes its channel light to B to indicate its in A:B ratio mode)

    hope this info helps



    • Author
      Flash Havoc 8 years ago

      That’s fantastic thanks Richard!

      So there is ratio control with MkI style flashes as well.

      Can you also confirm this ratio works with the Sigma 500DG Super as well for example (using a 550ex as the other slave if you only have one Sigma).

      Thanks again.

      • the flasher 7 years ago

        Hi just confirming compatibility with my Metz 54mz3….with M5 firmware in the SCA foot.

        I only just recievd the SCa foot back from the Metz service center in the UK. It works perfectly fuctionality is same as 550EX.

        To summarise compatibilty with SCA firmwares:

        M3 – does not work
        M4 – Works more or less not satisfactory
        M5 – Perfect, flash now works like a 550ex would.



        • Author
          Flash Havoc 7 years ago

          Hi Richard, Fantastic thanks for following up on this.

  6. Joe Hogan 8 years ago

    Thanks so much for the review; one of the most straight-forward and clear cut that I have read of just about anything! I only wish more reviews were like this. My question relates to the YN622Cs and Westcott Apollo softboxes. I have two Yongnuo 568s and three YN622Cs on their way here now. As the flash mount is inside the Westcott soft boxes and they are aluminium-paper lined, I was wondering if there could be any interference to the wireless signal in ETTL or manual off the camera control (Canon 7D).

    Thanks for your help and once again for the excellent and informative review.

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 8 years ago

      Hi Joe,

      Thanks for that, yes remote triggers are a lifesaver with the Apollo!, especially now they have grids that get in the way too. I haven’t tested the maximum range inside those but at normal working distances I haven’t noticed any change in performance or issues, so you should be fine there.

  7. Joe Hogan 8 years ago

    Thanks very much. I felt they would be OK with the Westcotts. One good thing also is that as the 568EX has a very simple full turnaround head I plan on mounting the flash body facing outwards (and per se the 622C) which should help.

    One more thing… I will be using Eneloop batteries; I presume these things don’t eat power.

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 8 years ago

      No problem, the Eneloop won’t effect the power of the flash unit at all. Its only the flash recycle time that goes down a little because of the lower 2000mah (568ex is pretty fast recycle anyway) and the number of pops can be up to around 25% less than some good 2700mah Maha Powerex or similar.

      The best thing is to have some sets of both Eneloops and Powerex. Charging the Powerex up the night before you know they are going to get a good workout you get more speed and pops out of them than the Eneloops would. Eneloops are brilliant too though to always have some on hand charged and ready.

  8. Rob Young 8 years ago


    I have been using the Strobist cheap manual method for a few years now but after reading your blog post in the Flickr group and then this article I decided to try the 622cs. They are fantastic. Unpacked them, put the batteries in, checked they were on the same channel, put one on the camera, one under the 580EXII and took a perfect picture first try. Then tried a shoot thru umbrella and a Westcott Apollo. Perfect results. They sync on the 5D3 at 1/200 with no banding. These things are magic. Just ordered some more and a couple of Yongnuo flashes to work with them. I now have a number of old SB-28s and cybercyncs that I mightn’t need anymore.
    Thanks very much for your review and in depth information, this has changed the way I take portraits.

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 8 years ago

      Hi Rob,

      Thanks for the feedback its much appreciatied. Yes they are really quite seamless now, I’ve followed the progerss of the TTL triggers since the first ones and it still amazes me what they can do now and how effortless it seems. They have really stepped up, and it can ony get better from here.

      Thanks again.

  9. Paul 8 years ago

    amazing review, ordered a set on sunday to have just received it today! however one big problem.
    it doesnt work with my nissin di866 ii….
    it will only work in manual mode (flash) and nothing else (especially eTTL) will work, whatever I try. can you please help me?
    I’ve done the resets on the triggers, reset the settings on the nissin but nothing will work 🙁

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 8 years ago

      Hi Paul,

      You may need to also reset the flash through the camera as that has worked for others –

      – Reset to factory settings in the YN-622C
      – Also, set the flash to the camera and reset the user settings for the flash from the camera menu (without YN-622C)
      – And to do a factory reset to flash.

      (from POTN)

      Also Quote ” As for the camera settings, I just went into the external flash menu and then, on my 60D, press the info button, which resets all external flash settings.”

      If that still doesn’t work I would try resetting the camera setting completely. Also the firmware version on the flash may be another possibility so you may want to check that is updated too.

      Let us know is you make any progress, thanks.

  10. Jason 7 years ago

    Excellent write up! I have 4 yn622c’s, love em. They work fine with my Metz af 50 and canon 430exII.
    I put flash control into “my menus” on my 7d to help me get to my flash control menu more efficiently. My only gripe is having to dive into menus to adjust flash output. At this price, I’m more than happy with performance. One note: if your shooting in demanding situations like weddings, you may wanna buy a system with dedicated controls like ST-E3/600rt’s or Odins.

  11. Tatski 7 years ago

    I’ve used pocket wizards tt5 and Fried my 580s in hss. Is there an issue regarding hss on the yn 622c?

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 7 years ago

      Hi Tatski,

      That’s a slightly controversial issue, from all I have heard I don’t personally believe that is exclusively a PW problem, but having said that, at this stage I have not seen or heard of any case of the same issue with the YN-622c.

      • tatski 7 years ago

        My new yn622c is just amazing! I did several test shots and just works flawlessly except yesterday when i did some family portraits. All of the shots were over exposed and i just panicked. So i resort using natural instead. Upon arriving home, it worked fine for a while just to find out the batteries were weak. After putting on freshly charged batteries, they worked flawlessly again. I think it is important to always use fresh or fully charged batteries to avoid over exposing photos on these triggers.

        • Author
          Flash Havoc 7 years ago

          Thanks for that, yes like many TTL triggers the YN-622C are sensitive to battery voltage, that is why we use good alkaline when possible (Energizer/Duracell) and not rechargeable. That is because alkaline have a considerably higher voltage to start with, the rechargeable NiMH are already close to the YN-622 cut off voltage when fully charged.

          That’s not to say you can’t use NiMH at all, as long as you are aware of the issue, you know when to drop a set of fresh alkaline in before a critical shoot. If you’re only using the triggers now and then a set of alkaline tend to last a long time anyway, save the rechargeable battery management for the flash batteries.

  12. nae 7 years ago

    Hi! I was just wondering if someone could please tell me if I can use just 1 of the YN-622C on a 5Diii to remotely trigger a speedlite 600ex-rt, or if I need to get another to attach to the speedlite?

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 7 years ago

      Hi there,

      Sorry no you would need a second YN-622C on the remote 600EX-RT.

      Considering you have the 5D III and 600EX-RT with receivers built in, the ST-E3-RT would offer more convenience and functions. The only disadvantage would be lack of second curtain sync, and the the AF focus assist light. Thanks.

      • nae 7 years ago

        Thanks so much!

  13. Pablo 7 years ago

    Thanx for the review, it is excellent.

    Any data about the compatiblility with the Metz 58 AF-1?

    Seems like it works the 58 AF-2.

    I was going to get the odin system when in the last minute i found it is only compatible with canon original flashes, such a pity.

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 7 years ago

      Hi Pablo,

      Sorry no I haven’t had any reports on the 58 AF-1 either way, so I’m really not sure about that model. If you do get to try that with the YN-622C please let us know how it goes.

      Regarding the Phottix Odin, they will also have their own Phottix Mitros flash soon too. They do also work with the Nissin flashes though. In some way I think its better that they just work 100% reliable with a few flashes, than having mixed results with lots of third party flashes.

      • Pablo 7 years ago

        After almost a month, my 622c finally arrived from China. I just ordered some more today. I am amazed. So flexible. I see them as manual trigger with the capability of being able to adjust flash power from the camera menu (and also from the flash). I did a not very thorough test with a 58 AF-1 Metz and seemed to have full compatiblility. I´ll be probably selling my Odins because of lack of AF assist light and manual control flexibility when measuring light. If you program your camera to have the external flash control in your favorites and memorize the combination of buttons to access the intensities, the camera menu is not so bad.

        • Author
          Flash Havoc 7 years ago

          Thanks Pablo, keep us posted on how the 58 AF-1 goes.

          Regarding the Odin, I think the YN-622C are incredible for what they are, but the Odin are still more reliable in my experience, very rarely if ever do they loose communication. With the 622C and Kings etc its not uncommon they need a reset every now and then. Its not a big deal but the Odin are still in a different class. I’m sure they will update the Tx at some point, as they are well aware of the limitations you mentioned. I’d give the YN some time to see it they are really up to the level you’re hoping for.

  14. Brent 7 years ago

    Awesome review -1) I had not seen the info about their older manual flashes, nor thought of that idea. 2) Great info about the batteries – I will not use rechargeables in those now.
    Good job all around on the review. I now own four of them and like them so far.

  15. Johnny 7 years ago

    Does the pass-thru E-TTL still enable the 580EX focus light to work?
    Basically I am wondering if the YN-622C plus the 580EX will help the 5D2 focus better in low light situations.

    Also, do you know if the PC-SYNC port is turned off when you turn off the YN-622C? I am considering using the YN-622C with a PC-SYNC cable to trigger manual flashes that are on RF-602 triggers. It would be great if the PC-SYNC on the YN-622C turns off with the off switch that way I won’t have to yank the cable. Can you confirm?

    Thanks for an awesome review!

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 7 years ago

      Hi Johnny,

      I just checked quickly and the focus assist light is not coming on for the flash on-camera (mounted on the YN-622C pass through hotshoe). I can’t find a setting just now that will allow it to come on, but there could possibly be one. The YN-622C AF light is pretty good though provided it lines up, and you’re using centre focus point only.

      I tried the RF-602 attached to the YN-622C PC sync port and that works, and turning the YN-622C off disables the PC sync port, but it also stops the flash on top of the pass through hotshoe from firing as well. So if you’re hoping to keep using the flash on camera you may be better off putting a miniphone plug in the PC sync cord and pull that out a little when needed. Thanks.

      • Johnny 7 years ago

        Thank you for testing for me. You confirmed it does what I want except i was hoping the pass-thru was always working. Sometimes I don’t want the off-camera flash. Right now, I’ve been pulling out the PC-sync cable with the RF-602 hanging, but it is clumsy.

        Thanks again.

  16. Brian Powell 7 years ago

    Hey, thanks for the comprehensive review.. Best I’ve come across so far!

    Still have one lagging important question:
    Can I trigger 2nd curtain sync WITHOUT a flash riding the top of the trigger that sits on the camera? I’ve read mixed answers for this online.
    And that rear sync would be radio/manual, right?

    Please write back to contact@brianpowell.info if you can answer this 🙂

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 7 years ago

      Hi Brian,

      I will have to test this later to be sure, but I’m not aware of second curtain sync having anything to do with a flash riding on top of the pass through hotshoe. The 622C don’t generally need any help from a flash on top. The coming Nikon version will take commands from the flash on top, but I’d say that’s because the camera menu/control is limited compared to Canon. Thanks.

  17. Craig 7 years ago

    I have noticed that my ettl shots are under exposed by about 1.5 stops. I have done some controlled testing with the flash on camera and then comparing the same shot with OCF right beside the camera.Is this common or do you think I may be doing something wrong? I’m using a 6D with a single 430exII.
    Thanks for a well written review.

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 7 years ago

      Hi Craig,

      Sorry no I haven’t heard of that issue before. 1.5 stops is quite a lot. It doesn’t sound like a metering issue or running out of power if you’re doing identical side by side comparisons. Overexposing or blowing out is often caused by poor contact between the trigger and camera, but not really underexposing so much. You could try cleaning the contacts on camera and triggers, use fresh Energizer or Duracell Alkaline batteries in the triggers, and do a quick factory reset on all of them. Also check carefully they are fully seated all the way into the hotshoes. Could you possibly have the receiver on group B for example and set to a minus FEC? (compared to the flash on camera with no FEC). Thanks.

      • Craig 7 years ago

        I’m sorry if this is already posted but what do you recommend cleaning the contacts with?

        • Author
          Flash Havoc 7 years ago

          Hi Craig,

          I actually just use the Eclipse fluid and Pec-Pad I have for cleaning the camera sensor. But Isopropyl alcohol is a common contact cleaner – http://isopropylalcohol.com.au/ Thanks.

  18. stephen 7 years ago

    hi Im using the following:

    Camera: EOS 600D
    Flash: 320 EX

    I bough a set last month from yongnoustore.com and used them on a wedding event. I did test the trigger set a day or two before the big day then I started having issue particularly with HSS, I kept getting “half frames” beyond 1/250 (dark bars on the picture) and overly exposed shots (like the flash was literally set to its maximum lighting intensity). I recalled reading part of this forum (before purchasing the YN-622C) where the author of this review also had had a tech issue with the YN-622C and that it was promptly resolved by a factory reset on the YN-622C. In my case IT DIDN’T – even after many more fac.reset and even when I factory reset my camera not to mention that I also followed tru the trouble shooting steps on their manual i.e. adjust the FEC etc.. I emailed yongnou CS multiple times but they could only ask me for a video which added to my frustration.

    so I decided to just use the camera’s native Optical Trigger to compare the exposure of the TTL without the trigger with the ones that were shot with the YN-622C (where obviously i got the correct exposure with the former). Then when I placed back the trigger, (to my gratefulness) it started to work fine again.

    Now came the wedding day I had my assistance hold the flash about 3m away from me while I shoot and everything seems to work well. until I decided to put on the flash on top of my camera as I have more control on bounced lights. when I decided to go back to off-the-camera-flash mode
    that’s when everything turned haywire again. majority of my shots became overexposed so I decided to manually set everything (asked my assistance to move far back and adjusted my F/ numbers ) to compensate.

    At the end of the day I decided to return the item back to China I thought it was cheaply affordable at less than 100.00 USD but it wasnt worth all the trouble. fortunately I was able to darken the overly exposed shots tru Photoshop but that was a labourious task to take on a 100+ photos.

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 7 years ago

      Hi Stephen,

      Thanks for sharing that, the overexposure is a classic sign of poor contact between the camera/trigger/flash contacts. They could just be dirty or not properly seated, and that’s why it comes good sometimes. Having said that is could also be a faulty unit with a dry solder or similar to the foot or hostshoe contacts. Too late now as you have returned them, but for anyone else try cleaning all the contacts, and be very careful to check everything is pushed into the shoes properly and all the way. Its so easy to miss that.

      I personally wouldn’t recommend the 662 for wedding use unless you’re confident to switch to a plan B quickly as soon as you need to. Many people have been using manual triggers etc for a long time previously anyway, and are happy to switch back if there was an issue. So the 622 are a bargain for all the use they do get out of them. But for a more safe and reliable alternative its better to spend the extra on the Phottix Odin – http://flashhavoc.com/phottix-odin-ttl-trigger-review/ Thanks again.

  19. Matthew 7 years ago


    I’m loving these triggers except that I’m having trouble with off camera flash in Manual mode. For example, if I have the flash set to 1/16th power, the second I fire a shot, my 580EXII reverts back to E-TTL.

    Any idea how I can prevent this? I’ve got both triggers set to Group A Channel 1.


    • Author
      Flash Havoc 7 years ago

      Hi Mathew,

      The problem does actually ring a bell, I think I have heard that once before. Unfortunately I’m not sure of the solution there.

      [ EDIT – do you mean you are setting the power level on the flash directly? If that’s the case, yes it will keep reverting back to TTL every time the receiver gets a signal from the camera, unless you change the settings to manual through the camera flash control menu. If you want to set power levels on the flash directly you need to put the receiver into mixed mode. ]

      If making setting directly on the flash is not the issue, I would do a factory reset on all the triggers first and see of that helps. Also the usual, make sure the batteries are fresh Alkaline Duracell or Energizer, and all the contacts are clean, and flashes and triggers a carefully pushed all they way into the hotshoes and secured, its surprisingly easy to miss something as simple as that. Thanks.

      • Matthew 7 years ago

        Thanks so much, once I set manual in the External Flash camera menu on my 5DII it worked fine for manual mode! Now if I can just find my misplaced instruction manual, perhaps I can figure out how to keep my flash on hotshoe on top of trigger in ETTL while having 2 external flashes in manual.

        • Author
          Flash Havoc 7 years ago

          Hi Mathew,

          Ok great, to mix ETTL and manual though you will need to set the remote flashes directly (ie no remote control). You need to set mixed mode on the transmitter (and then set the power level directly on the flash). That is provided you’re using a type A camera (see under Mixed Mode heading in the review).

          The manual can be downloaded here – http://www.yongnuoebay.com/sm/yn622c.pdf

  20. Arthur Morris 7 years ago


    I have a canon 7D and a 600EX-RT flash and my main concern is to be able to use HSS to the maximum 1/8000. I tried attaching the 600EX-RT on my 7D and was able to do HSS up to 1/8000th.

    But my problem is i need a Radio trigger to use my flash because i plan to use it of camera and at the same time, i need use HSS.

    Can i be able to get HSS on the YN622 using 1/8000th using my 7D and 600EX-RT on radio wireless just like the way i am able to use 1/8000th when i mount the flash on my canon 7D body ?

    or do i need to buy special cable or pc sync cord ?


    • Author
      Flash Havoc 7 years ago

      Hi Arthur,

      Yes that is correct, you can get full HSS to 1/8000th off camera if using a YN-622C as transmitter on the camera, and another YN-622C as receiver on the flash foot.

      You can also use the Canon ST-E3 to do they same thing, though it costs a little more, but that way you do not have the extra receiver on the flash foot, as the 600EX-RT has the Canon radio receiver built in. Thanks.

  21. plevyadophy 7 years ago

    What is the range (max distance) of the AF Assist Lamp?


    • Author
      Flash Havoc 7 years ago

      Hi there,

      I think the maximum AF light range is probably a bit subjective, depending on conditions etc.

      This is the same AF light found in the later YongNuo flashes, and its a type of lazer projecting a bright pattern of short lines in a small circular area.

      Its much brighter than the Canon light, but the main issue is actually having it line up with the center focus point on the camera. That alignment changes the further you are from the camera, but also the further you get away the more chance of the focus point actually going between one of the small lines.

      So its hard to say exactly, it will project further, but lining up can be an issue. It will go 10 meters easy in low light, but for normal use at 5 meters or less the more complex Canon light is still much better.

  22. Bernd 7 years ago

    Hey there. I got the YN622 for Nikon and using Metz Flashes 50 AF-1.

    TTL works good, but i can´t change the power of the flashlights on the camera (D7000).
    When i change the flashlight-control to +2.0 (for example) the picture look same like doing this without changing the flashlight-power.

    any idea´s or knowledge that the metz 50-AF1 doesn´t work with the YN622 ???


    • Author
      Flash Havoc 7 years ago

      Hi Bernd,

      As far as I understand you can’t change the FEC (Flash Exposure Compensation) through the camera. You need to do that using the buttons on the YN-622N.

      When the YN-622N is in transmitting state (half press shutter, status LED is green/orange), just keep pressing the + or – button, and the six LED’s will start blinking in order (A->B->C->C1->C2->C3).

      If you want to adjust FEC of group A, when LED A is on, release the button and FEC of group A will increase/decrease 1/3 stop; when LED C1 is on, release the button and FEC of group A will increase/decrease 1 stop. The same with Group B/C.

      To reset FEC/M output to default value, simply turn 622N off and back on again. Thanks

  23. Omar 7 years ago

    I bought a pair of this triggers and I’m very angry because they doesn’t works. I put new Duracell batteries, checked channels and groups, but nothing. It’s impossible to communicate each other. One of them starts when it wants, totally randomly (remember the NEW AA 1.5V batteries that I’m using).

    Some times one trigger (the same that works unstable) start to blink all the CH-GP and state lights.

    Sounds easy to return (Amazon), but it’s not. I order it to Texas but I’m living in Monterrey, MX.

    Any idea? Thank you

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 7 years ago

      Hi Omar,

      I would try a factory reset on all the triggers. If that doesn’t work it sound like they may have to go back. That’s one of the pitfalls of very inexpensive gear. Most people don’t have issues, but its important to consider the return options in case you do. Thanks

  24. Gary Zin 7 years ago

    Hi Flash Havoc –

    THANK YOU VERY MUCH for your excellent articles on your blog.

    I have been using a group of sync only strobes in a studio environment, successfully for several years. I trigger them with a combination of sync only radio transmitter and receivers, and passive optical slaves. I would like to continue using them.

    I just bought a Canon t3i/600 D, and am very frustrated with the problems I am having firing my sync only strobes with this new camera.

    The TTL pre-flashes prevent me from using my passive optical slave triggers. I cannot find any smart optical slaves that work with Canon’s double flash pre flash TTL system. The only smart optical slaves I’ve found work with single pre flash systems.

    I can fire my sync only radio transmitter on the Canon t3i/600 D hotshoe, but it disables my ability to fire it in Live View mode, and it disables the ability to use 2nd curtain sync.

    Reading your 622c review encourages me to think I may be able to solve these problems with the 622C transceivers.

    I plan to place my sync only radio transmitter in the hot shoe of a 622c mounted on my 600 D camera. And, I plan to use a Manual controlled flash (not a TTL flash) with another 622c receiver.

    The sync only radio transmitter will fire my strobes with sync only radio receivers.

    Using a manual (not TTL) controlled flash on the 622c receiver should eliminate any pre flashes, allowing my passive optical slaves to function correctly, and not fire prematurely by the pre flashes used for TTL adjustments. At this time, I am not interested in using TTL or ETTL features.

    And, as I understand your review, using the 622c transmitter and receivers will allow the 2nd curtain sync feature on my camera – which I would like to use.

    The Canon manual says using “a non-Canon flash will not fire during Live View shooting.” I wish to use the Live View function for my shooting as opposed to using the view finder. When I place my sync only radio transmitter directly on my 600d hotshoe, I need to physically press a button to exit the Live View mode, press the shutter button to fire my transmitter, and then physically press a button again to re-enter the Live View mode for my next shot. I can work around this using Magic Lantern – but I’d obviously would prefer to avoid the problem completely.

    So, before I buy new hardware, I’m trying to find answers to …

    1) does using a sync only radio transmitter in the hot shoe of the 622c mounted on a 600d cause the 600d not to fire when using Live View?

    2) If I buy a Yongnuo flash, will the Canon 600d recognize a Yongnuo flash as being a non Canon flash, and cause it not to fire when using Live View?

    3) Can I set up a flash (Yongnuo or Canon) with both TTL and Manual capabilities to act as a Manual flash only and thereby eliminate any pre flashes that would prematurely trigger my passive optical slaves.

    4) Do you have any recommendation for an inexpensive flash to use in Manual mode with the 622c system – eliminating the need for pre flashes causing my optical slaves to prematurely trigger? As I said, at this time, I don’t wish to use any TTL features.

    5) I don’t need another flash (Canon or Yongnuo) as an additional light in my system. I’m assuming I need it to complete the external flash radio configuration so my 600d will work correctly with external flashes. Correct? Or, can I get by with only one 622c transmitter mounted on the camera and no other 622c receiver with a flash attached in the system? And, another basic question, will using the 622c transmitter and receiver system cause the 600d not to fire in Live View mode?

    THANK YOU again, for sharing your excellent work with us. I would very much appreciate any help you or your readers can give me.

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 7 years ago

      Hi Gary,

      All you need to do is put one YN-622C on the camera hotshoe, and connect another YN-622C receiver to one of your existing strobes via a PC sync cord. Then that will fire your other strobes via the optic slave. You have 2nd curtain sync then as well if needed.

      I’m not that experienced with live view, but as far as I understand it works fine with the YN-622C. Thanks.

  25. Gary Zin 7 years ago

    Thanks, Flash Havoc. I’ll experiment with it and let you know what I find out. If your approach works, it will save me the cost of another strobe. I’m really anxious to see what happens with Live View too.

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 7 years ago

      Hi Gary,

      No worries, Live view should work just like it does when using a Canon flash on the camera hotshoe, because the camera thinks the YN-622C is a Canon flash. I think Live view functions vary a lot between camera models so I haven’t kept up with them all. I think you should be fine though.Thanks.

  26. Gary Zin 7 years ago

    Hi Flash Havoc –

    Instead of triggering a strobe through the pc port on the YN-622C receiver, I’m going to trigger a sync only radio transmitter. That should allow my lighting set up to work just as it does now with my other cameras, before I tried to use a Canon 600d. If it works, it will allow Live View on my 600D (and other Canon cameras), 2nd curtain sync capability, sync only radio receivers as well as passive optical slaves in my set up. Awesome!

    Also, if it works, other photographers may be able to use the pc port to trigger a sync only radio transmitter in addition to TTL strobes. This would allow them to use sync only radio receivers for unadjusted (background) strobes in addition to TTL strobes, along with Live View, and 2nd curtain capability. Wonderful!

    Now, … I need to order the YN-622C transceivers and experiment. I’ll keep you informed.

    Thanks again for your help and suggestions.


    • Author
      Flash Havoc 7 years ago

      Hi Gary,

      That should work, but it will likely add a small delay to your sync speed.

      Most strobes have a 1/4″ sync socket, you just need a PC to 1/4′ sync cord (the most common type) and you can connect the YN-622C straight to one of the strobes. Thanks.

      • Gary Zin 7 years ago

        Hi Flash Havoc –

        If I connect the pc sync port to a strobe, I’ll need an optical slave to trigger the other strobes. If I connect the pc sync port to a sync only radio transmitter, I don’t need an optical slave in the system. I have several sync only radio receivers on my strobes. (In my case, I use some additional optical slaves simply because I have them, and they work OK for me. I could also use additional sync only radio receivers instead.)

        There may be some photographers who wish to use unadjusted (background) strobes in addition to TTL controlled strobes. Those photographers need to use a radio transmitter triggered by the pc sync port along with sync only radio receivers to fire their unadjusted (background) strobes. Optical slaves won’t work in addition to the TTL strobes because of the pre flashes used to adjust the TTL strobes.


        • Author
          Flash Havoc 7 years ago

          Hi Gary,

          Ok no problem, just mount the extra radio transmitter on top of the YN-622C hotshoe on the camera.

          That still adds a small delay, as long as your other triggers are not too slow you should be ok. Thanks.

  27. Mike B 7 years ago

    The one thing that I have noticed on both my Canon t2i (550D) and my Canon 6D is that I can not enable and disable my master flash (Yongnuo YN568EXI)I with the master flash being off camera from the camera’s menus with these yn-622c transceivers. Also with my Master off camera with the transceiver, it will not fire my Nissin Di622 MKii via the Canon optical slave blah blah blah setting. However if I put the master flash on camera, either through the transceiver hotshoe or directly on the camera hotshoe, Then I can enable or disable the master via camera menu and it talks with my Nissin Di622 MKii and fires it no problems. Am I doing something wrong or is this just a problem with the transmitters? I have tried resetting the transceivers to factory settings as well with no luck.

    • Mike B 7 years ago

      I saw a typo it should read (Yongnuo YN568EXII)

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 7 years ago

      Hi Mike,

      The Master function is not meant to be supported, you may just be lucky you got it work in that instance with the Nissin. These are so complex as it is its a huge achievement to have them so well sorted out to the stage they are now, adding the optic wireless system in just adds a lot of unnecessary issues. You just have to use a separate receiver on each flash, at $40 each that’s still a crazy bargain compared to almost anything else. Thanks.

      • Mike B 7 years ago

        Flash Havoc!

        Thank you for the reply. I appreciate the info! I wasn’t sure if I was doing something wrong! HA!

  28. Nick 7 years ago

    Hi – I’ve a 6D, pair of YN568EX and yn – 622c triggers. All seems to work well except I can’t figure out the flash sync speed in AV mode setting. When in Av the camera’s interpretation ignores the presence of the flash (with or without the trigger) and so you get shutter speeds in the several seconds area! In Tv it over-rides to 160 and M to 180. Any thoughts on this please – I assume I’m doing something wrong somewhere!


    • Author
      Flash Havoc 7 years ago

      Hi Nick,

      That’s normal in AV mode, as you mention it happens with or without the triggers. I think you can go into your custom settings though and set something like 1/60th as the minimum if needed though. In low light like that I would be using manual on the camera anyway, and let the flash do the auto (TTL). Using auto with both flash and camera starts to make things difficult.

      In manual you should be able to go over 1/180th. You may have to go into the flash control menu and make sure that is set to HSS. Otherwise the camera will stay below X-sync. Thanks.

  29. Armin 7 years ago

    Hi Flash Havoc,

    thanks for all your great reviews!

    Any plans to release a (short) review of the 622N? Since on Nikon you don’t have the menu options like Canon has, it would be interesting to have a closer look at them as well. At least I’d appreciate it.


    • Author
      Flash Havoc 7 years ago

      Hi Armin,

      Thanks for that, yes I have another person with more experience in Nikon gear testing out the Nikon YN-622N. Will post a review up once they have worked through them. I have another post coming later today regarding the YN-622N that you may find even more interesting though! :-). Thanks.

      • Armin 7 years ago

        Thanks, that sounds great. I tried gathering all informations about the 622N, but your articles/reviews are the best available on the internet.

  30. PeteW 7 years ago

    Just got my YN-622C. Seem to work well.
    One problem I have. If I mount the flash onto the camera via the Yongnuo, in ettl mode the pictures are very overexposed. Using the same setting when the flash is mounted on the remote trigger, it is exposed correctly. Am I doing something wrong? It’s a Canon 480 ex2 if that has any bearing.

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 7 years ago

      Hi Pete,

      The first thing I would try is doing a factory reset on all the triggers, that often removes any unusual anomalies.

      Otherwise if its really blowing out completely (like the flash is firing at full power) that is usually just poor connection between the TTL contacts. In that case try cleaning them with some contact cleaner or Isopropyl alcohol. And make sure the flash is really seated properly in the trigger and camera shoe. Also make sure you have fresh Alkaline Duracell for Energizers in the triggers, and well charged batteries in the flash.

      If its not blowing out completely (and the factory reset doesn’t fix it), I’m not too sure what’s happening there. You don’t have a ratio set in the flash control menu by any chance? Thanks.

      • PeteW 7 years ago

        Thanks. That helped me work out the problem. User error! It was going off at full power. It turns out the flash wasn’t quite seated properly in the trigger. It just needed a final click into place. Now working as expected.

  31. george 7 years ago

    Hello there !
    I have a pair of 622 and two flases with HSS ! So i need to buy another transceiver for the second flash !
    The question i have for you is if i can trigger the second flash (which doesn’t have transceiver) with the flash that has the transceiver on it, at HSS ! I am asking to know if i can avoid buying another transceiver ! I am shooting sports and HSS is very important to me !
    Both flashes i have can be masters and slaves !
    thanks !!!!

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 7 years ago

      Hi George,

      Sorry no you will definitely need another transceiver. Thanks.

      • george 7 years ago

        hm.. okay ! thanks for the reply !!

  32. Ujwal 7 years ago

    I bought one of these as soon as they came out on Ebay Australia and i love them.
    They are better built than my stratto ( original) and i have more confidence mounting a flash on the TTL shoe on top of Y622C. I used to do that with my Stratto….but the hotshoe broke in the middle of a wedding shoot crashing my 430EXII on the ground.
    The Stratto still works but the hotshoe on top is not usable anymore.

    My only problem with Y622C is that it syncs at 1/200 only ( while using the PC sync to my Qflash) while the stratto can synch perfectly at 1/250 and its even usable at 1/320 on 5dMkII

    All in all, i think they are great triggers… and worthy investment if one already have a lot of 580EX, 580ExII, 430Ex flashes.

  33. Gary Zin 7 years ago

    Hi Flash Havoc — Here is a follow up on my YN622c transceivers with my canon 600D. It works!

    (I’ve described my problems in comment posts on this blog on July 4 and 5, 2013.)

    I placed one YN 622c on my canon 600d. The camera thinks it is a canon flash unit and allows the options and capabilities for external flashes. I placed my sync only radio transmitter in the hot shoe of the YN 622c on the camera and it works perfectly. I do not need a second YN 622c to act as a receiver to trigger my sync only radio transmitter.

    I want to use manual lenses on my camera. The YN 622C allows me to use the Live View function and fire my flashes normally. With the YN 622c, I don’t have to turn off the Live View function to fire my flashes. And, with the YN 622c installed, the canon Exposure Simulation function is disabled, allowing me to see the scene on my LCD and focus my manual lens with exposure settings that make the ambient dark.

    Magic Lantern has a feature that accesses the canon 5x zoom window with a half press of the shutter button. This Magic Lantern feature makes focusing manual lenses very easy and accurate. Wonderful!

    Magic Lantern has workarounds for disabling the Exposure Simulation function and firing external flashes while using Live View without the YN 622c installed. But, I did not like it as much as I like the way the camera works simply with the YN 622c installed. Also, I could not find a mechanism with the Magic Lantern system to allow 2nd curtain sync. The 2nd curtain sync function can be accessed with the YN 622c mounted on the camera.

    I am very pleased. The YN 622c works great, and solved a lot of frustrating problems for me.

    Thank you very, very much for your help.


    • Author
      Flash Havoc 7 years ago

      Hi Gary,

      Fantastic, thanks for the update, I’m glad the worked out well for you!

      For others reading just to summarize, using just one YN-622C on the camera, and then regular manual radio triggers (Tx mounted on top of YN-622C on camera) can allow –

      – Live View Mode &
      – Second Curtain Sync

      Which are not normally available with regular manual triggers. Thanks.

  34. Jeonghun Lee 7 years ago

    This is really good trigger at that low price which support ETTL and HSS, with my experience they should fix some defect, the hotshoe is not straight so if you mount on a camera It’s not straight that’s why assist beam isn’t accurate and if you mount speedlite on the trigger the speedlite is not properly sit on that, and other problem is Power swtich, it is easy to turn on automatically while it’s in your bag because the switch is not so tight, but when you try to turn off it’s tighter, I often experience i have drained batteries in it because of this issue.

  35. James 7 years ago

    I purchased a YN-560 which is manual.
    I just ordered a YN-568 which has TTL, HSS and lots of neat things I don’t understand.

    If I buy the YN-622, I won’t have the ability to control much regarding the 560 correct? Would I put that on top of the camera at a relatively low fill power while using the 658 off camera as TTL via these transceivers? Will that work? Any other suggestions on how I can make use of my old 560? (I’m feeling a bit silly for having purchased a manual speedlight) Will the 560 have any use on top of the camera w HSS or otherwise if I were to use the 568 off camera?

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 7 years ago

      Hi James,

      That’s correct, you can only fire the YN-560 off camera, there is no remote control possible. If you find yourself doing more off camera flash work you may find you prefer manual anyway, so the YN-560 may still be very handy yet.

      Yes you could use the manual flash on camera as a fill light. People often work the opposite way around though too, using the TTL flash on camera, and the manual flash off camera. This is because you can keep the off camera light a set distance from the subject (using an assistant or light stand etc) and then you are free to move around with the camera and not worry about the fill exposure changing as the TTL will take care of that automatically.

      If you go with YN-622 triggers though you would have the most options to experiment using TTL and HSS etc off camera as well (with the YN-568EX) to see what suits you best.

      You won’t be able to include the YN-560 in any HSS configuration, unless you connect it to the PC sync port of a YN-622 receiver and use SuperSync to achieve the higher sysnc speeds. This requires full power all the time on the speedlite though so its generally not practical to use with speedlites. Thanks.

  36. Meddin Studios 7 years ago

    Had our first YN622C trigger kick the bucket. Looking for some insight…

    The flash fires when attached but we can’t change any menu items on the flash itself and as we change camera menu settings it doesn’t change either. Basically the flash “freezes” on whatever settings it was on immediately when the trigger is attached. The flash also sometimes pops a brief random flash after the camera snaps.

    Tried different 622Cs, tried the bad one on different flashes, tried different group/mode/power settings. Nothing. The instant this trigger is attached it freezes the flash. We can’t even hit the test button on the flash itself to make it pop. It’ll ONLY trigger via camera shutter and who knows at what power (I guess whatever is currently set prior to attaching the bad 622C).

    Also tried doing the manual reset (holding CH and GP buttons at same time) but still made no difference. Any advice?

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 7 years ago

      Hi There,

      That doesn’t sound good. You could still try cleaning the foot TTL contacts with some Isopropyl alcohol, and make sure you have fresh alkaline batteries. But it does sound like its a little beyond that, and probably will need to go back for exchange. Thanks.

  37. Marco A de Avila 7 years ago


    The Flash Metz 52AF-1 can be fully controlled using my camera menu and YN-622 on Canon 70D?
    And it also can choose the 568ex and let yn568ex II out.

    Thank you, Marco.

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 7 years ago

      Hi Marco,

      Unfortunately I do not know what the compatibility of the Metz 52 AF-1 and YN-622C is like at this stage, as there have not been any reports of this combination being used as yet. Hopefully some other users may be able to comment. Thanks.

  38. Richard 7 years ago

    Just have 1 question….planning to buy a Quantuum R+300 DualPower studioflash for use “on location” . Will the Youngnou 622c work with Canon Eos 5DM2 on high speed sync?

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 7 years ago

      Hi Richard,

      The Quantuum looks to be an IGBT flash, so it will only work in SuperSync on full power at best. The YN-622C currently do not have any Pre-Sync timing adjustment. So an IGBT flash, with a full frame camera, and a trigger with no timing adjustment is going to be difficult to get good results.

      You may want to look at the Phottix Odin as they have a Pre-Sync timing adjustment now, but also this description should help explian what will work and why – Phottix Odin ODS.

      Also have you looked at the Cheetah Light or Godox AD-360. That is 300Ws, but also has a High Speed Sync mode, so you don’t have to use full power all time. And is will sync properly with the 5D II at higher shutter speeds. Its also much smaller and lighter on location than that Quanutumm and battery. Thanks.

      • Richard 7 years ago

        as I suspected……thanks for your fast answer/reply, Flash Havoc 🙂

  39. Tanvir 7 years ago

    Hello FlashHavoc!
    I’d like to start with thanking you for this brilliant post. in fact this post alone made me buy the YN622C at the first place. Now there is one more issue that i’d like to discuss with you.

    I bought my pair from Bangkok at April 2013. it worked great. i used it in many situations and it made my life easy. however a few days back one of my triggers stopped working. the main problem is when i mount my flash [YN 560 II] on top of the trigger, it wont fire. my camera [Canon 6D] is showing all the E-TTL menu right (though my flash is not ETTL). when i mounted the same flash on the other trigger, it worked fine. i tried to reset the product so many times but came out with the same result. And yesterday was the worst! when i found my good trigger doing the same thing. not firing through the hot shoe. i tried the PC connector of both of them, they were ok. they have no problem transmitting or receiving signal either. so i’m feeling totally confused what might be wrong?

    One particular situation that i must mention here, is for an unavoidable reason, i had to mount my trigger on a Nikon camera hot shoe [ i know i shouldn’t have, but it was a matter of national security]. the lights fired with no problem though. but what’s bugging me is if that is the reason for such malfunction? can iTTL mount fry my ETTL trigger? and if that is the case, how can i reset or make my triggers work good again?

    Please let me know if you have any information/ or recommendation about that.


    • Author
      Flash Havoc 7 years ago

      Hi Tanvir,

      Thanks, unfortunately I’m not sure what the issue would be there.

      There is no problem using the YN-622C on a Nikon camera, so that should not be any issue. When using the YN-622C on non Canon cameras you need to set the transmitter to mixed mode though for them to function correctly. (No TTL or remote control available there).

      Have you been able to try any other flash on top of the YN-622C pass through?

      I’m wondering if this may not still be an issue with your YN-560 II foot. One problem that has come up a number of times recently is the YN-560 III not firing by the foot. The issue is the foot base plate contact is not making contact with the hotshoe rails properly. Twisting the flash around in the hotshoe often gets it firing again. So it may be worth cleaning the contacts (flash foot and 622 hotshoes) and trying to make sure the flash is making good contact, seated well in the hotshoe, and tightened down well with the locking ring. Thanks.

  40. Patrick 7 years ago

    I am new to this. Just to confirm this triggers require line of sight. Range? Thanks

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 7 years ago

      Hi Patrick,

      No the YN-622C are radio based transmission so they do not require line of sight. They can even work through walls etc.

      Range is generally stated as around 60 meters. But that does vary depending on the conditions. They will reach 100 meters or even further line of sight, but you can easily end up down to around 30 meters if placing the flash behind some obstruction etc.

      Range is not generally an issue for most use, but most manual triggers even like the basic RF-602 can virtually double the range if there are obstructions etc. Thanks.

  41. Alberto 7 years ago

    Hi guys I have a set of 622c that I use with my EX580II and YN-565 EX I wanted to see if the I could use a YN-560-III and be able to change the settings on the flash via camera menu…. Reason is that the 560 is about $70 compared to the 565 which costs $125.

    The new flash would used mostly for rim lighting….

    would ttl work with this flash.

    Thanks in advance, awesome source of information you have here!

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 7 years ago

      Hi Alberto,

      There’s definitely no TTL with the YN-560 III. Or control through the camera menu.

      There will be a new transmitter coming which will allow remote power control with the YN-560 III, so it may be possible to stack that on top of the current YN-622C transmitter.

      But if its just for one extra flash the YN-565EX would likely still be cheaper.


  42. Matthew 7 years ago

    Hi there,

    I’m having an issue that I can’t seem to resolve. I want the ability for me and my second shooter to fire 2 remote flashes on stands at a wedding reception while also firing the speedlight on top of (the firing) camera for fill, but the issue is, when ever one of us pops off a shot, ALL of the flashes fire, including the one on the other camera! So, when I take a shot, my assistant’s on-camera speedlight fires as well as mine and the ones on the stands, and vice-versa. There’s no way to select between “transmitter” and “receiver”, and I’ve tried doing different things with channels, etc., but I can’t figure it out.

    Any potential solution?


    • Author
      Flash Havoc 7 years ago

      Hi Matthew,

      This is a common problem, I’ve added a section to the review here – http://flashhavoc.com/yn622c_review/#Two_Shooters

      A work around has been found for this by simply setting the on camera YN-622C to Group C, and the off camera YN-622C to Group B.

      The cameras are then both set to fire Group A:B (in ETTL or Manual) via the cameras menu .

      So when one camera takes a shot, the on top flash is treated as group A (as an on top flash always is), and the remote flash is Group B.

      The other cameras on top flash retains its Group C setting though, and because Group C is not enabled in the A:B firing Group set on the camera, that will not fire the other cameras Group C flash.

      Of course the best method is to have a separate slave flash for each shooter (mounted on a dual flash Mulit Boom etc), and set both cameras YN-622C’s to a different Channel.


      • Matthew 7 years ago

        Thank you, thank you, thank you! I thought of this idea, more or less, but I didn’t have any clue how all that group A, B, C stuff worked. Making changes in every possible combination on the Yongnuo units alone didn’t help.

        You’re a lifesaver!

  43. George 7 years ago

    I have the lights Cheetah 360, canon 580 flash and Yongnuo YN-622C.
    My question is if I can combine and make them work / shoot the three lights with my canon Mak II. If someone would explain how synchronization.

  44. salsaguy 7 years ago

    any idea why this web page takes so long to redraw/refocus???

    on my tablet (Kindle Fire HD) when i scroll the page up or down it takes a few seconds to refocus the text. they go out of focus when i scroll about 1/2 or 1 page worth and then after a few seconds the text comes back into focus. very annoying and slows down my reading.
    is this entire site formatted as a picture? instead of html or is it just because there is too much info on it,?

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 7 years ago

      Hi, Sorry I don’t know about that one. Its wordpress and regular HTML. There may just be too much on the page now as you mention. It appears to work ok here on the iphone though. Thanks.

  45. Mike 7 years ago

    Hey Salsaguy, I may be wrong, but I believe the web page display “blips” you’re describing are likely to be an ISP slowdown, network problem or Kindle memory issues.

  46. Ivan 7 years ago

    Will it go to sleep (power-save) after a period of time or can be kept up forever? Same for slave flashes: if they are mounted in this device, can I keep them up forever? I need this for overnight use with 580EXII which go to sleep after 1 hour maximum when in the slave mode. Thanks.

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 7 years ago

      Hi Ivan,

      Sorry I haven’t tried this. I think the triggers should be ok as they are active any time you half press the camera shutter. The flash is not set to slave mode on the YN-622C receiver either, so that may help you there with the 580EX II as well. Thanks.

  47. Ivan 7 years ago

    Thanks, but this unfortunately does not answer the question. Please, note: I did not ask about waking up, but about keeping awake. For example, when I leave it overnight with a photo-trap – no point to wake it up and miss a shot of a flying bat, it just must be awake. The only choice for 580EXII in slave mode is to sleep after 10 min or 60 min (Fn 11), after which it can be waken up via signals from the master during 1 hour or 8 hours (Fn 10). Hence, the question: will an YN-622c installed on camera as a master constantly pop the slave 580EXII during those 8 hours to keep it awake, or it will go to sleep itself after a few minutes? Any option to cancel the power-off feature (as it is done in the Canon ST-E3-RT + 600EX-RT)?

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 7 years ago

      Hi Ivan,

      Sorry, I was trying to answer this in a hurry. I pretty much gathered what you would be trying to do, but I don’t have any experience with a camera trigger like that.

      From what I can tell I don’t think the YN-622C goes into any more of a sleep mode than its constant stand by state. Its usually the camera wake up, or half shutter press that gets them communicating. But as far as I can see as long is the camera is active the YN-622C should be ready to shoot.

      Does the trigger trap keep the camera awake then?

      • Ivan 7 years ago

        Thanks, yes, the trigger keeps the camera on all the time.

  48. Ivan 7 years ago

    Sorry, would you be so kind as to clarify: a remote flash on YN-622c receiver will not be a slave but a master? If so, that would work as in the master mode the power-off function on 580EXII can be suppressed.

    • Author
      Flash Havoc 7 years ago

      Hi Ivan,

      Sorry no, you don’t use master or slave mode. Just set the flash to regular ETTL or manual, and it will revert to the settings in the cameras flash control menu. Master or slave mode are not required and can not be used. Thanks.

      • Ivan 7 years ago

        Thanks, but if the YN-622c on camera is considered a master, does not this mean that remote flashes are slaves? When work with Canon transmitters (or built-in flash of the 7D), the external flashes (at least 580EXII) respond to the signals if only they are set to the slave mode.

        • Author
          Flash Havoc 7 years ago

          Hi Ivan,

          Not when using the YN-622C or most other TTL triggers. You don’t use the optic wireless master or slave mode at all. The communication is now through the flash foot and TTL contacts, so the optic wireless master and slave is not used. (The camera actually thinks the YN-622C on camera is a flash unit, the 622 then manipulates any flash mounted on top and remote flashes).

          I’ve had the the YN-622C running for quite few hours now, and they are in the same ready state. So if your camera is kept awake I don’t see why they wouldn’t fire instantly. Thanks.

          • Ivan 7 years ago

            Thank you very much!

  49. Andy 7 years ago


    Does anyone know if these triggers are compatible with the new canon 70d? I don’t fancy ordering a set only to have to return them.

    Great thread and many thanks.


    • Author
      Flash Havoc 7 years ago

      Hi Andy,

      I haven’t specifically heard anyone confirm this as yet, but then I think we would have heard much quicker if there were any issues found.

      Sorry I can’t help much more than that at the moment, but I’d say you should be pretty safe. Thanks.

      • Andy 7 years ago

        Thanks for your prompt reply. I agree with you so I will give them a go and post back on here for other 70d users.


        • Author
          Flash Havoc 7 years ago

          Ok great, thanks Andy.

  50. Imanol 6 years ago


    Excellent site and reviews… I read you often… Thanks…

    Quick questions:
    Have you heard if is possible to use the Canon 600EX-RT Speedlite with the YongNuo YN-622C triggers… Either as a slave or even better as a master?¿?¿

    I have tried and can´t get them to work…

    However i have the YongNuo YN-622C and the YongNuo YN568EX flashes and they work great…



    • Author
      Flash Havoc 6 years ago

      Hi Imanol,

      Thanks for that, yes you should be able to use the Canon 600EX-RT with the YN-622C triggers. But you need to use a YN-622C unit acting as a receiver on the flash foot, just like you do with the YN-568EX. The YN-622C are not directly compatible with Canons own RT radio system.

      You can’t use the 600EX-RT as a master (control is still through the cameras flash control menu) but you can mount the 600EX-RT on top of the YN-622C on camera, so you still have an on-camera TTL flash available if needed.

      YongNuo have there own YN-ST-E3 and YN-600EX-RT coming though, which are directly compatible with the Canon RT system. There is no word yet if there will be separate receivers available (for your YN-568EX etc). Thanks.

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